Crankshaft position sensor replacement?

Hello,

Crankshaft sensor replacement can be replaced by just removing the starter to have access, no need to turn the engine on TDC.
yes you need scan tool to perform crankshaft sensor learning procedure,

check the procedure below at pictures attached how to replace crankshaft sensor and how to perform learning by using scan tool.

Let us know if you need more help.

Thank you.

So have you ever heard of anything like this? I have been trying to research this because if I had the money to have it done I would but that is why I am trying to do it myself without the ability to get a scan tool to use to perform the relearn procedure.
Total Car Diagnostics › Article › View
Crank Relearn Instructions (With and Without an OBD Scanner/Reader) | Car ...
Mar 19, 2016 — Turn off all of the accessories. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 mph at part throttle. Cruise at 55 mph for another 5-6 minutes. Decelerate to 45 mph without using the brakes, and maintain 45 mph for 1 minute. Perform 4 deceleration cycles, without using the brakes, of 25 seconds each where no specific speed is necessary.

hello,

you can try to perform the procedure nothing to lose, but you can't be sure if certain conditions are met, the scan tool monitors certain components signal to determine if all the conditions are met to continue the procedure.

That's what I kind of figured but it was a high hope type of deal with me and I guess I'll just see what happens and if all else fails then have it the procedure done with a scantool.
Thank you for your response and information.
Bruce

That's what I kinda figured but it was a high hope type of deal with me and I guess I'll just c what happens and if all else fails then have it the procedure done with a scantool.
Thank you for your response and information.
Bruce

you are welcome let us know what happens with you.

thank you.

Okay, maybe I should have done this from the beginning. So let me fill you in on how I got to where I am with my truck.
So a few weeks ago my instrument cluster had stopped working. I was able to make it start working again by smacking the dashboard. About a week after that it had stopped again but this time I had to take the dash apart and as soon as I started to unplug the connection it started working again. Then it happened a third and final time. During this disassembly I checked all fuses and power and ground to the cluster but everything was fine with all of that. When this happened the only thing that continues to work in my cluster is the backlighting, turn signals and the check engine light. All gauges the shift indicator and the mileage indicator stop working.
When I took everything apart this time I started the truck turned it around for better access to my tools and proceeded to check everything out. But when I put everything back together and tried to start my truck it would only crank over, I had no spark on all 8 cylinders.
So I went about checking all of my fuses again inside the cab and the engine compartment which again all was good. So I've been at this dilemma for a few weeks now. Going thru everything that I could possibly think of and research on.
I have checked power and ground to almost every connection that there is on almost every sensor that there is on the engine (with only a test light). I have not been able to run a DMM on it not being able to successfully have someone crank the motor at times that I've needed so that I could check for pulse or anything. I have looked inside the dash panel to see if maybe there was a wire that may have been pinched or something and all of that looks ok. Now when I have checked the power and grounds at the sensors I also checked it and where it connects to it's ground point's. Since all was good I never checked in between connections and ground point's because since it was good at at the ends I figured that there would no bad spot in between.
During all of the diagnosis I hooked up a code reader and had a p0300 random misfire which I had been fighting for a couple months now. Even after I had done a wire and plug tune up I had the code again. But I also had a new code jump up this time which was a p0332 knock sensor 2. Since then I cleared the codes because I removed the battery to charge it. When I put the battery back in and tried to start it again I now keep getting a p0335 crankshaft positioning sensor. Which I had replaced because with the knowledge that I do have and the research that I've done that was what was leading to the no spark issue. But no good luck on my side.
The motor is still cranking over good but still has no spark. I have good fuel but do not know exact pressure reading without a pressure gauge. The motor is the 6.0l vortec and it's sitting inside the 2003 GMC Sierra 2500hd 4x4 extended cab. I'm pretty stumped on it now and really wondering what else to do or where else to look. Can you please help me and lead in a good direction to look so that that I can get my wheels back in the mud.
Again thank you very much in advance for your advice and information. Sorry for the long story about this situation but I thought it would be best to bring you completely up to speed with my truck so that you would have enough details to help.

Sorry, but I forgot to mention that the motor is a distributorless motor. I have 8 individual coils with wires to the plugs.
Thank you.

hello,

Refer to fault code p0335 you have problem on the crank sensor harness to engine control unit, check sensor connector if clean and tight, check engine control unit connectors if no water traces and tight. remove crank sensor check for any dirt and be sure not touching the sensor to reluctor wheel. if they are okay, check the procedure below step by step to fix p0335.

fault code.

check our links below for crank sensor symptoms and how it works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let us know what happens with you.

thank you.

