No Spark

At coil is there 12v+ on Dark green/orange at the coil, I would check the ASD relay which are common to go out. Here is a guide and the relay location below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

dark green/orange wire has power momentarily when key is turned on. I put my meter on max read and i got voltages from 8.5 to 11.4 volts. Again--only when key is on at first--no voltage just sitting there.

Hi guys. Excuse me for jumping in here. The voltage is supposed to come back during engine rotation, cranking or running. That one second you saw the 12 volts is to run the fuel pump to be sure pressure is up for starting. When the voltage doesn't reappear during cranking, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor.

I'll go back to the sidelines now and wait to find out what the fix is. Carry on.

caradiodoc

While cranking it seems no voltage--just the key on voltage.

Can I test the sensors? to make sure they are good? I put new ones in from autozone and still no spark.

I never replaced a cam sensor but the crankshaft position sensor's air gap is critical. New Chrysler sensors used to come with a paper spacer stuck to the end. It set the gap and just slid off the first time the engine was cranked. Some aftermarket sensors have a plastic rib molded onto the end that wears off very quickly. That rib sets the gap initially. If that type of sensor is removed and reinstalled, the remaining part of the rib is supposed to be cut off and the paper spacer is used. I used to cut those paper spacers in half and just used one part so I could save the other part to use on another engine. You can get the spacers at the dealer's parts department. I don't know if they're available at other auto parts stores.

I did read where one fellow found that his new sensor was broken because he didn't use a spacer and it hit the outer ring on the flexplate.

I have a '95 Grand Caravan, and until a few months ago, I didn't even know it had a cam sensor. If you want to try to test it and the crank sensor, the feed wire to both will have either 8.0 or 10.0 volts with the ingition switch on. If it is missing, unplug the two sensors and remeasure to see if the voltage comes back. The Engine Computer will shut the power supply down to protect it. You'll have to cycle the ignition switch off and back on to reset it. If the voltage disappears again when one of the sensors is plugged back in, it is shorted.

If the supply voltage is there, measure the ground wires. Expect to find 0.2 volts. If it is a lot higher, look for a break in the wire or a corroded splice. The signal wires are harder to measure with a digital voltmeter because the display will bounce around a lot. If the voltage stays solidly at 0 or 5.0 volts, that sensor is likely not working. A better way to tell if the sensors are working is if you have access to one of the Chrysler scanners, they will display "yes" or "no" for each sensor to indicate if the signals are being received during cranking. I use both the DRB2 and DRB3 scanners. You can find the DRB2 at car show swap meets or on eBay for not too much money. The DRB3 is overkill for most people's needs but they are available over the internet or from the dealer's parts department. The newer models will only work on vehicles back to 1998. To go back further, there is a plug-in card that lets it work on cars back to 1994 and all brands of cars 1996 and newer with the OBD2 emissions system. A different card lets it work on just Chrysler products back to 1983 models. The DRB2 uses plug-in cartridges which are different for most years. The last "Supercartridge" covered all years of all domestic cars and trucks up to 1994 models, but that '94 cartridge works fine on my '95 Caravan.

I'll hand you back to Docfixit. I didn't mean to butt into your conversation. Just wanted to add a little info so you had something to check while waiting for his reply.

caradiodoc

I will be back at it in a few 3-days days and will post the results. Note--the new crank sensor i put in didn't seem to tear the paper off--I think I didn't get it down far enough. And the old sensor looked like it had been too close to the ring gear(or what ever it is in there). Thank You.

In engine compartment box find ASD relay also fuel pump relay. Swap relays if you get spark then replace ASD relay.

I put in a new crank sensor again--and this time i pushed way down to make sure the paper spacer would rip off and then have proper clearance--BUT there was still no spark.

I then traced the wires from the crank sensor to check for the obvious. Found engine harness oil soaked and tie-wraped with a plastic tie by oil pan and started had wires tied tight--so i removed tie wrap and exposed harness and cleaned oil--and while cleaning i had my brother in law try to start and it fired up.

I think the "gray/Purple" wire from the crank sensor was shorting in metal by oil pan from being tied to tight. The wire looks and feels smashed--but I dicided not to splice and repair because didnt know if it would take a splice ok due to it being low voltage--so I left it alone since it was now working.

I loosely secured wires and harness. All ok.

Note: I originally Donated $15.00 for a fast response, but I got better response and help from the free side of this site. Don't mind supporting this site, but its a shame that when you donate you don't get prioity and better help--got send a JPG pic of a wire diagram that was a joke--could read it, even after emailed to me.

Thanks all.

the last time the van started it was very hard to start and ran very ruff and bacfired, now it does not startat all. the fuel pump was changed as well as fuel filter.

A broken chain would cause loss of spark. However, you would know if it broke when cranking. It would turn faster than normal and sound odd. Check for power to the coil and check crank sensor. If you already have, let me know what size engine it is.

