My engine cranks over but not run can you help?

Hello,

This could be a problem with your ignition control module. In the diagrams down below I have included for you a factory Troubleshooting Flowchart Guide for you to go through. It will take you step by step on what to test and test for to find out what is going on with your ignition system. The tests are straight forward and only require a test light, Multi-meter, and a spark tester. Please go through it and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

2.47 on ignition module 4.79 on harness on one.

Found a white wire with a thin black stripe dis connected from a pig tail on driver side coming out of cab.

Just replaced primary coil. still nothing.

Hello again,

In your original post when you said that you replaced the terminal because they were beat up, what terminals were you referring to?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

The battery terminals.

I meant they.

Hello again,

What did you get for the readings on your tests?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Figure 11 I got 2.47 ohms figure 10 wiring harness I got4.79 ohms.

Hello again,

Okay, fig. 10 was wanting you to check for voltage at pins 2,3,and 4 of the ignition control module connector. Have the negative probe(Black) connected to the base of the distributor. Unhook the "S" wire from the starter solenoid. If the voltage at each pin is 11 volts - 12.6 volts then go to next text. If the voltage at any one of the three pins, 2,3,or 4 is less than 11 volts then check for worn connector or wiring. Repair as necessary. Do this test for me and get back to us with what you find out please.

Thank you,
Alex
2CarPros
.

It was the fuel pump (defective) thank you.

Had a misfire in engine. Changed coil, TFI, EEC and MAP sensors. No help. Did full tuneup, would not start unless I unplugged the MAP, then would run 1700 rpm's, very sluggish. Run code reader, came up 22, MAP sensor "out of range". Changed distributor, now the EEC and fuel sensors don't " click" when key is turned. Any ideas?
I turn the key on, dash lights work, starter cranks engine but does not fire. I tried to read the codes again. I hooked the reader to the test plug, turned the key on, turned the reader on and nothing happened. The first time I read the codes, the systems clicked and read the codes. 2nd time, the system did not click and the reader would not function.

Let check for spark at the plugs. here is a guide to help us get started:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Also will it run on starting fluid?

Figured it out. The new catalyst converter came apart and plugged up, causing the problem. While diagnosing this problem, the timing chain jumped.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Turns over just fine but won’t start. It has a brand new fuel sending unit and fuel pump I can hear the pump when I turn the accessories on, I checked for spark and it does have spark. Tried resetting the inertia switch but still nothing all the hoses look good as I was thinking it could be a air leak problem but haven’t found any issue yet, cleaned every ground wire I could find and check all the fuses and everything looks fine no burnt out fuses and no melted or corroded wires. I’m officially stumped please help.

Hi,

The first thing I suggest is to check for diagnostic trouble codes. On this vehicle, you don't need a scanner. All that is needed is a basic test light. Here is a link that explains how to get the codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

If you have spark and fuel, it should run unless something has cause low compression or a timing issue, which in this case sounds unlikely. So, do me a favor. See if it starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then we know if it is a fuel related issue. Even though you hear the pump, it may not be producing enough pressure or there could be a sensor issue preventing the injectors from working.

If it does start, then you need to confirm fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Here is a link that explains how that is done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If fuel pressure is good, then we may have lost the fuel injector pulse. You will need a noid or test light to test for an injection pulse. Here is a link that explains how to check injectors.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Okay. if none of that works, let me know. I will explain what to check next.

Take care and if possible, let me know what you have found or if you have other questions.
Joe

She’s running again, thanks for the help.

Happy to help. What did you find?

Joe

Replaced the ignition coil, fuel pump relay and the ignition starter switch and it fired right up. not sure what the issue was but if I had to put my money on anything I’d have to say it was the fuel pump relay.

Regardless, I'm glad it's running. The funny thing is, the part you suspect was the cheapest and easiest thing. That sounds like the kind of luck I would have. LOL

Take care and I hope you have a safe and happy new year.

Joe

I bought some gas with water in it. I found this out when my truck would not start. Replaced the fuel filter and added water remover to the gas tank, It would run but was very rough. The tank finally needed to be refilled so I put a tank of premium in it. Fifty miles later, then truck stalled and died while going uphill on a freeway. Once home, I changed the cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, and the positive cable to the battery terminal. Sounds like it wants to start but does not quite get there. Anything else i can check before the mechanic comes here tomorrow?

