Shut off while driving and wont start

Clean out the idle air control valve and EGR valve then test the throttle position and mass air flow sensors to inlcude a fuel pressure check if its within specs.

do I get my 5 dollars back?

We have refunded your donation. We hope we can help you next time.

Thanks for the refund; I will refer people to your site.

I have a 95 Camry. I just put a battery in it. It has been making a knocking sound the past day. I checked the fluid levels and they are fine. This morning it stalled out while driving. I was also losing power while pressing the gas pedal. While driving home today I heard something that sounded like a hit then I coasted to a stop. I have power from the battery, the radio and electronics work. The engine wouldn't turn over. Any ideas?

Are you able to turn the motor over by hand? It sounds like either the engine locked up or a timing belt broke and cause interference within the cylinder head.

Engine problem
1995 Toyota Camry Front Wheel Drive Automatic 167000 miles
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder with 167000 Miles. It is starting fine, while I wait for signal, its engine sound changes and car turns off. Battery is fine, spark plugs, cables and distributor cap are new. Now i noticed that the RPM is higher than earlier (it was around 3000 for 65 MPH, now around 3500 for 65 MPH). Please help me,
thanks
Shaji

[quote:f81bc7cfea="sshajis"]Engine problem
1995 Toyota Camry Front Wheel Drive Automatic 167000 miles
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder with 167000 Miles. It is starting fine, while I wait for signal, its engine sound changes and car turns off. Battery is fine, spark plugs, cables and distributor cap are new. Now i noticed that the RPM is higher than earlier (it was around 3000 for 65 MPH, now around 3500 for 65 MPH). Please help me,
thanks
Shaji[/quote:f81bc7cfea]



Check and clean idle air control check for vacuum leak
Good luck

Engine Performance problem
1995 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 124.00 miles

my car its stalling and don't start after, it takes a while.

Hi there,

Start with a tune and make sure that they change the fuel filter, as this is hard to do and is often left out. Also have a scan done to check for any codes, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

Car seemed to hesitate intermittently while driving and then stalled at speed. No check engine lights displayed at all. Car would turn over but not start for 30 minutes. Towed to shop. Mechanics replaced cracked throttle body hose, air filter and PCV valve. They let it run and it quit after 90 minutes, sat for a bit then restarted then quit ... Mechanic said no spark at distributor, had ruled out fuel filter and pump somehow. The shop didn't say anything about ignitor or coil but jumped right to bad ECM. Help?!

the ecm is the last thing I would suggest. distributors are common failures for this

Roy

Thank you Roy. We broke down out of town so will return to our regular mechanic and go from there. Thought it sounded like it went worst case pretty quick.

good luck. there are a lot of guys that make conclusions based on nothing but a guess.

Roy

OK, so second mechanic looked it over, confident that it was not ECM. He did diagnose distributor problems and suggests replacing plugs, ignition wires, distributors, sensors ... and I can't remember the list as I'm away from my noted. Question ... is it usual to replace a number of things in this circumstance? Or is some of this maintenance as he said it would get the car running the way it should?

just tel them to replace the distributor first to be sure the car will run

Roy

car stalls when goes into reverse, sitting a stop sign have to keep giving it gas or it will stall.also will stall if you are driving and you give it too much gas.
have replaced fuel pump,head gasket,timing belt,throttle body valve and this still continues. no one can figure it out. any ideas?

Check the idle air control valve, airflow meter, throttle position sensor, PCV and EGR valves

OK, as in other stuff is maintenance and don't bother yet until rule out that distributor is problem? Not interested in doing maintenance until bigger problem is diagnosed and fixed. Given age and value of car won't take too many dollars to hit a different decision point.

Car ran today in the shop for 2 hours before quitting. Guy says that ECM is doing what it's supposed to do.

I have similar issue...My dealer told me that issue with EGR valve, Tomorrow i am going to replace

Follow up post ... Other mechanic tracked issue to ignition coil and ignition control module. Recommending to replace those to include distributor plus cap and rotor and plugs for good measure. Looking at $850 from local shop. Wish I was handier with cars.

Thanks again Roy for your help. Now have to decide when it makes sense to pull plug on 20 year old car ...

did replacing the egr valve fix the problem?

My 1995 camry 4 cyl 2.2L 250k has been stalling out after about 20 mins of driving (runs GREAT for those first 15 minutes or so!). Before it stalls, all lights dim, tachometer and speedometer drop to 0, radio turns off and car just stalls out. Required jump start to restart immediately. Left once overnight it started fine the next day w/o jumpstart. It stalled out today after 20 mins of driving in D position while idling at stoplight.

Water pump and timing done 5k ago, plugs, wires, rotor, air filter, & ignotion coil done about 8k ago. Alternator and Battery replaced after first stall (4 days ago). New battery terminals on day of last stall.

After car stalls all lights function but are dim. Starter clicks, but nothing happens. Tried starting in N, had no effect.

The on dash batt. light and taillight warning light come on as part of stalling, but turn off after car is already stalled out.

