My heater is not working - blows cold air?

It sounds like the blend door actuator it is stuck and it determines if you get heat or AC. I'm confident that is where the problem is.

and this guide and video can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

and

https://youtu.be/SNRb6pSwYuU

Let me know what you find.

I'm getting no heat on the passenger side only on my 2003. Brought it to local shop, they went thru it and everything is working, there is no fresh air vent. The actuator is working properly. The cold weather is creeping in and trying to figure out.
PLEASE HELP

RW

Hello,

It sounds like you have a blend door actuator that is not working. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when changing the actuator out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Check out the diagrams (Below) of all blend door actuator locations

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken

I found the actuator and linkage was a little messed up from rust? Weird one I replaced the actuator and cleaned it up no more cold air. Thanks for the guides really helped.

Yep same problem here did the replacement and now i have heat!

many thanks :)

If you remove the passenger side under dash trim panel. Grab a flashlight and look up were the foam rubber seal meets the a/c plenum, is the foam torn or missing? This foam is oval shaped and joins the air intake opening under the hood with the heater and a/c plenum....

I have found that the plastic arm coming out of the air inlet duct is broken. Can I take the air inlet duct box out w/o having to take the entire dash apart. It seems that if I remove the fan I would have access to the interior bolt or bolts for mounting the air inlet box. If I can, is there room to pull the box out. Thank you in advance for any info.

Which arm? The door control lever? Maybe it can be glued with some of the newer epoxies? You will have a lot of work to get the whole plenum out...

i had the same trouble with my explorer. wife complained of the cold air. i didn't want to pay $600.00 to $800.00 for the mixing door to be replaced (i heard they don't last long). i opened the glove box and popped the (2) side stops and let the box hang down. i then cut a section out of a heavy duty trash bag around 2ft bigger then the opening (it could even be cut bigger. i then pushed the plastic into the opening and pushed the overlapping plastic evenly above - on sides - and below around the inside of the glove box. i then snapped the box back in place. i had to reach above after i opened the box a few times to re-stuff the plastic. it stopped the air from blowing thru the box and help stop a lot of the air from below. the wife's happier and it does help. good luck

Hi,

I am not getting heat in my 2003 ford explorer. First I replaced the blend door actuator motor and blend door in plenum box with heater treater parts and solved that problem. My blend door actuator had broken. The blower works and the two hoses going to the heater core are hot. I replaced the thermostat and the heater control valve. I also back flushed the heater core. When I back flushed the heater core it flowed fine it did not seem to be restricted. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Nick

does the actuator work now?? it is the most common issue with fords

Roy

Yes the actuator and blend door are working.

hoses are hot, blend door working, thermostat good, ok, i know you flushed the core but it sounds like there is not enough flow to give you heat. take it to a radiator shop and have them flush it with an acid flush to see if they can unclog it.

Roy

Thanks alot I will look into that. I would not have thought of that. I appreciate you responding to my problem.

good luck

Roy

The damper sounds like it does not know what to do. No matter what you set the heater on you get cold air. The temperature gauge is normal. What would the problem be.

It sounds like the blend door is not working. It is what determines where the air flow goes, past the heater or the AC. Start with having that checked.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

From everything I have read on the web it sounds like I have a heater/ac blend problem. There is a somehwhat of a loud clicking noise under the dash and I have no heat but the air works fine. I am a general knowledge repair person and was wondering how can I get a repair manual and how difficult it would be to replace such a thing?

Earnhardt fan and you drive a Ford???? LOL just kidding. What you need to do is remove the sound shields under the dash and locate the source of the clicking. Sounds like the blend door actuator isnt working .Could be the actuator or the door is broken, so once you locate the noise, see if you can watch the center shaft to see if it is turning, may need to remove it and manually try to move the door to see if it changes the temp

Yea I drive a ford but at least its paid off! lol. Do I have to pull the dash in order to get at it?
Is the actuator expensive and where could I get a repair manual to show me how to do it?

Heater problem
2003 Ford Explorer V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

no heat in car when i first turn on yhe heat i hear clicking souds but it goes away but still no heat

The Blend door actuator is N/G. Many people have had the same problem for over 10 years. I am surprised Ford/Lincoln/Mercury have not corrected the problem.
The repair for this is $1000.00+
Ridiculous but true, I hear the whole dash needs to be removed.

If you are mechanically inclined and want to save a lot of money, there is a "Quick Fix" on this problem.
I will send you the link and you can take a peek if you are interested. Just let me know and I will send it right to you.
Sorry for the bad news;
Rick

I would like a link to the quick fix for this problem
thank in advance

i have a2003 exploer i turn the heat on and the fan i hear a flapping noise in the heater box (manual control) is it possible to remove the dashboard to get to the heater assy to repair the door flap

Actually, you should be able to access the vent door from under the dash. You may have to remove the glove box.

