Is this normal for a crankshaft on a 1MZ-FE engine?

I'm not sure if I do have both only the lower one, the lower one has the adjusting bolt all the way up, there is one above that one it's 12mm but so far it won't budge, I don't understand how the pump was loose enough to take off the belt but now I can't put the replacement on?

The pump might move more if you can get the other bolt loosened up. Spray the bolt with some penetrating oil, no more broken bolts today. From the diagram it looks like access to the bolt might be through the pump pulley. It looks like it has 3 or 4 holes in it.

I sprayed it earlier with PB Blaster, I think I see it in the diagram.

Looks like I sprayed the wrong bolt, is the bolt I need to spray torqued at 52lbs, do I need a special belt tool to get at it?

While I'm asking, does the engine need to be at TDC to start for the timing to be synced for it to run smoothly?

Update on PS belt I was able to loosen the upper pivot bolt, btw how loose does the bolt need to be? Anyway even with the pump all the way forward I don't have enough slack on the belt to get it on the power steering pulley, I'm going to try putting the old belt back on, on the chance that it fits and I might have a replacement belt that's too small, barring that I'm just going to leave the power steering belt to test and see if it runs smooth.

Managed to get the old belt on, not sure why I couldn't get the new belt on, I guess I'll just leave the old one on until it needs replacing, started right up and running smooth, ran it for about 20 minutes no signs of coolant leak or overheating, still got some loose ends to tie up like torquing the balancer bolt, the lower engine mount and a few other bolts. Thanks for helping me get it going again. Next challenge is my A/C runs but it's not cold added refrigerant and the clutch is spinning so I'm stumped. I might have to take it to an A/C specialist.

They might have given you the incorrect power steering belt. And for the A/C, if the compressor is staying on and not cycling, the pressure is too low. When the A/C system gets a leak, it not only loses the refrigerant, but air and moisture get into the system. So, the system needs to have whatever refrigerant is in there evacuated and to find the leak. You can try dish soap and water in spray bottle, that's what I start with when looking for leaks. They will bubble up quick, even if the pressure is pretty low. Check the valves as well, the high- and low-pressure fill valves. They will leak eventually too. Once you find the leak, you'll know what needs to be replaced or what seal is bad. Spray around the compressor too, the front seals can leak on them. You should be able to find it pretty quickly. After you replace the leaking component, the system will need to be pulled into a vacuum for about 30min to get all the air and moisture out, and to see if it will hold. Then it needs to be refilled with an A/C machine with the exact amount of refrigerant. So, you'll have to take it somewhere for that part.

I was thinking that too, it may be just a tad too small, I think your onto something with the A/C, I wonder if this might help, the refill hose I use has a gauge on it, so I left it on the fill connector valve, with the A/C off it was past the green level, but when I turn on the A/C the gauge goes to low, is that a good sign there is a pressure leak? What about those refill kits they sell with dye for finding leaks and for sealing leaky seals, worth a shot?

There is definitely a leak. No, I wouldn't use any of those kits because the A/C system pressure runs too high. But I was asked for the A/C issue to be a new posted question if you needed more information. The Boss asked. So, I need to follow the rules.

Yes, I understand about the A/C, today I had a local mobile mechanic stop by and he pointed out the A/C line under the hood is cold, he thinks I don't have enough refrigerant in, but the gauge shows full, maybe the gauge is off, he also gave me a green light all on driving All I had to do was tighten up a few bolts. He said as long as the pump doesn't leak it should be fine, he also pointed out that the broken stud is in the block and all I would have to do to get it out take the bolts and nuts off the pump and take the broken stud out of the block with a vise grip, so that's what I need to do if it leaks. I drove it earlier about half a mile got it up to 55, with no issues, so it's looking good so far.

Okay, that's good. I was thinking the bolt on the water pump might have run straight into the block. Let's hope it does not leak at all.

Glad to say I've been driving it and no leaks, unfortunately the Chevy 454 7.4 L Vortac block with 95k original miles on my motor home I live in is having an issue that might be a blown head gasket or worse and I really need to deal with it before the next bad storm that may force us to evacuate. Check Engine light not on, can't run OBD2 says its either not connected or the ignition is not on, first thing thar comes to.mind is bad ECM? Bad Sensors? 1st noticeable symptom is white smoke from the manifold, no trace of sweet smell, I took video of it I'm trying to figure out how to share it (no smoke or sweet smell from rear exhaust, only droplets of water, (moisture in the fuel lines is common here, I add a bottle of HEAT and seams to keep it in check) 2nd is had a back fire 1x but started up rough, high idle to almost stall till it warms up than it revs high and than adjusts to close to normal idle. It hasn't had a tune up in years, there is a presence of oil on the engine cover spark plugs manifold side. No sign of coolant leak, I did the trick to take the coolant cap off before starting and as soon as I started it in less than a minute it overflowed bubbling, I understand that could be a sign of a blown head gasket. Any thoughts on what's going on and what I can do to prevent any potential further damage? Thanks

Yeah, if you want to start this as a new question that would be good. Since this is a different vehicle and engine. There are many great technicians here. Or you can address it to me, whatever you're comfortable doing. The no comms issue points to more of a wiring issue, depending on a couple different things. But yeah, the bubbling over radiator is combustion gases getting into the cooling system by some means. Sounds like a section of the ECM might be down, not powered up. Rodents love to chew on wires because of the insulation on them. I suppose if you post the link to the new question here, I could get to it right away. That might work, but I'll leave that up to you. There are plenty of great people working here.

I'll post it as a new question, yes I think you are onto something, I would prefer your help.