no spark at spark plug?

Pull the coil wire from the distributor and ground it to the engine have helper crank engine over-Do you have spark-No spark test for power input to the coil, coil's primary and 2ndary winding resistances, distributor pick-up coil and ignitor.

This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

You're smelling fuel bcuz its not being burn-no combustion

No spark. Coil checked out ok.

how did you check the coil? are you getting a pulse to the coil?

[quote:ae8a3e1433="stevew84"]how did you check the coil? are you getting a pulse to the coil?[/quote:ae8a3e1433]

Checked readings. Did not check for pulse. How do you do that

What readings and how did you check readings? You check for power to one side of the coil keyon engine off(or running) and the other will be your ground side of the coil and you will get a ground cranking and running.

[quote:607fc2f557="stevew84"]What readings and how did you check readings? You check for power to one side of the coil keyon engine off(or running) and the other will be your ground side of the coil and you will get a ground cranking and running.[/quote:607fc2f557]

Ohm resistance; He took a voltage reading but not when cranked

No spark, has new coil, and igniter, Just quit running.
Has fuel pressure, all fuses are good.
Rotor is turning when engine is cranked over.
I dont know what to do.

Inspect and test the distributor pick-up coils resistances and short to ground. Check the fuel pressure if its within specs and also if the injectors are pulsing.

I changed the timing belt.After starting engine,all seem fine. The main bat wire on teh alternator was not tighten and came off for a second and hit shield over ex manifold. After that breif moment teh engine stopped and had no spark from then on.Eng cranks fine but has no spark. the check eng light is on and remains on during cranking.

[quote:dc82a62894="speedy64"]Electrical problem
1994 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 107556 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
I changed the timing belt.After starting engine,all seem fine. The main bat wire on teh alternator was not tighten and came off for a second and hit shield over ex manifold. After that breif moment teh engine stopped and had no spark from then on.Eng cranks fine but has no spark. the check eng light is on and remains on during cranking.[/quote:dc82a62894]


Hello !!

Start retieving the "codes" from the ECM here`s how:

https://www.2carpros.com/dia/index.htm

Let us Know which codes you get and we will start from there.

good Luck!
_________________

I lost spark, changed distributor, then coil. my friend changed the computer then ignighter. we still cannot get spark. the fuses we can see are all good. any tips

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

1994 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive

I have a 94 camry 4cyl, internal coil dist. It died suddenly while driving. I will give you several things I've checked and hopefully you can make sense of it all. Primary coil resistance was .8 and secondary resistance was 11.3. Both sides of the coil are hot when the ignition is on. Pickup coil resistance between terminal G+ & G- was 210, between Ne+ & Ne- was 419. I also Checked the fuse under the dash and both sides were hot. I checked the primary circuit(the connector with two connections) coming into the distributor with a LED test light, one side is hot all the time and the other side flashed when the engine was cranked the first time, then I checked the same thing and I got no flash when the engine was cranked. I don't know how to test the igniter or where it is located. I was able to pull two codes, they were 12 and 14. Thats all I got, Hope you can help.

Update: Since my last post I've replaced the igniter, got signal to the distributor and car would still not fire. I replaced the distributor today and the car started for a few seconds and died. Checked for signal from the igniter again and now I don't have any signal from the igniter to the distributor(same problem that lead me to replace the igniter in the first place). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Toyotatech, thanks for your replie earlier.

Hi John- All of your ohm readings are within spec except primary coil resistance, which they want to see between .36 and .65 ohms. Its out, but not open. Code 12 is for "no cam or crank signal to ECM" and 14 is for "no IGF to ECM". The ECM tells the igniter to fire with an "IGT" signal. When the coil field collapses the igniter sends confirmation to the ECM via "IGF" signal, so it may still be good. The igniter is located in the air box area with a 4 or 6 wire connector. Your blinking LED test light is verification that the signal from the igniter to the distributor is occurring. Check the distributor shaft- make sure its tight and maintains an even air gap. If the epoxy "window" on the coil is still clear, check for deep unusual cracking. There is a condensor in the the distributor housing. I don't know how to test it, but if it looks like it got hot and bubbled out the top, it is no good and may be your only problem.

