Power steering not working

Good afternoon,

Unfortunately, you just caused a whole lot more issues with adding that stop leak. That stuff is no good at all and ruins the seals in the rack and the pump.

At this point, you need to replace the pump and the rack itself. The seals in the pump are most likely damaged as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-power-steering-pump

With the replacement rack, you will need new bolts for the tie rod ends. Fastenall will carry them for you as they are special. Take one of them with you to match up.

Once you get the new rack and pump installed, then have it aligned to be sure the front end is correct.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/power-steering-fluid-flush

Roy

Pump

REMOVE
1. Remove the battery ground cable from the ground stud on the shock tower. Then correctly isolate the ground cable by installing the cable isolator on the ground stud.

NOTE: The following step should be done to prevent excessive spilling of power steering fluid when the power steering fluid lines are removed from the power steering pump.

2. Using a siphon pump, remove as much power steering fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir.
3. Raise vehicle.


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4. Remove the power steering fluid supply hose from the supply fitting on the power steering pump.
5. Let power steering fluid drain from the power steering fluid reservoir and power steering pump.
6. Install a cap on the open nipple of the power steering fluid reservoir to prevent power steering fluid from spilling when removing the power steering pump.


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7. Remove the power steering fluid pressure hose from the pressure fitting on the power steering pump.
8. Let remaining power steering fluid drain from the power steering pump.
9. Remove the wiring harness connector from the power steering pressure switch located on the side of the power steering pump.


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10. Loosen the lock-nut on the front of the pulley for the serpentine drive belt tensioner.
11. Using the adjustment bolt remove the tension from the drive belt for the power steering pump.
12. Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump pulley.

NOTE: Access for the power steering pump mounting bolts is through the holes in the face of the power steering Pump pulley.

13. Remove the 3 bolts attaching the power steering pump to the power steering pump mounting bracket.


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14. Remove the power steering pump from the engine. The power steering pump and pulley are removed as an assembly from the engine. The power steering pump is removed from the bottom of the engine between the radiator lower support and the cradle.
15. Transfer the required parts from the removed power steering pump, to the replacement power steering pump.

INSTALL
1. Install the power steering pump back in the mounting bracket using the reverse sequence of its removal.
2. Loosely install all 3 bolts mounting the power steering pump to the mounting bracket.
3. Tighten the power steering pump mounting bolts to a torque of 28 Nm (260 inch lbs.).
4. Install the drive belt on the power steering pump pulley. Refer to Engine, for required installation and tensioning procedure for the particular engine being serviced.
5. Securely tighten the lock-nut on the pulley of the drive belt tensioner.
6. Install the wiring harness connector on the power steering pressure switch.
7. Install the power steering pressure hose on the pressure fitting of the power steering pump. Tighten the power steering fluid pressure hose fitting to a torque of 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the power steering fluid supply hose onto the supply fitting on power steering pump. When installing the hose clamp on the power steering fluid return hose be sure the clamp is installed past the upset bead on the nipple of the power steering fluid reservoir.
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Connect the battery ground cable onto the ground stud located on the strut tower.

CAUTION: Do not use automatic transmission fluid in this vehicles power steering system. Only use Mopar (R), Power Steering Fluid, or equivalent.

11. Fill the power steering pump reservoir to correct fluid level.
12. Start engine and turn steering wheel several times from stop to stop to bleed air from fluid in system. Stop engine, check fluid level, and inspect system for leaks. See Checking Fluid Level.

Rack

1. Remove the battery ground cable from the ground stud on the shock tower. Then correctly isolate the ground cable by installing the cable isolator on the ground stud.
2. Position the front tires of the vehicle so that they are facing straight ahead.
3. Raise the vehicle on a frame contact type hoist until the front tires of the vehicle are just off the floor.


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4. Remove caps from both wiper arms at the attachment to the pivots to expose the wiper arm attaching nut. Remove the nut attaching each wiper arm to its pivot
5. Remove the wiper arms from the pivots. Wiper arms are removed from the pivots by rocking them back and force on the pivots until they can be pulled off the pivots.


