Ignition

Due to several different ways this may be wired up,

I would really like a good picture of the solenoid.

This is what I want you to do.

Follow the positive battery cable to the solenoid (solenoid looks like this, picture below)

Take a picture with your finger on the positive battery cable connection to the solenoid (whichever side it is on). This big connection will have other wires (rings) stacked against the positive battery cable.

(The other side of the solenoid's big connection will go to the starter, that cable will be all by itself).

Identifying which side is positive on the solenoid will be all I need to explain the procedure without messing anything up.

A good picture with your finger touching and far enough back so I can see the wires on the solenoid.

I will shoot you back a few pictures on how to do it.

The Medic

Both cables are black for whatever reason, but the one I am pointing to does not go to the starter.

Would help if I posted the picture, ha! The person he bought it from years ago was not much of an electrician.

Hard day today.

I have not abandoned you!

I just got home and hopefully just made these pictures so that a kindergartner can make them out. Took a little time to construct them.

Information in the beginning was vague, is this a 134 CID (2.2 L) F-Head engine?

If so, I have its predecessor a 1946 134 CID L-Head, in my Army Jeep, They are the same in some ways, differ in others. Cool thing is, they are so simple! Continue on, let me know where you may need help!

Pictures below

The Medic

Initial bumping will startle you! Haha, love the warning I am heading outside to try this out I will let you know!

I had to be gentle with my wording on here, normally my in house wording would have included "scare" and an equivalent to "poop"!

Even with my heads up, the first time will still get you!

I hope my diagrams are easy enough to understand.

I can stick with you until you are running and properly tuned up, just keep responding!

The Medic

I tried it out and unfortunately the started isn’t going the solenoid keeps making a popping sound over and over is it worth cleaning the brushes on the starter? This poor thing has defiantly seen better years

Here is where you got to get real thorough!

Let's remove the battery clamps and really shine them up on the inside.

Shine up the battery terminals.

Hook them back onto the battery.

Remove the cables from the clamps, shine them up too, where they meet. Hook the cables back on and insure that moving the cable to and fro is so tight that the copper sticking out the other end does not move.

Battery end is covered.

Move to the solenoid.

Remove the cables one at a time and shine them with a wire brush and the solenoid posts too. Reconnect and do the other side.

Now take the cable off of the starter, shine the cable and the post.

Give it a whirl!

No luck?

Remove the starter, have it tested at the parts store. It may be just fine!

Looking at your picture, the starter is for a inline six cylinder, either a 232 CID (3.8 L) or for a 258 (4.2 L), your information at the top of the post is inaccurate.

Should the starter be bad, a replacement is about $53.00, a re-manufactured one is just fine!

If the solenoid is bad, $15-$25 will replace it. When you have it off, clean the surface underneath it well, as it is ground is what it bolts down to.

Never give up on your Jeep! I say again. Never give up on your Jeep!

My 1946 Willys in the picture up above looked like this when I bought it for $100.00. Picture below.

Let's see a few pictures of yours!

The Medic

Oh no! You are right! I cannot edit the post either! I will take pictures of it this morning and post.

Here she is in all her glory! No worries I will not give up on my Jeep it means to much to my dad and I.

I save Jeep pictures in my computer.

I kind of like to see what pulls into the 2cargarage that I assist on!

Looks great! Back in the day that new paint job was an eye catcher and immediately boasted as to who it belonged to.

You going to freshen it back up?

Let me know if my last post suggestions got you any further along.

I will continue to aid you as long as you keep responding.

My '77 daily driver below

The Medic

I would love to keep the original paint job. I thought that the paint job was just someone who wanted to make it look like an M.A.S.H truck, ha. Who exactly would have owned it like this? I have tried finding some pictures of the paint job but seem to only find the same markings but not in this green color like mine. Also, my Jeep only has the star on the passenger side, not the driver side. Was the star a sticker that peeled off or is there a reason for it not being on the passenger side?
I have shinned everything except the bolt on the starter its extremely wobbly as if someone way over tightened it at one point and possibly broke it? Will try to get it to turn over again tomorrow I lost the daylight. Also, if we have to rebuild the engine we were thinking of throwing in a V8. What is your take on that? Have you done that?

Lets get a close up of the starter bolt in question, please attempt a front, side and rear picture of the bolt installed. Point with a pencil or your finger if the other one is in the picture too. I may be able to help you maybe make a field expedient repair.

I am pretty sure it was not a military model.

I am different than many Jeep guys. I like "improvements", I like the "mostly" original look.

I have helped on many CJs local to where I have lived. Many trying to be extreme with everything.

