Engine cranks but will not start?

1999 HONDA ACCORD
180,000 MILES • 2.3L • 4 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
Avatar
DUWHOP31
  • MEMBER
  • 151 POSTS
Okay, so i have the car listed above lx model. i can't get it to start. I replaced the battery fuse and battery. And i bought some starter fluid and sprayed it into the air duct and still no start.. it cranks and wants to start but is not starting. What could this be?
Mar 22, 2020 at 2:33 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
TOUGHDIVER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 224 POSTS
Hi,

This could be the engine timing belt has jumped out 1 or 2 teeth. I'm attaching repair guides and the timing marks below. Let us know if you need more information.

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/honda/accord/1999

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
Mar 22, 2020 at 3:33 PM
Avatar
DUWHOP31
  • MEMBER
  • 151 POSTS
What is the third image of? Or what fuse is that and is it in the car or under the hood?
Mar 24, 2020 at 10:37 AM
Advertisement
Avatar
TOUGHDIVER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 224 POSTS
Hi,

I attached the third imaged by mistake the fuse is the one you pull to reset the computer.
Remove the back up light fuse 7.5 A (A) from the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box (B) for 10 seconds. But if you clear the trouble codes you might need them or a repair shop my need them for diagnostic purposes. Let us know if you need more Info.

Thanks
Joe T.
Mar 24, 2020 at 12:51 PM
Avatar
MYSTICALM
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
My 1999 Honda accord ran perfect until I went out to start it one day. It would crank but not start. The repair shop I took it to talked with Honda and they agreed that it probably needed a new distributor. That fixed it for about a week. They installed another distributor and the car still wouldn't start. They towed the car to a Honda dealer, and they're saying now that the motor is bad. This car was very well taken care of, and there were no signs of anything going bad. I don't know what to do now, and I'm wondering if the distributor wasn't hooked up right could this be the cause? After they installed the first replacement I (and they) noticed a green light I'd never seen before on the dash. It was very dim and really only noticeable at night. What do you think? thank you so much for your time and knowledge. :)
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:45 PM (Merged)
Avatar
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 3,380 POSTS
It sounds like there is something the shop is missing.
As far as the dim dash light. Is it an indicator bulb? This is usually from a ground that is not connected correctly and the ground, "Backfeeds" into the dash. This is becasue the dash frame is well ground to the chassis and the path of least resistance if something is not grounded properly under the hood.

Hondas are pretty tough and If you maintained it well, it should at least be starting. Also, if the motor was bad, it would have given you signs before it quit running like;
low power, grinding noises, smoke from the exhaust, etc.

It is not out of the question, but it seem s like they are trying to, "amputate a foot where a band aid would do".

Did they give you any insight as to why they think the motor is bad and why they were wrong about the distributor?
I also wonder about them calling Honda. Unless you have an extended warranty or something equivalent, I would be concerned about a repair shop that had to call for advice to fix your car.

Let me know if you have any other questions as I will keep an eye on this post for your reply.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:45 PM (Merged)
Avatar
MYSTICALM
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you so much for your replies. :)

This is actually my Mothers car and we were sharing it at the time. I got the car info wrong too. It's actually a '99 Civic 4 cylinder..
Yeah, I wasn't buying the new motor deal either. No signs at all. Forgot to mention that the second time it died, I was driving the car. There were no noises or hesitation at all. It was like someone just pulled a plug or something. Maybe the distributor wasn't grounded right? The green light in the dash is a service light. I was reading in the manual that you should be able to put the ignition key in and it should go out after a repair?

The mechanics we had the car towed to were diesel mechanics and the only mechanics the tow truck driver knew of in the area. (so if you're ever in Carrollton, KY...lol) They said they didn't have the testing tools for Honda's, and was the reason they were going to call Honda. They even drained all of the gas out thinking it might of been bad..

I'm now wondering if they even took the the car to Honda for the testing..

Either way, I hope they have all of the paper work and some names from Honda when i can go to get the car. Now searching for a real mechanic in the La Grange / Carrollton KY area also. :)

Thank you so much! :)
I feel much better now, hoping that the "band aid" will work instead of an amputation. lmao Not only the pain, but the cost also!
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:45 PM (Merged)
Avatar
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 3,380 POSTS
This sounds suspicious to me. But, before you decide what you are going to do, we can work on some other possibilities, check out some things and then you can decide which path to take. Electrical repairs are tough, so don't get frustrated...it will work out.

