Clunking, banging, shaking and feels like the tire is going to come off

Hi,

Is it loud enough for you to record and upload for me to hear? Also, have you checked the engine and trans mounts? You could have one broken.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-motor-mount-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/vibration-noise

Let me know if what you are experiencing seems to mirror what is in the links above. If you can, open the hood. Have a helper shift through the gears while you watch for excessive movement in the motor when shifting.

Try that and let me know what you find.


Joe

I'll will take a video best way to see and hear what's happening. None of those ..Just to note before this happened there was zero issues with car. No noises no vibrations no shims or shakes . It happened overnight. It's not the mounts, misfire etc. When car is on there is no vibrations, no engine movement and or transmission moving or shaking. When turning steering wheel in idle there is zero noise. When driving The noise sounds and feels like it's coming from under feet or near inner part of wheel. Same thing when shift from drive to reverse or reverse to drive ect in idle. I When I installed the new CV I noticed the joint on plunger side completely pulled out but went back in. Could it be the new CV is faulty?

This is just shifting gear. You can hear that clunk. When driving that noise sounds rapid and 20 times louder. Mostly when turning the wheel. That shaft has no movement but the plunger side of CV jumps even the housing moves. I couldn't take a video while driving.

Sorry for posting so much but I have a update. I changed the CV and it's no longer making that noise when shifting gears. But when at idle turning wheel it does that clunking banging noise. I shortened tie rod and at idle it stopped for most part . But still makes the noise at time when turning wheel. I had sister boyfriend get behind wheel and turn it slowly and let off break and give very little gas. He only moved few inches before The whole engine, transmission jumped. So it looks like the mounts are bad plus the CV which I replaced plus alignment is really off. I think that might be what's wrong.

Hi,

If the engine jumped, make sure the mounts are good. I watched the video above, and there is a lot of movement when shifting. I'm not sure what you mean by the plunger side of the CV joint. Are you referring to the inner joint?

Let me know. Also, let me know if you find any of the mounts broken. If possible, record the sound you hear when turning.

Joe

Here is whole story from start to finish. I should of started with this. I will record a better video now I have someone to help me. By plunger I mean the inner joint. More details I forgot to include. It all started when driving home. I was turning left and the wheel didn't return it kept turning. I get home and look at right side and saw outer tie rod is bad. I replaced Inner and outer right tie rod. I saw sway bar link was snapped. I drove to shop and started to hear a very faint banging that got progressively worse. After having sway bar link replaced it got worse. I get the car home and I replaced Inner and outer tie rod on left side and still happening. When at dead stop and turning going no more then 5 mph it clunks and bangs. Even when going straight it vibrates. Now at complete stop and turning the wheel it was clunking and popping. When I shortened tie rod ends on left side that popping banging stopped for most part..When shifting gear it would jump and make same noises. I replaced left CV and now it is no longer making noise when shifting. When you start to turn wheel and move just a few mph it makes that loud banging clunking noise. When this happens the entire engine jolts forward and backwards it does look like mounts are bad. I thought it would help if you knew everything start to finish my bad for not starting off with all this first. I will also include video ASAP.

Lower Front left engine side this one has gone for years.

Sorry got it backwards facing car this photo is lower left transmission side other photo is lower right engine side.

At 8 seconds in it makes the noise you will see engine jump. The clunk you hear sounds a lot louder in person and is very rapid. In video car was barely moving 1 mph. Steering wheel was turned.

Hi,

I watched the video. It really seems like you have a bad CV joint causing it to jump like that. I realize you replaced the left one, but have you inspected the right one? Also, are the splines on the axle fully seated?

That is what I would be checking. If you find the axle/CV joint is the issue, here is a link that shows in general how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

If you look at the attachments below, they include the directions and pics specific to your vehicle for replacement.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

I will double check the left to make sure it seated. I did check the right side and there is no sign it's bad. But again neither did the left side. So I'll just replace it. Motor mounts are cheap so might as just replace them to since I want to keep it for another 2 years or longer.