I myself have had seven Jeeps, I was allowed on the asphalt in 1981

Six were CJ5s between 1976- 1981. My first Jeep was a 1977 it had a 304 (V-8) the other five were 258 (inline sixes). I was rough on them in the beginning! I have not had any other type daily driver!

Presently, and ever since 1991 I have had the '77 CJ5 (258) and the 1946 (Willy's), Even though I have understood my Jeeps from the beginning, I now really try to baby them. From the past, I know what they can and cannot do, no need to test these out too!

304

Out accelerates an F-16 fighter jet (and anything else) as long as you are running up to and get into 2nd gear and your foot is through the floor. With the engine screaming and maybe 90 MPH, that's it, there is no more!

The quick jump off the line at the stop light is over and when you get into third, yes, it will continue to accelerate, but at a much slower rate than first and second gave you.

I always pulled it on down into third let off the gas then made that "You are not worth it or you are not got it face" to the F-16 and that "I dominated you" wave.

To fit a 304, there's a few mods to be done, even a stiffer front suspension.

A 304 takes up room, room to get in there and work on stuff.

A 304 is loud, forget normal radio volume and saying "What?" A thousand times to your passenger!

That is also two more plugs to buy at tune up time! More rebuild expense.

Personally, I feel that the six cylinder was and is the perfect match for a CJ!

Another secret- with manual steering and manual brakes, you just get used to them (never even think about them). Both power items are also two items that can never break in either of my Jeeps!

Your turn to defend your stand!

(Picture-look at how easy this stuff is to get to!)

The Medic

I am all about keeping the original paint and body but with new age parts underneath I kind of want to throw a diesel in it. I took the starter off to look at the brushes and there are a couple things that worry me.

I thought you had a starter mounting bolt problem?

The Medic

Not a mounting bolt and sorry I thought I posted it. Here you go:

Okay, it is the stud that feeds the fields.

This kind of issue is caused mostly from cranking the nut on too tight, and maybe some failure to "back hold" the stud (if possible while tightening)

If you do not mind tell me where or near where you are located (within 300 miles is close enough!)

By the looks of Mr. Starter he has had a long, maybe hard life.

I might be able to locate you a real deal on one (I know some tricks!) if your region is do-able. Maybe I can even find one with a lifetime warranty. I have never had a problem using the warranty's like this. I have suggested and politely forced a couple of them to check my pulse! I have book full of receipts and very seldom buy (re-buy) normal or expensive parts for my Jeep.

I found that a long time ago relying on the auto store to "keep" your warranties only lasts a few years (then they delete them). There is no doubt that you have one when you show up with the receipt (or a copy of it on non fading non-thermal paper) Going through my book on their counter also show them I am serious!

Not too long ago I replaced my alternator at a popular auto store with my lifer receipt from 1989!

Unless you have a local starter and alternator guy that works cheap, going through it yourself might be time consuming and you might miss things inside that may need more attention (bushings, bearings,etc).

Hence, the life-timer is just a quick swap down the road, with only a twenty minutes to take off and on put back on. Travel to and from the auto store will be the most time spent. You also get that warm fuzzy feeling inside!

Then it's back to Jeeping!

The Medic

I am in between San Francisco California, and Redding California. The bearing is loose.

A lot of information to take in!

Does the starter and the info with it go with your Jeep? Next link

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-starter-remanufactured-3207s/3070034-P?searchTerm=starters

I used a "Woodland, CA" zip code to find this "Car Quest" store at 320 Elm St. (near Sacramento) You may have a closer store, so change it to your store. (on the East coast- Car quest and Advance Auto Parts are sort of owned together, share inventory- I deal with both)

You will have to go to the Car Quest site

Select this starter (if it is correct) cart that puppy!

See if it is available at the store you select (buy online pick up in thirty minutes).

Or find another nearby store that has it in stock (all can be done on the site).

Or simply order it online and have it sent to you.

Sometimes you will see a promo code offered at the top of their page, it may be a good one!

I went through a good many trial and error code insertions as if I were purchasing this, The only one I found that worked was:

"K82" (sometimes the homework really pays off!)

15% off your order of $30+. $50 maximum savings (if you had a big order). Online Only

Either case above (pick up at store) (sent to you) This only works if you purchase online.

If you buy it outright at the store, it will be full price + Tax: (Take your old core with you!)

Regular Price $52.99
Core charge (refundable) +$15.00
Regular Price Plus Core $67.99

You are probably more computer oriented than me, if you have a problem just ask. I can make screenshots of what to do!

I am going to show you deals I have gotten in the past. The forms have changed a little, the codes here are expired, but you can see how this all works. A few pictures below.

