Can a bad caliber, warped rotor, stuck or jamming slide pins cause a rumble and skipping without hitting the brakes?

Joe F. Now you have a new method to diagnose. It actually works really well. There is a very small learning curve with placement and positioning. Once you do it 1 or 2 times you quickly learn. Like I looked at the torque strut/ control arm 20 times in second video and didn't notice it's cracked till reviewing the video. It's amazing what you find when reviewing video/audio then in person.

Hi,

Don't laugh, but I already tried it. LOL And yes, it works well. The customer thought I was crazy, but it did what I needed.

I'm glad you found the issue. Please feel free to come back anytime in the future. You are always welcome here.

Take good care of yourself and thanks for the idea.

Joe

I posted two videos, what do you think is causing it? It seems to be louder on the right side.

I hear it. Is it only when you apply the brakes?

This is the weird thing. Before it was only when applying brakes. Now it's more frequent. It happen until happen till you get to around 30.

To rule out the drive shaft or bearing flex plate. I'm going to place my phone in the middle of the car around the transmission. If those noises are louder and more pronounced, it means something with the drive shaft is bad. It's just so freaking weird that all of this started when I replaced the compressor for airmatic. It's located behind fog light in wheel well. I had to reinstall the main hose as it blew off. Now it's worse after touching the compressor again. Nothing is rubbing that was my first thought. It's driving me nuts since everything happened after, but nothing is causing it.

So, I put the phone about 6 to 8 inches from the center of drive shaft next to bearing. While the rumble/grinding barely happened. It did that binding scraping when coming to full stop slightly. While it barely happened, you cannot hear any of those noises from yesterday at all. So that rules out that part of the drive shaft. Now I have to find a way to get my phone to stay under or on side of transmission. If there is little to no noise that means the problem comes from the right wheel. As that was the loudest pronounced so far.

I'm really confused. So, I loosen and tight wheel bearing locking nut less. I went up the street to convenience store and it was still doing it. instead of going straight home I took long way. I got on the gas, and slowly it stopped doing it. After another minute it stopped 99% I gave the car a lot of gas and there was almost nothing. Then when I came to stop it was pretty much smooth. So now it stopped. But if I go back out it will most likely do it again. Any ideas... I have 2 videos ine under transmission and another under bearing in center of car for drive shaft. Sorry there so long it takes time to mount phone jack down car out tire on ECT....

Under transmission back side. About 10 inches down and away from u joint.

Hi,

Are you sure the wheel bearing used was good? Did you also replace the race?

Joe

This video is under the bearing for drive shaft. I don't hear anything that screams bad shaft flex plate ECT unless I'm just missing it. Out of all the videos the right side seemed the loudest and worst by far. Both hubs are Brand New. They came with new races, bearings and seals already pressed and prepacked. Yesterday when I drove around and did heavy acceleration, I realized what it feels like.
When you have ABS brakes and you jam them you get crunching, skipping. Mix that with a flat tire and grinding brake pads. That how it feels. Sound wise it isn't that loud. It's mostly felt. When driving it happens at different speeds sometimes it won't start shaking or vibrating until 25 to 30MPH and it does get a little worse with speed increases. It varies, though it does happen at lower speeds. When you let off the gas and start coasting to a stop or braking that's when everything is at it worse. It is usually at 20 MPH to 0. That when the rumble, skipping crunch err grr happens. Yesterday it was doing it a lot even at really low speeds. I gave it a lot of gas and once I got past 45 it started to get better. A few moments later it almost stopped completely . I know my description is all over the place. It is just so weird. How so many different things are happening and how its so random. It makes it really difficult to give a straightforward explanation.

I'm going to pull the right hub off, and I will double check the bearings. You probably know the saying. Just because a part is new doesn't mean it's good. It could be newly broken.

Hi,

I certainly heard it. I agree with your last saying. You would be amazed how many bad "new" parts I have seen recently. I spent 3 extra hours diagnosing a hesitation because when checked with the scanner, the MAF worked. However, and just by luck, I saw it go crazy. And yes, it was new.

Let me know your findings.