Here's the kicker. Whilst mid-stall, my radiator kicked on and the car didn't stall out and ran fine. That was the first time about 2 weeks ago.

I haven't been able to test the altenator/ battery output. I don't have the tools.

Hi there,

I feel as it is an electrical problem. you will have to have the alt and battery tested. check condition of battery terminal clamps, Pos &Earth clean and tight. Check same for chassis earths, check alt wires are tight. Code read for any problems , engine check light won't always come on with a fault code set. I feel that this is the best place to start looking.

Mark (mhpautos)

I gave up and sent it to the mechanic. There's only so much I can do. i have a 2 year old who runs around while I fix the car, and I don't like playing with the electrical system, I'm slightly scared of it especially with her around.

Thank you for giving me an idea of what the mechanic will tell me, I figured it was probably a short, but it didn't make sense for it to start without being jumped one time and require a jump another time. Then I realized the short might not be arcing all the time and may only make contact under certain circumstances.

If my mechanic tells me it's my flux capacitor, I may be back for more answers! :P Thank you bunches! - Shelley

it was leaking oil. i replaced timing belt and fuel injectors. it will start but stalls when i give it gas

Make sure timing is properly set. Check for vacuum leaks.

Check Fuel pump pressure. Have someone check fuel presure with a gauge hook up to the high pressure line. pressure should be 35-45 PSI. Climp fuel return line with a needle nose plier after the fuel regulator to see if pressure increase.

I have a 1995 I4 Camry that occasionally stalls out on acceleration. This is an intermittent problem - It seems happen about once every week or two. If I'm at a dead stop and step on the gas, the RPMs will drop and the car will die. If I'm moving I don't seem to have any problems. It also has problems starting sometimes... If I give it some gas it will usually start, but usually stalls afterward.

The car has been tuned up recently (oil change, plugs/wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve). The check engine light is not on. I checked some of the sensors (TPS, MAP, etc) using a vacuum pump and a multimeter, but they seem to be working fine. I would think it would throw an engine code if there was an issue with a sensor, but I could be wrong... Aside from this issue the car seems to be running great - It normally runs pretty smooth and I am not getting poor fuel economy.

I'm just about out of ideas now... Maybe something with fuel delivery? Any help you can provide is appreciated. Thank you.

Hi there,

i would check that the cold start injector is working correctly, this maybe your hard start issue, also check the TPI is not out of calibration start here.

mark (mhpautos)

My son's 1995 Camry (v6) has been stalling off and on for the past month. We recently had it towed to a "mechanic" in the area. After much diagnosics, they claim the codes were saying it was the crankshaft sensor and the cam sensor. After replacing those items, they said the problem continued, and NOW, the car won't even start. They are claiming their computer shows nothing wrong with the car. They are a reputable chain and have had the car for 5 days. Any suggestions????

[quote:cdc3586aae="veugs2"]My son's 1995 Camry (v6) has been stalling off and on for the past month. We recently had it towed to a "mechanic" in the area. After much diagnosics, they claim the codes were saying it was the crankshaft sensor and the cam sensor. After replacing those items, they said the problem continued, and NOW, the car won't even start. They are claiming their computer shows nothing wrong with the car. They are a reputable chain and have had the car for 5 days. Any suggestions????[/quote:cdc3586aae]

Welcome to 2carpros

On some toyota's if you don't have spark-you won't get fuel-I assume that there's no spark coming from the ignition system.

Did they check for power at the coil positive terminal brown and red wire. If the computer don't get an Ne and G signal it will not tell the ignitor to fire the coil. Ignition fuse is it good.

I recently bought a 1995 Toyota camery it My car Turns off when I am at a stop I have to restart when I come to stop
Slight shaking before the car shuts off we bought it used and are trying to figure out what we can do to fix it, our other car was recently stolen so this car means everything to us we have to find a way to fix it any help would be greatly appreciated we are desperate for help

Seems the idling speed is too low. Try cleaning the throttle body and IAC

Would I have to worry about the transmission at all :-(

If it shifts correctly without any noticeable problem, there is nothing to worry about.

I have a 95 Camry with about 157,000 miles. When driving on the highway, the car is fine. My problem occurs when I'm idling, stop and go, or going in reverse slowly.
When I'm in Park, Neutral, or Drive (mostly in Drive), my engine sounds like its going to die and actually does die. My RPM shakes between 0 and 1, until it dies. I have to shift in neutral and rev my engine to at least 1 rpm. When I'm in reverse (lets say like when I'm parking) my engine dies almost automatically because its reving low.

What could be my problem?

your check engine light its off?

if so,start with a good tune-up (spark plugs, air filter and gas filter) you have a single coil on each spark plug, you dont have wires or distribuitor cap.... but check the resistance on each coil and see if are similar.

(i have a 95 toyota Camry)

let us know what`s going on

My car dies after driving about 2 miles. It won't start right away but can be started about 8 hours later without any yellow signal on the dashboard panel. Then it will die again after driving about 2 miles.

What ever the problem is, you need to find out what is missing when it fails to start. Nobody can help you without knowing what is wrong.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check the above link for an idea how to go about.