The Medic

Thanks. I am picking up a starter tomorrow after work. I am super anxious to get it in so we can see if she will run.

That baby turns with the new starter. Time to bump start

I'm sitting in the garage, waiting to help with solutions!

The Medic

so disappointed. there is no spark. WHY!!??

Do you have a temporary jumper wire from the Positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil?

I have to camp out with the grand-monsters starting about 5PM, I'll be back hopefully early afternoon on Sunday.

I'm guessing you still have the points system in your distributor.

If we need to get into that we will when I return. It's not all that hard, you just got to understand it a little! Even the old points may work for now just to get spark to get you motivated.

Keep us posted

The Medic

When it was parked the distributor cap was brand new. That was well of 10 years ago! I found out the last time it was registered as a vehicle not one of those non op ones was in 94

And yes I have the tempory jumper wire connected correctly... I also purchased a new ignition cylinder. So i have keys now!! Jut reverse everything from when i didn't have keys?

Dumb question probably but does the choke need to be on for it to fire? ha

Although my pic is from my '77, you should get the idea! I try to make my pics simple, The seem to get all crammed and the colored stuff don't show up well. I try to put too much info in them.

Let's remove that temporary jumper we went from the battery to the coil with. If your new key switch is hooked up right we will be relying on it to power the coil.

So,

With the key "on", what is the voltage at the positive side of the coil?

Is there voltage at all?

I need to know this stuff!

The Medic

I’m not putting in a new ignition in until I find the old one my dad got ahold of it set it down and we can’t find it poor guy. Anyway I need it because I marked them according to how it goes on unless you can show me how ha

Look on top of driver's front tire
Under fuel tank nearest the center of the Jeep
Under driver's seat
Between the driver's seat and Jeep's side
On the rear fender wells

Months before my Dad passed on, my Mama told me that he had to have nerve testing done the next day at the hospital.

I told her it might save a lot of time and money if she could have the doctor check his "last nerve" first.

That was the one my Dad always said we were always "on" as the three of us kids were growing up.

I have been looking for a decent diagram for the switch, I figure if I cannot read them, you probably cannot either. I will keep looking, you keep looking for the switch too!

The Medic

So I put the ignition in I tried it got it wrong tried again and thank gosh I got it right the second time. It turns and the engine turns still no spark though. I will look for this switch in the morning.

No switch just this.

The coil reads 11.49.

I am guessing that was 11.49 with the key "on", the jumper disconnected.

Okay,

Lets take the distributor cap off and the rotor button off. There may or may not be a cover over the points (like a plate covering the whole bottom half of the inside of the distributor)

Take me a really good picture of your point system!

Below, my 1946 distributor (really basic)

1st Pic) Mine has a cover below the rotor button

2nd Pic) This is my point system prior to me upgrading to a drop in electronic ignition (we can explore that option after we get you running)

I'll be using your excellent pic to explain how we will mess with the points to get some positive results! Send pic soon!

The Medic

I thought I uploaded these yesterday my mistake! I couldn’t find a switch anywhere!!

Good pictures!

Everything looks new!

Take the rotor button off and one more straight down shot!

Switch?

One of these will not work?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&pageId=partTypeList&actionSrc=Form&searchTerm=ignition+switch

Your turn,

The Medic

Now what lol

Got something to work with now!

Notice you have a "hex" on your distributor shaft (hence, 6 cylinder) (mine has a square, 4 cylinder)

That hex's pointy parts lift the points up off of the anvil as the distributor rotates. When the points are closed, the points arm will be in one of the six flats.

Without putting your grubby little fingers in there and messing with nothing yet! Lol!

With the points closed and in the fully flat hex position

(Key Off, if you tension the belt with one hand, you may be able to move a pulley with the other hand and move the engine slightly to get it there)

Now that it is there, are the points fully closed, there is no teeny tiny gap at all? Do they touch fully? (no touchy the points yet!)

We'll worry about adjusting them correctly in a bit.

No choke needed to achieve spark!

Not yet! (sentence below) I have a test coming up after you respond with the point gap information.

We will be needing 12V to the positive side of the coil, the negative side of the coil will go to the distributor.

Fully closed or slightly open is the big question now.

You got me till about 11:30 PM EST

The Medic

Any helpful picture, lol.

Check this.

Do this.

Return with results

We will then proceed with checking spark (my way) and then to adjusting the point gap correctly.

Should you need to move the engine.
Key off.
Use a wrench as I show in the third picture.
If you need to move it more than a little bit, try to always move it in the direction it normally turns.

Your turn,

The Medic