Thank you. I will do this procedure as soon as I can and let you know happens. I really hope that this is it and that I'm finally able to make the diagnosis. I was getting real close to going and buying a PCM for it thinking that maybe part of it got fried somehow. I was kind of praying that it isn't the PCM because during some of the other diagnoses I have power and grounds at all of my sensors and the leads. I just can't find a pin diagram and a wire diagram to and from the PCM to see if I'm getting signals to and from the PCM and the sensors. .

hello,

Check the wiring diagram below, from crank sensor to PCM. waiting your results.
hope it's wiring issue not PCM.

thank you.

I'm having a hard time locating crankshaft positioning sensor it's not behind the starter

This video will help

https://youtu.be/sKo7xRWVNqY

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

That's because it's not located behind the starter. It's on the back of the engine where the bellhousing meets the block on the driver's side, near the top.

Thank you that was very helpful

Hi Hmac300, I didn't see you in there before me.

exactly where is it located i puchased a new one from pep boys i removed the sensor above the crank pully and looks nothing like the one i purchased help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What is the litre size of engine? My info showed the crank sensor is located above the starter. See picture.

i have the 8.1 liter removed the starter and did not locate sensor any other thoughts and thanks so much for your help!!!!!!!

Sorry to lead you in the wrong direction. The 8.1 shows to be on the rear of engine block, bell-housing flange. I've never changed one of these. I just looked at the component locator for 8.1.

I've located it already and have successfully changed it however it is in a extremly hard to reach location , figure at least 3-4 hours of work
Thank you guys so much for your help
(free help ) it's nice to know some people are still out to help others and not trying to extort them for more money

I'll be making that donation to you guy's shortly

Best regards
Dennis francavilla

Thanks for the donation.

What does the crank sensor look like on my truck? where is it located?

Goggle it for description-pick ur liter below

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor (4.3L VIN W)On bottom front of engine, near crank pulley.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor (4.8L VIN V)On lower right rear of engine block. .
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor (5.3L VIN T)On lower right rear of engine block.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor (6.0L VIN U)On lower right rear of engine block.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor (6.5L VIN F)On bottom front of engine, near crank pulley.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor (6.5L VIN S)On bottom front of engine, near crank pulley

Did complete tune up, replaced plugs, plug wires, distributor, rotor an fuel pump. Ran great for three months and started doing the same thing. Hooked it up to a computer and the computer is saying crank shaft sensor. Replaced it with no better results. After completing all of the above, now the mechanic is telling me the crank sensor is showing damage from the crank hitting it and the engine is worn out. This has been a great truck for the last seventeen years. i have taken very care of it and wanted to make sure the mechanic is right.

Yes the crankshaft can be hitting the sensor as the crankshaft starts to move around with the higher mileage, but I would just use a small washer under the sensor mounting bolt which will give the sensor more clearance. Is the engine making noise?

Please let us know

Cheers, Ken

Where is ckp sensor located on this truck? I can find info up to a 97 or 99 up,but I can't find anything on a 98.

It's behind the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine

where is the crankshaft sensor locate

Crankshaft Position Sensor Engine Side, RH

cranks but no start, tried squirting fuel in throttle body no fire.
pulled plug, grounded and cranked, no spark. Replaced ign. coil, ign. control module, cap & rotor, coolant temp sensor & fuel pump relay, no start. Read that crank position sensor triggers the coil and fuel pump for start & run.

Question is: Where is the crank position sensor located on this vehicle, looked all around front of engine crank damper & could not find, could this be located by the flywheel and is this my last resort?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,

Hi,

The crank sensor is located mounted in the engine block.

Here is a guide and video on how to replace it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

As far as the no spark, have you checked to see if there is power to the coil? Also, 95 was a while ago. Do you have coil packs mounted on a digital ignition controller (DIC), a coil over for each cylinder... Please explain. The DIC is known to go bad and cause a no spark situation. The DIC is what the coil packs mount to.

Thanks for the information, I replace the sensor now the truck starts up great! thanks 2CarPros! you guys are the best!

