Engine stalls while driving?

Yes, I replaced the crankshaft sensor.

Thanks.

We are coming down closer and closer to the ECM.

I would suggest removing it and have someone test it for you to confirm it is good or it is faulty. Make sure you tell whoever gets it to check it when it heats up.

Roy

I already replaced it with a new one that was programmed to my VIN number.

Bought it from Advance Auto parts..had to give them my old one as a core. Costed me over $160.00.

Okay, there is no programming for OBD1. It is a plug and play.

None of this makes any sense at all. Other possibilities are wiring harness related. Let me see if I can get a diagram of the system but the testing will be tough.

Do you have a load pro leads for your voltmeter?

Roy

This is not a obd1. if you look at my rpm video closely, you will see that I'm using a obd2 meter.

All I have is a little multi-meter with the red and black test leads.

In order to do the proper testing, you need something that can detect a short or open circuit.

Go to Amazon and type in load pro by Dan Sullivan. The leads should be about $35.00. You can use them on your meter. Then we can do some load testing of the wiring.

Roy

Will see what I can do. will hit you back up when I get something.

Sounds like a plan.

Roy

Don't see anything for $35.00 more like $70.00 or more.

Found this one for $48.00. That is still too much. Check back every day. I just bought a set for myself as mine wore out after 10 years.

I checked eBay but they has nothing and I am not a fan of them anyway.

Roy

https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Specialties-180-Test-Lead/dp/B004IKPUL2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1TISLULMBSZMJ&dchild=1&keywords=loadpro+tester&qid=1588854710&sprefix=loadpro%2Caps%2C1983&sr=8-1

Okay Roy, will see what I can acquire. will also check with my electrician buddy to see if he has.

Good deal.

Keep me updated.

Roy

Computer Safe Automotive Logic Probe.
https://www.harborfreight.com/Computer-Safe-Automotive-Logic-Probe-63597.html

Will this possibly work?

No, that is a test light that just tests for powers and ground.

It cannot load test a circuit at all.

Roy

Okay Roy, borrowing the lead wires tonight that I need for load test..need detailed instructions, with pictures if possible, of what I need to do. thanks

I can send you to YouTube for the demonstration for using it. I use it when I teach my basic and advanced electric classes for testing circuits.

Go to YouTube and type in load pro by Dan Sullivan.

I attached the link for you to view.

Roy

Hey Roy, found out Advance Auto gave me the wrong ECM. swapped it out with the one that Cardone says goes with my VIN number and I also got a better brand MAF sensor and put on it.. it will start up good and runs for a while but it lopes and acts like it wants to shut off still.. took it down the road about a mile or so hit 80 mph easily, but still lopes when I parked it. so, now where does that leave me?

Okay, the idle air control is a common failure for the rough idle.

I would replace it. I attached a picture of the location for you.

Roy

Already replaced it with a new one and backtracked and retried the old one. the old one wont run at all.

With the wires detached the engine should run at 500 rpm.

Roy

Would be nice if it was built with a tachometer.

Got it.

It should idle with the IAC disconnected. It will be a low idle but still idle on its own.

Then when you plug the IAC back in, the idle should come up.

Roy

Unplugged the IAC and it shuts off.

Okay, clean the throttle body real well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Then adjust the base idle so it will idle on its own. There should be a base adjustment screw on the throttle body.

Roy

1. Disconnect idle speed control-air bypass solenoid.
2. With transmission in Neutral or Park, run engine at 2500 rpm/30 seconds.
3. Place automatic transmission in Park, manual transmission in Neutral.
4. Check/adjust idle rpm:
Turn the throttle plate stop screw to 725 rpm
5. Shut engine off and repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4.
6. Shut engine off and disconnect battery for a minimum of 5 minutes.
7. Engine off reconnect idle speed control-air bypass solenoid, verify the throttle is not stuck in the bore and linkage not preventing throttle from closing.
8. Start engine and stabilize for 2 minutes then goose engine and let it return to idle, lightly depress and release the accelerator. Let engine idle, if problem exists, refer to computer engine controls/diagnostic routines for other possible causes.

Tried this on both the old one and the new one..and both times it shuts off.

You need to adjust the base idle as I posted.

Roy

Need something stronger than throttle cleaner. the stuff inside is cooked on. red can is what I've been using.

That stuff does not do squat.

Go to the parts store and get a can of 2+2 carburetor cleaner and a small brush.

That stuff works great.

Roy

Was originally thinking,remove sensor and soak in gas and use toothbrush..

Carburetor cleaner would better but give it a try. Carburetor cleaner is more aggressive and melts away all that carbon.


Roy

Tried what you wanted me to. idles too erratic; goes from 1,600 down to 700 and back up and down. wont even out.

Check for any vacuum leaks. Check the PCV valve. Block it off with your finger and see if it idles steady.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high

Roy

Don't see a PCV valve on a v6 4.0. have a vacuum line going to air boot, but no valve on it.

Yes, it has one.

I posted the test for it below.

Roy

Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.

Disconnect hose from remote air cleaner or air outlet tube (tube connecting mass air meter and throttle body).

Place a stiff piece of paper over the hose end. Wait one minute.

Does vacuum hold the paper in place?

Yes -- System is okay. Reconnect hose. Go to diagnostic routines for other possible causes of vehicle symptoms. See Power-train Management/Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Routines.

No -- System is plugged or evaporative emission valve is leaking (if equipped). Go to PCV3. See: Positive Crankcase Ventilation > Pinpoint Tests > PCV 3 - Evaporative Emission System Check.

Tried this..

Good. Did you replace the hose that was leaking vacuum?

Replace the PCV valve.

I could not see anything on the scan tool. The camera cut off anything that showed.

Roy

Ordered a PCV valve. pick it up after work, but even with it off and vacuum plugged, the idle is erratic, moving up and down from 700's to nearly 1,000.

Can you do another video and this time let me see the readings on the scan tool?

I need to see long term trim readings.

Roy