Let me in on a couple of details so I can help as much as I can;

How much gas was in your car? Unless the gas was over 3 months old, that is not something that would stall a car out. Especially if the car had not been sitting for an extended period of time, Was this a suggestion from Honda? There is not a fuel tank drain plug as far as I know so they would have to pump it out. Then they would have to evacuate the residual gas in the pump, lines and probably have suggested cleaning the injectors. don' hit them with questions about that first though, get a case file going so you can, interrogate them if you find enough evidence to warrant such action. I am only going with my experience and instinct. You will have to verify some things as well before really seeing if you have been swindled.

Did they take the car to a Honda dealership? Which one? First take the phone numbers they gave you and do a reverse phone number check which you can find on the internet.
The diagnostic tools to determine if the distributor is bad can be done with a multi-meter and visual inspection. However they would need the specifications to do that. There is a diagnostic tool called an OBD tester. Your car is OBD-2, which is the second generation of , "On-Board Diagnostic" testers in almost every car made and the testers are universal and generally less than $200. The codes would tell them what was wrong with the car, with some very small room for error, and the codes have to be looked up but they are very accessible. Most repair shops would have a higher quality OBD-2 tester which actually translates the code and actually describes the problem ...in several languages:)

I am also concerned about the dash light that you see that is staying on after starting the car. Double check and make sure it is not the ABS light. They could have damaged it during, "whatever" they did to it and make sure that it is not the ABS light as that is something that is easily damaged if the battery is not disconnected during any electrical repairs.

rasmataz is correct about the Crank Position Sensor, (CPS). They do have issues that could lead to ignition problems, which will keep the engine from running. It is also possible that the mechanics who worked on it might have mis-diagnosed the distributor as a failed CPS and were really trying to fix the problem. Keep these things in mind as you work through this since there are a lot of possibilities and diagnosing the electrical system in a car is very tough. So, make sure that you look and consider as many possibilities before we jump to any conclusions.

As far as replacing the engine goes, I would hold off and do some research, consider other possibilities. Since you have done a good job maintaining the car, I think it is highly unlikely that it needs replacement. Also, ask the repair shop how long they will keep the car without going forward with repairs until they start charging you any storage fees. Take this time too look for a repair shop, There are links to reputable repairs shops on this site in your area. Also, consider taking it to a dealership.

Yes, there are some, "suspect" things about the entire scenario, but hold off before making any judgments.

Keep me informed as I will keep this post on the top of my list and get back to you ASAP.

Take care



Sep 28, 2020 at 4:45 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SHAGIE1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
It wont start. It sounds like it wants to start, but it wont start.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:46 PM (Merged)
Avatar
AL514
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 5,464 POSTS
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

here is a link to get you started, but I have worked on a lot of these Honda's. There is a big main relay under the dash on the drivers side. These go bad all the time, and they control everything. To start with, there is a fuse box under the dash, drivers side. check all the fuses here. If you want to make it a bit more simple, check the main relay (think its grey or black) box under the dash drivers side. here is a diagram to help. check for power on every wire with key on and start position except the black wire. that is a ground wire. I have replaced more of these PGM-FI Main relays then I can count. I hope this helps, I know it sounds technical, but it should be and easy fix.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:46 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SALSADEMON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
My 99 accord coupe with 145k miles does not start. While parked, I cranked the car and it almost started but then it turned off. It cranks fine but the engine doesn't run. It was starting OK before this incident. Any pointers as to how to troubleshoot will be greatly appreciated.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:46 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BRUCE HUNT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 3,754 POSTS
As always start with spark to the plugs. Is there fuel being sprayed into the cylinder? You give me that and how you found it and we can take it from there.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:46 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SALSADEMON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
My Honda Accord 1999, 146000 miles, V6 does not start. While parked, I cranked the car and it almost started but then it turned off. It cranks fine but the engine doesn't run. It was starting OK before this incident. Any pointers as to how to troubleshoot will be greatly appreciated.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:46 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BRUCE HUNT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 3,754 POSTS
You need to determine if the car is getting spark to the plugs and then if the car is getting gas to the cylinders. Let me know how you determined each and what you found out. We can take it from there a lot better.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:46 PM (Merged)
Avatar
OLDSMAN1728
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have an intermittent starting problem and have narrowed it down to a relay. When it does not start, it does get spark but no fuel. If I spray some fuel injector cleaner in the intake, it starts for a few seconds. If I let the car sit, it will eventually start. When it does not start, there is no clicking sound from the relay in the dash. When it does start I can hear the click from the relay. With that said, does it sound like a faulty relay? If so, where exactly is it located? (The car is with my son who is away at school - I need to describe to him where exatly to look). Is there a photo or illustration of it's location?
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:47 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SERVICE WRITER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 9,123 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_relay_1.jpg

