Codes P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, and P2419

When did the vehicle stall out on you? The P1603 is a new code and is a result of the Evap system issues. This code is the Engine stalling out (below 200RPMs) without the Ignition Switch being turned off. You need to take care of the Evap system....

Are these the readings you want?

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Video

Yes, that's exactly what I was meaning. Don't worry about doing the Graphing thing right now.
Are these readings from the vehicle just sitting and idling in your driveway or something?

these readings from the vehicle just when it's at parking.

Okay, a few things stand out right away, give me a minute to look up a few things. I'll respond back shortly.

Okay.

Can you give me another run through that Data when the car is fully warmed and has been running for about 15-20 minutes? I just want to see if any of these numbers change much. And how is it running right now, what's the outside air temperature where you live right now?

Tomorrow I will send you that data and the car is moving for half an hour on the highway.

The outside air temperature is 35c.

Okay, send data for the highway drive and then when you get home after that drive send the data of it idling in the driveway. That way it will be nice and hot from the drive. But it looks like your Mass Air Flow sensor has some carbon build up on it or there is a lack of air flow through the engine. The reading was too low. It also looks like the Catalytic Converter Temperatures were indicating a possibly failed Converter. That can happen if there is an overly rich running condition. The Temperature sensors 1 and 2 had a huge variance in Temperature. Also, the engine was reading almost a 50% calculated Load and the car wasn't even moving. I think there's quite a few issues here. Does this car have any power at all?

This picture was taken today when I filled up the car at the station with twenty liters gasoline.

Counter number 163 MPG, the total consumption of the car is forty liters gasoline.

The load may be due to the wrong size of the car tires.

No calculated engine load is a calculation done by the engine computer from sensor data. The 1.8g/s on the Mass Air Flow sensor is too low.

Yes, this car has a power.

Data for the highway drive .

I ran a Volumetric Efficiency (VE) test according to the numbers from your data as you drove. A volumetric efficiency test reveals the ability of the engine to breathe or the volume of air it able to take in, in full measure. The highest it hit was barely 70% and that was at 3500rpm. Most of the time it was very low. The Long-Term Fuel trim was over 10% at some points (10% is the absolute max I like to see). It also looked like the Mass Air Flow sensor is reading low. I think you're going to have to get some Mass Air Flow cleaner spray and clean to small resistors inside the air intake boot. It's the main sensor for determining the amount of fuel injected into the engine. It could increase your power output, I can tell its not running at full power. And if the codes keep returning for the Evap assembly, you're going to have to replace it, I can tell you don't want to, but according to Toyota with those 4 codes coming up together and there's no electrical connection issues, you can only replace the canister as a unit. The VE test shows that the Catalytic Converter may have started to not be able to store enough oxygen and is starting to melt down. But I would worry about getting the codes taken care of first. The front Air/Fuel ratio sensor looks like it's working good. so does the rear Oxygen sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-emission-control-systems-work

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mass-air-flow-service

Okay, thank you.

One last thing, if the Parking brake is still stuck on, or even partially on, it will drastically reduce your gas mileage.. If youre not sure about it, jack up the rear end and try to spin a tire.

If I had thought about buying a special evaporative system for a 2012 Tacoma, it is exactly the same as the one in the Rav4. What's your opinion?
The Evap system for the Rav4 vehicle costs $ 700.00.
A Tacoma costs $300.00.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/301312113018?_ul=YE

No, that won't work, they are different part numbers. There may be differences in fuel tank size and canister size. The two vehicles have different size engines. But are you sure you don't want to have a shop take a look at the system, you had a vent valve you said was stuck closed and you got it freed up, but the computer is still setting codes for it? Plus, the live data while at Idle and driving indicates other problems with engine. The almost %10 positive Fuel Trim at idle points to a vacuum air leak because the Fuel Trim starts getting better with throttle open (driving). Plus, the Mass Air Flow sensor is not reading correctly, 1.8 grams per second at idle is too low. Thats a sensor under reporting air flow.
I think you're going to replace this really expensive evap assembly just to find there are other problems. Below is from your last live data post and points possible vacuum leaks, or sensors giving incorrect readings, The VE test shows definite issues.
I really think its in your best interest to have a shop take a look at the vehicle and go through and check everything. The live data is getting worse every time you post new scan data. It's better to get it all fixed at once, so other components don't fail prematurely.

