Grinding noise left rear wheel

Here is the video and photos.

Welcome back:

There is only one. The other is a cut off assembly.

Here are the directions for replacing the pump. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

______________

2003 Mazda 6 L4-2.3L
Removal and Installation
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Service and Repair Procedures Fuel Pump Unit Removal and Installation
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FUEL PUMP UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

WARNING: Fuel line spills and leakage are dangerous. Fuel can ignite and cause serious injuries or death and damage. Fuel can also irritate skin and eyes. To prevent this, do not damage the sealing surface of the fuel pump unit when removing or installing.

CAUTION: Disconnecting/connecting the quick release connector without cleaning it may possibly cause damage to the fuel pipe and quick release connector. Always clean the quick release connector joint area before disconnecting/connecting using a cloth or soft brush, and make sure that it is free of foreign material.

1. Complete the "BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE". (See BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE.)
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the rear seat cushion.

pic 1


pic 2

4. Remove in the order indicated in the table.
5. Install in the reverse order of removal.
6. Complete the "AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE". (See AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE.)

Plastic Fuel Hose Removal Note:

CAUTION: The quick release connector may be damaged if the tab is bent excessively. Do not expand the tab over the stopper.

1. Disconnect the quick release connector.

1. Push the tab on the locking coupler 90° until it stops.
2. Pull the fuel hose straight back.

NOTE:


pic 3

- The stopper may be removed from the quid-connector. Take care not to lose it. Reinstall it to the quick release connector before reconnecting the fuel line.


pic 4

- The locking coupler has two internal locking tabs which retain the fuel pipe. Be sure that the tab on the locking coupler is rotated until it stops to release two internal locking tabs.


pic 5

2. Cover the disconnected quick release connector and fuel pipe with vinyl sheets or the like to prevent them from being scratched or contaminated with foreign material.

Fuel Pump Cap Removal Note:


pic 6

1. Using the SST, remove the fuel pump unit.

Fuel Pump Unit Installation Note:


pic 7

1. Verify that the fuel tank mark is aligned with the fuel pump mark as shown.

Plastic Fuel Hose Installation Note:


pic 8



NOTE: A checker tab is integrated with quick release connector for new plastic fuel hoses. The checker tab will be released from the quick release connector after it is completely engaged with the fuel pipe.

1. When the retainer is not removed, perform the following procedure.

1. Inspect the fuel pump unit sealing surface for damage and deformation, and replace as necessary.
- If the quick release connector O-ring is damaged, replace the plastic fuel hose.


pic 9

2. Slightly apply clean engine oil to the sealing surface of the fuel pump unit.
3. Align the fuel pipe on the fuel pump unit and quick release connector so that the tabs of the retainer are correctly fitted into the quick release connector. Push the quick release connector straight into the retainer until a click is heard.
4. Lightly pull and push the quick release connector a few times by hand and verify that it can move 2.0 - 3.0 mm {0.08 - 0.11 in} and it is connected securely.
- If quick release connector does not move at all, verify that O-ring is not damaged and slipped, and reconnect the quick release connector.

_________________________

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you Joe. Thanks for all the information.

Quick question as I am not to clear on which one is just the cut off assembly.

Is the cut off assembly the one with just two lines leading to it (the one on the right) or the one with multiple lines leading to it (the one on the left)?

How do I know which one is the one i have to change?

Thank you

Welcome back:

I'm almost certain it is on the driver's side. If you look at the pictures from the directions, you should be able to eliminate the wrong one.

Let me know how things work out for you.

Take care.

Joe

I guess what I will do is turn the key to the run position without starting the car and listen for when the fuel pump primes then I should be able to tell which side it is.

Let me know.

Joe

I found it. It is on the left side. Will let you know how it goes.

Welcome back:

That's the one I thought. Let me know.

Take care,
Joe

Fuel pump works. Thanks again Joe.

Lost the snap ring for the fuel pressure regulator. Seems nothing is ever going my way.

I am totally stuck if I can't find one tomorrow to buy.not even sure if they sell them down here.

Welcome back:

Honestly, your luck is just like mine. You should be able to find a snap ring.

However, I'm glad to hear it's running. You are very welcome if I helped in any way, but you did the job and other than a snap ring, it sounds like you did a good one.

If you can't find what you need, let me know.

Take care,

Joe

Thank you for your words of encouragement Joe. I am about to go to the few auto parts store we have to look for it. I wish I knew the size.

The slide hammer and bearing press kit I ordered will be reaching this weak so I will let you know how that works out.

Hey Joe,

How do you know if the fuel injectors are seated properly?

