engine wont crank

1999 GMC YUKON
Avatar
SLYWUF
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Electrical problem V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 140K miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
I need some in depth technical help please - here's the long sad story in 3 part harmony: Recently this Yukon (5.7L Auto Trans) would start fine in the morning, drive fine to work, start up fine after work, but shutting it off 1/2 hour later and trying to restart again would get no action from the starter at all. Let it sit and hour and then it started up fine. Happened again the next day only this time it took 2-3 hours before it would restart. I thought the starter was the culprit, so spent big bucks on a new starter and put it in.
It started up just fine but the next time it was driven for a while and shut
off for about 30 minutes, it would not restart again... not even after waiting
more than 12 hours. Here are the results of some testing that I have done:

No check engine lite was ever present, and plugging in my OBD2 reader showed no error codes. Security light seems to function normally - stays on for about 5 seconds after turning on the key and then goes off.
The fuel pump does run when the key is turned on.
The fuses are good.
The starter relay is good. Jumped across the output terminals of the starter relay socket and the starter cranks fine, motor starts but will run for just a couple of seconds.
The ignition switch on this vehicle was just replaced about a year ago.
According to the factory manual that I have, there is supposed to be a ground present on one side of the starter relay (coil side) this is pin 85 on the relay, and then when the ignition key is turned to start, there should be +12 volts on the other side of that relay coil which is pin 86. I dont see either when I put my meter on there. The diagnostics dont appear to take into account the theft deterrent system, which I suspect may be the reason. Should I be able to see theft deterrent trouble codes with the OBD2 reader as well? I tried adding a ground to pin 85 of the starter relay but it still wont start. What else can I do to figure out what is keeping the starter relay from working? Is there a way to bypass the theft deterrent system? HELP ! I'm stuck.
Thanks in advance.
May 4, 2008 at 8:09 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
GRIZZY51
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
i seem to have the same identical problem. I shut the vehicle off & went to restart about 15 min. later & no crank. tested battery voltage 12.6, key in acc. position gear position indicator light on. Key in run position gear indicator light off. has after market alarm, removed alarm no change. tested ign switch, ign relay & neutral safety all good. on advice replaced all of the above, no change. If I have the key in the run position & supply ground using a continuity test light to the yellow wire from the ign switch vehicle cranks & runs, still no gear indicator light. The same happens when at fuse $ 8 at the inside panel or to the pin at the starter relay. The security light comes on for about 5 seconds & goes out, no flashes. no trouble codes in OBDII

At the time that this occured I was 85 miles from home. I was able to jump the starter at the solenoid & drive it home.

I am at the end of my rope if you have any further info I would sure appreciate the help.

Thanks GRIZZY
Jun 20, 2008 at 1:16 PM
Avatar
STRAILER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 53,854 POSTS
Hello,

These trucks have a gear selector switch on the side of the transmission on the drivers side where the selector cable hook up. The starter circuit goes through it and it sounds like it has gone bad.

Here is a guide that can help you get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-neutral-safety-switch-works


Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

May 1, 2017 at 9:16 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
VANCE77
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I have 1999 yukon xl - let off key and turn it again it starts also when you go to pass some one it runs out of power

I replaced plugs and wires distributor roter and and cap also fuel filter and no codes come up
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
FIXITMR
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 9,990 POSTS
does givin it gas help? or what if you prime pump without turning to start a few times first?
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
VANCE77
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
does not help to prime it if you pull the air tube off there is a lot of black carbon
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
VANCE77
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
you let it sit for day some time it will fire right up
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
FIXITMR
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 9,990 POSTS
what happens on passing someone?
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
VANCE77
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
it dogs out when passing just lacks the normal power
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
FIXITMR
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 9,990 POSTS
check fuel flow and pressure.
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
LOLOC
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Electrical problem
1999 GMC Yukon V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

changed out intake gaskets had the batt. unhooked for a few day got it back together and It will not turn over to start rang out the wire to the starter sol. it good changed the starter switch in the colum tryed the passloc reset a few time if I put my test light on the 10 amp fuse for crank it will turn over and start ? any help thanks Kevin
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
JDL
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 16,098 POSTS
(it will turn over and start )

The above phrase in your post, is that a typo?

