No start, no spark, no fuel pump activation?

Okay, if the coil is getting hot and not firing, that means current is flowing through the coil, that's why it's getting hot. And in most cases when a coil is getting super-hot, I will find that the control wire is shorted to ground, I see this happen a lot with 2 wire coils where the ECM doesn't have the ability to shut down the coil to protect the ECM in case of a fault.
When the coil is not firing, check with your test light if the control wire from the ECM is on constantly, in the below diagram the highlighted blue-ish wire I marked is the wire that runs from the coil through the transistor to ground. But for current to flow that transistor has to be either active from a voltage signal from the ECM or its starting to fail inside and shorting itself internally allowing current to flow through the coil to ground.

Thanks for the picture of the 6-pin connector, I see the wires are not in the same location as the diagram. The diagram shows the Yellow/Purple wire is supposed to be the wire the ECM will send out a voltage pulse to the Base of the control transistor. So, with an LED test light hooked to ground it should flash as the ECM signals to the transistor's Base, I tried to show as best as possible on the diagram below.
Using an LED test light is the best way to test ECM circuits because they are such low current devices.

When i switch on the vehicle what should the pins on the ECU test.

I found a pin that was corroded inside the ecu bridged it as it seems to go from one side of the ecu to the flipside from there i found a transistor (i believe) t751on the pc board ) replaced it with another(not exactly the same ) from the security module i removed earlier. Got pulse to injectors but no spark. So i took an led indicator light lying around hooked it up on the distributor wiring (positive of the led to the loom brown and yellow and negative of the led to the plug side )hoping to stop return current and it worked got spark seems week but the car started briefly after i had to bridge the starter solenoid to turn the engine as the starter no longer seems to activate with ignition now heres my next question how does the starter get power to activate.

And also my tacho pics up when i turn the distributor.

So you have injector pulse and spark now but no crank from the ign switch now?

The easiest thing to check first is the transmission range switch, check if there is continuity through the switch in Park or Neutral. The OEM diagram is different again from the aftermarket one with the starter circuit. I'll post it for you, but with the Ign Switch in Start you should have power going right through the Range Switch.

Here is the OEM Starter diagram, Range switch location and its connector wire colors. So, it should have power on the Black/Blue wire while cranking and power coming back out on the black/red wire to the Starter.

Thank you. My car is a manual and in the main fuse box where the plug of starter is there is a purple (violet) wire i assume comes from ECU can it be that the ECU is not activating the start.

And another thing my timing seems to be. Behind just before it wants to start it's like it kicks back the pistons and my distributor adjustment is all the way forward. Haven't got it running long enough to hook up a timing lamp yet. My thought is that it's using the wrong pulse for spark since there is 2 sensors.

Oh okay, well here's the starter circuit for a manual transmission, almost exactly the same except there's a clutch switch in place of the range switch, what do you mean it kicks back the pistons?
The picture of the distributor shows that it has a notch type on the bottom where it looks like it only goes in one way, (what I've marked in the 2nd diagram below) is that what you have? And what was the reason for adjusting the dist fully advanced? Is that the only way the rotor would line up with the number 1 cylinder at top dead center?

Yes the distributor only goes in one way, but you can advance and retard by using the slide mounts on the distributor casing. Mine is fully adjusted in direction of engine rotation and still seems too quick. and when it sparks it's like it is still like i need to turn it more in order to be closer to DTC now it is like it's way too early.

Yes the distributor only goes in one way but you can advance and retard by using the slide mounts on the distributor casing. Mine is fully adjusted In direction of engine rotation and still seems too quick. and when it sparks its like it is still like i need to turn it more in order to be closer to dtc now it is like its way too early.

What values should i get on the vio wire in what conditions?

You're referring to the violet wire that is after the ST SIGN Fuse 10Amp? That going to be a 12volt signal from the ignition switch threw the clutch switch to the PCM, indicating a Start condition to the PCM.
How are you determining the spark is too advanced of TDC? You're not going to be able to determine the spark timing exactly without seeing it on a scope with reference to TDC.
While cranking spark is going to occur 6-8* degrees BTDC. The spark events are happening way too fast to see by eye. Are you sure your cam/crank timing is correct? You're kind of all over the place here. If the engine won't crank now, what did you do before that fault started happening?
Here's the specs on ignition timing, but you have to deal with one issue at a time here.
I've added the specs on the gap for the crank sensor also, along with the Distributor testing to check the pick up coils inside the distributor.
With the starter issue you are going to have to check for power at the locations on the wiring diagram, beginning with the switch on the clutch pedal, make sure power is making it in and out of the switch, if it is then move on to the starter motor. Adding random transistors to the PCM can cause more problems than it's going to solve. Run through the distributor testing and make sure you're getting the 1 and 4 pulses per rotation it should be. Turn the distributor back from its overly advanced position, it shouldn't be that far forward to begin with.

Thank you for your reply i will test and check found a company that repair these ecu s will have it repaired and take it from there you have been a lot of help. Keep up the great work.

AL514 is one of our best! Let us know how it goes.

Hi, it's me again. My ECU is toast and unrepairable i got my hand on a power mods mfi v 1 and the 2 looms. How can i hook this up to my Mazda bp1.8 dohc? can i use my distributor (6 pi. Plug and 3 pin plug)?

I'm not sure using a computer that the part number is unknown, is going to work. It's impossible to guess where the wiring goes, it will only end up damaging other computers or electronic components. This company FlagShip One (fs1inc.com) has a 1995 Mazda Protege 1.8L ECM that comes preprogrammed to VIN and is plug and play. Theres just not enough accurate service info to go by to wire this up, it needs to be an ECM programmed to the correct VIN that has the correct wiring to the distributor. I don't even have enough correct information to provide the right wiring diagrams.

Thank you i have downloaded the ECU pamphlet or leaflet but since you guys were so helpful and descriptive i thought it might be the safest option to ask.

Yeah it's difficult to impossible without the exact service information, or wires get hooked up incorrectly and more damage happens.