High beams issue!

12 volts on RD/blk #3 and RD/YEL on # 13 is just what we want. That tells the integration relay is good.

Now we get to plan "B". We need to run 2 "permanent" jumpers.
1- From the RD/BLK wire connected to term #3 on the integ relay to the RD/BLK wire attached to term 14 on the HL switch. Keeping in mind, this new jumper is in ADDITION TO, NOT IN PLACE OF, the wires that are already there. We don't want to CUT or TERMINATE any wires, just splice into them.

2-On terms #1 and #3 in the HL relay block. You already have these jumpered. We need to splice in a pernanent jumper in place of the one you have now. Again, we don't want to cut any wires. The permanent jumper is in addition to the existing. Once this is done, everything should work like it's supposed to.
Any questions or problems, I'll be watching the post.

Jump #2 will work OK but Jumping from red/black on the integration relay to the red/black on the H/L switch doesn't work. But when I jump to red/yellow on the H/L relay the lights work.

Ok, that means your integration relay is bad. You need to replace it. Dave said this may be the case and he's right. Once you replace the IR. try the lights with the jumper OFF the rRD/Yel wire. If the lights still don't work, hook the wire up on the RD/BLK by Int relay term #3.

Mike ...

To check the INT relay is BAD .. JUMP a wire from RED/YELLOW terminal #13 @ H/L switch to RED/YELLOW terminal # 4 @ INT relay ... basically you are checking if the existing red/yellow on the car has a break in it ???

Dave H

If the light's work with #13 @switch jumped to #4 on the INT relay then the INT relay is good after all and the problem is the RED/YELLOW wire .. if the light's don't work .. the INT relay is bad !!!

Thanks guys, I'm gonna wait till the morning when I have more daylight. I'll give it a go and see what happens. let you know tomorrow.

dave: You said to check the integration relay, jump the red/yellow #13 on switch to #4 red/yellow on integration relay plug . Are you sure you don't mean the #3 red/black wire on the integration relay? Because when I jump the red/yellow on the relay, I get nothing , but when I jump the red/black , the lights work fine.

I want you to check if the INT relay is working .. so leave the red/black connected to INT relay and connected to the H/L relay ... jumper the red/yellow on INT relay to the red/yellow on the H/L switch ... basically you are replacing the red/yellow wire with your own wire ...leave the red/black wire from INT going to #3 on H/L relay ... If the light's work with the RED/YELOW replaced by your own color wire and going through the INT relay then the INT relay is GOOD ..and the red/yellow wire is BAD ... if the light's do not work with your wire from switch to INT relay then the RELAY is BAD .. Let me know

Mike, I can answer Dave's question for you if it's ok. Dave and I had discussed this on another post and I'm sure he won't mind.
Dave's thought, which is valid, was maybe the open was between HL switch term #13 and integ relay term #4. This is a circuit you and I hadn't tested and it's possible there may had been a problem here, so it was worth testing. Apparently now, after your test, the circuit between HLS 13 and Int. R 4 is good.
Have you completed the 2 jumpers yet? Let me know.

Thank's James .. yes, that is exactly what i was asking .. Mike .. if you have jumped red/yellow #13 on switch to red/yellow #4 on INT relay and the light's do not work .. then INT relay is bad ... complete the jumpers as James has requested and let us know !!

Hey guys: Sorry for not getting back to you sooner , had to fix my great grandsons bed (most important things ist) . Yes James I got the jumpers in( I installed a 15 amp in line fuse in the line from #13 to #3 just in case there's a short somewhere). Now the lights work , except for the parking lights. The parking lights and the inside dome light don't work , maybe they are tied into the integration relay. Well I guess I'll go hunt up a relay and see if that solves the problem. I'll let you guys know the results when I get one installed. Thanks a lot for putting up with me , talk to you later. Mike

Hey Mike. The side and tail light's DO also go through the INT relay ..green wire terminal #2 on H/L switch to terminal #1 on INT relay then terminal '#2 on INT relay green/red wire going to Tail Light relay behind the dash left side of steering wheel .. these light's are only HOT with key ON ... so find a HOT that only comes ON with ignition switch and jumper it to terminal #2 on H/L switch if you cannot find a INT relay ... hope this helps P.S. I have just checked and the interior lights also go through the INT relay .. replace the relay .. and JOB DONE .... Happy Motoring

Dave's, thankfully, one up on me on the Int. relay and the jumper. Just, before you plug in the new relay be sure to remove the jumper. We don't need anymore problems.

