engine is not running?

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

also try resetting security system this guide will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

Hi thank you for your response as I was trying to figure out how to reset the security system i found a shorted fuse in engine compartment. Sensor (3) 15 amp.I am able to start the car but shut it down because of a loud tapping sound. Can't tell if it's coming from cylinder head or pistons but it don't sound good at all.As far as i can tell the sound is closest to cylinder #1 or #3. have the following codes each is listed twice PO223, P2106 and PO365. It never made any tapping sound before and it's so loud i shut the engine down. This model has two camshaft sensors exhaust and intake. The throttle position sensor or throttle control actuator ?

the first codeand 2106 may be related it may have one of the things wrong in pic or you have a cam problem like timing chain and noise so have that looked at it may have jumped time. the 365 may be from same thing or the gas pedal/ or throttle body are bad. try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner it may fix it but will still show until it is erased with a scanner. with the compression on #2 it's not with in 20% so it may have a bent valve especially if timing chain/belt jumped or slipped.

Wow Thank You Very Much I will check throttle body and clean. I will have the timing looked at along with camshaft and intake/exhaust valves.
Thanks

Update. I cleaned the throttle body and had a mechanic look at the car. We retested compression cold start and 160 on all four cylinders since replacing blown fuse. Mechanic suspects the variable valve timing could be causing the noise racket and suggested replacing the VVT Solenoid or Hyundai calls it a actuator. I'm going to test the one on intake side for resistance. If out of range i will go ahead and replace it. I can only pray that the timing didn't get messed up and have to realign everything and valve adjustment. Pulled valve cover off and looked at one V.V.T solenoid/actuator.It had some gunk but not bad. Screens looked good. Tested Camshaft sensor bank 1 and 2 voltage from computer. Close to 12 V but battery is getting low again right at 12 volts 11.95. Is it possible to test camshaft sensor T.P.S sensor/actuator with ignition on engine not running ? Was able to identify Pin # And wire color for both. Please help

I have some good news the super loud type writing noise stopped for now. I slowly pulled out of drive way to feel the noise vibration. My guts wee dragging on the road behind me but after going around the block they caught up.Went ahead and bought oil control valve solenoid or Engine Variable Valve Solenoid exhaust side.and was down to two codes po223 and p2106 after i worked on ETC actuator. and Throttle position sensor and installed the part. Now have codes 223 2106 365 2110 and 2119. Test the power to T P S #1 and #2 Have 4.0 5.0 volts and good signal too. I would greatly appreciate your help with correcting the no start from hell.

223 is a gas pedal code and you should have 4.9v not 5.0 365 is cam position sensor on bank 1 not solenoid.cause you have a 223 and 2106 codes this may be a bad ecm so check with dealer as I think Hyundai warranties until 100k the remaining codes poin to the same thing. besides emission stuff is automatically warrantied to 80k

Hey thank you for your time in helping us with the Santa Fe. We suspected it might be the Engine Control Module. All these codes. It has troubled from us from the first day when these intermittent no starts began there was no warning no Mil light, It came on only after replacing the battery. I had a mechanic look at it too. He also suspected the computer. I'm taking it back to the dealer tonight.

Hi I have no clue as to how and why but when it began our Santa Fe was running fine and showed no signs of trouble. What would cause intermittent no starts/no crank, replace battery, no start/no crank now with a check engine mil.We take it to Hyundai Service dept who tells me they could not properly diagnose the no start with engine not running, perform compression/leak down tests with active codes 223 445 2106. Tow the car home find a blown fuse related to one set of codes P0445. I'm able to start the engine but have a loud tapping noise. Recheck compression and have 160 psi on all four.Test drive the car noise goes away after driving 1 mile up to 65 mph. Park it have two codes 223 and 2106 .Next day start engine have hesitation in engine power and idle and a total of 11 codes. With the addition of the two codes mentioned my code reader showed 2009, 2110, 2119, and 365 twice. P2110 is also a code listed in a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 T.S.B that pertains to the ETC relearning set values.Take it back to dealer. Now we have active codes P0200A, P0222, P2106 and the Hyundai mechanic tells me they will need to replace the intake manifold and ETC body. How all of this came about but it's confusing to me why the check engine light did not come on from the moment the intermittent no start began ? Old battery had good voltage at cold start and alternator was charging. the starter wasn't acting up either. The blown relay fuse was a sensor fuse for Injectors #1 - #4, canister close valve, canister purge control solenoid valve, oil control valve 1/2 exhaust/intake and variable intake manifold valve #1/2 The 5 year 60 warranty has expired and we are the 3rd owners the only warranty that still applies to the car is the 8/80 federal that only covers PCM, Catalaytic converter and 0BD2 device. The California emissions 7/70 does not apply because car has 71.000. My question to you sir is this WTF happened here ? Is it possible to consider a computer malfunction because if there was a mechanical problem with air intake or the E T C why didn't ECM/PCM pick up on this ?