NOTE: Because your vehicle has an airbag, I would recommend disconnecting the battery for at least 30 minutes prior to starting any repairs. Air bags can deploy if not handled correctly.

control knob doesn't operate. Just clicks and no heat.

Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module On-demand Self-Test The DATC module on-demand self-test will retrieve on-demand (hard fault) DTCs only, it will not retrieve continuous DTCs. Continuous DTCs can be cleared when exiting the DATC module on-demand self-test. Make sure to retrieve continuous DTCs by carrying out the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module - Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure before clearing any continuous DTCs.  The DATC module on-demand self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.  The DATC module on-demand self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display on-demand (hard fault) DTCs for concerns that are present during the self-test. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4 °C - 38 °C (40 °F - 100 °F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false DTCs may be displayed.  The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when the self-test is activated.  To enter the self-test press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show a flashing blower icon for 20 seconds, after which all vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no on-demand DTCs present. If DTCs are present the DATC module will display "00 00" and then on-demand DTCs. Record all DTCs displayed.  If any DTCs appear during the self-test, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE INDEX and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.  If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.  To exit the self-test and retain all continuous DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The DATC module will exit the self -test and retain all continuous DTCs.  To exit the self-test and clear all continuous DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The DATC module will exit the self-test and all continuous DTCs will be cleared.  Always exit the self -test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the self- test is exited the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the temperature blend door actuators to automatically recalibrate.  Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs. 3/28/2009

Recently when I started the truck up, I heard a clicking noise. Figured out it's coming from behind the dasah board, and now come to find out I have no heat. When it's on the hot section, cool air blows, instead of warm. Any suggestions?? Thanks

Sounds like the blend door actuator inside the dash. This is common with most Ford truck models for several years now.

2003 ford explorer blows cold air everything
or normal engine not runing hot ,temp gauges
normal, nothing making any sound.

Heater Core — Plugged

WARNING: The heater core inlet hose will become too hot to handle if the system is working correctly.

Check to see that the engine coolant is at the correct level.
Start the engine and turn on the heater.
When the engine coolant reaches operating temperature, feel the heater core inlet and outlet hose to see if they are hot.
If the inlet hose is not hot:

the thermostat is not working correctly.
If the outlet hose is not hot:

the heater core may have an air pocket.
the heater core may be restricted or plugged.
If both are hot, the temperature blend door in the heater plenum may be broken or stuck...
Is it auto temp control? or manual?

heat blows strong cold air. continuous clucking noise in dash board when temp selector is on heat. when temp selector is on cold no noise. hot /cold gauge is working correctly.

Unfortunately you very possibly could be another Explorer/Mountaineer owner with a Blend Door Actuator problem.
The repair is BIG $$ ..$1000+ ...and that is no B.S.
A large portion for the repair is labor.
The whole dash needs to be removed. This problem has been going on fo 10+ years and Ford/Lincoln/Mercury has not done on thing to correct the faulty plastic pivot arm.
There "is" a quick fix for it if you can do it yourself and save a lot of money.

Sorry to be the one to give you the bad news.
Here is the link for the quick fix.. it was done on a 1996 but they are all the same. Check out what it states in step: 9 about how much you saved!

https://www.2carpros.com/topics/climate-control/blend-door

Good Luck;
Rick

no heater i put new water pump,new termostat,new heater valve, and new radiator cap and the heater core is good. is very poor coolant circulation ..what can the problem be.

Is the engine running at operating temp
if so
Check heater hoses at the fire wall
if both are hot
suspect blend door in the HVAC box
usually you hear clicking in under the dash

the engine is running at operating temp.the blend door is ok.the problem is poor coolant circulation to the heater hoses.

I have a 2003 Explorer, this morning, the fan was blowing, but no heat coming out....and it is making a clicking noise. Anyone have this problem? Any advice on what to do?? I'd sure appreciate it!
Cheryl

Cheryl, I believe that this is a perennial problem that all Ford Explorers have with the heater door sticking. My 1995 Limited has the same problem! Next time I will buy a quality product like Toyota or Honda since Ford has no interest in correcting problems after years of complaints.
The solution is to switch back and forth between Max A/C and heat until you hear a clunk which is your heater door moving, then you should feel the heat!

That isn't fixing the problem though....


[quote:c39275703b="lemming"]Cheryl, I believe that this is a perennial problem that all Ford Explorers have with the heater door sticking. My 1995 Limited has the same problem! Next time I will buy a quality product like Toyota or Honda since Ford has no interest in correcting problems after years of complaints.
The solution is to switch back and forth between Max A/C and heat until you hear a clunk which is your heater door moving, then you should feel the heat![/quote:c39275703b]

To fix the problem locate the blend door, and spray WD-40 on the pivot points.