Engine cranks will not start?

between 4 and 2

Are you shore you are looking @ the right cam timing marks. It's hard to be leave the cam marks are all lined up but the rotor is off with out some one turning the distribututer ? Re check that you have lined up the crank and cam marks .

cam mark labled up is up and both slashes on sprocket are line up horizontally with cylinder head.distributor rotor is pointing straight down and should be pointing at 10 oclock where number 1 wire is.

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Honda Accord 6 cyl Automatic 148000 miles

My 2000 Honda Accord has not been driven much in the last three months as I am selling an extra car. Recently I have had an intermittent problme starting it. IApproximatelyu one out of every five to seven days it does not start when I try - it turns over but will not fire. I had it at my mechanics garage for a week (car was outside) and every morning it started so they couldn't diagnose the problem. Whne I drive it home it started right up at 9AM but at 1PM when I tried it would not start. Any help?

Hi mark266,

It is not easy to diagnose intermittent problems and we do not know if it is fuel or ignition sparks that is missing.

I would suggest checking the PGM-FI main relay.

My car on occasion will not start if the tank is below 1/8 filled. It turns over fine, but won't start. The battery is fine. Once it does start, it runs perfectly.Usually it does start simply by adding more fuel. The problem appears worse when parked on a hill.

I assumed my fuel pump was going bad.

Then the other day while on a very slight hill the car would not start with over 1/2 tank. It just would not turn over, like it was getting no fuel. I kept working at it and eventually it did start, and ran fine. I did notice the CD player was then acting up.

The next day the car started fine twice, but the second time I drove it the CD player was saying "ERR" and then the TCS light kicked on. The car seemed to be running fine, though. It is now parked awaiting my first attempts to figure out what is going on.

In tank fuel pumps are cooled and lubricated by the fuel in the tank. When you run a car low or out of gas, it pumps a lot of air through the pump which overheats it and causes some severe wear and many times, failure when they cool off.
You will need to use a fuel pressure gauge to verify this

Would this account for the TCS light turning on? I just tried to start the car and it started right up, and the TCS light was off and the CD player was fine as well.

No connection that I can think of.

thanks

I'm a female trying to diagnose my vehicle. I have a 2000 Honda Accord SE. When I got the vehicle last year (2/2007) it worked and ran well. In May of 2008 it sat until 12/20/08. Tried to start but it was dead. Jumped the car and it started fine. Turned off the car and tried to restart after jumping and nothing happened. Battery had died. Replaced the battery and the car started fine. Ran it for 10 minutes, shut if off and tried to restart. It cranked (you can hear the engine) but didn't turn over. Checked the fuel pump (but not the pressure). Fuel pump "looked" good (I was told). Changed the spark plugs and wires (just because they were the orginal parts). What can be the problem? It worked fine prior to sitting and started when we changed the battery initially and now it won't start. I'm at my wits end and I need my vehicle running. I've had 3 mechanics look at it and can't seem to find out what the problem is. I can't keep handing out money for a diagnosis with no resolve. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi ayelandgyrl,

What was the diagnosis from the mechanics who have attended to the vehicle?

Problem was due to ignition or fuel fault?
Was any attempt made to retrieve Diagnostic Error codes?

Just to be sure it is not the fault of the ignition switch, slowly turn the ignition key to ON and watch the dash lights, are they on steadily without flickering or going OFF?

It cranks but no ignition and temp needle stays down it doesnt move. I have to wait like 10 min for temp needle to turn on and lets me start car. Also rpms are fluctuating when in neutral or park and in drive too. In dec. 2011 the catalytic broke inside clogging inside. i drove car for two weeks like this. i had to replace catalytic ,egr valve,ect sensor,map sensor, got the ports cleaned also. Do i need a IAC VALVE, PCV VALVE, IDLE SPEED/THROTTLE ATUATOR, vacuum leak, OR SOMETHING ELSE. THERE ARE NO CODES TOO. THANKS

Start with a scan and let me know if you have any codes, not all codes will set a check light.

only abs codes were present.

possibly a faulty distributor module or coil, check that the plug gaps are not excessive, start here.

I have a 2000 Honda Accord V4 2 wheel drive with 177000 Miles on it. Atlease once a week my car will not start. when i turn the key it will try to start but won't completly start. After waiting for few minutes it will eventually start up like usualy. i had my battery, starter, and my alternator check to see if they are okay and they were okay. I had a complete tune up done where they checked the timing belt and all other stuff but the problem does not go away. You advise would be greatly appreciate it. Thank you.

At that time when the car fails to start, immediately check to see if the engines plugs are getting spark. It is a fork in the road. One direction is spark and the other is fuel. You need to determine the path we need to take.

I have had symptoms of hard start after hot soak.
I can drive fine in the morning or after I leave work to go home. If I drive somewhere and run an errand for 10 minutes and come back I can't get the car started. I've had coils replaced, battery is 2yo, spark plugs are new and I just had the fuel pressure regulator kit installed at dealer. After the new FPR kit was installed the car will only crank after running an errand and not start at all.

I would check the fuel filter and revisit that pressure regulator, to make sure its the correct one, shops make mistakes all the time, but check the filter first.

Believe it or not, the car actually gets hotter after you shut it down because the WP is not circulating the antifreeze. I say this because a LONG time ago a friend was having a similar problem. Turned out as the car got hotter after he shut it down it expanded which caused a switch or sensor (I can't even remember which one) to create an open circut until the car cooled enough to contract and close the circut. I don't know if this helps, but it sure is interesting.

that can actually be true, and what usually is the problem is the engine coolant temp sensor. have it checked, and remember, just because a sensor may be faulty, does not always cause a check engine light.