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6. Remove the wiper module cover and cowl cover from the vehicle.

Reinforcement Attachment To Vehicle
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7. Remove the 8 bolts, attaching the reinforcement to the strut towers and the 1 bolt attaching the wiper module to the reinforcement. Remove the reinforcement from the vehicle.

In-Line Resonator And Air Inlet Hose
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8. Remove the in-line resonator and inlet hose from the throttle body and air let hose coming from the lid of the air cleaner housing.

NOTE: When locking the steering wheel, the front tires of the vehicle are to be facing straight ahead.


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9. Using a steering wheel clamp, lock the steering wheel from rotating.

CAUTION: Before removing the steering column coupler from the intermediated steering shaft be sure the steering wheel is locked from rotating. If the steering wheel is allowed to rotate freely after it is disconnected from the intermediated shaft, the clockspring will be damaged and will need to be replaced.


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10. Remove the retaining pin and the coupler bolt from the steering column coupler. Separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering column coupler.


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11. Bend back the retaining tabs on the mounting plate for the tie rod to steering gear mounting bolts.

Tie Rod To Steering Gear Attaching Bolts
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12. Remove the bolts, mounting plate and washers attaching the tie rods to the steering gear. Lay the tie rods on top of the trans-axle bell housing.

NOTE: The following step should be done to prevent excessive spilling of power steering fluid when the power steering fluid lines are removed from the steering gear.

13. Using a siphon pump, remove as much power steering fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir.


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14. Remove the power steering fluid pressure hose and return hose from the steering gear.

Wiring Harness Connection To Solenoid
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15. If the steering gear being removed from the vehicle is a speed proportional steering gear, remove the wiring harness connector from the solenoid on the steering gear.

Master Cylinder To Vacuum Booster Mounting
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16. Remove the 2 nuts mounting the master cylinder to the vacuum booster.
17. Remove the master cylinder with the brake tubes connected, from the vacuum booster. Carefully position the master cylinder in an upright position on the left side valve cover of the engine.
18. Remove the vacuum supply hose to the vacuum booster at the check valve in the vacuum booster. Position the vacuum hose out of the way.

Steering Gear Attachment To Cross-member (Left Side)
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19. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the left side of the steering gear to the cross-member.


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20. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the steering gears right side mounting bracket to the cross-member.

Steering Gear Mounting Bracket
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NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the 2 mounting bolts attaching the right mounting bracket to the steering gear in order to clear the air conditioning lines.

21. Slide steering gear and intermediate shaft forward into the engine compartment to allow access to the roll pin retaining the intermediate shaft flex coupler to the steering gear shaft.

Steering Coupler Roll Pin Removal
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22. Using roll pin remover, Special Tool 6831A, remove roll pin from flex joint of intermediate shaft. Roll pin is removed from coupler using following procedure. Remove knurled nut from small end of removal tool. Insert small end of removal tool through center of roll pin and then install and hand tighten knurled nut. Position sleeve of removal tool on flex joint as shown. Holding threaded shaft of tool from turning tighten nut pulling roll pin out of flex joint.
23. Separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
24. Raise vehicle.
25. Remove the right front tire/wheel.

Tie Rod End Attachment To Strut
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26. Remove the nut attaching the tie rod end to the steering arm on the right strut.

Removing Outer Tie Rod From Steering Arm
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27. Remove the tie rod end from the steering arm of the strut using Puller, Special Tool C-3894-A, or equivalent.
28. Remove the tie rod from the vehicle.

Required Toe Position
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NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with a 2.7 liter engine, rotate the front of the left front tire/wheel as far outward as possible. This is necessary to have the required clearance to allow the removal of the steering gear from a vehicle with this engine application.

29. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle using the following steps.

Steering Gear Through Tie Rod Hole
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a. Slide the end of the steering gear through the tie rod hole in the right side inner fender. Steering gear needs to be slid through tie rod hole until about half of the steering gear is through the hole.