Sep 28, 2020 at 4:47 PM (Merged)
Avatar
OLDSMAN1728
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Where is the purge solenoid located and what are the steps to replace it? Thanks.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:47 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SERVICE WRITER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 9,123 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_hopub_1.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_hopua_1.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_hopu_1.jpg

This last one I added just cause I was there.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_hopuc_1.jpg

Sep 28, 2020 at 4:47 PM (Merged)
Avatar
OLDSMAN1728
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks for the diagrams - looks easy ehought to locate and change. Do you know what the symptoms are of a defective purge solenoid?
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:47 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SERVICE WRITER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 9,123 POSTS
Typically from the ones I have seen, is it will set a code, and throw the CEL. Other than that, I don't recall others.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:47 PM (Merged)
Avatar
MATTJD33
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Honda Accord, 130000 - History unknown. Car has driven fine for me for several years. For the past few months, I have the following symptoms:
1. Car is drives fine at all speeds - steady state. However, when slowing to a red light or acclerating from a slow speed it periodically jerks a bit.
2. If the car is not started for a few days. It will not start. It turns over and churns but the car will just not start. If I do this for a few consecutive days (normally 2-3) it will eventually start normally and drive fine (with the exception listed above).

Today, I drove the car. I changed the oil tonight. It had been over 10k since the oil was changed. When I was done the car won't start. It displays symptoms listed in #2 above. I verified oil level, tighness of oil cap, drain plug and filter. During the oil change, the only thing that happened that was 'unusual' was that when i removed the oil filter I spread a good about of oil on all components below the filter when i dropped the filter accidentally.

I am ready to affect whatever repairs I need to restore this car. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,
Matt
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:47 PM (Merged)
Avatar
KHLOW2008
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi Matt, Thank you for the donation. When engine could be cranked but does not fire up, you need to verify if it is fuel or ignition system that is causing the fault. 1. Fuel. Test for fuel pressure at fuel rails by releasing the fuel pulsation damper. Use a wrench on the fuel pulsation damper (A) at the fuel rail. Place a rag or shop towel (B) over the fuel pulsation damper. NOTE: Replace all washers whenever the fuel pulsation damper is loosened or removed. Slowly loosen the fuel pulsation damper one complete turn. If pressure is available, fuel would gush out confirming there is pressure.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_FuelPressureRelieve99Accord_1.jpg

If pressure is not available, next to it you can see the fuel pressure regulator. Remove the hose and attach another hose with a collection at its end. Turn ignition switch ON. If fuel rushes out, fuel pump is ok and the regulator is faulty. If no fuel rushes out, check the PGM-FI main relay and fuel pump.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_PGMFIRelay99Accord_1.jpg

2. Ignition. This would be more complex as it involves many components so the first step is to test for sparks at spark plugs. Remove a plug wire and attach a spark plug to its end and ground it to the engine. DO NOT ground it to battery negative terminal, soarking can cause the battery to blow up. Crank the engine and watch the spark if any, it should be bright blue and if it is dull orange, the ignition coil is weak. Let me know what you find out.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:47 PM (Merged)
Avatar
HONDARETIRES09
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Mechanical problem
1999 Honda Accord 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 170k miles

My accord will crank but not start. I had this problem mid last year. The mechanic replaced the alternator and battery. They also said the belt was due but i didnt have money to spare. (I think they just wanted to empty my pocket cause they gave me a long list to get done). I still had the same problem after this expense. Then I had oil change, I asked the techs to change my sparks. Ever since then It was running fine except this one time when i was driving, my car just died. As of today, my car just wont start. It was fine on thursday..I've had my car for 10 years now, 170k. can it be my ignition? i noticed honda has an ignition recall, i think in 2002 and i never received this information. can it be due to this or is my car had reached its limit?? thank you
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:48 PM (Merged)
Avatar
RASMATAZ
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 75,992 POSTS
Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:48 PM (Merged)
Avatar
CALINA BUSTILLOS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
So I am trying to get this car started. it cranks but will not fire spark. The plugs have spark, fuel pump is working, distributor cap, distributor, but it seems like it is not like it wants to start but it is not. I do not smell any gas or anything and I was told I have to take it to the shop to have a fuel filter replaced. please help.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
STRAILER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 53,854 POSTS
Hello,

These cars had a big problem with the distributor going out. Can you remove the cap and looks for rust colored dust please? This is a sign the distributor needs to be replaced.