I changed them last night.

Welcome back:

If not installed properly, usually they leak. The vehicle may not run at all or have a misfire also. Here are the directions for your vehicle to remove and replace. The pics correlate with the directions.

__________________________

2003 Mazda 6 L4-2.3L
Fuel Injector Removal and Installation
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Injector Service and Repair Procedures Fuel Injector Removal and Installation
FUEL INJECTOR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FUEL INJECTOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

CAUTION: Disconnecting/connecting the quick release connector without cleaning it may cause damage to the fuel pipe and quick release connector. Always clean the quick release connector joint area before disconnecting/connecting using a cloth or soft brush, and make sure that it is free of foreign material.

1. Complete the "BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE". (See BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE.)
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


pic 1


pic 2

3. Remove in the order indicated in the table.
4. Install in the reverse order of removal.
5. Complete the "AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE". (See AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE.)

Plastic Fuel Hose Removal Note:

CAUTION: The quick release connector may be damaged if the tab is bent excessively. Do not expand the tab over the stopper.

1. Disconnect the quick release connector.
1. Push the tab on the locking coupler 90° until it stops.
2. Pull the fuel hose straight back.

NOTE:


pic 3

- The stopper may be removed from the quick connector. Take care not to lose it. Reinstall it to the quick release connector before reconnecting the fuel line.


pic 4

- The locking coupler has two internal locking tabs which retain the fuel pipe. Be sure that the tab on the locking coupler is rotated until it stops to release two internal locking tabs.


pic 5

2. Cover the disconnected quick release connector and fuel pipe with vinyl sheets or the like to prevent them from being scratched or contaminated with foreign material.

Fuel Injector Removal Note:

CAUTION: Use of a deformed injector retaining clip will cause the injector to not engage correctly. Always use a new clip when reattaching the injector, otherwise it may cause the injector to rotate.


pic 6

1. Insert a screwdriver between the injector cup and the clip fingers.


pic 7



NOTE: When rotating the screwdriver to spread the clip fingers, bend them sufficiently to make sure they release from the notched edge of the injector cup.

2. Rotate the screwdriver to spread the clip fingers and remove them from the injector cup.
3. Pull the injector and clip out of the rail.


pic 8

4. Remove the clip from the injector according to the following:
1. Grasp the clip with a pair of pliers.
2. Pull the clip parallel to the injector groove, and remove it from the injector.
3. Discard the clip.

Fuel Injector Installation Note:

1. Lightly lubricate the injector groove and O-ring.
2. Pre-attach a new clip in the injector groove.

NOTE: When the clip is attached correctly, the central area of the injector and the clip finger positions are aligned.


pic 9

3. Hold the injector firmly, push the clip into the injector until the clip stops sliding.
4. Verify that the injector connector position is correct, and press the injector and clip into the injector cup. Continue pressing until the clip contacts the lower surface of the injector cup.
5. Verify that the injector and clip are correctly attached with the clip locked onto the injector cup notch.

Plastic Fuel Hose Installation Note:


pic 10



NOTE: A checker tab is integrated with quick release connector for new plastic fuel hoses. The checker tab will be released from the quick release connector after it is completely engaged with the fuel pipe.

1. When the retainer is not removed, perform the following procedure.
1. Inspect the fuel pump unit sealing surface for damage and deformation, and replace if necessary.
- If the quick release connector O-ring is damaged, replace the plastic fuel hose.


pic 11

2. Slightly apply clean engine oil to the sealing surface of the fuel pump unit.
3. Align the fuel pipe on the fuel pump unit with quick release connector so that the tabs of the retainer are correctly fitted into the quick release connector. Push the quick release connector straight into the retainer until a click is heard.
4. Lightly pull and push the quick release connector a few times by hand and verify that it can move 2.0 - 3.0 mm {0.08 - 0.11 in} and it is connected securely.
- If quick release connector does not move at all, verify that O-ring is not damaged and slipped, and reconnect the quick release

____________________

Let me know if that helps.

Joe

Thanks Joe. I really appreciate your help. Lol I did not follow some of those steps when I changed them.

While changing spark plugs the rubber on the inside of the spark plugs socket fell out. I didn't see it come out with the spark plugs or socket so I am worried it my have fallen in the spark plugs hole.

I was thinking of removing the valve cover gasket to check. (It is easy to remove my valve cover gasket). Will I be able to see that way or should I do what they do when there is water in an engine and start the engine without the spark plugs in the hole to flush out the oil and piece of rubber?

Welcome back:

If you are referring to the rubber boot, I don't think that would fit through the spark plug hole. I will say that if you didn't install them, they will most likely arc and cause misfires.

