Coolant problem, I have been having to add coolant every 2-3 days?

No, that is all incorrect. The oxygen sensors are strictly input devices, they do not control voltage to anything. The sensors only measure the amount or lack of oxygen in the exhaust, thats it. The EGR valve has no vacuum control at all, I showed you the diagram, it is an electric motor that opens and closed the valve. there is nothing to do with vacuum on modern vehicles. Dont replace anymore sensors until you find out if the oxygen sensor heaters are working. Neither sensor will function without their heaters. Ive posted service info on the operations of these systems, they do not function like older vacuum controlled designs. All that is gone. Dont spray any cleaner into the Purge valve, youre going to ruin the valve. You're disregarding all of the information I have posted so far, when a code sets it does not mean that component is the cause, its the result of incorrect operation of the component, therefore you need to follow service information on how to correctly test the component and its control system.

This is all that controls the EGR, two wires, thats it. You cant guess at how a circuit or component works, youre all over the map here, you cant fix something if you do not know how it works. Did you check the fuse for the oxygen sensor heaters with a test light yet?
Here is all the pin point testing for the EGR valve.

Yes that’s what is most likely going to happen. I did order an upstream 02 because I replaced the downstream and the sensor2 codes are gone. I seen somewhere that 02 senses the biggest issue is heavy oil consumption that’s burning off through exhaust and coolant from an internal leak ruins them too. I m going to replace that and the purge solenoid hopefully tomorrow if the come. Nobody had a 02 senses in stock on line I got sensor and purge solenoid cheaper then just the sensor in an auto store. I’m thinking the upstream is giving the PCM wrong readings so the pcm is adjusting fuel and air mixture incorrectly which also will affect the voltage and vacuum to open the valves correctly in the EGR valve assembly, I’m probably wrong, I usually am but I’ll let you know either way. If this doesn’t work it’ll go in shop somewhere, wording not my strong point and it might be there or the computer itself.

Don't put a cheap upstream sensor in (B1S1). Only use an oem,. These A/F ratio sensors are wide band sensors that are extremely accurate in their measurements. They work off of current flow instead of voltage like the rear 02 does. The EGR valve assembly does not work off of vacuum in any manner at all. Im not sure why you keep mentioning vacuum when it comes to the EGR valve. The EGR system only opens and closes a small electric motor to allow a small amount of exhaust gases into the intake manifold under heavier engine loads. The added exhaust gases are introduced to strictly lower combustion chamber temperatures and this prevents NOX gases from being produced. NOX is a harmful emissions gas which, by law, needs to be extremely low. Thats why the EGR tubing goes to the intake manifold. The code is most likely setting because there is a leak somewhere thats skewing the test results. If theres an intake manifold leak, and the PCM opens the EGR valve during its self test, the PCM will not see enough pressure change during the EGR opening because the intake leak has already lowered pressures too much, the PCM will then conclude there is insufficient flow, because the pressure is already too low to begin with.

Pull up your live engine data and look at the Long and Short Term Fuel Trims at idle and 2500rpm, but try to check this when the combustion engine is running, not the electric motor. If there is an issue with the front AF sensor giving incorrect data the Fuel Trims will be off. Fuel Trim is the air/fuel ratio compensation.
Fuel Trims will also be effected if there is an intake leak. This is probably the cause of the p0139 code as well, unless the oxygen sensor heaters are not working. If the heaters are not working, it doesnt matter how many times you change the sensors, if theres no power to the heater circuits the sensors will just sit there and do nothing. >>> Fuse blown?

Hey Al, got parts today and put them on. I cleared the codes , sometimes when I clear them one or two might hang in there after I cleared them so I didn’t recheck it after I cleared them. Cleared them 8 all together. Took car out only. 4-5 miles so who knows what tomorrow will bring. It did feel a alot more responsive then it felt in a long time. Come home light still out. Gas milage went up to 39.8 mpg which I didn’t see in a long time, it’s been hanging around32-36 mpg. Reran the code scanner and I have as of now 1 code I can’t remember what one it was po138 or po139 just can’t remember. It’s definitely b1s2. I’ll know more tomorrow after work when I rescan it. I’ll attach a photo of the sensors . The upstream has a funny grey white coating on it I never seen before, perhaps you might recognize it, the solenoid I replaced I’m not sure on. The new one you can’t blow through but the old one you can blow right through, possibly cause warm? I haven’t a clue, i figured they worked off voltage. Anyway it’s a definite improvement on power and gas milage. Not sure either if that senor downstream has to cycle 1 or 2 times to not show on a scan, also when both o2 sensors die at same time I seen it’s usually caused by oil or coolant getting in there some how. If my EGR valve was clogged and both sensors went bad what are the odds of converter being clogged enough to throw downstream sensor voltage high? Thanks just curious on your input. Dealers way to expensive for converters.