Steering Gear Positioned For Removal
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b. Lift the left end of the steering gear upward, with the steering gear positioned as shown, between the back of the engine and the front of the cowl.
c. To remove the steering gear from the vehicle, pull the steering gear toward the passenger side of the vehicle out from between the cowl and the engine.

Hi,

That is a bummer. I thought Lucas is good stuff. My ignorance.
So if the Steering Gear/Rack and Pinion unit was good, it's history now.
Okay, I got it.
What do you think of the outer tie rod end where I replaced the bushings and bolts? See image in original question.
Do you see what I mean about driver's side bolt looking crooked?
Although if I am replacing Rack and Pinion Assembly, it doesn't really matter, so.
Thanks!

The inner bushings look good but you did strip the hole in the rack.

While you are doing this repair, replace the outer tie rods at the tire. The one with the new bushings are the inner tie rods.

You are welcome.

always glad to help.

Roy

You're right. I meant inner.
Okay, I will replace both outer while I'm at it. Then front end alignment, as you said.

Correct.

Keep me updated.

Roy

I went online looking for re-manufactured rack and steering gear.
I did get the Mopar #. 5003933AA.
I have a couple questions.
I see some on Amazon and eBay.
But - some gears descriptions mention.
With Speed Proportional Steering or without. I don't know what I have and dealer parts has no idea.
Maybe I need to remove old gear and check #?
Also, some gears description mentions:
with sensor port?
And: without pressure switch mounted in pinion tower?
Are Sensor and Pressure Switch the same thing?

Can you give me the VIN number?

Roy

2C3HD46J6WH200470.

Okay, your car had the SBA steering gear code which is stock.

I attached the options for that rack from rock auto.

Roy

Okay,

I forgot about Rock Auto.So SBA is standard.I don't need to concern myself with
needing Speed Proportional Steering (SBC). I don't have that, correct?
Also I will change all hoses and replace reservoir.
And install an in line filter. Sound good?

I would install the in line filter, yes.

Good idea to change the hoses.

I really like rock auto.

All sounds good.

Roy

I see 2 assembles on Amazon. Both are "Detroit Axle" brand.
Free shipping.
1 is $124.95 and description lists:
No sensor and notes-
w/o pressure switch mounted in pinion tower.
Couldn't I use sensor from original?
The other costs $349.95 and is listed:
W/Sensor Port.
Plus it comes with 2 inner Tie rod ends.
That is quite a price difference.
I guess I need to find out if the cheaper unit w/o pressure switch, will work.
I will call Detroit Axle tomorrow.

Image of assembly.

Image of more expensive assembly.

Okay, do you have the sensor in your old unit? If you do, you need the one with the sensor mounting.

Roy

Will remove old unit because I do not know the answer to you question.

Okay, I would order the correct one when you have the old unit out and you can set them side by side.

Roy

Flying blind.
I thought both had sensor ports, but higher priced unit came with sensor. Okay, I will see tomorrow.

Keep me updated.

Roy

Hi Roy,
I am removing original R & P Gear.
I noticed a lot of power steering fluid around driver's side of gear.
I read that I need a tool (6831A), for roll pin removal on steering coupler.
This tool costs around $80.00 from Freedomracing.
I read that I can try a pin punch and hammer.
I see other roll pin removers out there but labeled as steering pivot pin remover, etc.
These are way cheaper.
Might these work?
Here are some images.

I see what others mean by the rubber boot going through firewall covering steering shaft as being in the way of accessing the roll pin.
So one should pull boot to interior to access roll pin.
What do you think?

I will remove steering column coupler as instructions stated, so I can access roll pin.

Sorry, was out today.

The first picture is a good one to use.

I just use a long punch with the correct size for the pin to drive it out and in.

Roy

Hi, update on R&P gear replacement.
I removed old gear successfully.
Was able to pull it out with steering coupler still attached.
Then I knocked out roll pin and detached steering coupler from shaft of old gear.
I tapped on steering coupler onto new gear and drove pin in place.
I then tried to install new gear with steering coupler attached, but could not get steering coupler back in thru rubber boot and firewall.
So I removed gear and knocked out pin.
I placed steering coupler into boot/firewall first, then placed
gear back in place, but I can't get shaft of gear into steering coupler.
You need to tap steering coupler onto shaft of gear and there is no room under steering wheel to do this.
Note I cut rubber boot. See image.
Maybe put grease on gear shaft to make it easier to install?