The crank fuse circuit should be hot, with the key in the crank position, from there the voltage goes to the trans range switch/ neutral switch. I don't guess they call it a neutral switch anymore. From there the voltage goes to the coil side of the starter relay in the power distribution center under the hood. Be careful fooling with the terminals for the starter relay, it is possible to crank the starter from there. Because of safety issues and forum rules, I don't think I'm supposed to talk about bypassing the relay.
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
VIONDI
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
my yukon won't crank
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
VIONDI
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
No spark from spark plugs, but i have replaced the ignition coil and cam sensors
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
RASMATAZ
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 75,992 POSTS
BASIC IGNITION SYSTEM CHECKS

DIS (EXCEPT 3.4L)
Spark
If factory tachometer is connected to coil tachometer terminal, disconnect tachometer before performing tests. When removing spark plug wire from spark plug, twist and pull on boot. DO NOT pull on wire.
Using Spark Tester (J-26792), check for spark at each spark plug wire. Leave other wires connected while checking for spark. Check spark plug wire resistance on suspect wires. Resistance should be about 30,000 ohms.
Ignition Coil Power Source
CAUTION:DO NOT insert DVOM leads into ignition coil connectors. Connector terminals may be damaged. When using DVOM, ensure lead contacts front edge of terminals only.

Turn ignition on. Check ignition positive voltage circuit of ignition control module for battery voltage. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If battery voltage is not present, check fuse for ignition control module circuit. If fuse is not open, check for open in circuit between fuse and ignition control module.
Ignition Coil Test (2.2L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 6.5L & 7.4L)
Turn ignition off. Remove engine cover. Disconnect wiring from ignition coil and distributor lead.
Using DVOM, check for continuity between coil primary terminal and exterior case of coil (ground). Replace ignition coil if continuity is present.
Using DVOM, measure resistance between coil primary terminals. Replace ignition coil if resistance is not 0.1 ohm.
Using DVOM, measure coil secondary resistance. Replace ignition coil if resistance is not 5000-25,000 ohms.
Reconnect distributor lead and wiring to ignition coil. Install engine cover.
Ignition Coil Test (4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L)
Turn ignition off. Disconnect wiring from ignition coils.
Using DVOM, measure resistance between ignition coil terminal "A" and ignition coil mounting bracket. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. Replace ignition coil if resistance is not 0-10,000 ohms.
Using DVOM, measure coil secondary resistance. Replace ignition coil if resistance is not 3000-7000 ohms.
DIS (3.4L)
Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis (Primary Ignition Check)
Perform On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system check. See ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC (OBD) SYSTEM CHECK in appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article. After performing OBD system check, go to next step.
If any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present, diagnose DTCs. See appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article. If DTCs are not present, go to next step.
Start engine. If a no start condition or hard-start condition is present, go to next step. If engine starts okay, go to step 5.
Turn ignition off. Disconnect Ignition Control Module (ICM) harness connector C2. Turn ignition on. Using DVOM measure voltage between ground and ignition battery voltage circuit at ICM harness connector C2. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If voltage is less than 10 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 10 volts or greater, go to NO START-ENGINE CRANKS OKAY (3.4L) under NO START DIAGNOSIS.
Drive vehicle and note driveability problems such as miss, stumble or hesitation. If driveability problem is present, go to ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS (SECONDARY IGNITION CHECK). If driveability problem is not present, go to next step.
If any other driveability problem is present, go to appropriate TROUBLE SHOOTING - NO CODES article. If no other driveability problems are present, go to step 8.
Check ELEK IGN fuse (10-amp), located in underhood junction block. If fuse is open, repair short to ground in ignition battery voltage circuit between fuse and ICM. Replace fuse. If fuse is okay, check for open in ignition battery voltage circuit. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. Check for loose or corroded terminals and connections. Repair as necessary. After repairs, go to next step. If circuit, terminals and connections are okay, go to appropriate TROUBLE SHOOTING - NO CODES article.
Operate vehicle within conditions in which problem occurred. If driveability problem is present, perform On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system check. See ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC (OBD) SYSTEM CHECK in appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article. If driveability problem is not present, system is okay.
Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis (Secondary Ignition Check)
Perform NO START DIAGNOSIS diagnosis. See NO START-ENGINE CRANKS OKAY (3.4L) under NO START DIAGNOSIS. After performing no start diagnosis, go to next step.
Install scan tool. Turn ignition on. If any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present, diagnose DTCs. See appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article. If DTCs are not present, go to next step.
Using scan tool, perform Fuel Injector Balance Test. See FUEL SYSTEM in appropriate SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article. Note cylinders with no engine speed or idle quality change. If any cylinders were noted, go to next step. If no cylinders were noted, go to step 17.
If 2 companion c
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
JOHNMLEVIN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
2007 GMC Yukon XL with 101,900. Won't start. Engine light, Stabilitrack&traction control lights. Tried starting and keeps turning over when i let go. Engine light on, Stabilitrack and traction control light and service needed shows. Won't start now. Lots of of water out of exhaust?
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
HMAC300
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 48,601 POSTS
It sounds like the battery is weak causing the problems you describe. go here for more info

