Mar 19, 2009 at 6:40 AM
High beams issue!
1995 TOYOTA CAMRY
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The last thing I did was check the IAT sensor and it was fine.I still think my problem is in the alarm system because the red light for the alarm stays on continously now .
Hey Mike.
What was the actual reading on the OHMS meter ??
let me know

Mar 19, 2009 at 8:17 AM
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I had somthing different happen this morning when I went out to start the car. I tried to start the car and it started and then died so I tried again and this time I took the RPM up to 2000 and kept it there. After about 10 or 15 sec. it started to die so I pumped the accelerater and it came back up to 2000 again , then after about 30 sec. it tried to stall again and again I pumped the acelerater rapidly and again it came up to 2000 and after this 2nd time the temp. was coming up to normal and it continued to run for about 5 to 7 min. Then I shut it down and tried to restart it , and it restarted. So I'm perplexed about that because it seemed to indicate it wasn't getting enough fuel so the pumping kept it running. Could there be a connection between the fuel inj. system and the sudden shutting down?
Mar 19, 2009 at 8:21 AM
19 olms at 212 degrees
Mar 19, 2009 at 8:26 AM
Mike.
You should have a reading of 0.2 to 0.3 ohms @212 degrees .. if you have a reading of 19 @ 212 degrees .. the IAT is way off base or i'm reading your answer incorrectly ??
Let me know

Mar 19, 2009 at 9:00 AM
I'm sorry Dave that was .19
Mar 19, 2009 at 9:08 AM
you know anything about the IAC valve? I was reading a tech report article and it seemed to indicate that a lot of 95's and 96's camry's were having a problem. Have you seen any problems.
Mar 19, 2009 at 9:18 AM
I still think the IAT is faulty !! it should read between 0.2 and 0.3 @212 degrees ..yours is below 0.2 ? do you happen to remeber the OHMS and temperature when you first started the test ??...this signal controls air/fuel ratio on cold start up !!
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Intake air temperature sensor is mounted in either airflow meter or air filter housing. Intake air temperature sensor measures incoming intake air temperature and delivers an input signal to THA terminal of Engine Control Module (ECM) for controlling fuel injection system, fuel pressure control (if equipped) and heated oxygen sensor systems (if equipped).
There are no TSB's regarding the IAC valve .. but you can test it !!
To check IAC valve operation, remove IAC valve from throttle body. Connect battery voltage and ground to proper terminals and ensure valve opens and closes. See Fig. 23. Replace IAC valve if defective.


Mar 19, 2009 at 10:06 AM
The IAT startedout at about .95@ about 100 degrees. It dropped as the water got hotter. I was able to start the car without the IAT hooked up yesterday so that shouldn't keep the car from starting.
Mar 19, 2009 at 10:42 AM
I had done the test on the IAC and it checked out allright. Thanks for the diagram.
Mar 19, 2009 at 11:00 AM
I checked the voltage coming to the IAT from the ECM and my Haynes manual says it should read 5 volts and I can't get any reading on my meter.
Mar 19, 2009 at 11:26 AM
Hey Mike.
How was the car when you started without IAT hooked up !! was it cold/warm and did it start/run OK ?


Mar 19, 2009 at 11:42 AM
The car was cold when I started it without IAT hooked up. It started up ok but I didn't let it run but a few maybe 10 sec. I rechecked the voltage to the IAT(with the key ON this time ) and it read 3 volts.
Mar 19, 2009 at 12:38 PM
Mike, the IAT wonlt keep the car from starting. If it's not functioning correctly, it will make it "difficult" to start and won't control the cold idle fuel mixture like it's supposed to. It will search for a correct idle speed but can't find one, so the engine dies. I highly you do, as Dave suggested, and CHANGE the IAC.
Mar 19, 2009 at 6:07 PM
Did you mean IAT or IAC? If its bad, will it also show up the check engine light?
Mar 19, 2009 at 7:07 PM
IAT, sorry, I lost my head for a minuete. Sometimes they'll set a code, sometimes they won't. It can depend on how far out of range they are.
Mar 19, 2009 at 10:32 PM
I'll see about getting one today at the dealer.
Mar 20, 2009 at 8:00 AM
Hey Mike.
I had to go out yesterday ..Big thanks to James for the assistance ...You should be able to get the IAT from most autoparts stores .. it does not need to be a dealer !!
start the car up this morning with the IAT unplugged ..and see how it runs .. it should run OK at it's default values ..and this may set a fault code !!
let me know