ecm's can't do everything a weak battery causes all kinds of problems have you reset security system since battery change? your canister purge valve was probably the reason the fuse blew as they take in a lot of dirt due to where they are located by the tank. I do not know what ahape your vehicle is in there is a tsb that deals with a knocking noise and to replace oil filter with genuine Hyundai filter. your noise may be something wrong with the engine which I can't hear. and intake may have cracked or large vacuum leak causing problem.

once my car was not able to start due to winter cold and may be oil got freezes as per the Hyundai technician. he tried to start many times but failed it cranks over and over but doesn't run?

This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angels sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

the guide helped me find out my fuel pump went out, thanks for he help this site rocks!

I have another question about my other vehicle. Its a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. Bought it in 2015 at 143,000km (88,856 miles) I'm the 2nd owner. It now has 204,000km (126,760 miles). Since day 1 I've had problems every now and then of it turning over but not starting. Replaced the ignition column which they say is common with these SUVs.
Still been having the same issue. They checked the keys and those are fine.I had the car just completely die on me and thankfully that was just an alternator a few years ago.
No codes on it and no other explanations from anyone. 
The mechanic says he needs to duplicate what is happening to see what the issue is.
Any advice?

Hi and thanks for using 2carpros.com

Cranking and not starting can be caused by several things. However, the idea that it is not showing any trouble codes leads me to believe it could be related to the crankshaft position sensor. The sensor is based on engine speed. Therefore, if the engine isn't running, it may not set a trouble code. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

The technician you mentioned is basically right. Without the symptom, it becomes a guessing game. However, as I said, this is my first suspect. Here is another link that discusses crank but no start conditions.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If you suspect the crankshaft position sensor is the problem, here are the specific directions for replacement.

Removal

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the battery negative (-) cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly .
3. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor connector (A).
4. Remove the installation bolt (B), and then vertically remove the sensor from the transaxle housing.


See Pic 1

Installation

CAUTION:
- Install the component with the specified torques.
- Note that internal damage may occur when the component is dropped. If the component has been dropped, inspect before installing.

CAUTION:
- Apply the engine oil to the O-ring.

CAUTION:
- Insert the sensor in the installation hole and be careful not to damage when installation.

1. Installation is reverse of removal.

Crankshaft position sensor installation bolt:
6.9 - 9.8 N.m (0.7 - 1.0 kgf.m, 5.1 - 7.2 lb-ft)

Picture 2 shows its location.

Let me know if this helps. Also, if you have other questions, feel free to ask.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you for your answer and being very descriptive and informative I truly do appreciate that very much. I've been having issues with this Santa Fe and I'm glad that you've given me another possibility other than the same' ol excuse or answer.

Thanks again

I just hope it helps. Let me know if you have other questions or need help.

Take care,
Joe

I will thanks. Its basically always a waiting game for it to happen again because its usually months in between incidents happening.

No problem. Regardless of how long it takes, I'll keep my eyes open for your response.

Take care,
Joe

Hi Joe,
I've got a 2010 Santa Fe that was cranking but not starting from time to time you mentioned the crankshaft position sensor. 
I haven't done anything yet and it has happened a few more times but eventually starts.
Since then I have (2 different times) I have turned the key and heard a click and nothing else. I checked the battery and its fine, radio, interior lights, dashboard all light up properly. The 1st time I kept trying and after a day and a half it started up like it was fine.
Today was the 2nd time and I've tried it a bunch of times and it hasn't started yet.
What are your thoughts?

Thanks

Chris

Chris:
That sounds like one of two things. First, corroded or loose battery terminals or the starter itself. Here is what I need you to do. First, check the battery terminals. Follow this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

If everything is good and you are sure the battery is good, then we need to check the starter. Follow this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

When checking the starter, you will check for power to the smaller wire on the starter to see if it gets power when the key is in the start position. You will need a helper to do this.

If it gets power and the main (larger) wire to the starter from the battery is good, replace the starter.

If you find the starter is the issue, here are the directions. The attached picture correlates with these directions. Make sure before starting to remove it that you disconnect the negative battery terminal so power can't get to the starter.