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge, probably a bad pump not giving enough pressure.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Hi PURPLEPIANO,

Here is a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself, also I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning. Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

Thanks so much. The mechanic came out, and the trouble was really corroded cables. He cleaned them up easily, and now the truck is running again.

Happy to hear the problem was solved. Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.

Renee
Admin

Well at first the car was overheating and was losing radiator fluid, but could not find the leak and was white smoke coming out of exhaust. Changed the water pump, and fuel filter, also did radiator flush. That seemed to resolve the leak, but truck still will not start. Changed spark plugs, wires, starter solenoid, and got a new battery. When I tried to start, it appeared to want to start, but then noticed, which was not happening before. Coolant was in my oil. Could this be my intake manifold gasket? Or maybe a blown head gasket? I did not have coolant in oil, until I tried to start this last time.

Good afternoon.

Most likely you have a blown head gasket leaking water into the combustion chamber. That is why it will not start. Water doe not burns yet in our engines.

The coolant in the oil is a problem as well. Once it hits the main and rod bearings, damage will result.

Your best solution is to either replace the engine with a used or rebuilt unit or replace the truck.

Roy

Well am not using waters, and was running, before. I just wanted to stop the over heating issue. I just noticed when I drained the oil. Coolant came out also. Just did an oil change with all this work I just did and no coolant was in the oil. So still a blown head gasket or replace motor? I did use some water before, when over heating, but changed to 5050. But after I decided to change the water pump. I did an oil change. It looks normal the oil. Have not driven since, because it would not start. It turns over but no start. So from trying to start it all this happened or do you think the head gasket was blown before this, because of over heating and white smoke?

The head gasket failure is a result of overheating not the cause.

The white smoke means you have coolant in the cylinders. That is from the blown head gasket.

It will be an expensive repair. Considering the age of the truck, you may want to consider replacing the engine with a used one.

Roy

Hey, I have a 1988 ford ranger and it just won`t fire. What happened was I backed into a ditch going backwards down a street and it just cut off. Then when i tried to start it, it just turns over and wouldn`t fire. But of course I take it to a mechanic in this little town I live in and they unhooked the ignition and only god knows what else and then expected me to pay for it when they couldn`t fix it. The fuel pump is working but they said that no fuel was getting into the ignition. Me and a couple buddies tried to put some wires together in the ignition to try to start it today, we had it hooked up to another car with jumper cables just to make sure. I don`t know if the batteries so dead or what but it made some grinding noise like the battery isnt dead. but we let it sit there hooked up to the other car for about 15 min and still not turning over. Any hints or help to what I can do?

There is an emergency fuel cut off called an Inertia switch. Pull back the top off the carpet on the passenger side floor. Locate the switch and push the red button on top, down.

I tried that the first day it stopped working. Although the red button was not under the carpet, it was under the dash on the passenger side. Maybe the button is defective? Or is there another button that I am not finding?

You may have a bad pump. it needs to be tested.

I heard the buzzing while trying to start it earlier, right now I can`t check since the battery is completely dead and not able to hook it back up. But I looked at the inertia switch and it looks like the mechanic took it out and wired it together while there.

I have a 1987 ford ranger 2.3L with 70,000 miles. will not start. getting spark to spark plugs, fuel presser is 40 psi. no power going to the injectors, replace computer. still no power. i really need help on this please.

hey is there any power at all from the battery such as being able to listen to the radio and operate the lights and stuff ??????

If there is then you have a problem.......
If there is no power reaching the accessories then check your power relay center fuse box its under the hood
then on that check the positive and negative wiring running to and from the box.....Because a engine along with the radio and stuff will not run if your wiring is loose from there.....check this guide out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

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the head lights work and the radio works. thanks for the info. it still not get power to the injectors

sorry I don't know what to tell you just out of the top of my head cause I would have to see it to know exactly what it is
all I know is that your car has a big problem and id take it to a good mechanic that you can trust

I changed the motor in my 1986 ford ranger xl 2.3 5 speed. But now it will turn off but will not start. Timing is correct so what else could be the problem. Will turn over but won't start. I changed the whole motor it' a 1989 engine.