Engine cranks will not start?

Hello,

This one's puzzling, if you have spark, fuel, and compression then your vehicle should start. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
Your vehicle might be getting fuel, but not enough pressure for the injectors to run properly. I have included the fuel pressure specs and testing procedures for your vehicle in the diagrams down below. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out. We can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Thanks I will check it out. I also didn’t add that I sprayed starting fluid which should had started it but didn’t. Also when it happened I got in turned it on it started fine. Put it in reverse backed up a few feet and it shut off. And haven’t been able to get it started since.

Hello again,

Okay, well then let's make sure your vehicle is getting spark. I have included a link for you to go to down below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please go through this guide and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

It’s got spark , fuel , compression checked timing , exhaust , checked main relay Everything is good just turns over no start stuck and not sure what to do next or look for.

Hello again,

This really sounds like a fuel pressure issue. What did you get when you checked the fuel pressure?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

my car was running then i turn of and a hour later it would not start. i am getting injection pulse also fire. at one point its sounded as if it wanted to start but it did not and still has not. what can i check?

Do you have ignition spark? if not the ignition module in the distributor may be faulty. often cheaper to get a replacement distributor if this is the case.

yes, i have ignition spark. i tested with a spark plug plugged into the spark plug wire and when we roll the engine i see blue spark.

if you have spark and injection pulse, sounds as if you have a fuel problem. can you test the fuel pressure?

i got it working. i changed the rotor brush and spark plus work okay, but now when i put it in drive or reverse it just cuts off. if i disconnect the lock up solenoid it moves but very slow. what can be the cause of why it cuts off?

When you put it in gear is a jolt? Can you please make a video with your phone and upload it to the site?

im sorry i dont have a phone right now but yes it jerks into gear and then sputter and then cuts of if i press the gas so it can rev high then the car will move but once i come to a stop while in drive it shuts of and always starts back up i was told replace the torque converter what you think

Yep that's what I was thinking it has a lock up clutch inside that can come apart and stay locked up which will stall the engine the instant you put it in gear. Does it seem like this is what is happening?

so do u think its the torque converter like we suspect

A video of the problem would confirm but yes it sounds like it

ill try to see if i can make video thanks

If the lock up solenoid is faulty and the clutch is in the lock position, it will feel like the car is trying to drive off in top gear, a live data scan will show if the solenoid is energized, if so the problem should be there, if the valve is in the off position you will have to look further into the problem.

ok i changed the torque converter but car still jerk hard when putting onto drive or reverse and then shuts of what else can i check

heres what im experiencing spark plug number 4 and 5 misfires but when i remove the wire slightly away is starts to run better what causes this on my honda accord v6

It sounds like you may have a blown head gasket between two cylinders. Do a compression test on each of them and report back with the readings.

Here is a guide to help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

ok i change the 2 spark plug and the number 4 and 5 fires ok do u think my igniter can cause it to stall out when i put in drive seeing that i had to change number 4 and 5 spark plug

my car has a distributor i was thinking my igniter could be the culprit as to why it runs good in park but have a slight misss and when put in drive it holds the load for a couple seconds then stall out what you think

Are you replacing the spark plugs with factory recommendation plugs?

Here is a guide that should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

yes what i notice now is that even though the car is in park with engine running when i turn on the air condition it just stalls out

How are the spark plugs? If they are bad it will cause the problem you are describing.

guess what it was my crank sensor i took it down and muck was built up on it seeing that i replace it and car so far appears ok thank alot for all the time u took out to assist

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken

The accord just will not start. It will turn over, but not start. Our local honda mechanic thinks it has "lost" its program. What would this consist of, how did it happen and what will the potential cost be for repair?

Hi MTHarris,

When vehicle could not start, we need to know what is missing. Namely
1. Fuel.
2. Ignition sparks.

Can you tell us more about the problem?

Is the security key blinking on the dash when starting?

i've had a weak / bad battery that only turned the motor over but wont crank.

if you observe or hear a clicking sound during start up, it will be more than likely your starter.

try checking plugs, wires, also. if all of the above dont work try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting and be sure to double check the terminal, make sure there nice and tightly secure.


if you can provide more info on your problem iam sure someone on here can get you back on track.
good luck* MT

i had took the car to honda because the car did crank not start so when they did a diagnosis they said there was power going to computer but no response or something like that so they said i needed a new computer is this true? my car makes the vroom sound but just dont turn on checked battery fuel pump not that old

Cranks but no start condition:

Fuel and Spark:
Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

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Have replaced ckp sensor, plugs and one ignition coil. The timing belt marks are right on. Compression is 130 to 160 on all cylinders. Have fuel, fire and air. Converter is not plugged. Check engine light flashes but does not set a code. Before no start car would start and run but ran rough. Now it wont start at all. Is it a bad ECU? Any suggestions?

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. also try resetting security system See links.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Fuel pressure is good. 50+. I think either the new ckp sensor I put in is bad or the computer possibly.

I doubt it is the computer.

It was a bad new crank position sensor.

it happens, glad you got it fixed.

Thank you for your help!