Please run this test and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
DAVID0217
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Car will intermittently not start. Could be a year or days between the issue. Turns over but seems like it is not getting gas. I go through the procedures in the manual (50% pedal depression for 10 sec., 15 sec pause, full depression, repeat, etc) but doesn't work. After letting it sit for about 30 minutes or so - starts fine. Used to happen on hot days but just recently happened on a cool day.
Any ideas?

03/23/10 - Found out it is the main relay
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
KHLOW2008
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi David0217,

One of the item that would cause intermittent non starting due to lack of fuel is the PGM-FI main relay.

When problem occurs, you need to check if the fuel pump is running at initial ignition on.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
MYHONDA353
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Performance problem
1999 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic 179000 miles

My 1999 Honda Accord won't start. It will turn over and sounds like it wants to start but will not. Do you have a suggestion about what may be causing the problem?
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
KHLOW2008
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi myhonda353,

First you need to verify if it is fuelor spraks that is missing.

Pull out a plug wire and attach a spark plug. Ask someone to crank the engine while you hold the plug grounded to the engine and check if spark is available.

If yes, then check if fuel pressure is present at the fuel rail. Test if the fuel pump works for 2 seconds when ignition switch is turned on. If fuel pump does not work, check the PGM-FI relay for power output when ignition is turned yto ON.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
MARKLAC
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Replaced fuel pump, coil, distributor cap, rotor, IMC. No spark, engine turns over. Timing belt intact.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
KHLOW2008
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi MarkLac,

Is there power supply to distributor black/yellow wire?

With new coil and ICM, the distributor should spark if there is power supply.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
JHON PAUL YOGG
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I was driving down the Parkway and had a really bad oil leak. I tried to make it home, but the car just stopped running. A couple lights came on, the oil light and the battery light in the light that tells you all the doors are open. it will crank over but it just will not start up.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
KHLOW2008
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi JHON,

Check out the link below on how to go about diagnosing what could be wrong or missing causing the non-starting. We would only be able to assist after knowing what is missing.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Sep 28, 2020 at 4:49 PM (Merged)
Avatar
ILUVMYHONDA99
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a 99 Honda Accord, 156,000 miles (approx.), Automatic, 4-Cylinder V-Tech Engine. It is not making any strange sounds or leaking anywhere that we have found. I recently took it to a Honda Dealer and had the EGR Valve replaced and a tune-up done (about 2 or 3 months ago). They told me that everything looked good except that I needed to have the transmission fluid changed and a new timing belt. It was fine until about three weeks ago when it decided to not start when it gets hot. I can start it perfectly fine in the AM (after it has set all night) and drive it for an hour without any problems. Sometimes I can get right back in and drive again, other times it dies when I put it in gear, but as soon as I shut it off, it won't start back up. Sometimes it will take 15-30 minutes to restart, other times it takes up to 2 hours??? It turns over but acts like it isn't getting any gas, as when I push the gas pedal it doesn't seem to do anything. The engine light is not on either. Everyone I know has a different opinion of what it could be but the mechanics say they can't find anything. One person says a coil could be bad, another says it could be spark plugs (which are brand new). I get stranded everywhere I go when it is hot out because it seems to exacerbate the problem. I am completely cluelss. If anyone could lead me in some sort of direction to try and find the problem, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:50 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BRUCE HUNT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 3,754 POSTS
Get yourself stranded at home. Set it up so that it will not start at your home. Then when it is refusing to start determine whether it is spark related or fuel related. Pull a plug and check the spark on the plug. Got any spark?
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:50 PM (Merged)
Avatar
99HONDA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
[quote:2ddffb93dc="iluvmyhonda99"]I have a 99 Honda Accord, 156,000 miles (approx.), Automatic, 4-Cylinder V-Tech Engine. It is not making any strange sounds or leaking anywhere that we have found. I recently took it to a Honda Dealer and had the EGR Valve replaced and a tune-up done (about 2 or 3 months ago). They told me that everything looked good except that I needed to have the transmission fluid changed and a new timing belt. It was fine until about three weeks ago when it decided to not start when it gets hot. I can start it perfectly fine in the AM (after it has set all night) and drive it for an hour without any problems. Sometimes I can get right back in and drive again, other times it dies when I put it in gear, but as soon as I shut it off, it won't start back up. Sometimes it will take 15-30 minutes to restart, other times it takes up to 2 hours??? It turns over but acts like it isn't getting any gas, as when I push the gas pedal it doesn't seem to do anything. The engine light is not on either. Everyone I know has a different opinion of what it could be but the mechanics say they can't find anything. One person says a coil could be bad, another says it could be spark plugs (which are brand new). I get stranded everywhere I go when it is hot out because it seems to exacerbate the problem. I am completely cluelss. If anyone could lead me in some sort of direction to try and find the problem, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks.[/quote:2ddffb93dc]

