1998 Ford Ranger transmission fluid pump not pumping

Could it be electrical? The computer codes are indicating that there's a problem with the air intake flow sensor (the wire harness on the new engine didn't have a connection for this sensor) and another code indicating something else that I don't quite remember. There's solenoids in the transmission, right?

its possible, would be nice to know the other code.If the converter fell out a little during the swap it may not be driving the pump.I personally have never heard of or had a trans pump "lose its prime"

There was a slight difference in the wiring harness. It did not have a connector for a sensor on the air intake. Therefore one of the codes is for the "intake oxygen temperature sensor". The other one is for "cam sensor bank 1". That one doesn't sound to good.

You need to use the original wiring harness first.Neither one of those codes will keep the trans from working

Why do I have to use the original harness? What does the cam code mean?

Because that is the harness that matches the vehicle and the computer in it.That is why the harness on the other engine doesnt match up the same.Do you have the exacxt "P" number for the cam code so I can look it up.Is this a OHC or OHV engine? I have never seen a cam sensor bank 1 code before

The exact error codes are:
1) P0340
2) P0113

Did you swap the wiring harness back to the original one yet?
Sorry, my bad need to know if it a 3.0 or a 4.0

I have not swapped the harness yet. I will probably get it done this weekend. It's a 4.0L V6 XLT 4x4 1998.

P0113- Temp sensor (IAT, ECT) this could be the connector you dont have aspot for ontheintake (IAT Intake Air Temp) is the coolant sensor plugged in?

P0340- CMP Sensor. Camshaft position sensor.Is this plugged in?

I suggest going back to old harness, and being sure everything is plugged in before trying to diagnose these issues

Well, we don't have the old harness back in yet but I have determined that the CAM sensor in the new harness was a 2-wire sensor while my computer was expecting a 3-wire (Hall-Effect) sensor. We replaced the sensor on the new engine with the sensor from the old engine (which fits the original harness). Could the CAM sensor error code disable the transmission???? Or maybe it's just a subtle difference in wiring to the transmission????

We're going to replace the seals on the exhaust manifolds before we put everything back together again so it may be a few days before we know if this worked or not.

Thanks for your help! Is there a way to donate more at the closure of my issue?

The cam sensor wont keep the trans from working.Definitly look for any differences in the connectors (pin count) at the trans to see if that is the problem.Little changes are made from year to year

Well, we finally got the old harness on the new engine. It turned out that the cam sensor the computer wanted was a three wire sensor while the sensor on the engine was a two wire sensor. We put the sensor from the old engine on the new one. With the old harness on now we eliminated the P0113 code easily but we still have the cam sensor code. I suspect that's because we didn't put much care into aligning the sensor. Appearantly, I need a special tool.

Get #1 on top dead center.Install the CMP so that the vane on the shaft lines up with the aligning slot on the outer housing, that is where it is supposed to be.Then reinstall the sensor and it should run

ok, now we have no more error codes but the transmission fluid still isn't pumping. I don't know what to do next!!!!

I really appreciate your help. How can I donate more?

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I take it the fluid level is correct?Sorry, have to ask. Did you swap just the engine or both? If both, did the torque converter happen to pop out of the trans a little? When you put the engine back in, was there a small air gap between the engine flexpalte and the torque converter?

Don't worry, I understand about your fluid level question. Trust me, we've been questioning everything we've done. It seems like the torque convertor hasn't been installed properly. Even though it seemed like everthing went back together just fine when we did it it seems like the torque convertor wasn't installed right. I'm reading through one of those Chilton guides and it pretty much describes exactly what is going on with my truck.

The Chilton guide describes a process of pushing and turning at the same time on the torque convertor until you hear a couple of clicks. That's about all it says. Do you have any more specific directions or hints with pictures or diagrams?

If the converter was all of theway in, there will be an air gap between the flexplate and converter.If there wasnt a gap, the converter isnt all of theway in.You will have to remove the engine or trans to install converter. Hard to tell if any damage was done until it is done correctly and you see if it works.If the converter is all of the way in, you cant get your fingers in behind it when grabbing from front.

well, we dropped the transmission again today. The torque converter is still attached to the vehicle though(I believe the part it is connected to is the flex plate). The Chilton guide shows the installation of the comverter removed from the vehicle. Do we need to remove it and then install it using the "push, turn and click" method to the transmission or is it ok to leave it on the vehicle?

