air conditioning not working correctly?

Good afternoon,

This sounds like the system is low on charge this video and guides will wil you fix the problem.

https://youtu.be/uZrQCGwXfek

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Please run down these guides and report back.

Roy

It doesn’t make sense that the rear vents would be blowing cold and the fronts warm.

Yes, it does. The rear has its own expansion valve and the front has its own as well.

I need the gauge readings to help

Roy

I have seen a lot of people suggesting valve door actuators. Can you please point me in the right direction on what gauges to buy/borrow and how to take the high and low side reading?

You can rent a set of gauges at a parts store or buy a cheap pair at Harbor Freight.

There are ports on the AC lines to attach. You cannot mess up on installing on the ports.

Run the engine with the AC on and tell me the readings on the red gauge and the blue gauge.

Roy

I also recharged it with one of those cans form auto parts store and no dice.

Okay. I will check in again tomorrow night. Thank you.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

Okay. I have zero pressure in low side. I never heard the compressor or condenser kick on. Whichever is supposed to.

I charged it with one of those A/C pro cans and now I’m reading about 29 on the low side. After a minute or two it is dropping to 25.

That means you had no freon in the system.

You have a leak and you need to find the leak in order for it to work properly.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Roy

I think I found the stupid leak. Looking through the grill, I found this in the top right corner of condenser.

Yep, that's the leak.

Replace the condenser and the dryer and evacuate and recharge.

Roy

Thank you so much!

Replaced condenser and dryer. Pressure is reading about 45 after recharging it with a r134a can and it still isn’t very cold.

Do I need to evacuate the lines first?

How much did you add?

Did you replace the dryer? That is required.

How long did you evacuate the system?

Roy

I added a 12 ounce can then another maybe 4-6 ounces. I did replace the dryer too. I did not evacuate but it seems to be blowing colder now. At least cold enough that my wife isn’t complaining. :)

What does evacuation do?

Boils all the moisture out of the system. If you have moisture, it will not produce enough cold air.

Roy

A/C is blowing cold everywhere other than passenger side of vehicle. same when you run heat most of the time it blows warm but other times cold only. Have changed the drivers side blend door and cannot locate passenger side. any help is appreciated, wife is complaining!

Good afternoon,

The actuator for the passenger side is on top of the heater case. I attached a diagram, picture and procedure for you.

The air bag module on top of the dash has to be removed to access the actuator.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

You can get the actuator at any parts store.

Roy

Thank you, I did find it and replaced it. Problem I’m having now is this blend door/damper on the far right side of the vehicle behind the glove compartment is randomly moving on its own, it’s going open and shut for no reason. I attached a picture any idea what would cause this?

Okay, try this:

Remove the fuse for the HVAC system. Wait about 5 minutes. Then install it.

Then turn the key on and do not touch anything. The HVAC module should be cycling the actuators to get them in the correct position for operation. After 2 minutes, start the car and turn on the AC and see if the system is working normally.

Roy

I have dual electric climate control. The drivers side blows hot when the A/C is on. I have tried to reset the actuator by pulling fuses etc. looking for the location of the actuator. Is there one on the drivers side? Have electric moving pedals also.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

There are two. One for the left (driver) and one for the right. I attached twp pictures below, labeled them 'L' and 'R', and highlighted the actuator.

Here is a list of all of the components indicated on the pictures:

1 - Mode Actuator
2 - Air Temperature Actuator - Right
3 - Recirculation Actuator
4 - Air Temperature Sensor - Lower Right (CJ2)
5 - Air Temperature Actuator - Left
6 - Blower Motor Control Module
7 - Blower Motor
8 - Air Temperature Sensor - Lower Left (CJ2)


____________________

Here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

The one for the drivers side, what’s the easiest way to access it? Does the panel on the side of the console come off?

Welcome back:

See picture 1 for either automatic or manual temperature control. See picture 2 for insulator removal.

Let me know if that helps.

Take care,
Joe

Joe,
Thanks so much. I’ve been reading several different posts on the subject. I was thinking the actuator was located on the drivers side.

Welcome back:

You are very welcome. It's funny to say, but you are thinking like a rational person. Why would the manufacturer do something that makes sense. LOL

Listen, if you need anything, let me know.

Take care,
Joe

Just tried to turn the AC on.
Compressor won't kick in. Checked all fuses/relays. All good. I do get a flashing green light on the AC control switch. In reading the manual this is supposed to happen when the outside air temp is too cool for the AC to come on.
Is their a problem with the dash mounted sensor?
thanks for your help.
Bob

have a pro scan for codes first it may be the control head. it could also be low on Freon or the a/c relay underhood may not work.

Hi, I have a 2007 GMC Yukon & teh rear AC blows hot on all speeds & on Cold. The front AC is in working order. My husband is pretty mechanical & we were looking to see where the AC runs from the front to the back. We check the fuses & they are all in working order. He seems to think that the door that opens/moves from heat to cold may be stuck. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Karla
[email protected]

Hello,

These cars had a problem with the rear blend door actuator which controls the temperature. Here is a guide and a diagram (BELOW) that will show you hoe to get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

I have had problems with my a/c ever since I purchased it new in 2006. Had 2 new compressors put on, now am being told it is going out again. Had fans, etc replaced. Been in shop 4 times with same problem, blowing hot air. It is not being fixed, so what is the problem and can it be fixed???Who do I complain to as the dealer that sold it to me is now out of business and I am having to go 60 miles from home to a GM dealer.....

as i don't know your warranty that you have you can still call GM about this. go to the gm.com site and go under customer service. As there is a history of this the first time it was repaired, if the compressor went bad and put junk in the system the first guy didin't back flush it like it should have been to get all the crap out. that is probalby why the compressors keep/kept going bad. GM may give you a hand with this as it s' a relativy new vehicle. I'd have to believe the orfice/filter is plugged as well..

All A/C vents are blowing cold air, except the two vents on the left and right side of the driver which blows hot air. There are times that all vents will start up cold, and then eventually the same two vents will become hot. What is wrong with it? Please help..

Welcome to 2CarPros.

It sounds like there is problem with what is called the blend air door actuator (aka air temp actuator). Here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Let me know if that helps.

Take care,
Joe

I watched the YouTube videos about changing the door actuator.
I first disconnected the wire harness on the actuator, but it is still doing the same thing, randomly cold or warm on both side's, but the compressor is always freezing,

so it does not seem to be the actuator, because it is doing the same randomness being unplugged. Do you guys have any ideas?
Thanks very much.

when you replace an actuator you need to pull the fuse on HVAC inside truck to reset the actuators. See picture:

Thank you.
I hear your point, I will try that. but I do not think so, because if I disconnect the wiring from the actuator then it should stay either always warm or always cold,
but it is still random, like something else is triggering the randomness.
thank you again.

if any ideas I would be very thankful.