1992 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive 112565 miles

I just replaced my fuel pump and then crank sensor and cam sensor and now i have no spark also there was a problem with a short my friend spliced the wires from the cam sensor so now there there is no connector so now it wont get any spark and possibly no fuel delivery can u please please please help thanks

what do you have for engine size ?

b4 the problem started my vehicle overheated, but not to the point of it boiling over, just were the light came on as it got to the hot symbol, i got it to a friends house close by. a mechanic went to it told it might be the fuel pump, so i replaced the fuel pump & the filter & the relay. still doesn't want to crank over. the spark plugs and wires are good, but can't tell if it's the sending unit or the distributor tht is giving me the problem. Please Help Me!

97 Caravan 3.0 V6 3spd - I have no spark and apparently no power to coil. Here is the full story. I got this van with a blown timing belt. Replaced belt and water pump and test started and it worked. Pulled engine and trans out to repair some other damage. Put it all back in and now no spark. Replaced distributor cap and rotor, all plug wires and spark plugs (and have triple checked for correct connections). HELP, PLEASE!!!

Measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire at the ignition coil, any injector, or either small wire on the back of the alternator. You should see battery voltage there for one second after turning on the ignition switch. What you need to see is if that voltage comes back during engine rotation, (cranking or running).

I saw that you had replied to another post with a similar issue. I will try this tomorrow. Once I run the voltage check, what would be the next step, assuming I still have no spark? If possible give me a few other specifics to look for so I can do it all at once and in order.

That voltage comes from the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay which is turned on by the Engine Computer. The computer also turns on the fuel pump relay at the same times. That initial one second is to insure fuel pressure is up and ready for starting in case it bled down over a few days or weeks.

After that first one second, the computer turns the ASD relay on again when it gets pulses from the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor. The purpose of the system is to turn off the fuel pump in the event of a crash that ruptures a fuel line. The engine will stall with no fuel pressure so there won't be any pulses from the cam and crank sensors. With no pulses, the fuel pump is turned off to prevent dumping raw fuel on the ground. This system is WAY more reliable and effective than Ford's inertia switch. The alternator field, injectors, ignition coil(s), and oxygen sensor heaters all get their current from the same source so all of those systems go dead when the ASD relay doesn't turn on.

Since you had stuff apart, be sure both sensors are plugged in. Also, a thick paper spacer must be used to set the air gap of the crank sensor. Without it, the sensor can be pushed in too far where it will hit the flex plate and break. If it's spaced out too far, the pulses will be weak and can cause intermittent stalling. If you reinstall an aftermarket sensor that had a thin plastic rib molded to the end to set the gap, you are to cut the remaining part of that rib off and use a paper spacer.

Electrical problem
1992 Dodge Caravan Engine Size unknown 140000 miles
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no spark replaced module beside battery,still no spark,gets fuel

[quote:9eddd0b2dc="gene1988"]Electrical problem
1992 Dodge Caravan Engine Size unknown 140000 miles
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no spark replaced module beside battery,still no spark,gets fuel[/quote:9eddd0b2dc]
engine size ???
did you check/replace the crankshaft sensor
Crankshaft sensor is mounted on tranny bell housing
computer use it signal for ignition signal and spark timing

3.3 v-6.i checked to see if current was coming to coil,it isnt ill check crank shaft sensor thnaks

[quote:3f9a47d339="gene1988"]3.3 v-6.i checked to see if current was coming to coil,it isnt ill check crank shaft sensor thnaks[/quote:3f9a47d339]


ASD relay will supply the power to coil
it depand on the crank sensor

asd relay where is it located on vehicle thanks

Auto shutdown relay is at the fender left side

check /replace the crank sensor

thanks that fixed it

I have dodge caravan 97 3.0 the is thereno spark going through the plugs but there is fire in the control wires to coil is there fire there when the key switch on? because there on fire when im cranking the engine and where can i find the tranmission control module what does it look like where is i located.im not sure but i believe the the control wire for the coil is not sending enough power to fire the plugs or the pcm is not getting signal from crank shaft sensor.

My head is spinning. You need to use some punctuation so the sentences make sense. Also, by "fire" do you mean "voltage" or are some wires melting or overheating? There will not be any voltage to the coil unless the engine is rotating, (cranking or running).

Have you checked for fuel pressure? There are three separate but related systems. Most no-start problems are caused by the trigger circuit that turns on the ignition coil, injectors, and the fuel pump.

caradiodoc

ok sorry yeah votage.and where do i find the trigger circuit? how do i check it/ and one more question if the timing belt was broke and i cranked the engine could have messed the heads up?

And no i didnt the fuel pressure i will tomarrow.

The ASD relay run those three thing but the ful pump comes on for about 5 seconds the goes off.I check the relays

The 3.0L is not an interference engine so the valves won't be damaged.