That white carbon is due to that coolant leak. The Purge valve with the green and white (2 wires) should be normally closed when it's unplugged. So if you can blow through the old one, then its no good. Your scan tool data should list the EGR position in engine live data, and if you pull heavy throttle you should see the EGR position opening, Its used under heavy load/ heavy throttle because thats when NOX gases are produced. I thought they had replaced the EGR valve already?

Okay Al, we done it! So, apparently the coolant leak in EGR cooler for 20,000 miles leaking into exhaust took out the EGR assembly and both oxygen sensors. The purge valve solenoid that I replaced I think was bad too because that’s right up by the throttle body. I today have no check engine light on and reran the scanner and it said this car had no codes. Thanks again for all your help!!!! Now a transmission and my car be brand new again. Knock on wood!!!

It was leaking for 20,000 miles!? Thats crazy, I didnt know it was occurring for that long. So you replaced the egr assembly as well?

We've been at this since Jan 23th, quite a while, hopefully no new codes come up. Just keep an eye on the Long and Short Term fuel trims. They should be under +/-10% at max. Thats important for the Cat's life

Yes the dealership did the EGR valve assembly and the EGR cooler and the intake for free. When I got it back the check engine light was on when I picked it up, I was tired of their crap so I brought it home. Then I ended up replacing rear o2 sensor because they had the wiring harness touching the exhaust manifold and burnt the insulation, but wires looked okay, but you never know, then most codes pointed to o3upstream sensor. So I replaced that as well and I used rock auto. .com do I ordered the solenoid purge valve to because of a suspicion I had because it’s right at the throttle body . And now the power is back has milage is over 40 mpg highway, should get about 50 city cause it uses more electric in short stop and go traffic. So I think this nightmare is over . So to recap it : at about 90 some thousand the head suppose to have went do they replaced head under warranty. At 97 thousand miles the motor spin a bearing so the put new motor with another new head on it it came with, this whole time since head number 1 was put on it was still drinking coolant. After new motor and head it still was drinking coolant so they replaced the new head with another’s new head and that’s all warranty work so far, still drinking coolant and told them it’s gotta be the EGR cooler because it’s going somewhere and it’s not in oil or external leak. Now they said it’s the intake manifold y cracked and it’s losing it there and getting into exhaust, I spoke with the mechanic on this and he argued with me that my car has no EGR cooler. So I gave up and said ok put the manifold on which was under warranty. I said I’ll be back again with this problem. When I dropped it off for the manifold replacement I demanded that cool to be taken off and inspected for internal cracks. Went to pick up the car and they put a new EGR cooler on free of all charge. I looked and went back in and said where is the new manifold? They never put it on. Do I left it there for that to get done. Mechanic finished it and the check engine light came on so he put a new EGR valve assembly on free of all charges, so then figured they did do about 1500 worth of parts and labor they should of charged me for I’ll finish it up. So a good 20-30 gallons of coolant was evaporated through exhaust after it went through the EGR system to get in there. That coolant took the EGR valve out and both oxygen sensors and the purge valve solenoid, so I got lucky money wise . Cost me about 250 in parts to get normal again, and 20-30 gallon of coolant at almost 20 bucks per gallon, so I made out good in the end . And I ow it all to your help , I wouldn’t and couldn’t of done this on my own, the damn dealership couldn’t even do it. Don’t think I missed anything. I appreciate all your help, emails and diagrams and diagnosis on this. It was a great pleasure meeting you and I hope to meet you sometime but maybe in the bar next time for a cold one. I got the shots of cars for a little bit.
Thanks
Mark Goodwin

That's good, the burnt wires on the exhaust explains the 02 heater codes, etc. But Im glad there was finally some closure here. We don't always get to hear the end result of most issues, so it's nice after 5 months. thanks Mark..

Al