Electrical problem
1994 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 1994 Toyota Camry. 2.2l. It overheated on me one day and I got that fixed and drove it later that night. The next day I went to start it and it wouldn't start. When i try to start it, it sounds like it wants to but it dont. I recently had a new fuel pump put on it. My uncle said there is no spark. He said it was the Electronic ignition module. What do you think it might be. It turns over it just wont start.

Hi there,

often it is the igniter, or the coil/distributor all will have to be electronically tested, this is a job best suited to a mechanic, you may get lucky if you drop in a good second hands distributor.

mark (mhpautos)

Washed the engine 2 weeks ago and it hasnt started since,have pulled all connections apart and dried them have checked all fuses and removed dist cap and plug leads and blown them all out please advise

Hi paul murdoch,

Is there any current supply to the distributor?

Are there any sparks from the distributor?

Is fuel pressure present during cranking?

1994 Toyota Camry 102K miles 4 cyl Auto Trans. Currently won't start, no spark.

Problem Started months ago by car just dying while on road at 35mph. Would restart after a while.

Think fuel we replaced filter. Seems to have plenty coming out while cranking.

Change cap and rotor, plugs and wires look OK. Still no spark. Check Ign coil got proper ohm reading across pos & neg also OK across pos and high volt terminal..also swapped coil for new one, same results, no spark.

Pulled distributor and checked ohm reading of pick up coils per book both in spec. Also read coils while turning distributor shaft and when lobe passes coil ohm reading is interupted. Appears that is the way it should work, would be the sending signal I guess. Also checked air gap OK

Placed jumper across pins on data connector and got signal 12 flash on eng lite in car wich would be No NE Signal to ECM, yet coils read out OK and during distribuor turning we get interupted ohm reading?

Also got good voltage reading at ECM, can't remember which pins and also good voltage reading at Igniter.

Could distributor housing still be bad even with good pickup coil (NE & G) readings? Or ECM even though we are getting 12 error code?

This is a self repair as we cannot afford to just replace all parts as they are all expensive and dealer repair is more than car is worth.

We sent in a donation to help you guys out.

Have the spark plugs been checked. For me, if all else fails, verify with your own two eyes if the spark is present.

This deviced allows you to visually see your engine supplying a spark.

As far as it not starting, does the engine crank? Write back and let's if we can nail this problem.

[quote:cc96b826f1="Stumped_Again"]1994 Toyota Camry 102K miles 4 cyl Auto Trans. Currently won't start, no spark.

Problem Started months ago by car just dying while on road at 35mph. Would restart after a while.

Think fuel we replaced filter. Seems to have plenty coming out while cranking.

Change cap and rotor, plugs and wires look OK. Still no spark. Check Ign coil got proper ohm reading across pos & neg also OK across pos and high volt terminal..also swapped coil for new one, same results, no spark.

Pulled distributor and checked ohm reading of pick up coils per book both in spec. Also read coils while turning distributor shaft and when lobe passes coil ohm reading is interupted. Appears that is the way it should work, would be the sending signal I guess. Also checked air gap OK

Placed jumper across pins on data connector and got signal 12 flash on eng lite in car wich would be No NE Signal to ECM, yet coils read out OK and during distribuor turning we get interupted ohm reading?

Also got good voltage reading at ECM, can't remember which pins and also good voltage reading at Igniter.

Could distributor housing still be bad even with good pickup coil (NE & G) readings? Or ECM even though we are getting 12 error code?

This is a self repair as we cannot afford to just replace all parts as they are all expensive and dealer repair is more than car is worth.

We sent in a donation to help you guys out.[/quote:cc96b826f1]

If the computer don't give the ignitor the Igt signal it will not fire,also if the ignitor don't give the computer the Igf signal which is the spark confirmation-the computer won't know combustion has taken place-we stop here and check the ignitor,ECM.

Do you have power at the positive terminal coil, when key is in On position?

Here's some more about Ne and G signal:

We have power at pos terminal of coil. We also have correct voltage at connector of igniter per manual.

