Saturn sl2 transmission

So did all this happen since you replaced the transmission?Also what year and model was the donor car you got the transmission from?

they guy i got the transmission from siad it worked fine he siad he rove it for about 15 miles and had no issues and the done car was a 96 i believe but had the sane exact motor and i have so i dont know whats going on with it

Do you have any codes in the computer?

ys but have no way to tell what they are i also replaced the valve body out of my old trans thinking it was that but didnt effect anything

We need to know what those codes are so I know where to tell you where to go next.

ok ill see if i can get the parts store te tell me the codes and get back with you

Write them down I want the exact numbers.

ok i will

i have the codes and im not happy with them PO705 PO706 PO708 PO732 PO733 and PO734

If you have the wrong transmission in the car it will set a p0732 p0733 and P0734 what is the vin number on the transmission?

Is the selector switch on the transmission plugged in there should be three connectors plugged into it.

All 3 are connected including the ground wire and 2 plugs on the side of it

I'll have the vin when I get home in about 30 mins

Alright the other codes are selector switch codes that can cause some issues also.I wish you had a scan tool that can read what the selector switch says gear position verus what gear you have in.You could try adjusting the selector switch.Do you have a multi meter?

the vin on the transmission is 8UZ292859

There should be more to that vin I need the eigth digit of the vin

thats all that i saw and the motor is 9 digits as well

I was wrong I just looked that is all the digits they give you.I need the digit to the left of the 8.if that's a single cam engine transmissioni t will set all those gear codes.They different gear ratios.The computer will think the transmission is slipping.As far as the selector switch codes I would need to see what the selector switch reads on the scan tool.If any the gear positions read invalid instead of the gear you shift into.

No it's a DOHC motor

You need to address the selector switch codes like I said before you would have to have a scan tool to read what the scan tool.Says as you put in reverse drive park etc.To see if any of them reads invalid indicating you have a bad selector switch.Unless for some reason the selector switch got moved at some point when the transmission was put in.Do you have a multi meter that reads ohms?

The switch that on on my trans now is the one from my old transmission. The other one was broke and I know mine is good And yes I have a meter

Let's try adjusting it remove the ground wire from the ground tab on the switch.Make sure the brake is set.Then remove the shift cable from the selector switch arm.Then shift the transmission into drive.then put you meter on low ohms scale 200 ohms scale.Then just loosen the two 13mm bolts holding the switch on just enough to move it.Then measure across the two tabs side by side one is that single wire the that goes on the tab.You want to see a reading on that 200 ohm scale on your meter.Move the switch around to make that happen.I always adjust them so they read as close to zero on the meter as possible.Then tighten the switch up make sure the reading s are still good.Then hook everything back up.Clear the code and let me know how it drives.I wish you would have mentioned that you replace the switch with the one on your old transmission.I would have had you adjust the switch right off the bat.

ok i can do that but dont i need the shift cable on the put the transmission into drive???

You do it with shifter or your hand and I have used my hand many times.

oh ok so what if this doesnt work

Then your going to have to take it somewhere so they cans we what the scan tool reads when shifted into each gear.That's what I would be doing.I would be suspecting a bad selector switch and would be checking that after the adjustment.

ok just one more thing im also have a wining/ grinding noise around that area and i think its the differential pin coming loose cause that why i had to replace the last one and if thats the case ill buy a rebuilt trans

Those dif pins usually break not come loose the ones I have seen.When does the noise occur?are you sure you don't have a bad wheel bearing?

i dont hear it until i get up to speed but i could be mistaking but what a bad midshaft? my last transmission had a fist sized hole in the bell housing from the pin coming out

The pins break then the shaft that holds the spider gears into the diff comes out and breaks the transmission case.What mid shaft?you have a input shaft and output shaft in the transmission.Also while noise is happening if you turn to the right or left does the noise get louder or quieter or go away?

i have 2 axles ans a mid-shaft that goes into the trans i know how to check it just take the speed sensor out and look down into the hole
im just so mad right now iv been trying to get the on the road for 8 months and dont know what to do

Yeah on the passenger side I haven't seen them make noise.So does the noise change when turning left or right?

it changes a little when turning right

Then you could have a bad wheel bearing.

ok ill check everything tomorrow and det back with you

it seems to be working at the moment but will see how long it lasts

So after you adjusted the selector switch and cleared the codes it shifts good now?

no they came back and still doesnt work

Then your gonna have to see what a scan tool tool reads in each gear you shift the shifter into.

how do i do that