The converter has to be installed out of the vehicle.You will never get it al of the way in if it is bolted to the engine.You should always unbolt the converter from the flexplate when removing the trans or engine.

Got the converter off. I got the gears engaged properly by following the Chilton Guide. It's back on but we still have a few things left to put on before we can test it out. I understand how the torque converter operates better now and I've got a good feeling that I got it right. "viscous coupling" very cool.

Let me know how it goes

It went really well and then not so well. We got everything hooked back up, started the engine, and witnessed the transmission fluid squirt out the radiator line we left disconnected. We thought we nailed it! With the transmission line hooked up again, in the garage, we went through the gears and moved a few feet back and forward. We checked the fluid level. Everything was looking good. Now, as we manuevered around the driveway to go on a test drive things stopped working! The trans fluid was no longer pumping.

I'm pretty sure nothing was damaged with the first installation of the torque converter as there were no noises or bangs that usually accompany mechanical failures. And there were no such noises today either.

I read somewhere that you should be carefull if you flush older transmissions as it could dislodge debris and clog things. Even though we didn't do an official "flush" there has been a lot of turbulence in that transmission lately. Could we just have a clog somewhere?

What do I do now???

You may have damaged the front pump in the trans.If the converter wasnt all of the way in, it can damage it without any obscene noises happening.The odds of something plugging the line and keeping it from working are extremely thin

I was afraid you were going to say that :( Is it something fixable? Is it back to the salvage yard for a transmission? What would a shop want to do if I brought it in and said, "fix it."

You may want to call a few trans shops and ask for quotes.Explain what hapened, they will be able to give you a pretty close estimate of what you are looking at.

AAMCO said it would be something like $1600-$1800 to tear down that transmission plus any parts. I think I'm up for tearing into it myself. What do you think I should do?

Assuming we screwed something up with the torque converter what would I have to do?

It would most likely be the front pump in the trans, not necessarily the converter.I dont recommend you "tear into it" without knowing what you are doing, an automatic trans is fairly complicated, that is why they cost so much to rebuild

I called a couple of shops and told them my situation. If I bring in it to them they'll fix it for around $300. That's what I'm gonna do.

Good call.. let me know how it goes

On the road again!!! Finally!!! I do get an error code that indicates it's "running lean" though. I've had this before and it turned out to be the idle air control valve. I replaced it and it fixed the problem before. We put the newer control valve on the engine so I don't know why it's not working right. It's exhibiting the same symptoms as before. It doesn't always idle too well.

Check for vacuum leaks.Sparay around the intake with carb cleaner, when theidle changes you hit a leak.Also check fuel pressure with a manual gauge.If ok, it may have a Mass Airflow Meter that is going away, the odds of 2 IAC valves going bad is fairly slim

I haven't figured this damn thing out yet. I drove 500 miles this weekend with the check engine light on and got really crappy gas mileage. I checked the fuel pressure this evening and it was 65 psi. That's about 20 psi higher then normal (I think). I made sure all the vacuum and electrical connections were secure too.

What is the code number? is it saying lean bk1 or bk2 or both?. Be sure there are no cracks in the intake hose from throttle body to the Mass AIrflow Meter. Also be sure you have constant intake vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator.

P0174 is the code. In the course of troubleshooting this I broke a vacuum line. I haven't traced it yet so I'm not sure where it goes but it doesn't seem to effect the problem. Do you think the fuel pressure is high because the computer is trying to pump a lot of gas into the engine to compensate for the lean condition?

Oh, and I believe the error code indicated both banks. What does that mean?

Any vacuum leak will cause a lean error.Fix all vacuum leaks and clear codes first.The fuel pressure is run off of a vacuum signal from the intake, that is why I said to be sure the fuel regultaor has a solid vacuum signal from intake

So I traced down that broken vacuum line. I had to remove the "panel" (for lack of a better word) that is between the front passenger side tire and engine compartment. The vacuum line lead to a cylinder/tank looking thing right behind the headlight. What is this??? I'll get a new vacuum line tomorrow. I read in the Chilton Guide that the PCV valve should be replaced every year or so. What is the purpose of the PCV valve? Should I replace it?