As far as the cover, it is nothing more than a bolt on component. If you need help, let me know.

Joe

The cover is easy. I've taken off the valve cover a few time before. I just was asking if I take it off will I be able to see down the spark plug hole as I can't remember if that 8s possible.

I'll check under the hood again to see if it might have fallen somewhere there instead. If I find it maybe I will stop worrying.

Welcome back:

I understand. I'm the same way. Let me know if I can help in any way. However, I have a feeling it wouldn't fit into the spark plug hole.

Take care of yourself.

Joe

Thanks Joe. You too.

Happy to help.

Hey Joe,

Sorry to be so annoying. I am putting in a new connector for my ignition coil and have a little trouble. All the lines coming from the connector are black. How do I tell which one is power, which one is ground and what the other one is?

I can let you know what colors were on the original connector lines if that will help.

Welcome back:

The first picture show the wire color at the coil. The next two shows where they go. The last picture shows the plug and letters identify each plug. You can see the letters on the schematic to identify color.

Let me know
.
Joe

Great. Thanks Joe. I appreciate it.

Also, where do you get all this information from?

Welcome back:

We have access to online manuals. There are two we use, Alldata and Mitchel 1. They are both excellent and used by most shops and dealerships.

Joe

Oh I have heard of Alldata a few times. Great, I might look into that.

So I got a set of snap rings today. Got the new if ignition coil and connector on as well. Everything seems to work fine but I was unable to test drive it tonight. Will let you know how it works out.

Also the slide hammer got here today Long with the new drive belt and tensioner pulley. Once I put them on along with the new wheel hub and bearings I will update you

The fuel pump works fine and great, but I noticed one thing tonight and this is what I was afraid of. The fuel gauge doesn't work now and I'm sure I know the problem. The lever arm (float or whatever it's called) is too long. I still have the old fuel pump at the house to compare it to. I was thinking of bending it to shorten it and get it closer to the shape of the original fuel pump. Is that a good idea? One of my friends told me if I do that the gauge might not be accurate. Let me know what you think. I might just leave it and ride it out like it is.

Wow you aren't having much luck. If you change it and it is too short or longer than it should be, it may throw off the fuel gauge reading. The float is attached to what is called a rheostat. Basically, it is a resister that as the float chances level, it allows more or less power to be sent. If it isn't accurate as far as the float position, the gauge will be wrong.

Are you able to switch the float on the two?

Joe

Lol I know right. Not very lucky so far.

I will try and see if I can get the float off of the original. Hopefully it will fit.

Thanks Joe.

No problem. Happy to help.

Take care

Hey Joe,

I wanted to ask. What is a 'Cut Off Assembly's in reference to the fuel pump picture I showed you?

Thanks

Hey Joe,

I figured everything out. I got the wrong fuel pump it seems. The one I took off the car has two openings at the top while the other has one. I thought I could just disconnect the cut off assembly and run it like that but I was so wrong, lol.. Lots of gas came out from the hose leading from the cut off assembly.

I took pictures to show you the difference on them.

Do you know where I can buy the correct fuel pump assembly? I have looked everywhere and cannot find it. Some help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Joe.

Here are the pictures. The yellowish looking one is the old one and the white one is the new one.

Welcome back:

I just jumped on AutoZone's site. Here is what I found. See picture 1.

Not a cheap one is it.

Joe

Doesn't have two spouts like the original. Seems there's no way I can find that fuel pump assembly.

Can you get just a pump and install it into your fuel module?

Joe

I switched the pump from the new fuel pump assembly I bought into my original fuel pump assembly.

I went to remove the wheel bearing and noticed it doesn't look the same as what was in the manual I have. I think this might have been converted from a 4-wheel drive to a two wheel drive.

So I totally give up. I'm done Joe, lol.

Did the fuel pump work? Also, can you provide a picture of the new bearings?

Let me know.

Joe

It came as an assembly.. So hub and bearings already together.

The pictures are below.

No I have not tested the pump as yet.

Is the serpentine belt being too short a common thing? This has happened to me twice now. This can't be a coincidence.

Trying to put on the new belt and it seems to be too short.
Wanted to get it on to sell the car.

No, that isn't common. Compare its length to the original one you removed. It sounds like they sold you the wrong one.

Ugh... Well the one I have on now should do then. I still don't see why the tensioner pulley is rattling. It's brand spankin' new.

Also, the fuel pump works.

Glad to hear the pump is working. Good job. As far as the belt, I'm not sure what to say. It really should fit properly.