Grinding noise left rear wheel

Welcome to 2CarPros.

Did this noise just start since the brake work? Does it change pitch when turning, coasting, accelerating or anything you can think of?

If it just started and nothing changes it, first check to make sure the backing plate behind the rotor wasn't bent and is rubbing the rotor. Remove the wheel and move the rotor back and forth to see if you can identify where the sound is coming from. My guess is that it is touching and making the noise. If nothing is toughing or hanging up, I would recommend returning the brake pads and trying a different set. I have had situations with less expensive pads that made noise no matter what I did. I don't know if it was the compound used, but nothing would get rid of the noise.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions. One last thought, make sure the parking brake isn't too tight and hanging up.

Let me know,
Joe

Yes, it just started after the brake work. I tried everything, it does not stop no matter what I do. They are good brakes, I do not think they are the problem. The dust shield was my guess as well. I just bent and pushed it back a little and drove it before seeing this the email. The noise has gotten noticeably lower in sound and frequency. The dust shield wasn't bent but could it be that the new rotor is slightly thicker than the old worn one i had which could lead the the rubbing/grinding sound? I might just remove the dust shield altogether. What do you think?

Welcome back:

The rotor should be a little thicker, but shouldn't touch. You may have accidentally bent the backing plate. See if the noise stops if you bend it away more. I don't recommend removing it. It has a good purpose. It keeps all the junk from under the vehicle (while driving) from covering the rotor.

Let me know if that takes care of it.

Joe

I just came from my car before seeing this message. I took off the wheel and jacked it up in the air. Spun the rotor and heard the grinding noise. The dust shield is not touching it from the back or the sides so I took the caliper and caliper bracket off. When I spun the wheel there was no noise coming from it. I put the caliper bracket and caliper back on with the brake pads installed and spun it hearing the grinding noise. So I took the brake pads out and spun the wheel. There was no noise at all. The caliper is not coming out uneven and is brand new so now I am lost. Any suggestions?

Are the pads floating in the caliper? In other words, when you have them mounted, are you able to move them at all or do they seem frozen in place.

Next, if they are free, what kind of brakes did you get. I have a feeling it is the brake pads. Also, is there anything on the mount, caliper, or rotor that indicates something is rubbing?

Let me know.

Joe

The only thing that was rubbing was the brake hardware Wich I remove and shortened with a dremel. Also, the pads on both the right and left side wheels would not go on without shortening the ends of the brake hardware.

If I lift the caliper the brakes are easily moved, and would just drop out of the bracket if I nudge them. I lube my brakes well.

I bought the *Power Stop Evo* rear brake pads. I think they were bout 17 or 19 bucks.

Welcome back:

I'm not sure why the hardware needed shortened. Are you certain the are the correct brakes for the vehicle? And I'm not familiar with the brakes you used. If there is no noise with them off, that is the only thing I can think of. Is it possible to return them and get a different set or brand? Also, is it possible for you to record the noise you are hearing and upload it for me to hear?

Sorry for all the questions. Not being there causes me to think of all types of possibilities. As far as the hardware, in over 35 years or working on vehicles, I never had to shorten the hardware to fit. Did you compare it to the old hardware?

Let me know and sorry if I'm being a pain. LOL

Joe

Thank you.

Lol you are not in the least being a pain. Yeah, I have never had to shorten hardware before as well. Uhm, yeah I think I compared them.

I have another set of hardwares that came with the caliper I will try. The funny thing is that the other side isn't making any noise. That's what is weird to me.

I can try to get the noise on audio. It might be hard to hear though. If I can get it I will send it.

It won't let me upload the recording. Is there another way to get it to you?

Also, I notice the grinding sound I there most when I am taking a corner now.

Welcome back:

Are you sure it isn't a wheel bearing?

If it is I will be mad. I don't know though. If it is, shouldn't it make noise whether the brakes are installed or not?

I just notice the the brake pad is loose in the caliper, as in I can easily wiggle it with two fingers. The other ones I cannot. They are tight. Could that be the culprit?

Welcome back:

Yes, that could be the issue. Remove that brake pad and see if the sound is gone. I have to be honest, I question if something was mixed up in the packaging because you really shouldn't have had to modify the hardware.

Let me know.

Joe

I'll try that in the morning and see if that makes a difference. Because that pad doesn't seem to be positioned right like the others.

Welcome back:

Make sure to check size, design and all. Something is most likely different. Also, if you could upload a pic of the hardware you modified, and how it was done, it may help me.

