Shut off while driving and wont start

Get a helper to crank engine over-remove the distributor cap and look at the rotor if its turning while being crank over. If so check for fuel and spark then comeback with some results

It sounds like your power steering pump has probably locked up, or is not getting enough fluid to move freely, the clear liquid is probably power steering fluid.

I have recently put a head gasket on the car, replaced the EGR, and it just wants to stall when put in gear if you have the AC on

Clean the idle air control valve and test the throttle position sensor

I have cleaned the IAC and changed the TPS, though I havent tested either to see if they are working right

Have the valve clearances checked/adjusted. Insufficient clearances would cause idling problems.

You should be cleaning the inside of the throttle body in addition the the IAC.
First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system. You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

I have cleaned the throttle plate, tending to think the IAC is just gone bad. Doesn't idle up any when AC is switched on

After driving the car for about 15-30 min. the engine will die when you brake to stop or make a turn.

I changed the plugs, but the problem did not go away. It's like it's not idling fast enough after the engine get to normal operating temperature.

The check engine light is not on when the engine dies.

There also seems to be a miss when the engine is running.

Hello –

To better assist you can you give me the exact model of your vehicle. Is it a 2 door coupe or a 4 door sedan or a wagon. Also, is it a DX, LE, SE, or XLE. Last your engine size in liter

While cleanng the IAC, ensure the valve moves freely. They can get stuck and some cleaning and WD-40 would help to loosen the valve.

It is a 1995 camry LE 4 door sedan 4 cylinder 2200

Have taken the electronic magnet part of the circuit off and turned the valve by hand while it was running and it idles up, so I am figuring its bad

Hello - Well, just a couple of things.............. Do you know how to check the codes for your car? Next, it sounds like it may be your Idle Air Control Valve....IAC. I have attached some checks for you to try. An IAC (idle air control) motor is designed to adjust the engine idle RPM speed by opening and closing an air bypass passage inside the throttle body. The car computer or ECM (electronic control module) receives information from various sensors and will output signals to adjust the IAC motor in or out to adjust engine idle speed by controlling engine idle air. An IAC motor can fail one of two ways, either the motor short circuits and stops working or the motor will develop high resistance and cause the IAC control motor to react slowly, either failure will cause the engine to stall at idle. When a trouble code scan is performed it sometimes won't always detect a failed or weak IAC motor. To check the IAC motor remove the unit, with the wires connected turn the key to the "on" position without starting the engine, the IAC should move in or out. If the IAC motor does nothing it has probably failed, replace it with a new unit and recheck system. note: while the IAC motor is removed clean (use aerosol carburetor cleaner) the passages the IAC uses to control idle air speed More Checks

I hope this fixed it, I was going to suggest a bad A/C pump or bad pulley bearings/clutch. Let me know if you got her fixed. I've had similar problems, and fixed it this way. Thanks!

2 weeks back when i came back from a shop, my car did not start (5s 4 cylinder xle model). Towed it. Realised that the car starts in the morning and can run for 5-10 minutes after which it dies. My battery is new. Temperator control sensor is new, Alternator is working good. New spark plugs and spark plug wiring. Had clearned (spraying carb cleaner) iac and throttle. Fuses (engine compartment) checked and found good. No fault codes. (connected terminals te1 and e1 but no flashing lights in instrument panel). I am planning to check EGR, fuel pressure, fuel filter next. Please let me know what else should i do. Thanks

I would be checking that when if fails that you still have spark and fuel pump operation, check these first.

Is it possible to have no spark after 10 minutes. For the first 10 minutes the car runs smooth like new.

Yes it is, sensors can shut down when they heat up (if faulty) then work when they cool down, not that uncommon to see this.

Our car runs great, but after a while shuts of for no reason. Then you have to let it sit for a while before it starts again. Sometimes it gets me half way to work and other times it doesn't even get me down the block. Sometimes when it shuts down and you get it started the transmission runs slow and you have to put it in second for it to go. Please help us.