Yes, your exterior lights should be controlled by the Int. relay. The interior lights, I'm not sure about being, I can't find a breakdown of the Int. relay itself.
Let us know.

Hi guys: Just thought I'd let you know. The integrater relay didn't fix problem.

Hey Mike. Every problem you are having on the vehicle goes through the INT relay !! .. you have replaced the relay .. what is happening now ?

well I'm having problems with my alarm system now . Everything else is working with the jumpers in place so I'm ok there but when I tried to start the car up today it wouldn't start it just turned over and over. So I diconected my battery and rearmed the alarm and it started and ran for a few minutes and then shut down as if I turned the key off. So I turned the alarm switch off and after awile it started again. And it's been that way all day starting and stopping. I wonder if the alarm system could be tied into the light problem somehow? It's a factory alarn system.

Is the alarm system factory or aftermarket?
Do you have "remote start" on the car?
When the car dies, are you losing spark when you try to restart, and it won't?

Yes factory , No , Yes

Hey Mike. Are you sure the vehicle is fitted with an immobolizer .. i'm not showing one fitted to this year on any model of camry .. or for the year after .. they started fitting the immobolizer in 1997 ?? does your vehicle have a keyfob ??

I'm pretty sure it does, It'll set the horn blowing and the key won't do anything when you insert in the ign. It did have a key fob but it got broken and was never replaced. It had a panic button on it along with lock and unlock buttons

Mike. Every system you are having a problem with goes through the connecter (junction block) under the steering column .. remember the one (page 7 of these post's) you you had a photo for me .. and said some if the plastic was melted .. you need to check this again for me ..are your side and tail light's working now ??

Dave H

Tailights have always worked . The side or parking lights and dome light are also working now.

Hey Mike. sorry park/side ... are they working because you jumped them .. or because you replaced the INT relay ?? On my wiring diagram ..I have a WHITE wire and a BLACK/WHITE wire going from ignition switch to the connector I mentioned in my last post .. is this the same on the vehicle ?? if different what colors do you have and how many wires from IGN switch to junction block let me know

I was hoping you wouldn't ask because although I checked all the other bulbs I didn't check the parking light bulbs. So guess what , they were both bad so I replaced them and they both worked. As to the ign. wires ,from what I can see there are 6 wires coming out of the ign. black/yellow, black/red , black/ white , blue , tan , & tan/red. They all seem to go to the back of the fuse box under the dash. I can't tell whether they come back to the steering column or not . The wires on the steering column are about half the size of the ones from the ign. but there are 2 smaller white/black on the connecter. Do you want to know all the color wires coming into the conecter.

OK .. it seems we have discrepency in the wire colors again ..while I am checking the wiring diagrams .. could you go out and start the car .. and waggle/jiggle/play around with by hand the connector (the one in the photo) see if this makes the car stop ?

Also do the wires from the ignition go through this connector (on photo) before going to the fusebox ??

On the ignition switch what color are the wires on # 4 pin and # 7 pin

Thanks, let me know
Dave H

I started car and wiggled ,jiggled, and even jostled and couldn't make it cut off.I really can't see what pins are attached to what wires , there's like a rubber cover over them.

Mike. Sorry i should have included this for you

Also do these wire go through the connector you have just wiggled ... ?? Also .. I am not showing anywhere a factory fit alarm/immobolizer ..for the camry models in this year or year before and after .. I think it may be an aftermarket system .. it should be showing on my diagrams !! ... can you see under the hood the alarm unit/siren ?? I realise it is getting late .. so if you want to carry this on tommorrow ... that's fine ... let me know

There's nothing under the hood it's all up under the dash. And it doesn't have a siren it uses the horn. I wish I could just take the alarm off. Why do they change color of the wires from one side of the connecters to the other side?I know this sounds crazy but # 7 is a blank hole (no wire) and #4 has a green wire. I know what your thinking where did that green wire come from , it came down beside the ign. switch and joined the wire bundle. And yes tomorrow sounds good.