Mar 20, 2009 at 8:15 AM
I tried to start the car yesterday afternoon and I couldn't get it started so much so that I had to recharge the battery. Then I go out this morning unplug the IAT and it starts right up. Runs for 10 secs. then shuts down. I restart it and take it up to 2000 RPM and after about 15 or 20 secs. it tries to shut down and then the RPM comes back up and it continues to run for a minute or so then I shut it off. Is that wierd or what? I just can't understand it. I was checking my voltage wrong on the IAT plug .But this morning I got a good reading and it read 4.98 volts coming from the ECM.
Mar 20, 2009 at 9:55 AM
Hey Mike.
My manual is telling me you should be getting 3.4 volts MAXIMUM @ cool engine condition .. of course this all depends on outside ambient air temp and what reading the IAT sensor is sending to the PCM .. regarding ambient air temp !!
Dave H
My manual is telling me you should be getting 3.4 volts MAXIMUM @ cool engine condition .. of course this all depends on outside ambient air temp and what reading the IAT sensor is sending to the PCM .. regarding ambient air temp !!
Dave H
Mar 20, 2009 at 10:10 AM
What manual are you using? I'm wondering if my Haynes manual is giving me the right info. I got 5 volts from chapter 6 page 15,it says approx. 5 volts. So if the voltage is too high what should I do?
Mar 20, 2009 at 10:21 AM
Mike.
We are using MITCHELL1 ..generally percieved to be the best on the market !! of course nothing is infallable .. and ours coud be wrong ..as we saw with the wiring diagrams earlier .. by the way while we are on the subject .. are your haynes wiring diagrams correct ?? ...
This manual is stating that if the voltage is wrong then check the IAT .. if this is found to be working correctly .. check wiring or replace PCM/ECM .. my option is, I would rather swap the IAT than replace the ECM/PCM
let me know
Dave H
We are using MITCHELL1 ..generally percieved to be the best on the market !! of course nothing is infallable .. and ours coud be wrong ..as we saw with the wiring diagrams earlier .. by the way while we are on the subject .. are your haynes wiring diagrams correct ?? ...
This manual is stating that if the voltage is wrong then check the IAT .. if this is found to be working correctly .. check wiring or replace PCM/ECM .. my option is, I would rather swap the IAT than replace the ECM/PCM
let me know
Dave H
Mar 20, 2009 at 10:42 AM
I've already replaced the ECM so I guess the IAT is next. The wiring diagrams in the haynes were similar to yours they didn't show the change in colors from one connecter to the other
Mar 20, 2009 at 10:47 AM
Hey Mike.
If you don't mind me asking .. when and why did you replace the ECM .. ?
let me know
Dave H
Good question, Dave. What WERE the symptoms you were trying to correct when you changed the ECM?
If you don't mind me asking .. when and why did you replace the ECM .. ?
let me know
Dave H
Good question, Dave. What WERE the symptoms you were trying to correct when you changed the ECM?
Mar 20, 2009 at 11:05 AM
I replaced it about 3 months ago . The reason was because I was showing a check engine light and when I took it into a shop to have it diagnosed he said he found the coolant temp sensor or the computer was bad we changed the sensor ist then the computer. and the light is still on. So I took it home and have been driving it with the light on.
Mar 20, 2009 at 12:33 PM
Mike, I wish you had told us that earlier. Before we start changing parts, we need to know what is causing the ECL to stay on. Can you get us the codes and descriptions ASAP.
Mar 20, 2009 at 1:02 PM
Hey Mike.
I remember you mentioning it now and I looked back through the post's ..it's a big jump from coolant temp sensor to bad ECM ? ... was it a NEW ECM or one from a wrecker's yard or reconditioned .. ?
So this fault has been happening for 3 month's and did not just start happening .. you said earlier that you alway's put it down to the alarm .. has it been the same fault all along ?? also are you going to change the IAT please and if possible have the codes read again...LOL ...
let me know