Also have correct voltage at connector on ECM.

Not sure how to further check igniter other than buying new one and swaping out.

What further chacks can be done on ECM?

You stated "Here's some more about Ne and G signal?"

[quote:9844d555a7="Stumped_Again"]We have power at pos terminal of coil. We also have correct voltage at connector of igniter per manual.

Also have correct voltage at connector on ECM.

Not sure how to further check igniter other than buying new one and swaping out.

What further chacks can be done on ECM?

You stated "Here's some more about Ne and G signal?"[/quote:9844d555a7]

The Ne and G signals-the ECM has to see these signals in order for it to issue an igt signal to fire the ignitor and the ignitor in turn gives the ECM the igf signal that combustion has occur and the process repeats all over.

Ne/G1-2/Igt/Igf are all at the ECM try checking it all.Or swap the ignitor.BTW do you hear the injector clicking while engine being crank over.

My daugther has a 1994 4-cylinger Camry - Car won't start - we changed the battery cables, distributor coil, ignition module - still no spark, we towed it to a shop for diagnostic test, they said we needed a distributer and neutral safety switch - would the nss keep the car from starting, and would it keep the coil and distributor from conducting a spark? How can I tell if the distributors bad? :(

[quote:a107d797c1="mmalone"]My daugther has a 1994 4-cylinger Camry - Car won't start - we changed the battery cables, distributor coil, ignition module - still no spark, we towed it to a shop for diagnostic test, they said we needed a distributer and neutral safety switch - would the nss keep the car from starting, and would it keep the coil and distributor from conducting a spark? How can I tell if the distributors bad? :([/quote:a107d797c1]

Do you have power at the positive terminal of the coil-check your ignition and EFI fuse

The NSS has nothing to do with the ignition operation ( No Spark ) unless the engine refuses to turn over then we can blame the NSS.

1991 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, 2 L, 110,000
After I have driven the car for a while and turn off the engine the car will sometimes not start. Nothing happens. No starter turn. If I let the engine cool down or pour water on the Igniter the engine will turn over and start. Last night I came out of a restaurant and the car would not start. I had just replaced the igniter from one in the local junk yard. Luckily, I still had the old one still in the trunk. I swapped the igniters out and the car started right up! I went to Pep Boys to see what a new one costs. The counter tech said that the igniter is supposed to get hot while it is being used. I thought it was hot because of the high engine heat and hot summer weather. He said the igniter is costly ($50) and cannot be returned. He said I shoul make sure it is the bad part.

Have you guys heard of this problem before where the igniter would fail if it gets too hot? Any help would be great. Thanks. (Newbie to your forum.)

P.S. battery tests good

It may sound stupid but its not-where are you looking for spark at the sparkplug wire end or at the coil.

Again tell me if you have power at the coil-the shop might be right on a new distibutor-due to the crank angle sensor in it.

[quote:e622172acb="numbersguy58"]1991 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, 2 L, 110,000
After I have driven the car for a while and turn off the engine the car will sometimes not start. Nothing happens. No starter turn. If I let the engine cool down or pour water on the Igniter the engine will turn over and start. Last night I came out of a restaurant and the car would not start. I had just replaced the igniter from one in the local junk yard. Luckily, I still had the old one still in the trunk. I swapped the igniters out and the car started right up! I went to Pep Boys to see what a new one costs. The counter tech said that the igniter is supposed to get hot while it is being used. I thought it was hot because of the high engine heat and hot summer weather. He said the igniter is costly ($50) and cannot be returned. He said I shoul make sure it is the bad part.

Have you guys heard of this problem before where the igniter would fail if it gets too hot? Any help would be great. Thanks. (Newbie to your forum.)

P.S. battery tests good[/quote:e622172acb]

Yeap! been there before-the same goes in GM HEI Modules.

The ECM tells the ignitor to fire the coil at which time it surges to the spark plugs for combustion

So what do you recommend I do now? The "not starting when engine is too hot" happened again. I changed out the igniter but the engine still did not start - no click, no starter turn, nothing. Lights and radio worked fine though. While on the cell phone with AAA arranging a tow, I tried again (after about 20 minutes), engine started right up. When I got home I turned the engine off and then on again. The engine turned over like it was showroom new. I am so confused.

