Obd II port

Picture attached.

The opening for the throttle is facing away from the firewall and not up. Is that just the placement of the picture?

Yes, just for reference.

Roy

Yeah, it is sandwiched between throttle body and firewall. Kind of hard to get to or get a tool to take it off. Any ideas and does it need to be cleaned or is the throttle plate and walls enough?

Throttle body definitely needs to be cleaned. The IAC should be removed and the passages cleaned out. You cannot clean the idle air control valve.

Roy

Yes, I meant the passages and not the part itself. Thank you so much. Roy!

You are welcome.

Roy

Hey Roy, I put a new upper radiator hose on and a new clamp from the parts store but it is not original from factory. I will order one later because they are $7.00 for a clamp from the dealer. Anyway the screw type clamp I have seems to keep coming loose a little, is that just how they are and should I use two clamps ?

No, use the spring style clamp and torque it to 80 inch lbs.

If you use 2 worm style, you may damage the hose. Be careful how much you tighten it.

Roy

Spring clamp from the dealer like the OEM? I do not have one of those.

Correct.

By the way, I have been requested by the Admin to ask you to start a new question.

We have gone way off the original question and this got very long.

We can continue on the new question.

Roy

Okay. How do we start the new question platform?
As for the spring clamp from the OEM do not they just clamp down tight when you release the pinch tabs with pliers after installing it on the hose?

They need to be torqued to 80 inch lbs.

The problem with tightening them is everybody tightens different. Some too loose and some too tight.

Roy

Well, I will have to order an OEM clamp from the dealer or get one online. I had tightened the worm style clamp I have for now with a flat head screwdriver instead of using a nut driver. It should be nice and snug without being pinched now that I used the nut driver to tighten it. Also, should I not push the hose passed the little notch on the radiator fitting when clamping? Because I have it resting slightly above it. Please let me know, thank you Roy.

Yes, put it past it. It is a safety so the hose will not slip off.

Roy

Okay, thank you Roy!

Hey Roy, if I am just checking my spark plugs do I have to use anti-seize on the threads putting them back in or is that just when you are replacing with new spark plugs? Let me know. Thanks so much.

No, do not add anything to the threads at all. Just install and torque to 28 lbs.

Roy

Oh wow, so not even when replacing with new ones to preventing seizing threads in the cylinder? Also, my car calls for copper plugs, should I just use that and not put a higher grade plug since sometimes it may make the engine run funny? Let me know Roy, thanks buddy.
Michael

Use the OEM plugs. It will perform the best with them.

Roy

That is what I figured. Also, do not use anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs?

As I stated before, yes. Do not or never use that for plugs.

Roy

Oh okay, did not know that. So they will not seize in the screw holes right?

No, they will be fine.

Roy

Thanks Roy. Hey I believe the torque specs are 15-21 ft lbs for my car according to what Ken said in an earlier email. Can we double check because you mentioned 28 ft lbs. In your recent email. Thank you Roy.

Alldata shows 24 lbs.

That is interesting. Thanks anyway Roy.

Hey Roy, I changed my plugs and they looked pretty eroded. Two were about .050 which is factory range and two were way wide about .060 or more so that was my gas mileage and performance dropping answered. Also, I just did a 3 to 9 clock or 1/2 turn once they were threaded by hand instead of using the torque wrench, should be good huh? Seems to run a lot better. Should I change the wires as well?