Check engine light is on?

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

There are two for the coolant temperature sensor. I attached two pictures. First shows location, and the second the connector. THis guide can help find out why the check engine light is on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let me know if this is what you needed or if you have other questions. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Hi, my car is a 2001 Ford Taurus 93000 miles. The problem is that when the car is at a low rpm like at a stop the car vibrates. The check engine light is on and I already took it to get scanned. The code says that it is the egr insufficient flow (something like that).I already changed the egr valve, but vibration continues, and the check engine light went on again. I took it again to get scanned, again it said the egr valve. I was talking to a mechanic about it he said that it was probably one or several of the injectors. I already changed the plugs, wires, and egr valve. Thank you The code is P0401

is it possible that you can tell me the exact code? P****.

there are several EGR codes that have different solutions.

I'll try to get the exact code tomorrow since I take my cars to AutoZone when the check engine light is on. I didn't think to get it since they just told me that it was the EGR valve, and that was sufficient for me, but yea I'll get it ASAP. Thank You

Here it goes the code is P0401

check the egr vaccum line for proper vaccum first. Also check the mating surface of hte egr to the engine, is there a gasket there and was the old one cleaned off good first and is it bolted securly? also the pathway's may be plugged.

also the DPFE (differential pressure feedback ) may be bad if all else is good.

I have a 2001 Taurus with the 3.0 L duratec engine that has the check engine light on most of the time. When I start the car it is off, after a few seconds idling at a stop light the light will begin to flash and the car will run rough for about 2 minutes. The dealership said the fault shows #6 spark plug as faulty. When the light flashes, the car will idle rough, and I lose the air conditioning - fan still blows, but the air is no longer cool. Once the idle smooths out, the car seems fine - the light stays on, but it runs smootly. They replaced the spark plug, but it did not resolve the issue. They checked the plug wire, and said it was fine. They check the compression and they get roughly 100 lbs. They are suggesting either a bad valve or bad ring. The rough idle is not constant so it does not seem logical to me it could be either of those (rings or a valve). When I run down the highway i do not get the symptoms described above - only in city driving. The dealership tells me it will be $1450 check to get into the engine to find out what is wrong. Any ideas? Many advanced thanks!

I would lean more toward a bad coil pack than an internal engine problem, you said they checked the plug and the wire but have they made sure that it is firing when you are experiencing the problem? Bad valve or rings should show on a compression check, check the coil.

Thanks for the idea - I will give it a try!

When coming to a stop the car seems like it will die. The prms drop to below 1. When the car is idling is does the same. This happens while the a/s is on or off.

That could be a million and one things i would check all your hoses. Especially the the curved hose under the intake its a very common hose to basically just melt away

The check engine light on my 2001 Ford Taurus is on but if I turn the headlights on it goes off. It does not show any codes at the local auto parts store. Any ideas?

Check the charging voltage across the battery with the engine idling and no accessories on. It may be coming on for voltage too high.

I have the same problem with my 2002. How do I check the the charging voltage?

the light stays on mostly but sometimes it will go off for a couple day, then here is the symptom that causes it to come back on.
when idleing at a traffic light or in park for just less than a minute, the engine will begin idleing rough, but not what you would call severe and the engine light flashes. Upon accelaration, it moves with a bit of skipping, then at less than a 100 yds or so down the road it clears completely and the check light stops flashing. And there are times that is wont do this at all, but most times it does. I have found that if i place in nuetral, and accel the engine to around 1000 to 1100 rpm, the engine will not skip. But if it idles at normal, most times than not it will begin to rough idle. Thank you

You need to take it somewhere and have the codes checked. They will be stored in the memory, even if the light is not currently on. Do not buy any parts. Just post back the codes and we will go from there. There are several things that can cause this, but we need to be sure before we just start throwing parts at it--unneccessary time and expense. 8)
Dave

[quote="flexy5"]You need to take it somewhere and have the codes checked. They will be stored in the memory, even if the light is not currently on. Do not buy any parts. Just post back the codes and we will go from there. There are several things that can cause this, but we need to be sure before we just start throwing parts at it--unneccessary time and expense. 8)
Dave
weekend check gave P0305 #5

This is a cylinder misfire code. Cylinder 5 is missing intermittently. When it misses it is severe enough to cause the computer to calculate: "if the miss persists, it could cause catalytic converter damage, or engine damage." That's why the light flashes. If the light were to come on steady, that's when the computer says, "hey somethings wrong, but no big deal." You problem may be a miss due to an injector sticking. But before you go straight to that repair, how old are the plugs and wires? I would change those before I would change an injector. If you believe that it might be the injecor, while the engine is missing, place a flat screwdriver against the injector body and the other end on your ear. Listen for the injector pulse and compare it to another injector. Cylinder 5 is the middle cylinder on the front side of the engine. This test will tell you if the miss is caused by the injector or the ignition system. If you have anhy other questions, feel free to ask. Post back your findings, too.