Take care,

Joe

I had something similar happen to me in the past. Never with a MAF but a engine coolant temperature sensor and crank position sensor. Since the issue feel like the ABS locking up and traction control kicking on and off, I'm going to check the ABS and traction control sensors. Maybe they are dirty, and it is causing them to turn on and off when hitting certain speeds. At this point it's best guess. The only other thing it can be a the caliber isn't releasing all the way.

Hi,

Have a helper hit the brakes and then release them to see if there is an excessive drag on the wheel. As far as it not properly released, is there any excessive heat from that wheel after driving?

As far as the ABS, if the brakes are not being applied, they really wouldn't change anything. However, here is a link you may find helpful. It explains how to test them:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-wheel-speed-sensor-test

Let me know if that helps and I hope you have a nice 4th.

Take care,

Joe

I have only checked after very short trips. They didn't seem hotter; I'll drive longer and recheck. My car is set up differently ABS, ESP, BAS, all connected. The abs/speed sensor gets too dirty or starts to fail traction control and ABS can and does come on and off when driving and braking. My buddy's e500 had one that got a lot of grease on it. The car was undrivable with what it was doing. The ABS and ESP would start to engage when he accelerated, and car would buck and jerk plus grid to a stop when braking. Since I'm going to have the jacked up I might as well check, it only takes a second. I'm thinking either the rear bearing seal failed, and it's pressed too much and binding up or the bearings itself are bad even though everything is new. Same to you, happy 4th of July...

In just going to jack up rear put in gear and see if it makes noise. If it doesn't make any noises or vibration, I know it's definitely something to do with the Breaks or wheel bearings. If it does make noise, I can easily narrow it down to location. This is the easiest way at figure out what is wrong.

I'm thinking it's the caliper. The wear pattern on pads looks really weird. The video the caliper seems lazy there Is a small gap that doesn't go away on outer pad.

Wow, yes something is hanging up. Does it have caliper pistons on each side? If it does, replace the caliper. If it only has the piston on the inside of the caliper, the slides are not moving, or the brake pad is seized in the mount.

Let me know what you find or if I can help in any way,

Take care,

Joe

Single piston caliper. I went back and lubed everything still no difference.

Car is in park. It should not be doing that. It's either the Carrier bearing, flex plates or u joint. Since it's coming from the middle, and I can push it up and down and it makes noise plus I can turn by hand, and it clunks I'm thinking Carrier bearing. But I also think the flex plates are worn as well
they say they should be replaced every 10 years. I'm going to bring it to the shop. It's such a pain to do. I have to remove so much stuff.

I was able to replicate the exact noise it makes when stopping. The noise is almost exactly similar when you let off brakes, just enough that pads are still making contact but not enough to hold the car. It's little hard to hear but if you listen to the background noise and not engine you definitely hear it. Mostly the last eight seconds. I have no clue what it can be. It's very possible it's a mix of everything, drive shaft ECT I'm just bringing it to shop. I don't want to keep throwing money at it.

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxgKCFTJ77PS23CrRVCkGkA7AEzVWPwZ20. This link will take you to a cut if a video of a bad center carrier bearing. It is making the exact noise my makes by hand. It makes sense now. When I would drive and hit a bump sometimes it would rumble and feel like a spun bearing but go away in a couple seconds and not come back for days or weeks.

Hi,

The brake pad is an issue. If the pad doesn't make contact, the pins are clean and lubricated, and where the pads mount to the carrier are clean and the pads move freely in them, replace the caliper.

As far as the YouTube link, it wouldn't let me go to it. See pic 1 below for what I get.

Also, what am I listening to in the first video you made?

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

The first video on this page is my driveshaft right at the center support bearing. The video on YouTube is someone with a very similar car who's bearing and rubber support is bad. It's the exact same noise and movement. Also, on Mercedes they use flex plates/ flex disc (5 different names used) at each end of drive shaft that connects to differential and transmission. They are a documented known failure point and consider a must replace every 10 year or less item. I'm not talking about the flex plate in transmission. I'm not sure if that's mixing anything up. Just letting you know to clarify. I'm not sure if that's causing all the issues. The support is definitely bad and has to be replaced anyway. Since the driveshaft has to come out you might as well do the flex plate also. As for the breaks everything is cleaned and lubed 5 times now. Nothing is sticking or binding. I'm waiting for the shop next to my house to open. I'm just going to drop it off to them and see what they say.

