Timing chain replacement

Upon another two revolutions the opposite r bank exhaust and left bank intake line up.

They never all four cams line up on marks again at the same time.

More I search, I am beginning to believe I have a bad Intake VVT sprocket on bank 2.

Yep, they go bad I would do all four so you are not taking it apart again. The timing chain look good to me I would run it.

Okay, have new VVT's installed, chain on every thing is lined up good. Getting ready to put tension wrench on VVT's but not sure, do I remove cam locking block before I put VVT tool on and turn? The picture steps do not say anything thing about the the cam holding tool after you install it on cams?
Thanks, Mark

The VVT's should be tight in the camshafts before installing the chain. Then back the actuators all the way back then install the cam tool and chain while lining everything up.

Okay, going to button it up, I will let u know how ends. ; )

:) good times

One more guesting, do not quite understand the 16mm washer on the crank bolt on install. Is this something that stays on pulley once installed?

Hmm, not sure what you are talking about. Can you upload a picture?

It is in the last picture on the install you sent me but the bolt I have has a washer built in to it (cap bolt style)
Anyway, I am past that. Fired it up today fired right off, runs good and quiet, but I have codes p0018 and p0019. I cannot get to go away. : > (

On left bank.

These are camshaft correlation codes. It means we are off a little or you may have an electrical connector in the wrong place I have seen where the coolant sensor and camshaft actuator plugs get mixed up causing the code. Can you make sure all camshaft actuator oil control valves have the correct connector on them?

I will check but I am sure the plugs are correct. I am still on the fence about the printout I showed you of the timing marks especially the left bank. All three cams lined exactly like the printed photoelectric except that left baking intake, all. 6 points on chains were on the marks but that sprocket face plate was not. Not even on the new one. Does not look like picture.

I sent a video about the actuator question from last week, this puzzles me. The mark on the chain is on the mark on sprocket but on wrong side of face plate.

Hi Mark,

It looks like you have found the problem, you say the old actuator looked the same? Did it have these codes before and when it did run did it run okay both before and after? The video really helps. btw.

Yes, the codes where present before. The new one installed the same.

Also with exhaust cam in correct place LH the number of chain links from one mark to the next are to many to put the exhaust cam mark on the other side of the tab. That is why I went the marks on chain lining up with marks on actuators. So what is the problem?

Not sure, I am looking at the video you sent and the diagrams from the manual they both show actuator in a different place than what you have. Did the engine run okay? The sensor will never be happy with the actuator timer being that far off.

Well, before I got it, it was extremely noisy (old style cassettes and tenioners) I think the chain must have skipped on that LH bank, but the new actuator (VVT) looked the same plus I never moved anything without a chain on or cam locking tool in back. Even then all chain marks fell in line with timing marks.

I guess I will disassemble that side again in on TDC and see where it has landed, and send you a video.

With that being said no one is perfect. If I was one link off on the bottom around crank would that give the effect of starting good, runs quite, but adjusters cannot compensate? And give those codes?

Oh yes, if you are one tooth off it will make the code and the actuators will try and compensate. Please send the video when done. Please hang in there we will get this right.

Okay, I will do it, has been a bear. But I always prevail. I know it has to be something simple, even though the adjusters do not look right it runs good.
Video to come. Thanks for your patience Ken.

We will get it fixed. Have a good weekend.

Yep.

Yep, one link off looks that way to me as well. Let try it with the links moved one, sorry this is kind of a learning experience like most car repair.

Hope, it looks right.

Success!

My man! nice work mark, we both learned something on this one. Glad you got it fixed I knew we would win. :)

Hoping this was put to bed. I have one strange thing that has popped up occasionally, I do not remember the code right now but , it said that cylinders 2, 4, 6, 8 LH misfire. It runs great. It only appeared twice and it was at an idle after a long drive. Is there a sensor that controls all four cylinders (intake sensor)? Something on the bank maybe loose or going bad?
Thanks, Mark

Those coil share a ground and if it grounds to the valve cover (most do) the cover must have its ground on as well. It sounds like it is loose/dirty? If I can get the code number it will help.

P0302
P0304
P0306
P0308
P0300
P0316 - Misfire detected first 100 revolutions

Yes, definitely one side of the engine. At least there are no p0012, p0011 codes. Still sounds like a grounding issue to me for the coils. Here are the engine wiring diagram and a guide to help you test the grounds. Is the main ground strap from the battery to the block and then to the frame in good shape all connected?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Grounds are good, another possibility?

Ken, I going to throw something out here; is it possible that the seals on injectors 2, 4, 6, 8 are leaking? Would that cause the misfire? I did not replace them but did use tool to reinsert them.

Oh yes, big time, leaking vacuum at the seal will cause these codes.

I think I am going to start there because I noticed a slight sound at idle that sounds like a small exhaust leak, but I know there is not one.

Yep, sounds good. Let me know how it goes. Sorry for the slow response I was out for a few days. :)

That is cool, everybody needs a break. Do you know of a site I could buy those Teflon seals reasonable?