brake pedal it goes normal until close to the bottom and then continues about a quarter inch with a clunk at the bottom?

Okay now I think the brakes are working I am able to move them and when somebody puts on the brakes I cannot move them. If I charge up the battery and turn the key do you think the pedal will sink to the floor?

Was everything replaced on the driver's side too? Does it release when you open the bleeder on the caliper? As far as the vehicle running vs not running, you will get power assist and it will be easier to depress, but it shouldn't go to the floor.

Let me know.

Joe

Yes everything was replaced on the driver's side. I put the old caliper bracket on the driverside and greased up the caliper pins and everything seems to have worked and the pedal is staying solid so far.

I will have to wait to charge the battery I will let you know if I have anymore problems thanks for the help.

Chad,
Let me know how things work out for you. And if I helped at all, you're very welcome.

Take care,
Joe

Okay the driverside front brake has got a lot of drag on it. Just turning it by hand was kindve hard.

Welcome back Chad,
Open the bleeder on the caliper when the drag is on it and let me know if the drag goes away.

Joe

On the the push rod adjustment diagram which is the 1 and which is the 2?

Hi:
In the picture, number 2 is the push rod (brake booster side) and number 1 is the distance. Is that what you needed?

Let me know,
Joe

So 1 is the 24mm and the 25mm is 2?

Never mind that last question. maybe I screwed it all the way back in bled the brakes when I got to to rear driver's side I kept pumping with hose and bottle and a lot of air came out. I don't know if it was getting empty in the reservoir. But I filled it back up. And kept pumping so I move on to the next brake no air bubble came out the drivers front and no air came out .

And the drivers side brake is almost perfect, I can turn the rotor without using all my strength it is little tighter than the passenger side but not by much.

Okay:
It sounds like the brakes are releasing now. Is that correct? And the numbers listed are tolerance allowances for adjusting the push rod.

Okay, yes thank you. Just have to get a new battery and see how everything works out.

Sounds like a plan. I hope it works properly for you. Let me know how things work out.

Take care,
Joe

Hi:
I'm not sure why this came back up, but I am interested in knowing if you ever found the issue.

If you get a chance, let me know.

Joe

Replaced front brake pads, after which the pedal had extreme slack and had to pump to stop. Bled brakes to no avail. so I was going to bleed again but bleeder valve (driver side) wouldn't budge. Went to drive back home to attempt further to loosen it and low and behold I had no brakes at all. I have checked booster, master cylinder, brake lines, proportion valve, ABS module and all seem in fine working order. I bled the brakes again from passenger side and then tried the driver side to realize I'm getting no fluid to driver side. so again checked lines by blowing through both ways with air hose. Still no fluid and no pedal at all.

Good afternoon,

The pressure comes from the master cylinder. Most likely you need that and the caliper that you cannot bleed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-caliper-replacement

I would start there.

Roy

Hello thanks for using 2CarPros.

it seems complete brake system is trapped by air bubbles. you must follow bleeding process by sequence starting from rear right then rear left, front right finally front left. check picture.

Follow our guide:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Please let us know what happens with you.
Thank you.

Okay, so after bleeding repeatedly in sequence (including bleeding master cylinder) we had fluid to all but left (passenger) rear. A friend said to open all and let flow until fluid at all. Done that but still no pedal. Re-bled in sequence but now have nothing to front calipers but steady stream to rear.

Did you replace the master cylinder?

Roy

Well, I just realized that I don't know right from left so maybe that is the problem. Will try bleeding in the right sequence.

Okay, did you replace the master cylinder?

Roy

Did not replace master cylinder. We tested it and it seems to be working fine.

How did you test it? You have no pressure to a couple of wheels.

Roy

depress brake pedal holds good let off a little pedal goes to floor.

That's the classic symptom of a failing master cylinder. You're still holding pressure on it, but you're modulating that pressure.

The clue to this "internal leakage" is you're not losing brake fluid. This article explains it better:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

Here's a trick I've used since the '80s to avoid having to bleed at the wheels.

When you replace the master cylinder with two steel lines, loosen the line nuts a little, remove the mounting bolts to the power booster, pull the master cylinder forward, then use it as a handle to bend the steel lines up a little. That will keep the fluid from running out of the lines.

Remove the two lines all the way, then remove the master cylinder. Brake fluid eats paint, so be careful to not allow any to drip onto the truck.

Screw the two lines into the new master cylinder that has been bench-bled, then use it to bend those lines back down to their normal shape. Bolt it to the booster, then snug one of the line nuts. Have a helper slowly push the brake pedal half way to the floor. It should take about 15 seconds to do that. You'll see bubbles coming out by that nut. Snug the nut, then holler to the helper to quickly release the pedal.

Do that a second time, and perhaps a third time, until you see only clear fluid with no bubbles coming out, then do that for the other line. By pushing slowly, fluid will get pushed down the lines, and air will float back up. By releasing the pedal quickly, the fluid rushing back will wash the air back up into the reservoir with it. This can even work when working on the car by yourself, just keep the line nuts tight.

This wondrous trick might not work on Fords that have four lines at the master cylinder. You still don't have to bleed at the wheels, but it can take a little longer for all the air bubbles to be expelled into the reservoir.