We bought our daughter an '01 Taurus that was a rental prior and we have been nickle & dimed with repairs over the 4 years we've had it. Now the ! & check engine light is on, codes 1744 & 0741 come up. A trans. shop wants $500.00 to pull the trans. to see what's wrong. We did smell something burning over the summer that we thought might be a small oil leak but now realize it may have been the trans. Any suggestions would be much appreciated as to whether it's worth a costly repair. Each time we repair something on this car, we think that surely is it...NOT. Thank you so much for your help. Lori

Well, unfortunately your finding out the hard way, why people should'nt buy rental vehicles, after the rental company is through with them. Sadly, most of the cars are beaten on and unlike cars of the old days, can not live up to the abuse. I would take the car to a transmission shop specialist. They deal with them all day long, and are generally cheaper than dealers, and offer more of a warranty. If it is the transmission, ask about a used one, it could be cheaper than rebulding.

chk engine lite on for last month just today it started blinkin an went bk to solid,when i stop at times the car almost feels as losin power an it feels like its jumping

The Engine Computer detected a problem, set a diagnostic fault code, and turned the Check Engine light on to tell you. By ignoring it the problem became much more serious, hence the flashing light. That means stop the engine immediately because way too much unburned fuel is going into the exhaust system and will overheat the catalytic converter. That will turn expensive real fast. A loss of power will be accompanied by a loss of fuel mileage. Your mechanic will start by reading the codes. They will indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis.

okay other thing when got car I put in had all diagnostics done 2000.00 later al electrical was redone,brakes,calipers,etc...now I was also told possible my filter was dirty which may be causing.recently I had front end allighnment an tyrods replaced...all 4 tires are shot in process of replacing now someone also said that there could send car off..what are ur other possible thoughts...

Don't know what you're asking. You need to have the diagnostic fault codes read to find out why the Check Engine light is on. As for "jumping", that could be a misfire in the engine related to the Check engine light. It could be warped brake rotors causing a pulsing brake pedal. It could be an alignment problem related to bad tire wear. There could be a broken belt in a tire. Ford has way more problems with steering and suspension parts separating leading to loss of control and crashes than any other manufacturer. Those systems should be inspected at a tire and alignment shop at least once a year. Ford also builds a lot of their cars with no alignment adjustments for one of the critical angles. They don't care about tire wear after you buy the car. Your alignment mechanic will do the best he can but there is little he can do to solve tire wear problems.

Replaced all wires and plugs, code that popped up was a spark plug. no power but still runs. engine light blinks. the check engine light shuts off once in awhile, when it does, it gains its power.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Well, it sends like you might have a few more codes stored in your vehicles computer.When that happens it will put your car into"limp mode" thereby reducing the power. The first thing is to have the codes re-read. If you don't have access to a scanner/code reader most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing what is involved on how to retrieve codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

After this is performed get back to us with the code information and then we can properly diagnose.Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

2001 Ford Taurus SES- Engine light was coming on and off everytime I drove. I took it to STS after a week and they couldn't diagnose anything because no codes were coming up. They said there was probably just a computer problem and that i could still drive it. That's fine but I have to pass inspection in November and i don't think it'll pass with the light on. What should I do?? Any response is appreciated.

Using a scanner tool should able you to get the codes
if the light isn’t on PCM store troubled codes
and you can access it also using the scanner its under history codes
any shop should be able to help
if light is not on at the time of the inspection you should be able to pass

Engine problem
2001 Ford Taurus V6 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 130,00 miles
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The engine light came on in my car. At first it would just blink. Then I began to notice it would sputter like it wanted to stall at red lights. Upon checking we noticed that the vacuum line was bad. We replaced that. The light remained on so we changed all plugs and wires. The light was still on and was no longer blinking but continually lit. Soon the car began to feel like it was taking a very long time to shift gears. We had it looked at and several things were changed. It ran well for a short time later and then the problems began again. The transmission did not seam to be changing gears when it should. Eventually it would not go any faster than 25 mph. I took it in to another mechanic and they changed the fuel sending unit and a converter. I just got it back this morning and had a 40 minute drive to work. I had not even made it to work and the engine light started blinking again. I have not noticed anything in the running of the car yet, but the fact that the light came on the day I got it back disturbs me a bit.

There is probably a condition that existed prior to the converter going bad that indeed caused the converter to go bad. You have a multiple source problem that included the vacuum line. I would not hang the mechanic on this. You went 40 minutes problem free, I doubt the mechanic would heve spent that long test driving to verify.

You need to get the codes read asap to start with, the blinking light means damage is being done to the new converter.

I just got this car from a friend last week. Yesterday the check engine light came on. It rides pretty smooth but I noticed the car does idle a little high, also it feels like it sputters as I drive. I took it to get an oil change and the mechanic said it maybe my exhaust manifold and I should have my exhaust checked. I don't know very much about cars, so before I took it in to get looked at I wanted to have an idea of what it maybe.

That is such a wide field of possiblilities. Diagnosing a Check Engine light always starts by retreiving the codes from the computer. Each code has a separate procedure to begin testing and finding the source.

IT would be impossible to randomly guess at this, short of being very lucky. Make sure the shop you use is very capable of diagnosing this.

Just had my car in a body shop due to a car accident from behind. Check engine light came on. They checked it. Came up and said bank 2 is defective. Where is bank 2. Is it in front by the oil filter.

yes it is. the converters are serviced together and are pricy at about 400-800 depending on the brand.

Roy

The cat converter in front of engine by the oil filter. It is screwed onto the pipe. 2001 Ford taurus SES single overhead cam

thats correct. there are 2 converters there that are replaced together.
if it was a 420 or 430 code, most likelt that unit has to be replaced.

Roy

Yesterday the check engine light came on so I took it down to NAPA to have it diagnosed. The error codes came back as P0401 and P0402. Seeing how the codes mean "P0401-too little flow on the EGR system and P0402-excessive flow on the EGR system", I am confused about what to replace. I have replaced the EGR valve about 4000 miles ago and the EGR pressure sensor at the same time. Any help with a solution?

Hi
Most common cause for both codes at same time is vacuum leak, pluged hoses or pinched, cracked hose. see diagram make sure all hoses are good and flow.
Let me know
Thanks for donate

i have a 2001 taurus the code 1633 is on the scanner. i took it to a dealer after putting in a computer, they reset it but still the light is still on says low voltage to computer. please i need help.. thank you.