Joe

So I think that the brakes are defective for one side. I put in the new brake hardware and it is still jiggling. The sound is there too. Since the sound is inconsistent it has to be the brake pad. When it moves it runs and then comes off then back on. I uploaded the video with the brake hardware modification. Turns out I was trying to put them on backwards like an idiot. I put on the ones that came with the caliper. The brake pad seems to be too small.

Here is the video of the brake wiggling.

I agree with you. Something is wrong. I wouldn't expect to see that much play. It's good they are not stuck or frozen in place, but that seem excessive to me.

Honestly, I would start over with a different brand of brake pads. If you have the hardware that came with the caliper, just use those. Don't be surprised if the problem is the composition used in the brake pads themselves. I have experienced that in the past.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Yeah I'm just going to go and get some akebono brake pads. I know they are superb quality. Thanks for all your help by the way. I really appreciate it.

Welcome back:

I don't recognize the brand, but I'm not sure where you are located. Manufacturers I know are good are bendix, Raybestos, and so on.

Let me know if you get things worked out, and you are very welcome. I just hope I helped.

Take care,
Joe

Hello Joe,

I am located in the Turks and Caicos. And trust me, you have been a great help.

Being that you have 35 years experience with cars i wanted to ask your advice.

Being that my car is 17 years old obviously it won't run like new. It hesitates very noticeably when taking off from a full stop, like at a traffic light. when taking off it would go slowly even if you press the gas pedal even more, then after a few seconds it would accelerate all at once. I have new spark plugs and wires. Also, the transmission seems to be fine. I was going to buy some parts for it.

1. Radiator Fan Assembly, Cooling Fan Controller & Radiator Cap (Changed The Radiator Recently)
2. Belt Tensioner and Idler Pulley (Changed The Belt Recently)
3. A/C Condenser
4. Raybestos Premium Rear Brake Pads
5. Water Pump (Changed the Thermostat Recently)
6. Four New Fuel Injectors & Fuel Filter & Housing Assembly
7. New Ignition Coil

All together would cost me 598 including shipping.

So my question is should I go through with this or just ride the car til the wheels fall off and junk it?


Thank you.

Hey Joe,

Changed the brake pads and no go. So I am lost. Might just be the wheel bearing for real. I uploaded a video. You can hear the grinding at some points of the video. Just listen for metal on metal sounds.

Welcome back:

First, often times what you described is related to low fuel pressure (pump or filter). When you press the gas, not enough fuel is available and it hesitates. So I would start by checking pressure. Also, make sure nothing us blocking the air intake (air filter) and the filter is good.

As far as the noise, I did hear it. It sounds (please understand I'm listening through a 1 inch computer speaker) like something is hitting /.touching the rotor. The noise is gone when the brakes are removed, correct? If that is the case, then although I was thinking bearing, it doesn't make sense. Is that still the case with removing the brake pads and the sound goes away? I still think it's something to do with either the warning tab on the brakes (but without change with new pads / unlikely) or the backing plate behind the rotor is touching.

Ugh!!! If I was there we could figure it out in no time. If I recall, for testing only, the backing plate isn't hard to remove. You may want to take it off and see if that stops it. Also, check the wheel bearing for axial (in and out) play. And make sure the ABS stator isn't rubbing on anything.

Let me know. By the way. Do you need all the things you listed above? That's a lot. If the car is in good condition, I always say. If it needs a couple hundred dollars to fix, what can you get for a couple hundred?

Let me know.

Joe

Okay I was thinking the same. Car is old so might be the fuel pump wearing out.

I do not need everything as in need it right now. What I do need is the radiator fan assembly, the belt tensioner and idler pulley and possibly the fuel pump. But since I live in the Turks and Caicos (Close to the Bahamas) I have to order everything to be shipped in from the states. So I was thinking preventative maintenance. Since the car is old and I figure they might soon kick the bucket as I do not know when last they were changed. Good idea or bad?

I checked the backing plate before. I'm thinking it's the wheel bearing. I think it doesn't make any noise when I take off the brakes because the car isn't under pressure when I jack it up and rotate the wheel. I already purchased a new wheel bearing and hub assembly. So I will let you know how that works out. I have attached a video below with a bad wheel bearing and makes the exact same sound my car is making. Only mines is louder. Come to think of it I do remember getting a wheel bearing code a while ago when I scanned my car but it went away so I forgot about it.

Quick question:

I recently sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the connectors for the ignition coil, fuel injectors and the main injector harness (intake harness). Before I did that I disconnected the battery terminals. I let the car dry for hours. Then reconnected everything. Now when I drive the tranny kicks when shifting into 2nd gear and 4th gear. I see not codes popping up. Should give the car some time to relearn or?

Thank you.