It's good practice to never push the pedal over half way to the floor, although it won't matter with a rebuilt master cylinder. Once they get to be about a year old, crud and corrosion build up in the lower halves of the bores where the pistons don't normally travel. Pushing the pedal to the floor, like most do-it-yourselfers do, runs the rubber lips seals over that crud and can rip them. That results in a slowly-sinking brake pedal, and that often doesn't show up until two or three days later.

When you're replacing calipers or wheel cylinders, a lot of people make misery for themselves by allowing the master cylinder to run empty, then they have to bleed the entire circuit. Often a scanner is needed on anti-lock brake-equipped vehicles to open some of the valves so the chambers can have the air expelled. To avoid that, use a stick between the seat and brake pedal to hold the pedal down an inch or two. Gravity won't be strong enough to pull the fluid past the lip seals.

Also, when you do bleed at the wheels after replacing the master cylinder, any air in the lines gets pushed down to the wheels, and if the vehicle has anti-lock brakes, it's common on most designs for that air to become trapped in the hydraulic controller. That's where you need the scanner to do the bleeding procedure. I find it much easier and faster to just avoid pushing that air down there.

Here's another article you find useful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

if I pump I get brakes . Took of wheel and saw that the diamond looking pin is out on drivers side could this be the problem? The pad look good . And do I need to bleed them?

Good evening,

It does sound like you have air in the system but I think more that you need a master cylinder.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

Yes, it needs to be bled.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Can you upload a picture of the piece?

Roy

Basically just got the truck, had a leaking rear wheel cylinder. So I replaced both rear wheel cylinders, brake lines, brake shoes, then replaced both front axle bearings, front pads, and both calipers. I have bled the system several times, because I kept thinking I did not get all the air out. When I have pumped the brakes and bled them it would get to be a nice firm brake pedal. Now here`s the problem, when I start the truck and apply not much pressure the brake goes to the floor and won`t come back until I pull it up. So at a loss, don`t want to keep replacing things, like booster, or master cylinder, and even found out that the truck has RABS (rear ABS).

This could be a number of things but it sounds like you replaced the common ones. Here is a guide that goes through this issue:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

This is one of two things. First you either still have air in the lines or there is a leak. If you have no leak outside the system then we can still have an internal leak allowing the pressure to bleed off rather then being applied to the brakes.

If you have not replaced the master cylinder then this would be the most likely cause. I would take the lines off the master cylinder and cap the outlets and then press the brake pedal. If the pedal still goes to the floor then the master cylinder has a leak internally. If not, then the master cylinder is fine and we have an issue is further down in the system.

Let me know if you have questions about this and we can go from there. Thanks

Thank you, do you need to bleed the ABS hydraulic unit? Oh, and I have checked for leaks any where in the system and nothing is apparent.

You only need to bleed the hydraulic unit if it is replaced. Once it is bled it is okay so this is most likely not the issue.

If you have no external leaks, I would go after the master cylinder. If you find it is the issue, just make sure you bench bleed it so that you don't damage it when trying to bleed it on the vehicle.

Thanks, I need to get to the parts store and pick up some bolts to plug the master cylinder and test it, but might get the master cylinder anyway. Just trying to figure it out, because we got it for a second vehicle and haven`t even got to put it on the road. Plus, on a fixed income at my age. So really want to thank you, and Ill let you know. Oh, being I do this by myself, been using the jar method for bleeding, should I just try the gravity method.

Sounds good. If you get bolts just make sure they are not too long or you will crack the master cylinder. Just use a whole bunch of washers if needed. You can compare the depth to the depth of the lock nut on the actual line. It should be no longer then the threads of the nut on the line.

Gravity bleeding can work but it doesn't always get all the air out. You will need to bench bleed the master cylinder as that will gravity bleed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Hoping to get to the store on Saturday, figure I`ll get the bolts and probably get the master cylinder. I don`t get there to often due to transportation. so that way if it turns out to be the master cylinder I`ll have it to change out, if I don`t need it then I can bring it back. Thanks for the bolt size information, didn't think of that. to bleed the brakes do I need to take the spring out of the ABS unit. I seen a thing on YouTube that said you need to take the spring out, and I actually have no idea. But I can take it out if needed. thanks

No. I don't believe you do. I am not sure what you saw on the internet but once the ABS is bled it doesn't need to be done again. If you can post a link to that video, I will take a look and see what they were saying.

Thanks

it`s on YouTube, (how to bleed brakes with RABS ( Ford ABS ). When I was checking to see if there was another way to bleed brakes. Now when I bleed the brakes, start passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front then do I bleed ABS valve ? then driver front?

Okay. I will check that out but I think I misunderstood with what you were saying earlier.

You are correct with needing to do the ABS valve but not in the process you stated. I attached the process from the manual.

Hi Kenny, well put the new master cylinder in and bench bled it. Then I was going by the process sheet you sent, but not really getting any fluid out of the ABS valve. Is there a certain way ? I even left it open and pumped the brakes and got very little fluid. I would say it has to have fluid somehow going through it because I bled the rear brakes okay. Could there be that much air in it? Thinking of trying to gravity bleed it and just hook a tube to it and crack it open, not sure what to try next.