Engine assembly

Got it. What are all of the components are changed during a rebuild? I changed my pistons and rings, torque to yield bolts, timing set, water pump, thermostat and housing, belt and pulley, heads, freeze plugs, heater control valve, timing cover, fuel injectors, valve covers, oil and filter, harmonic balancer, engine air filter, oil filter and oil, bearings, gaskets, and I think that’s it. I am wondering about sensors, oil pump, spark plugs and wires, coil pack, electrical connectors, and anything else that I may have missed.

The oil pump is a must as it is the heart of oil pressure.

The sensors are externals and not needed for a rebuild. The rebuild is all the internal components for the operation of the motor itself.

Roy

I read that you can either use Vaseline, assembly lube, or oil to prime the new pump before installation. Which is best and what exactly do I do? Just turn it by hand, right?

Hi,

Vaseline or assembly lube will work. I don't feel oil is the best choice because it will likely drain. However, people do use it.

I have always packed them with Vaseline. The purpose is to create a vacuum when the engine first turns to draw oil into the new pump and into the engine. Once you pack it, install it. You don't need to turn it by hand. Once the engine starts and oil is drawn through it, the Vaseline will dissipate in the engine oil.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and let me know how things turn out for you.

Joe

Where do I pack it in? And which one of these will work better?

Joe uses Vaseline but I had good success with luber plate. Same thing different product.

You take the faceplate off to expose the gears and pack it all around the gears.

Roy

Okay and my head bolts just came in the mail but they look different than my original. I typed in my vin when I was buying them and it deals that they fit. So does the difference matter or did the website just not match me up correctly?

They are fine. You are good.

Roy

Okay, cool. The bolts I have to take off of the new pump to get to the gears inside aren’t torque to yield, are they?

These 4 bolts, right? If so, i got them out but it’s not coming off.

Hi,

That should do it. Tap on it with a plastic/nylon hammer or a rubber mallet. See if it will come apart.

By the way, I am really impressed with how hard you are working on this. Keep up the good work.

Joe

Thank you I appreciate that. You guys have for sure been a very big help. Is it necessary to change the pickup tube too since I can’t really be 100 % sure that I got all of the broken timing chain guide debris out of the screen? Or will cleaning it out with my air compressor suffice?

You can just clean out of all the debris.

No need to replace it unless it is ripped and there is a hole in it.

Roy

I have used a pin to hold the balance shaft in place but no matter what I do it will not align. If I leave it like this the timing will be off, right?

Hi,

Yes, it's a tooth-off. When you do this, is tension removed from the tensioner?

Joe

No, I still had the pin inside of it so it was still tensioned but I removed it thinking maybe that would move it the little bit that it needs to align because if I move it over one tooth then I can’t set the housing flat in the bolt holes.

As Joe said, you are a tooth off. You need to realign the chain to get the correct alignment.

If I move it a tooth over it doesn’t fit in the block. The bolt holes don’t line up with the block.

I hope the video quality is good enough, but here’s a video of what I mean.

What about the other gear? Can I see the alignment of the other gear?

Roy

I just found this on an online forum. So perhaps I need a new timing set.

Which gear? The one on the crank?

Okay.

Did you replace the chain and gears or are they the old ones?

Roy

All of them are new except the crank and balance shaft gears because those two don’t come off. But I fixed it. Apparently my number one piston was not 100% at top dead center. It was at like 99.7%. So, I rotated it just slightly and now everything fits.

Hi,

That's good to hear. I'm glad you got it figured out. If possible, let me know how things progress for you.

Take care,

Joe

Good find.

We are always here if you have any further questions.

Roy

There’s one black link on each chain and I’m assuming it’s there for a reason as a timing mark or something. Where is that black link supposed to sit?

When you set the initial set up for the chain, it or they will go on the timing marks. After you rotate the motor, they will not line up at any other time.

Roy

What are these in my hand? They came with the rear jackshaft plug.

Hi,

To the best of my knowledge, there was an issue with the 4.0L pre-2003 where oil would drain too fast and much from the cylinder heads. The parts in your hand were used to restrict how quickly they drained.

The threaded plug was used to stop oil flow in one of the oil galleries, and the thing that looks like a candle was used to restrict the drain in the cylinder head.

If you look below, that is the only thing we could find related to these parts. Also, note that they appear to come in all timing chain kits for the 4.0L, but they all don't require their use.

If nothing was found when you took things apart, chances are it isn't required on this vehicle.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See attached pic.

Yeah, it came in my timing set in a bag with my rear jackshaft plug but I have a 2003 and didn’t see either when I took it apart. Thanks, that for sure helps a lot. I could not figure it out. I messed up, though. Didn’t damage my crank threads in the removal of my harmonic balancer, but I sure did when trying to hold the crank in place when I was tightening the rear jackshaft bolt. I can use Helicoil, right? If so, do you know what size is required for the crank threads?

Are you able to use a clean-out tap? If the threads are damaged, it will repair them. However, I don't know how bad they are. As far as the size, that is going to be based on the side you drill it to. What to do is this. Take the bolt with you and ask what size drill you should use to clean out the old threads so you can use a Helicoil. Also, when you install the Helicoil, use Loctite so it doesn't come loose. It would be a good idea to use it on the bolt as well.

Make sure to get a size that is closest to the original size.

Let me know if I can do anything to help.

Take care,

Joe

I fixed it. I just put the old bolt in and tightened it. It worked. Can you show me what the timing cover and water pump bolts look like?

Hi,

I don't have actual pics of the bolts. However, there are 12 of them that hold the water pump on. I attached a pic below showing what I have. Also, if I recall, there will be a few longer than the others.

The timing chain cover bolts will be smaller in diameter and shorter in length.

I hope this helps.

Joe

I have the water pump bolts already; it’s just the timing cover bolts that I cannot figure out.

Hi,

I found a pic on eBay showing the bolts for the timing cover. Take a look at the picture and let me know if that helps.

Joe

Thank you. And when timing the roller followers aren’t supposed to be in, right? If so, how do I install them after timing?

Hi,

They have to be installed before you install the camshafts. They are under it and can't be installed after the timing chain has been attached and set.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe

So the Ford tool that compresses the valve springs is only to remove them?