_____________________

REPAIR PROCEDURES
Removal

Starter
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the B terminal (B) on the solenoid (C), then disconnect the connector (D) from the S terminal (E).


Pic 1
3. Remove the 2 bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.

Tightening torque :
49.0 - 63.7N.m (5.0 - 6.5kgf.m, 36.2 - 47.0lb-ft)


4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
5. Connect the battery negative cable to the battery.

__________________________________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have questions.
Take care,
Joe

Thanks you so much for the advice I'll try it out and keep you posted. I've got a 7 month old so timing is everything, my wife usually keeps him occupied anyway.

Thanks

Chris

Welcome back:

Happy to help. Let me know what you find. Also, enjoy the 7 month old. It's hard to understand, but these are the best of times.

Take care,
Joe

Hey Joe,
I think it was a bit of corrosion right up under the battery terminals which is why I didn't see it. It wasn't a lot of corrosion but I guess that's all it took.I cleaned it up and it still wouldn't start last night.
I went out today and it started up without any problems. I'm guessing it still might've been a little wet.
I haven't driven it yet I just started it revved it up a bit and turned it off.
Hopefully everything is good and the problem is solved.
About my seven month old I understand what you mean, I'm thankful for every little growth and milestone I see. Its all happening so fast.
Thanks again for your help, it is greatly appreciated.

You are very welcome. Let me know if I can be of more help. And yes, mine are 19 and 23 and it seems like only minutes ago they were 7 months. Enjoy!

Take care,
Joe

When I stop and fill up with gas my Santa Fe will be very hard to crank. I have to push the gas pedal all the way down before it will crank. After it does crank I have to keep it running with my foot on the gas pedal because it want idle. After doing that about a minute it will idle and run fine. I have no other problems until I put gas in it again. I have tried filling it up until the gas pump clicks off and I dont put anymore gas in it. Also tried only putting half a tank full in it and it still did it. I know I'm not overfilling it. Put the gas cap back on and turn it until it clicks and then click it atleast 3 more times. Please give me some suggestions to check or replace. I have rebuit engines and worked on cars all my life so I do know a little about engines. Just not the newer stuff.

Problem in EVAP system most likely one way valve allowing gas to enter and flood engine

This would be the same as a check valve, correct? Is this located in or around the vapor canister and if I went to my local parts house, what would I ask for? Thanks you so much for the help.

Purge Control Solenoid Valve located on intake. Dealer item

I purchased my car new. On the first cold day, the car would not start. I had the car towed and when the car dealer looked at it several hours later it started right away. I drove the car for 2 weeks and then when it was cold again, the car would not start. The car was towed and the dealer did not look at it until the next day, when it started right up. I then drove it to the dealer where I bought it and they had it for 1 week and 1/2. It started every day for the first week. Then the next week, it did not start. They put a fuel gauge regulator in it and it registed 0. They changed the fuel pump. The car then worked for 3 weeks and on the next very cold day, it woudl not start. They now have told me they think it is the fuse box. Does this seem reasonable? The car has had issues with hesitation when it is cold out which leads me to believe it is fuel related.

Im sure you will be able to return the vehicle, take it back and ask for a new one if possible. if not possible ill help you go over what would cause it, but the car is relatively new and sounds likes its been in and out enough.

The fuse box was not it, the car still does not start. I have asked for a new one but they want to continue to try to repair. So they put a new PCM in and that fixed it! thanks for your help.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Ran great after using catalytic cleaner. parked it changed oil and disconnected battery to clear check engine light. tried to start no luck. added new coil pack, still no start. added new crank sensor, still no start. checked all fuses all good. checked gas level and fuel pump no start. checked battery good, no start. checked plugs for spark, no spark. please any suggestions?

Hi KATHIE,

When cranking it over have a helper put their hand over the tail pipe to see if any air is coming out and get back to me.

Best, Ken

Air pushing through tailpipe also checked all relay's under the hood with a multimeter

Hi KATHIE,

Here is a good guide on the engine not starting, you have done most of them but I think it can really help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Have you had the timing belt replaced recently, does it sound normal turning over?

Please let us know happens.

Best, Ken

Car sounds normal when trying to start will review site for something that I might have missed thank you

Hi Kathie,

Please disconnect all of the oxygen sensors and try starting it, my though is the cleaner melted the heater element inside one of the sensors and is shorting out the computer.

Please let us know happens.

Best, Ken

I had to replace ignition lock cylinder. when I bought it had been sitting a few months was told it was running before the key was lost. now it will crank but wont start. also replaced coils.