What else do I need to check? Is the starter itself bad? It is about 3 years old and was a rebuilt Bosch that I bought from Pep Boys.

Please help!



[quote:f120c2b90f="rasmataz"][quote:f120c2b90f="numbersguy58"]1991 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, 2 L, 110,000
After I have driven the car for a while and turn off the engine the car will sometimes not start. Nothing happens. No starter turn. If I let the engine cool down or pour water on the Igniter the engine will turn over and start. Last night I came out of a restaurant and the car would not start. I had just replaced the igniter from one in the local junk yard. Luckily, I still had the old one still in the trunk. I swapped the igniters out and the car started right up! I went to Pep Boys to see what a new one costs. The counter tech said that the igniter is supposed to get hot while it is being used. I thought it was hot because of the high engine heat and hot summer weather. He said the igniter is costly ($50) and cannot be returned. He said I shoul make sure it is the bad part.

Have you guys heard of this problem before where the igniter would fail if it gets too hot? Any help would be great. Thanks. (Newbie to your forum.)

P.S. battery tests good[/quote:f120c2b90f]

Yeap! been there before-the same goes in GM HEI Modules.

The ECM tells the ignitor to fire the coil at which time it surges to the spark plugs for combustion[/quote:f120c2b90f]

Posted at Sat Sep 01, 2007 4:44 am
By numbersguy58, New to the forum
Give Feedback | Votes: 0


So what do you recommend I do now? The "not starting when engine is too hot" happened again. I changed out the igniter but the engine still did not start - no click, no starter turn, nothing. Lights and radio worked fine though. While on the cell phone with AAA arranging a tow, I tried again (after about 20 minutes), engine started right up. When I got home I turned the engine off and then on again. The engine turned over like it was showroom new. I am so confused.

What else do I need to check? Is the starter itself bad? It is about 3 years old and was a rebuilt Bosch that I bought from Pep Boys.

Please help!


Start by checking all the fusible links in the power distribution box-could also be the ignition switch/NSS or clutch switch/starter relay.

You can get the starter to kick over if you short the battery terminal and solenoid at the starter-if it kicks over than backtrack to the starter relay/NSS/ignition switch.

It's the ignitor especially if this vehicle is equipped with a tachometer and the tach starts going hay wire when the problem occurs. $50 is nothing to repair cars these days.if it proves to be the problem you will save that money in one tow.

Good luck!

I just bought a car and it cranks but not getting spark or fuel. I changed the distributor and checked the fuses. what could it be?

Good morning,

Can you hear the fuel pump run with the key on?

Did you check and see if the timing belt is broken? If it is, you will have this issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-timing-belt-works

I would also do a compression test to verify the engine is not damaged internally.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Make sure all your fuses are good. Check with a test light for power on both sides with the key on.

Roy

My car is not getting spark from the coil to distributor. Replaced coil with the same result. I have checked and found power to the coil. It ran until I took off and cleaned the MAF sensor. After putting the air filter box back on it would not start. Cranks over fine but no fire. Have also checked all fuses and they are fine. Is it possible I have a loose wire? I have also considered it to be the distributor as I have heard the ignitor wont fire if bad. I have also replaced the ignitor. Any ideas where I go next

scan for codes and check to see if the duct work from MAF to engine is connected then check for wires disconnected.

Hello PGFASSBENDERPF,


I am sending you a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself, also I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning.
This is applicable even if your check engine light is not on.
Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

All the best,
,
Renee
Admin

Thanks for the quick responses, my Camry's not home by me now but will try this and let you know, plan on getting an early start on it tomorrow morning, and again thank you. Will update you tomorrow.

also, check fuses and relays under hood like the PGM and main relay if you have those.

Did check all fuses, and relays, all good, did not check the main relay though. Will also do that tomorrow, and again thank-you for your help.

Have fuel, but no spark Have changed the plugs, rotor and cap. My next guess is a coil or control module and sugustions?