Hi there,

first thing to do is have a scan done to check for any set fault codes, also check fuel pump is working when it shuts down.

mark (mhpautos)

My 1995 camry overheated, check engine light came on, lost all power and eventually dies. When I start it now, the car will idle but engine shakes and when I give gas, car dies.

You need to have the car's computer scanned for code/s-start here then get back with us

That would be a diagnostic, right?

Correct

My Toyota camry runs for about 20 minutes then idles down and dies.When depressing the gas pedal the engine stalls.

Will it start up again or do you have to let it cool down?

mhpautos

It will start but not easily and when i press the gas it stalls.

I would remove the ignition module and have it tested free at most autoparts stores. Also have fuel pressure checked with mechanical gauge.

The car will stall out in the middle of me driving and I will lose all engine power power steering and it is hard to push the brakes to stop.

try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner if it continues check fuel pressure with a gauge (rent it from an auto parts store.)

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Excessive stalling when car hot, especially when slowing at lights or turning. Will restart easily, however I am terrified someone will run into me, especially on turning. I have been to 5 Auto repair workshops plus 2 NRMA Roadside calls. NRMA states it is a intermittent electrical fault. Toyota dealer service dept had it for 10 days and could not fault it.
Problem still occuring. Kariong Auto fitted second hand distributor assembly, on collection it failed at the first set of lights.
The following things have been done by licenced mechanics:
Injector cleaner added to fuel.Various scanners connected showing no faults found at that particular time.
Fuel flow/pressure guage check - O.K. Car had been driven for 3 weeks and O.K., now stalling as bad as ever again.
The only previous repair to the above trouble was having the rear disc brakes replaced.
I beleive the ECM had been sent for testing and said to be O.K.
At 144.305klms the timing belt was replaced.HELP I am an aged lady pensioner on my own and due to health problems desperately need this car.

Hi elgo, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

No DTC"s popping up -Clean out the idle air control valve and the EGR valve and test these sensors TPS, MAP and MAF sensor

The check engine light comes on and the car stalls frequently, usually after running for a while. Used a jumper wire in the diagnostics module and repeatedly get a code 22, water temp sensor circuit failure. Toyota mechanic suggested birping radiator which I did but didn't help. The car will always crank back up after a few minutes. This is getting more and more frequent. When the CEL comes on I can sometimes keep it running by pumping the gas rapidly and the light goes back out but more often the engine dies.

Hi camryman10, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Lets clean out the idle air control control valve and also the EGR and PCV valves then test the throttle position sensor and airflow meter then comeback with some testing results we start here.

The only thing the coolant tempearture sensor will do if it goes bad will prevent the engine from going into closed loop meaning it'll be running rich at all times

PCV valve was replaced recently. I just tried to check EGR valve but couldn't get it off the car due to location of line bolt on bottom of unit and lack of proper tools. Going to Azone for help getting it off and to check tps.

I decided that I'm not going to try to fix this myself; it's just to much hassle. To me this is a case of it being worth it to pay a mechanic to save me the headache.

After talking to a local mechanic I decided to replace the water temp sensor anyway; for $15 it was worth a try. I haven't had a stall or CEL since. I have taken the the car on two extensive test drives, including stopping and switching the car off and on, which is when the problem usually occurs, and it's running fine. I'm crossing my fingers, but before sensor replacement it was stalling at least once or twice every hour of driving. Maybe it was the sensor after all.

i have a 95 toyota camry it spits and sputers and when it warms up it dies and will not start until it cools off. i tried the fuel filter and bumb and the spark pulges, wires, cap,rotora boten and coil. still having same trouble.

I'm very glad that its running and hope it stays that way the strange thing is the CTS is causing the problem-its job is like the carburetor choke it gives fuel during initial cold starts when it switches out of open loop the oxygen sensor takes command of the A/F mix. TY for coming back letting us know the fix.