I am going to replace the right caliper as well. It definitely has something wrong with it. Also, I have noticed something but haven't thought about it much until now. My steering will pull randomly to one side then it will slowly correct itself. I didn't think about it until now since I knew my outer rods were shot. Since then, I replaced both and it still happens. Since the noise seems to be from the right of car I'll start there.

What causes that swirl pattern on brand new pads and rotors?

Hi,

That is either coming from the rotor or the new pad hasn't fully worn through the top layer.

Let me know how things are going for you.

Joe

You want a good laugh. Bet you can't guess what caused it .... It's my airmatic compressor. Yes the compressor mimic driveshaft and break vibration and noise. I decided to go back to when it started and it first started doing it after I installed the compressor. Since the bushings are worn and the mounts aren't holding it still it's vibrating. The relay is bad as well it's causing it to run when it shouldn't. I removed relay everything goes away and comes back when reinstalled. The only thing I can feel now is my lower driver side ball joint which I already know is bad and the carrier bearing which Im replacing anyways as it should be every 10 years. I still can not believe a compressor was able to mimic driveshaft and break vibration and noise.

I didn't include it in other messages. I got back from Mercedes about my brakes, and they are working just fine. The guy said since the car has semtronic brakes that's how they operate. Each wheel breaks independent of each other based on traction, road conditions, speed ECT. When in park the brakes will not function fully to prevent unnecessary pressure and heat. There is a lot more that is very technical but that is the very basics of it. They also confirmed that I was right, and the compressor is the cause of everything. They have never seen a broken bracket for compressor cause drive shaft and break like grinding, binding and vibration.

Hi,

Is everything working properly now? And was the compressor the cause of all the issues?

Joe

I've removed the relay for compressor 10 times and each time everything stops.
I hooked it back up and it starts doing it again. Mercedes confirmed it as well. Broken compressor bracket caused everything. All the noises, the shaking, the vibration, everything. Since it isn't properly bolted down it's vibrating through the frame. That's why it was so hard to pinpoint the noise and why it was felt in many locations. Also, why it was felt but not really heard. The location in my car muffled the sounds. It also explains why the car would vibrate and make noise at certain speeds. The car is constantly adjusting ride hide based on speed and conditions. I'm happy it's nothing major. I already ordered the new bracket, mount kit and relay. Should be here next week.

Hi,

It's amazing how one thing can mimic something totally different. This is a perfect example.

Would you let me know what you get the parts and if it takes care of the issue? Also, if you could upload pics of the damaged part, I would like to see it.

Let me know.

Joe

Definitely. Once the new parts come and I replace it I'll take photos of everything...

Thank you. I have a feeling it will help others in the future.

Take care,

Joe

I have the same feeling. Things like this cause so many headaches and can be extremely costly. It may be a while until the parts get here. They aren't stocked and have to be preordered. I can go to dealership and get the whole kit for $225.00 or more but I would rather go through a German car part company and get it the whole kit for $80.00. Even if that means having to wait awhile. The compressor itself is mounted enough that it cannot cause any other issues or break something else. Once everything gets here, I'll take as many photos as possible.

I can almost guarantee when I send you the pictures you're going to say wait what that tiny little thing caused all of it. That's insane what is Mercedes thinking. Why wouldn't they mount it differently?

Hi,

The pics certainly will be appreciated. As far as thinking that the car manufacturers are insane, I already feel that way. LOL

I can't wait to see it.

Take care of yourself,

Joe

This is just for now as I replaced my valve block. No bracket yet. Still not here. When driving you cannot really hear it, but you feel it. You can understand how intense the vibration is. This is taken in wheel well just below compressor. the compressor isn't connected to anything the phone was mounted to but still vibrated.

Hi,

Wow! That would drive me crazy. I'm surprised you couldn't hear it. But I'm sure you felt it.

Take care and thanks for the update.

Joe