Tiny
SEVAG PAESEGHIAN,
Hello again sir. I can finally bring you back you back up to speed again with my crank sensor issue on my 2003 GMC Sierra 2500hd 4x4.
Now that I have been able to get some good time on the truck to really be able to dig deep into the diagnosing stage without freezing the gonads I was able to determine that the signal wire from the CKP to the PCM was broken and brittle for about two feet in numerous places from the sensor to the PCM and was the whole issue of the situation.
Needless to say that during the situation of the diagnosing I replaced the CKP sensor the CMP sensor the map sensor and the pcv valve. While all of this was being replaced I had the PCM disconnected and out of the vehicle because of trying not to short anything out and looking at the board to make sure it wasn't fried.
After everything was said and done I repaired the wiring then hooked the computer back up hooked the battery back up and tested my wires. Good signal at 5 volts good power and ground at 12 volts. Tried to start motor and fired right up.
Problem that I'm having now is that it runs rough and is backfiring through the throttle body. It's giving me a p0170 map sensor code and a p0334 PCM code. Research says that CMP sensor is not meeting the voltage requirements and that is causing the issue. When I'm driving the truck it runs good but at idle it's rough and when I try to get on it it falls on it's face and backfires a couple times then will pick up speed. Runs at idle like she's got a big cam lobe going on.
Just wanting to see what your thoughts might be and what you might suggest. Really wanting to get her running right. Got some mud runs looking forward to getting into this year.
Thanks SEVAG really appreciate ya.
Bruce

Hi,

What size engine does this have? As far as the idle, that could be a fuel-related issue or even a vacuum leak.

Let me know the engine size so I can focus on the codes.

Let me know.

Joe

Hello Joe. My truck is powered by the 6.0l vortec gas distributorless motor. There is a lot of insight in this forum concerning the vehicle itself snd what has gotten me to where I am now. Starting from the very 1st issue up to present.
Thank you for your interest and advice that may come.

Hi,

Do me a favor. On the front of the engine (driver's side) almost about as low as the oil pan is a ground for the coils. They are known to fail. Check the condition of it. Make sure the connector is good and make sure there isn't a corrosion issue.

The interesting thing is that ground is for all of the coils. If it is weak, it can cause all kinds of different problems.

Let me know.

Joe

Hello again Joe.

That ground was one of the very 1st wires that I checked after replacing the CKP and cmp sensors with no change. There was a short piece of the wire that was bad close to the connection at the motor. Did a repair and started getting good ground voltage. Still had the no spark issue. Started testing wires from CKP to PCM and that's when I found the signal wire from CKP was brittle and broken in numerous places through the harness up to about the front lower part of the motor (under crank pulley). Repaired that and truck fired up. Motor ran fine for a few minutes then started backfiring and having a very rough idle. Kicked codes for the MAO and com. Did research and found that PCM code was kicked because of the MAP code.
Bruce

Hi,

When I look up the codes, I'm seeing different definitions. The P0334 is for a knock sensor and the 170 is for a fuel trim issue. Note that a rich fuel mixture can cause a backfiring issue.

Also, the knock sensor fine-tunes ignition timing. I don't think it could get far enough off to cause a backfire, but it certainly can cause valve ping.

Do you have a live data scanner? If you do, let me know what the short-term fuel trims are at idle. Take a look through this link as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-backfires-while-running

As far as the knock sensors, they are under the intake manifold. If you had dry brittle wires from the PCM, these could have the same problem because of location. The see a lot of heat.

If you look at the attachments below, I included the directions for removal and replacement. At least check the condition of the wires.

I'm really interested in knowing the fuel trims. You could have an intake leak, O2 sensor issue, fuel pressure issue, the canister purge valve could be stuck open, and so on.

Let me know.

Joe

Hello again Joe,

First I have to apologize for the typos that were made in my latest correspondence. The codes that were listed were not what was meant to be there.
However the codes that I do have are the p0106 and p0342. 106 being the map sensor code and 342 being the PCM code.
When I looked these codes up the 106 is telling me that there is a low or short circuit being read from the MAP sensor. The 342 code tells me that it is caused because of the CMP sensor is sending an or otherwise outside the manufacturer's settings.
As for the knock sensor code. I haven't had that code come up again since the time that I couldn't get the truck to start again. Now that I have been able to get it running that code has not came back.
I do not have access to a scanner with the ability to do live scan or anything like that. I used to have access to a scanner with that ability a couple of years when I worked in a shop for approximately 15 years. But I quit from there about 2 years ago and now I just stay at home for the most part when not out being able to enjoy the mud.
With those knock sensors. Checking the wires with a multimeter should I get a voltage reading a ground reading or a signal reading?? And of what values would these readings be?
Again I apologize for the typos that were made.