Mar 20, 2009 at 1:24 PM
When the mechanic checked the car out he checked for codes and what he told me was he only found one thing that might be wrong and that was the coolant temp. sensor. He said he couldn't get a good read from the ECM so he changed the CTS to see if that would fix it . But it didn't so he said the only other thing was the ECM because NOTHING else, no other code showed up. He put in a new one and still light stayed on and at the time was starting and running ok. What I said earlier about why I think its the alarm is because I wasn't having starting problems until I ran the battery down completely the other day, because I left the tail lights on. When I charged the battery up I began to have the alarm go off so I disabled it by pulling the connecter out of the alarm box. This worked and that's when the red light on the dash came on and stayed on. Since then I've been having these wierd starting problems. I've always found it to be true when you have a new problem come up it's usually because you did something for one problem and it screwed something else up. So that's why I feel the alarm may be the problem.
Mar 20, 2009 at 3:58 PM
Question? In the relay box in the front left side of eng. compartment, There is a starter relay. If that relay was working erratically would that cause the car to shut off suddenly? Because back around page 4 or 5 I went into the relay fuse box and it was after that I began having starting problems.
Mar 20, 2009 at 4:08 PM
Mike, even though the only code you originally had was for the CTS, there may be others stored now. If we try to continue from here without knowing what may be srored in ECM memory, all we're doing is guessing and we're going to wind up with another 20 pages of dialog. Please, do us all, including yourself, a scan the ECM memory. It may well be the alarm, but we need to rule out what the ECM has to say first. Your thoughts on this????
D.H.) I agree with James .. we need to know what fault's .. if any .. are stored on the ECM ... also did the CEL go out directly after replacing the ECM and then come back on ... or .. has it never gone out at all ???
D.H.) I agree with James .. we need to know what fault's .. if any .. are stored on the ECM ... also did the CEL go out directly after replacing the ECM and then come back on ... or .. has it never gone out at all ???
Mar 20, 2009 at 4:15 PM
Well I just eliminated the alarm. I disconnected the alarm module and the car started. Then it shut down after 10 secs. but that tells me it will start and run without alarm. Thanks guys .I'll clue you in as soon as I know something.
Mar 20, 2009 at 5:25 PM
The only thing between the battery and the starter is the start relay. The relay is closed by the key switch in start position. This circuit will have nothing to do with the engine running/stalling.
Mar 20, 2009 at 5:41 PM
Hey Mike.
Most good autopart's stores (autozone etc.) will check the codes for free .. ring and check before you go .. I think o'reilly's have just started chargeing ...let us know

Mar 20, 2009 at 5:43 PM
I have a question . Can a faulty MAP sensor cause the problem I'm having?
Mar 21, 2009 at 12:42 PM
Hey Mike.
A faulty MAP sensor will generally give driveability issues rather than cold start issues ..?
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
The MAP sensor monitors intake manifold intake air volume and delivers an input signal to Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM uses input signal for controlling fuel injection system and ignition timing (spark advance).
Did you get the ECM scanned yet ?.. this will hopefully tell us where the fault lies !!
Let me know

Mar 21, 2009 at 1:56 PM
No because I haven't been able to keep it running long enough. I did a self diagnostic on it where you jump Te1 & E1. The result was a 22, 24, & 31 code. I don't know whether to trust the results because the manual says the 31 code is for 6 cyls.
Mar 21, 2009 at 2:12 PM
Hey mike.
There is a code 31 on 2.2L 4 cyl ..it's MAP sensor circuit
code22 is ECT sensor which you already replaced !
code24 is IAT sensor which we have aked you to change ..!!
Let me know !

Mar 21, 2009 at 2:31 PM
would any of those codes shut the car down or keep it from starting? Are there any sensors in the entire system that will shut the car down or keep it from starting.Are there any circuit breakers in the ign. system?
Mar 21, 2009 at 2:43 PM
Mike.
Be very carefull working with the ECM even static electricity can damage the ECM .. the ECM will shut the car down if it senses something is wrong .. there are no cicuit breakers to cut engine .. unless you want to call the ECM a cicuit breaker .. ?
1))The ECT sensor would give driveability issues once vehicle is running !!
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
The ECT contains a built-in thermistor in which resistance varies according to engine coolant temperature. The ECT delivers an input signal to THW terminal of Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM uses input signal for controlling Pulsed Secondary Air Injection (PAIR) system (if equipped), fuel injection system, overdrive operation on electronically controlled transaxles/transmissions, ignition timing (spark advance), idle speed control system, fuel pressure control system (if equipped), heated oxygen sensor system (if equipped) and EGR system.
2))The IAT will give hard start and cutting out/stalling isssues to the vehcile on starting!!
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Intake air temperature sensor is mounted in either airflow meter or air filter housing. Intake air temperature sensor measures incoming intake air temperature and delivers an input signal to THA terminal of Engine Control Module (ECM) for controlling fuel injection system, fuel pressure control (if equipped) and heated oxygen sensor systems (if equipped).
3))The MAP sensor will give stalling/cutting out issues and driveability issues once running !! fuel lean/rich
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
The MAP sensor monitors intake manifold intake air volume and delivers an input signal to Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM uses input signal for controlling fuel injection system and ignition timing (spark advance).
ALL 3 use the same ground terminal from the ECM you could check this terminal
NOTE:If Codes 22, 24, 31 and 41 are output together, inspect ECM terminal E2 (ground) circuit. Repair as needed.
let me know

Mar 21, 2009 at 4:49 PM
thanks Dave : It seems like I need to change all 3 of those sensors. I'm gonna check that ground and then start replacing one by one.Cheapest 1st. talk to you later
Mar 21, 2009 at 5:24 PM