I couldn't find the cleaner for the mass air sensor. Is it possible to use a substitute for it like the one in the pictures?

no, absolutely not. It has to be Mass Air Flow cleaner, The sensor has very sensitive small resistors that have a layer of clear coat on them to protect the resistors. You'll damage the coating on the resistors. You may have damaged the Vent valve with the carpet cleaner you sprayed into that as well. those valves aren't supposed to have anything spray into them, take the Air Filter box top off and look at the Mass Air Flow sensor, you'll see its a very small hot wire sensor. Also take off the Air Intake Boot that goes to the throttle body and see if the throttle plates have carbon build up on them. I think this vehicle has multiple problems, and Im assuming you live in an area where there may not be many automotive shops. Its difficult to give advice when you dont have access to the proper cleaning material and tools. If you noticed on your scan tool live data, there was a data PID listed Long Term Fuel Trim and it was about %10 positive. and sometimes it was even higher. Thats the number we need to get lowered. That number is what the engine computer is doing with fuel management. 10% is the absolute max I would allow, even then personally I think its too much. An engine that is running good would have Fuel Trim numbers around 2 to 3%.. At 10% the engine computer is adding alot of fuel to the air fuel mixture to compensate for extra air its monitoring entering the engine. I noticed it seemed to be higher at Idle when the vehicle wasnt moving. Since your vehicle has a mass air flow sensor, that means that the air entering the engine is not being read by that sensor. If it was the Fuel Trim numbers wouldnt be so high. So there is air getting in from some other place. Possibly threw the Evap system since you have 4 or 5 codes for that particular system. To get your fuel mileage up, that Fuel trim number needs to come down,
You can try blocking off the Purge valve line very temporarily and watch to see if those Fuel Trim numbers come down. Then you will know if thats where the additional unmetered air is coming from.
But as for cleaning the mass air flow sensor, Im adding below a couple of videos from our Youtube site for 2CarPros, it will give you a better idea of how to clean the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body. So start there and see if it helps, just remember the Long Term Fuel Trim is the number to watch. You want it as close to zero as you can get it,..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbI-GQObduk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBQWElA-3Zk

https://www.youtube.com/c/2carpros/videos

Is it possible to use this cleaner.

yes, that's Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner, see if it's possible to look into the sensor and see the resistors on the wire. Some sensors you can and some you can't. They are small so you might need magnifying glass to see how dirty they are, but by the look of the Evap canister it looks like you live in a dusty area. Since you have a scanner that can read live data, take a look at the Mass Air Flow g/s (grams per second) before and after the cleaning, to see if it made a difference. But it was reading 1.8 g/s at idle in one of your posts, it should have been above 2 g/s at least at idle.

What about this canister pipe? may it cause the evap fault?

You're still getting all of these, P043F, P043E, P2401, P2419? I doubt it's one hose causing all these codes.
Check the Purge Valve, see if there's any signs of liquid gasoline in it (pic 2). It's in the engine compartment.

Today before cleaning.

After I have cleaned the mass air sensor.

I forgot to scan the live data as you said before cleaning the sensor.

.

Okay, the Mass Air Flow pictures show that the sensor looked very dirty and the Long-Term Fuel Trim Numbers improved a little bit, did you inspect the Purge valve under the hood, it should normally be closed if the engine is off. and you unplug its electrical connector. I still think you have an air leak somewhere; the Fuel Trim went from 10% to around 7% which is an improvement but could still be better. Also are the Evap codes still Active?

The Purge valve is normally closed.

Yes, the evap codes still active.

Yes, but were there any signs of liquid gasoline in the valve or in the lines coming to the valve? Also, if you block off the Purge valve hose that goes to the Intake manifold, does the Fuel Trim Number come down when the vehicle is idling in Park?

And there's a smell of gasoline inside the car when I switch on the vehicle.

No, any signs of liquid of gasoline in the valve.

That's not a good sign, which can mean a few things, there can be a gas leak in the engine compartment, the engine is running very rich, there is a leak in the Evap system. When did that start happening? I think you should have a shop look at the vehicle, one that has the proper equipment to diagnose what's happening. If you're smelling gasoline, that can be very dangerous, there is a chance of a fire. I highly recommend you take it to a shop. They need to check the Evap system with the proper tools to pressurize it and smoke test it. It's not worth going back and forth like this. There is obviously a serious problem that needs to be diagnosed by a technician who has the training to do so.,

2,000 RPMs - 4,000 RPMs.