Welcome back:

Since the battery was disconnected, it could be related to a relearn process. See if it continues. Also, it's never a bad idea to have parts in case they are needed.

For the bearing, here are the directions for replacement. The pics attached correlate with the directions.

__________________________

REAR WHEEL HUB, HUB SPINDLE REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
WHEEL HUB, HUB SPINDLE REMOVAL INSTALLATION

Caution:
^ Performing the following procedures without first removing the ABS wheel-speed sensor may possibly cause an open circuit in the harness if it is pulled by mistake. Before performing the following procedures, remove the ABS wheel-speed sensor (axle side) and fix it to an appropriate place where the sensor will not be pulled by mistake while the vehicle is being serviced.


pic 1


1. Remove in the order indicated in the table.
2. Install in the reverse order of removal.

Locknut Removal Note


pic 2


1. Knock the crimped portion of the locknut outward using a small cape chisel and a hammer.
2. Lock the hub by applying the brakes.
3. Remove the locknut.

ABS Sensor Rotor Removal Note

Note:
^ The sensor rotor does not need to be removed unless it is being replaced.

pic 3


1. Remove the sensor rotor using a chisel.

ABS Sensor Rotor Installation Note


pic 4


1. Set the SST as shown in the figure.

Caution:
^ Position the SST so that marking B faces the bottom.


pic 5


2. Press on the new sensor rotor using the SST and a press.

Locknut Installation Note


pic 6

1. Install a new locknut and stake it as shown.
________________________________

I hope this eliminates the issue. Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you for all the information Joe, I really do appreciate it. Once the part reaches next week and I fit it on I will let you know how it went.

The Schrader valve for the fuel pressure test adapter is that the screw in valve on the right side of the fuel rail in the picture?

The picture is upside down for some odd reason.

Welcome back:

If that is part of the fuel rail, yes. And I look forward to hearing from you on the noise.

Take care,

Joe

Hey Joe,

Hope all is well. Tried getting the hub off but it is stuck. Seems I might have to find a slide hammer to get it off.

I am writing back to tell that transmission was still kicking from the last time I told it was even after the relearn process. When eventually fixed it was me flooring the gas pedal on the highway. Sped for about thirty seconds. Now it shifts like a dream again. Hope this helps you or someone else who might have the same problem.

Welcome back:

That's an interesting fix. lol As long as it's working, that's all that matters. As far as the hub, if you are referring to the part I highlighted in the pic, a slide hammer can be used or they actually make a puller to get that apart.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe

Unfortunately I have to order the slide hammer..
So now I wait... Yes the highlighted part is what I was referring to.

Yes, lol it was an interesting fit.

Take care,

Jean

Most part stores will lend or rent the slide hammer or puller to you. However, I don't know where you are located.

I will watch for your findings and if this takes care of the issue.

Take care and good luck.

Joe

Hey Joe. I hope all is well.

I recently changed the tensioner and idler pulley. I notice a rattle sound once I turn on the compressor. I went and checked and noticed that the idler pulley and belt tensioner pulley do not spin.

I know the idler pulley is supposed to spin. I am going to back off the bolt a little. Maybe I torqued it too tight.

But my question is whether or not the belt tensioner pulley is supposed to be spinning?

Thanks

Never mind. I went and took off the tire and noticed that the tensioner is the one rattling. The pulley moving up and down quite a bit. And it is spinning.

Could a loose belt (belt not being the right fit or a little too long) cause this?

Welcome back and sorry for the delay in getting back to you. If the belt is too long, the tensioner may not be able to tighten it enough. Thus, this could happen. Are both spinning now? Did you change the belt?

Let me know.

Take care,
Joe

I had changed the belt months before the tensioner and pulley. They are both spinning now. I bought a belt and measured it along side the one I took off my car which was fraying badly.

Maybe the belt I took off the car and measure it against was stretched from wear. Meaning the belt I bought after measuring was too long. I think that might be it. What do you think?

Welcome back:

That is very possible. Have you replace it?

Joe

No... I have to wait... They do not have the right fit in stock... Will take about two weeks. Should I just not drive the car?

That's a tough question for me to answer not being there.

Hey Joe,

Hope everything is well. I am still waiting on the slide hammer.

I went to change my fuel filter this morning. I noticed that I did not see the access panel like in the videos. After taking a closer look I noticed two access panels. One on the left and one on the right under the rear seats. The left one has a big "L" and "06Y" stamped on it. The right one has a big "R" and "06X" stamped on it.

I am lost now. I am trying to figure out if this means there are two fuel pumps. Is one a dummy. I'm not sure where to go from here.

I have attached a video and photos.