Hi,

The way it sounded and acted made me think a joint or one of the splines jumping and banging. That didn't look like a motor mount, but it still would be a good idea to check.

If you have a chance, let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

I can't find a replacement set ring for intermediate shaft. I am not sure what size or what else I can use.

When I shift you will hear minor knock and see slight movement with engine. Right as I start to turn wheel you will see engine lift forward. Oil pan is in front of inner joint.

Alternator is hitting . The video I sent you see the engine lifting when turning wheel. I redid CV and it still clunks but not as loud or as much.

Hi,

The entire engine/transmission has to be moving for the alt to hit and it looks like the axle is hitting or nearly hitting the control arm.

Take a look at the pics below. Check these things and let me know if you find anything broken, missing bolts, or loose.

As far as the set ring, that may be a hard find. Have you tried the dealership? Did you lose the original one?

Joe

this motor mount is no good. This is how it came out. When I was taking this mount off I was able to move the engine back and forth With very very little force.

I forgot to mention I haven't look closely at the others. I do know the lower left engine side is gone. The lower right trans side is cracked through.

So I think it's fixed. I installed lower front engine mount. I also found upper mount wasn't fully tighten. I did timing belt couple months ago and forget to torque them to spec. I tested car in driveway to neighbor driveway going forward and reverse and turning wheel fully both way with no noise. Once I fix my alignment I can do a real test drive. So it looks like the lower front transmission mount cracked all the way, since the lower engine mount was gone engine dropped slightly and caused a lot of movement. In turn it caused cv to bind and make a lot of noise. The original CV axle was bad. The first 2 replacement where defective. So it looks to be a whole mess of things going wrong in a row. Also me making a mistake and not double checking my work. Now I don't know for sure, but this was the first time it make zero noise when testing in driveway to neighbor drive forward/ reverse and turning wheel both ways fully and stomping gas and then brakes.. I should know in a few days when I do a at home alignment if it's truly fixed. Also the rest of the motor mounts are in good condition. Only the 2 front lower where bad and the 2 nuts on top engine mount loose.

I think you have found the problems. I don't think I've ever seen a mount as bad as the one you attached. The engine and transmission are moving all over the place.

As far as the one on the trans side, replace it and any other ones that are bad. Let me know if you need help with anything. If you have a chance, let me know the outcome.

Take care,

Joe

I don't want to tow car to get alignment just incase it isn't fixed. I rather do a home alignment, test drive then get it done if all is well. I let a friend help who doesn't know much. He just told me he turned steering wheel when everything was disconnected. He kept putting it back to center . He also said he adjust the tie rod when i got something from inside. So everything is off. I was able to find the old inner outer tie rods . They are same brand same everything. I matched the tread count as a starting point but steering is extremely off. Lock to lock it's roughly 3.3 turn roughly so 1.65 to 1.70 I think it should be 3.25 if I remember so rack is not off to much if at all. Any tips on getting everything lined up. I've done alignment at home couple if times and never had a issue.

As far as an alignment, I honestly never did one at home. I've always had the vehicle on an alignment rack, so I'm not sure what to tell you.

I'm glad to hear you got the mounts taken care of. I don't think I've ever seen one as bad as the one in the pic you sent.

Regardless, if you have a chance, let me know how it drives after the alignment. I'm interested in knowing.

I did break pads on right side. I adjusted tie rods and it started to do it again. I was paying a lot of attention to the left I over looked the right side. It looks like the upper control arm is bad. Plus the lower ball joint . It's looks like the tire is rubbing also I noticed the brake shield was hitting nut for ball joint. You think that can be part of the problem the tire is shifting forward and causing things to rub and making the knock.

Also something very weird happened after I dropped car; I started to turn wheel right the car started to roll . I'm not talking about just a little movement from turning wheel. it actually was rolling about 6 inches maybe 8.

I shortened and edited the video and brought up sound . It's only 2 seconds long. You can really hear the noise now . It almost sounds metallic like something is hitting or causing exhaust to move.