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-battery

May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BCMULLEN95
  • MEMBER
  • 249 POSTS
It started with a no start. When Yukon was turned on you could hear the solenoid click and nothing else. So I assumed it was the starter. After pulling the starter I notices the crank sensor pigtail wires where not connected. I satured the wires back together reconnected everything back now it wants to start on its own. What else could it be that wouldcause this?
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Do you mean the engine cranks without you doing anything? If so, somehow you provided 12v power to the smaller wire on the solenoid. Double check that. Also, pull the starter relay to see if the problem stops. If it does, then the power is coming from a problem before the relay .

Let me know what you find.
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BCMULLEN95
  • MEMBER
  • 249 POSTS
Could the crank sensor pigtail wires by chance give the 12v problem if the wires some how got mixed up or switched to a different spot if you will.
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Yes
May 1, 2017 at 9:17 PM (Merged)
Avatar
JOHNSS27
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
sometimes i have a no crank happen it is just like there is no battery.... zero volts, no lights, no dome lights no keyless entry, nothing ziltch. if i hook up the jumper cords and jumpstart it it jumps starts easy. i can shut it off and it will start right up again like nothing was wrongwith it. it might start fifty times untill wham it dont do nothing zero. no power etc, no dashlights no keylessentry nothing has power. ok i have cleaned the battery terminals wich wernt dirty.i replaced the battery. i have checked and cleaned the grounds on the engine block and the fender. i have removed the cover on the underhood fuse block and checked the main power feed to the fuse box. the funny thing today when it did it i hooked up a jump box to the battery started the truck shut it off and unhooked the jump box and then the truck starts fine now. i just have to wait for about fifty time and it wont have power again. i dont know what to do. it did this with the old battery and the new battery. a friend of mine told me that he thought i should replace the fuse box under the hood. i removed it and checked the main big power power feeds and all plugs were clean tight.
May 1, 2017 at 10:02 PM (Merged)
Avatar
2CARPRO JACK
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 11,533 POSTS
I know you said no power, does the exterior have power? ie; headlights....etc? could be an ignition switch.When you had to clean th ebattery terminals, had the acid crept into the cable? when no start have you tested for power at the main power center with a meter or test light before hooking up a jumper?
May 1, 2017 at 10:03 PM (Merged)
Avatar
JOHNSS27
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
sorry it took so long to get back. when this happens i have no headlights no nothing. usually when i walk up to the truck and i use my keyless entry.if it works every thing will be fine but when it does its thing the keyless entry wont work either.i have no dome light no headlights no nothing like the battery is gone missing.when i cleaned the cables there was no acid or corrision on them. i replaced the long bolt and the spacer too.
May 1, 2017 at 10:03 PM (Merged)
Avatar
2CARPRO JACK
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 11,533 POSTS
When it does this, open the underhood electrical center and use a test light to check for power at the main power fuses. That way we at least know if power is getting in there, but not getting out.Could be a poor/corroded fuse connection
May 1, 2017 at 10:03 PM (Merged)
Avatar
YUKON2002
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Electrical problem
2002 GMC Yukon V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 91000 miles

