Not starting

Sounds like a plan.

Roy

Roy,

I got the OBD II reader from NAPA, only one stored code P0122=Throttle/Pedal position sensor/switch "A" circuit low.
And all the Live and I/M Readiness readings. Wrote them all down, what are you looking for?

When cranking the engine, does it show an RPM signal?

What is the voltage of the TPS or throttle position sensor?

Roy

200 to 210 RPM, the reader did not give a voltage, would a low voltage stop the truck from starting? And is that the voltage leading into or out of the TPS?

Is there a percentage reading on the TPS? There should be either a voltage reading or a percentage reading.

Roy

TP (%) 0.0 ignition on and start.

With the key on, push the pedal down to the floor and see if it goes up, both the voltage and the percent.

Roy

Did that, 0.0%.

Okay,

Go to the TPS connector and see if you have a 5 volt signal there.

Roy

Will do, tomorrow. Headed for bed in twenty minutes.
If not 5 volts then what? Bad TPS?

No, ECM or wiring.

Roy

Okay, thanks again Roy.

You are welcome.

Got a few minutes last night.
Battery 12.49 volts.
TPS lead 1-steady 5 volts.
TPS lead 2- strong ground.
TPS lead 3 - .55 volts at idle steady increase to 4.65 volts at full throttle.
I will try to test the signals going to the coil driver and coil tomorrow.
Thank you Roy.

Roy,
I had some issues getting back on the site, Ken helped me out, Thanks Ken.
My wife and I finally had a day off together, she cranked the engine over while I checked the coil lead and then the number one spark lead, both worked great, fuel still at the Schrader valve. I guess my next move is to test fuel pressure, somewhere between 56-62 PSI is best, if below 56 they sold me a weak pump= replace the pump again, if it is between 56-62PSI then what?
Thanks Roy

Lets take one step at a time.

Test the pressure. if it is below the spec, it will require a pump.

If it is good then we need to check to see if the PCM is commanding the injectors to inject fuel

Roy

Got it, new pump, but may be weak, next day off next Saturday the eighth.
Weather permitting.

Okay, will be here to help you when you need it.

Roy

Well Roy, I have done some reading online, tried a "starting fluid test" ran like a trooper while the fluid lasted then shut off, that told me good compression, spark, and timing. I borrowed a fuel pressure tester from a friend, jumped the fuel relay, only got 30-32 PSI Haynes book says 60-66 PSI. I remember reading somewhere that if there is not enough fuel pressure the poppet valves will not open allowing fuel into the cylinder.
Could that be the only cause for fuel not getting from the Schraeder valve to the cylinders?

As I stated before, you need 55-62 lbs of pressure. 35 will not start the truck.

You need to replace the pump and then retest to see if you have the correct pressure.

Roy

On it tomorrow.

Okay, sounds like a plan. Keep us updated.

Roy

Took out the pump I got a month or so ago, went to NAPA traded out the weak pump for a new one (Delphi), installed it, the truck started right up, ran a little high on the RPMs and the exhaust smelled a bit "lacquered". But I figured that was from the throttle body cleaner I had used to clean the throttle with. Ran well for ten to fifteen minutes, I wanted her to get up to operating temperature, my wife hollered out "shut that truck off, you are stinking up the house!". So I did, and now it will not restart. I am back to square one. I will borrow the fuel pressure gauge on Tuesday (weather permitting) and test again.
Might it be a bad fuel pressure regulator?

Check the pressure again before we speculate anything.

Roy

No problem. Glad to help.

Roy

Did a pressure test between rainstorms today, a strong 62-64 PSI, tried to start her again, nothing. What is next Roy?

Okay, need to see if the PCM is grounding the injectors and commanding them to fire.

Do you have a noid light to check to see if the injector is being commanded on? If not, you can get one at a parts store.

Roy

I will look into that. She ran great for about fifteen minutes on Sunday until I had to shut it down. Might it be the fuel pressure regulator?

Sorry to bother you Roy, I cannot seem to find any way to test a CSFI system with a noid light.
Could you send me some reference or guides?

Does this have eight injectors or just two on the throttle body?

Roy

8 poppet valves in a CSFI.

Okay, that system you cannot check with a noid.

Do you have a full blown scan tool that can read live data for the injectors?

Roy

like an OBD II?

Yes, an OBD2 scanner. Not a code reader, but a full scan tool that can access all the modules.

Roy

Got it. I will see if NAPA rents one out on Sunday.

Okay, keep us updated.

Roy

Good morning Roy,

I went to NAPA and borrowed their OBD II reader and fuel pressure test kit on Sunday, I hooked up the reader, and got some old memory codes and erased them, went to turn the key to get new "live codes" and she started right up, let her run for an hour or so with no issues other than black smoke and a funky turpentine/lacquer smell, took her out for a "test drive" and everything seemed to work ok, with only a couple of minor backfires.
I let the truck rest for a half an hour, for the fuel and vacuum pressure to relax, it started right back up. Let it rest again for three hours and it started back up again but with some choking out after five minutes, touched the throttle and it came out of it. I checked the codes again and only got one for a bad O2 sensor which is broken.
Back when the no starts began I poured a bottle of Lucas fuel system cleaner into the tank (about half full, fifteen gallons) with all the cranking over and allowing her to sit afterward, maybe it loosened something up. From what I have read, black smoke, some uneven idle, a few backfires, and no start are all signs of a bad fuel pressure regulator. What is your opinion?

Good morning.

First of all never, never ignore inactive codes. They could be a clue. Erasing them was a big mistake because they contained vital freeze frame information.

What O2 code? O2 codes do not mean the sensor is bad at all.

What was the fuel pressure?

Yes, it could be the regulator but it is part of the spider.

Roy

I have a broken O2 sensor. I noticed it when I reinstalled my transmission this spring, but it ran well without it. 62-64PSI Yes, here is a good quality video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6Iipjvif0Y

Well Roy, she is starting right up just like always, but she is showing all of the tell-tale signs of a bad fuel pressure regulator.
I am going to start driving it into work again today, praying it gets me home again.
NAPA wants $65.00 for a new fuel pressure regulator. I have found some online for as low as $15.00, but it is going to be a pain in the backside to replace. I am going to stick with the ACDelco when I do it I will let you know what happens, so you may help others later on.
If you are ever in Maine, swing by and I will buy you a coffee or something.
Thanks