OK Mike. Speak tommorrow .. I'm sure james will have some input as well ... he is having computer problems .. hopefully they will be sorted out tommorrow .. One point for tonight .. the plug connector diagram in my last post was for the actual ignition switch .. is this the one that has no wire in #7 and a green in #4 .. let me know tommorrow Thanks

Good Morning Mike. OK. First thing we need to know is ... are ALL the prior faults now working correctly (ie.) Headlight's working correctly ?? Tail light's working correctly ?? Side light's working correctly ?? The INT relay was replaced but you still needed to have the jumpers that james asked you to install ... the INT relay was not the fault the wiring on #3 H/L relay to #13 H/L switch was the fault and now it is jumped everything is working correctly ...?? Are we (me and James)correct in thinking this way ?? Let us know.

Yes everythings working except it bugs me not knowing what the problem was. As to my alarm system, I know it's factory because there is a factory installed red light to the left of the steering wheel in the dash.

Mike. Can I start out by saying, It bugs me and James as well .. but it must be a break in a wire somewhere .. James and I discussed this and we do not like altering OEM fittings .. but I think in this case we had no other option !! The Factory Fit Alarm .. would actually show on our wiring diagrams .. so Either it was only an optional addition, which usually shows on our wiring diagrams also .. or it is an aftermarket fit ? they could still fit an alarm warning light !! now that said the only way to really check if it is factory fit is to contact a dealer and ask them to check if they fitted alarms to models in that year ?? Firstly .. have you tried the car this morning and is it acting the same .. or is it running correctly and is the battery fully charged ? OK. I need to know DO the wires FROM this plug/connector on the IGN SWITCH

Go through this connector/junction block ?

Or do they go straight to the fuse box ? Let me know ? Dave H

I went out and started the car this morning and it started right up then after about 10 secs. it shut off I tried to start it again and it took about 3or 4 tries then it started again and ran for about 30 secs. I tried starting it again and again it took about 3 or 4 tries and I uped the rpm to about 2000 and it ran a liittle under a min. then shut off . I tried restarting and after 3 or 4 tries it again started and ran for a couple of mins. and tried to die but i pumpedn the accelerater and kept it running. Now that the temp is normal it runs continous and I can shut it off and start it back up in 1 try. All the time I was doing this the alarm red light was on and staring me in the face. To answer your Question the wires from the ign plug do not run go thru the Connecter J/B on the steering column. They go to the fuse box on the left side of dash.

I called the toyota parts place this morning and gave them the vin# and he told me that it was not a factory alarm.

I was half way through typing a reply saying I personally did not think it was factory fit and was there any reference to it in your haynes manual ?? so that puts that to rest ?

The problems you are experiencing could be down to cold start issues ? and not the alarm/immobolizer ? your thought's

It seems like something wants to shut down the engine when it's cold kinda like a sensor or something. I had a certified mech. put a code reader on about a month ago and he replaced the coolant temp. sensor . Thats the only thing that showed up on his reader. And I also put a new computer . I keep thinking it's in the alarm because of the way it shuts down so suddenly and won't restart right away.

What I think I'm going to do is have the toyota place order me a new remote for the alarm .

I'll talk to you guys later I've got to go take my 2 great grandsons to Chuck E. Cheese for the next 3 hrs or so.

Ok If you have an OHMS meter you could check the IAT sensor is working correctly .. Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Intake air temperature sensor is mounted in either airflow meter or air filter housing. Intake air temperature sensor measures incoming intake air temperature and delivers an input signal to THA terminal of Engine Control Module (ECM) for controlling fuel injection system, fuel pressure control (if equipped) and heated oxygen sensor systems (if equipped). Idle Speed Control System Engine Control Module (ECM) is programmed with engine idle speed values. Idle air control system provides a stable idle speed when engine is cold and idle speed decreases due to electrical load. The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses various input signals to maintain proper idle speed by controlling Idle Air Control (IAC) valve located on air intake system. INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect electrical connector from intake air temperature sensor. Intake air temperature sensor is located in air intake, near air filter. NOTE:Intake air temperature sensor may be also identified using appropriate illustration in the THEORY/OPERATION - 2.2L article. Remove intake air temperature sensor. Place threaded end of intake air temperature sensor and thermometer in container of water. Attach ohmmeter between intake air temperature sensor electrical terminals. Heat water and note that resistance is within specification in relation to temperature. See Fig. 3. Replace intake air temperature sensor if defective.

let me know !

I took the IAT sensor off and performed the test and the sensor read 19 olms @ 212 degrees . I think that it's ok.

Mike, just checking to see where we're at.