The trigger circuit is the optical pickup assembly in the distributor, (camshaft position sensor), and the crankshaft position sensor. He lives in the transmission housing right behind the rear cylinder head, close to the firewall. When pulses arrive from those two sensors, the Engine Computer knows the engine is rotating so it turns on the automatic shutdown relay and the fuel pump relay. The ASD relay sends voltage to the ignition coil, injectors, alternator field, and oxygen sensor heaters.

You know the fuel pump circuit is working because you can hear it run for a few seconds. The ASD relay should be turning on at the same time. Use a test light or digital voltmeter to measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire in the connector for the ignition coil, an injector, or either of the small terminals on the back of the alternator. You should see 12 volts for one second after turning on the ignition switch. What's important is it must come back as soon as you start cranking the engine.

caradiodoc

OK i put a new crankshaft position sensor so i that works i also changed the camshaft position sensor. and yes i hear the fuel pump soon as turn the key to the on position then it stops. and so yours saying the ignition coil,injector and alternater should have 12 volts at each of them for one second rite? then as im cranking the engine it should be 12 in each items?

i have a 1989 dodge caravan 2.5l tbi van, and last night it just quit while driving down the road. so i had it towed home on a trailer.
i determined it wasn't getting any spark ( i checked the spark from the sparkplug wire to ground. and then from the coil to ground, and there was no spark). so i replaced the coil, and it is still the same. i also checked all of the fuses inside the van, and they were fine.
i am not so sure how to make sure it is getting the right power, or volts to the coil? or if it could be something totally different?
any help would be appreciated. thank you.

See if the distributor turns when your cranking it, the timing belt may have broke, the rubber teeth get stripped. Also you can use your 'check engine' light to check for fault codes. You turn the key to on, off, on, off, on and wait, the check engine light will flash. a short flash followed by a pause and two flashes would be a 12. Each code number means something else. Also the fuse links are located under the hood, follow the battery positive cable as it travels towards the left strut you'll see a bunch of taped up fusible links, these are the engine compartments fuses. You'll need a 6-12 volt test light.

Yup. 12 volts for one second at key-on, and 12 volts again during cranking.

Have you checked for stored diagnostic fault codes? Cycle the ignition switch 3 times from "off" to "run" within 5 seconds, then, on older cars you have to count the flashes of the Check Engine light. I think by '97 the codes are displayed in the digital odometer display. There should be a code if the Engine Computer detected the missing pulses from the cam or crank sensor.

Be aware too that a spacer is needed to set the air gap of the crankshaft position sensor. Original sensors use a thick paper spacer stuck to the end, then you push the sensor in as far as it will go. The spacer will slide off when the engine is started. You can get new ones from the dealer's parts department.

Some aftermarket sensors have a thin plastic rib molded on the end to set the gap. That rib partially wears away over time. To remove and reinstall that type of sensor you are supposed to cut the remaining rib off, then use the paper spacer.

In some cases, failure to use a spacer could cause the sensor to break from being hit by the ring on the torque converter.

caradiodoc

i had put the question on earlier in the day, and later got a chance to check the van out some more. however i just now actually got time to sit, and rest from a long day. so i just got to see your reply.
i was tracking the no spark problem, and realized the rotor in the distributor wasn't turning (was looking at the pickup coil) so i took the 2 bolts off of the top belt cover, and seen it was broken (actually pulled it out easily). so it was the belt.
i wanted to take the time to thank you ch112063 for taking the time to reply. your ideas were right on the money! thanks again.

ok will do. i put the dianostic code reader it p0443 something about evap proportional purge solenoid that wouldnt stop it from starting would it? and ima check that crankshaft sensor the first one took had nothing on it. and the first thing that dont have 12 volts that when i start there trace my way back

That is fine, I am just glad you didn't have to waste the time looking further the way I did when I first started working with Chrysler at a Dodge dealership. If you need any further advice, anytime. Your very welcome, its 2carpros idea, I just visit to see if I can help since most of my experience was with Chrysler and I owned many just like yours(2.2l though). Have a good day and good luck, the belt teeth get wiped out, it looks ok but the crankshaft sprocket just spins while the belt sits there. This is usually the way they come in.

Hey i mad i little progress today the timing mark was set wrong on my timing belt i fix that now it getting spark but wont start backfire threw the plenum all i did was slide cranshaft sensor up its tryna start i lined everthing up everything number 1 at tdc and the rotor button over top of number 1 plug still back firing and but wont start whats my next step?

If you did that, the rotor is off by 90 degrees. If you look at the terminals under the cap, you'll see the tunnels where the conductors go to the terminals on top of the cap. They aren't straight above each other. That was done to make the plug wires look pretty by being in nice straight rows next to each other.

caradiodoc

ok tho i set it under number plug when i put the timing belt i put it over top of put 1 i took the distributer up and twisted the rotor to the number 1 plug does that mean she still it off by 90 degrees if that doesnt work what my next step