Last several weeks, turn key and only clicking sound happened, no cranking then after serveral tries it cranks and starts. somtimes it would turn over without any delay at other times needed to turn key several times before it would start. now only a clicking sound from turning the key, no cranking...battery and starter tested at parts store both checked out good....battery connections look good but somthing is wrong....can anyone help on this????
May 1, 2017 at 10:10 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BMRFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 19,053 POSTS
Remove battery terminal
clean and retighten
May 1, 2017 at 10:10 PM (Merged)
Avatar
RENTERIAADRIAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
i tried the 10 min x3 on off sequence without success. my battery was disconnected for about 1 week.
May 1, 2017 at 10:10 PM (Merged)
Avatar
RASMATAZ
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 75,992 POSTS
Scan the computer for anti theft deterrent code/s
May 1, 2017 at 10:10 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SLOPEZ551980
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
My truck has two alarms on it and it wont crank and it is flashing and, battery,and the security light is flashing.
May 1, 2017 at 10:10 PM (Merged)
Avatar
WRENCHTECH
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 20,761 POSTS
Try the relearn procedure first. If it does not work, you will need a high end scanner to read the Passlock system.

PASSLOCK TEN MINUTE RELEARN


AUTO LEARN
Time required, approximately ten minutes:

1. Insure that the battery is fully charged.
2. Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
3. Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the CRANK position attempting to start the vehicle. The vehicle will start and then stall.
4. Leave the ignition switch in the ON position while observing the security indicator.
5. When the security indicator turns off, which can take up to ten minutes, turn the ignition switch off. Wait ten seconds.
6. The BCM and the PCM will learn the new code on the next start attempt.
May 1, 2017 at 10:11 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SCOTTSCOTT07
  • MEMBER
  • 21 POSTS
My girlfriends Yukon started up the other day and as soon as she started to take off it died on her and now wont even turn over I checked the cables and there is power but I have not checked the starter yet and also she said the ignition was never able to turn without the key but now is able to. Just looking for some parts to look at before I start replacing any help will be much appreciated.
May 1, 2017 at 10:11 PM (Merged)
Avatar
HMAC300
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 48,601 POSTS
scan for codes and check fuel pressure first with a gauge auto parts rent them.
May 1, 2017 at 10:11 PM (Merged)
Avatar
JSAMMOND
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
2003 GMC Yukon V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 76800 miles

A week ago I parked my 2003 Yukon XL running great. Last evening I tried to start the car but the starter would not operate. I suspected that the battery (1 year old) may be low on charge so I placed it on a charger over night. This afternoon I again tried to start the car after a good charge but the starter wouldn’t operate. I then choose to try out various accessories (lights, horn, power seat & window, etc) and all worked well; in fact all on at the same time and no power starving…I think the battery is fine. I next tried to start the car and noticed that when the key is turned to starting mode, the dash instrument lights dim and the accessories suffer from power starvation. I think something other than starter problems is at play here…no indication that the starter solenoid is operating normally. Any clues???
May 1, 2017 at 10:11 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BPFENNING
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Having the exact same problem ---> 2003 GMC Yukon XLT

Please let me know if you figure it out!

Am considering replacing starter
May 1, 2017 at 10:11 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BPFENNING
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Hi there - hope you had luck with your yukon. Ended up taking mine into a shop. Turned out the electronic fuel pump wires had been fried and the car has some sort of automatic shut off if there is no fuel getting to the engine so it saves the battery. Cost 677.00 dollars. Hope this helps!
May 1, 2017 at 10:11 PM (Merged)
Avatar
1971 IRONHEAD 1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Electrical problem
1994 GMC Yukon V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

lot of new parts, can jump selanoid. Turn key no turn over,
May 1, 2017 at 10:12 PM (Merged)
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Have you replaced the starter relay? Have you checked the ignition switch?
May 1, 2017 at 10:12 PM (Merged)
Avatar
1971 IRONHEAD 1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
New ign sw, new lock cyl, two starters, three selinoids. complete new power supplypassing fuse box. Steering col was once replaced, cant find nsw, not on bot of column, not on trans?
May 1, 2017 at 10:12 PM (Merged)
Avatar
  • MEMBER
  • 0 POST
My car starter quit working. It was installed after we purchased the vehicle ( which was about 4 years ago). The brand is Python. I checked to make sure the switch by my knees on the drivers side is "on" and it is. I also changed the battery in the remote and it still doesn't work. Any ideas what else it could be???
May 1, 2017 at 10:12 PM (Merged)
Avatar
WRENCHTECH
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 20,761 POSTS
You will have to contact the aftermarket manufacturer on that issue..
May 1, 2017 at 10:12 PM (Merged)