I do hear it. It does sound like a metallic sound but more like thin metal. Is anything hitting the backing plate behind the rotor? Also, you mentioned the control arm and a ball joint. What did you do to check it?

Let me know.

Joe

Actually it was hitting the bolt for ball joint. . But after bending back still made same noise. There both dry rotted and cracked. When I intentionally shorted tie rods on both sides the noises almost completely stop. It's almost like the car is over steering even though it's not.

After taking step back and thinking. I think it might be a case of cause and effect. Wheel cut while turning so I replaced right inner and outer tie rods. I noticed sway bar link broken. Car started to make noises. The drive to mechanic to replace it got worse. I replaced left inner and outer and did nothing but make it worse. I replace tie rods alignment is way off. The Off alignment pulls to much on left axle pulling inner joint out . Off steering is causing binding which was causing engine to jump. Motor mount was bad. Car was fine before tie rods and sway bar link after it wasn't. It almost seems like just the sway bar link was issue but by doing inner and outer tie rods and not getting alignment caused everything else that was worn to go completely. I'm going try to put it to the test today.

Hi,

That makes sense. Interestingly, when you were fixing some things, the other problems because more prominent.

Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,
Joe

I think it's the intermediate shaft or a worn hub. It almost seems like when there is pressure out on it , it jumps and tooth on spindle.

Hi,

As much as it's moving, anything is possible. When you check it, do me a favor. Safely lift one wheel off the ground about 6 inches. Place a long pry bar between the ground and the bottom of the tire and move it up and down. See if there is play or any noise. You could even have a ball joint ready to fall out.

Let me know.

Joe

I'll try that. I forgot to do that when I had car up. Before this happened 99 percent of car was original that's why it's so hard to diagnose. Everything and anything can be causing issues.

Just take your time. Anything that deals with steering, suspension, brakes, and so on can be dangerous. Make sure there is no play left and right as well to confirm the tie-rods are good.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

When I did the inner tie rods I never replaced the boots until I knew car was fixed. When I was jacking up right side I noticed half way up the inner tie rods was flexing/bending and tire seems to take longer to get off ground. Can a blown strut/mount cause these issues including CVto act up or seems like it's acting up?

Hi,

If the inner tie rod is flexing, there has to be a good bit of downward pressure being placed on it. Are you sure the strut assembly is still attached specifically at the top mount?

Something sounds broken. If possible, can you take a video showing what you see and upload it for me?

Let me know.

Joe

I checked the right side and there is no play. But when I dropped car and rolled back and forth in drive way the car rolled forward again. It's almost like it was bump steering. Just looking at at the ball joint and upper control you can tell there bad. Grease is coming out and boots are cracked. The strut assembly might be shot also . I'm just going to grab my old phone out it under car under each axle facing inward and outward and take 4 videos. That should help isolate where the issues are. I'm just not sure what do you think. Can a bad hub cause axle to bind and cause inner CV to jump and skip on intermediate shaft? Also one photo from past post you can see in front lower wheel well tire wore a groove into it. That is on the right side.

Hi,

I did notice that. I didn't mention it because that can happen if the tire size was changed to a larger size.

The best thing to do at this point is to get a prybar and see what moves. Grab the axles and see if anything is moving when you apply a lot of pressure back and forth.

I will wait for the videos.

Take care,

Joe

Tire size hadn't changed, it's all stock.. I don't recall ever seeing that at least in the past 2 months. I guess tomorrow I'll just get something and pry around tug and pull on everything. If I can't figure it out I will just go to this shop around the corner to my house and see if I can get them to do a house call.

The suspension seems fine. There is no signs that it's blown or broken Tomorrow when I check everything again I'll take photos and videos of everything Important.

Hi,

Let me know. I'm interested in knowing. If the tire size is original, something is either allowing the tire to reach the inner fender, or the inner fender is loose and making contact with the tire.

I'm really interested in knowing what you find. I wish I was there to help.

Take care,

Joe