Yes, use WD 40 as a lube to get it to seat.

Roy

Hi Roy,

Sorry to drag this out. Appreciate the help. I placed new steering gear in. Drove roll pin in place.
Am replacing pressure and return hoses. I forgot to label ports on old gear. Which one is return and which is pressure?

I attached a picture for the locations of the pressure and return lines.

Roy

Did you respond?

I got an email but nothing came through.

Roy

Yes, I guess it did not go through.
I followed Haynes manual installation for centering gear, now I think it already was centered.
It had me turn gear shaft all the way one direction then all the way the other direction but count number of turns.
Divide by 2 then turn back by that result.
When I went to install tie rod to gear bolts, the spacer block fell off inside boot.
I can try to fish out with a wire?
Or use old spacer?
I have gear installed otherwise.
Greg

Try to get the part out. It will cause issues if you leave it in the boot.

Roy

Roy,

I did finish install of gear.
And had garage install reman pump.
Still no power steering.
What next?
Defective pump or gear?
Air in system?
Clogged power steering radiator?
Take to dealer?
This really sucks.

The next step is to check the pressure output from the pump at idle and at 1,200 RPM's.

You should have 600 pounds at idle and about 1,000 at 1,200 RPM's.

Roy

Okay, I will bleed system first. In driving car just now, steering is much better. I relied on word of mechanic who did not even do the work. Who stated that I had no power steering.
Not accurate. They did not flush or bleed system.
Thanks!

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

Hi,

Cannot post new question. I am not getting a Verification email to enable me to post.
Can you help me with the following?

Hi folks,

About 6 months ago, I replaced my rack and pinion steering and power steering pump and outer tie rod bushings (moog kit).
Now last night when I go to make a right turn it is very difficult and then halfway through the turn it suddenly
becomes easy.
I never replace the outer tie rod like I should have 6 months ago.
I will update this with some pictures tomorrow morning.
But in the meantime what do you thinking about it may be being the outer tie rods? Or?

Thanks in advance if you can help me I appreciate it!.

Okay, any part of the steering could be causing the issue.

It could be the tie rod end but you also have the ball joints as well that rotate when you turn.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/tie-rod-end-replacement

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-release-a-ball-joint

I would disconnect the tie rods and see if the steering works correctly. If it does then hook up one side and see if it ends. Do the same to the other side as well.

Roy

REMOVE
1. Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist.
2. Remove tire and wheel.

Tie Rod Adjustment Sleeve Pinch Bolt
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3. Loosen the pinch bolt at the outer to inner tie rod adjustment sleeve.

Tie Rod Nut
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4. Remove the outer tie rod to strut steering arm attaching nut.

Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Arm
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5. Remove the outer tie rod from the steering arm using Puller, Special Tool C-3894A, or equivalent.
6. Remove outer tie rod from adjustment sleeve.

INSTALL
1. Install the outer tie rod into the adjustment sleeve. Do not tighten the adjustment pinch bolt at this time.
2. Install the outer tie rod into the steering arm on front strut. Install tie rod to steering arm attaching nut. Tighten the attaching nut a torque of 37 Nm (27 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the wheel/tire.
4. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 Nm (95 ft. lbs.).
5. Lower vehicle.

Okay. I am waiting for above freezing temperature and I will check out like you said.
In the meantime.
What do think about the CV axle - I don't hear any of the following-
( snapping, clicking, popping)
Or
Wheel hub/bearing( humming, rumbling, grinding, growling, whining)
-being possible cause of hard to turn to right only - then changes to easy symptom, I described above.
Thanks

I doubt that is the issue. If it was, you would have many other symptoms.

Roy

Cool. So we are doubtful of both wheel hub/bearing or CV axle?
Then I will go with testing like you said!

No to all of them.

This is most likely going to be a rack issue or a steering issue.

Roy