hi there,

I have same problem and I changed the coil ,module inside distributor but my 99 honda wont start when its hot and now I found out it is the main relay under the dashboard on driver side I took it out ,with a flat screw driver pop the cover out off the main relay check under a magnify glass or microscope you gonna see a crack between the solder joint and now if you have a soldering iron you can reflow it or go to honda dealer get yourself a new relay after you did it. drive your car when the weather s hot.stop ,park your car in a safe area turn it off, restart it .if the main relay it will start back on.I hope this will help.
sorn regards
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:50 PM (Merged)
Avatar
HRJ77
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
My elderly (80's) parents have a 1999 Honda Accord LX (4cyl) with automatic transmission, approx 105,000 miles. They called me because it wouldn't start. The engine turns over great, but just doesn't fire. I went over and checked the usual things (gas & spark). It didn't seem to be getting gas so I replaced the fuel pump (that was fun..) but still didn't start. I then changed the rotor, distributor cap & the plugs. I also checked and changed the fuses but that didn't help either. When I test to see if there is spark there is none. So the engine doesn't seem to be getting spark or gas. What am I missing??? Is there a computer control module that would be controlling these things that I man need to change?? I look forward to your input!!!!
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:50 PM (Merged)
Avatar
KHLOW2008
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi HRJ77,

There is an ECM to control the starting and running of the engine but it seldom is the problem.

First you need to isolate if it is mechanical, electrical or fuel that is causing the problem.

Remove the distributor cap and crank the engine, if the rotor turns, we can skip mechanical.

Before checking any electricals, check if there are any blown fuses both under dash and hood.

Check for power supply to distributor Black/Yellow wire with ignition switch on. If there is, pull 1 plug wire out and insert a plug to its end and ground it on the engine, NEVER groud it to the battery terminals.

Crank the engine and if you see blue sparks it is ok, reddish or yellow sparks means the coils is bad.

If no sparks, the ICM is faulty.

Test for power supply to fuel pump at initial ignition switch turned on, (2 seconds only) and while cranking. If none, the main relay is faulty.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:50 PM (Merged)
Avatar
HRJ77
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Hello KHLow 2008!

Wow, thank you so much for the detailed troubleshooting path to follow!!

I eliminated the mechanical as the rotor turns and I have checked all the fuses and they are good.

I am wondering how to check power supply to the distributor black/yellow wire & fuel pump? (Voltmeter? If so can you give me a few more details. I have used a voltmeter a couple times, but am not that proficient with it.

I tried pulling one of the spark plug wires and putting another spark plug in it to see if it received spark but I couldn't see any.

I have tried to listen and see if the fuel pump engages when the ignition is turned on, but I don't hear anything. I obviously need to follow your instruction and test the power to the both the distributor and fuel pump, but would greatly appreciate a little more instruction.
Thanks Again!! HRJ77
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:50 PM (Merged)
Avatar
KHLOW2008
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi HRJ77,

You are welcomed.

So far so good, we are going in the correct direction.

No sparks at plug means the distributor is not providng any, hope you did ground the plug while cranking.

To check for power supply to distributor, unplug the coupler and connect the Black/Yellow wire to a voltmeter or a test lamp to ground and turn ignition switch on. Battery voltage should be present/test lamp lights up means power is available.


If no power supply, you need to check for broken wires, blown fuses, bad or disconnected wire connectors.


We settle this first.
Sep 28, 2020 at 4:50 PM (Merged)