starter not working?

check power to the starter while trying to start it it should have power on the small wire if it has power there while trying to crank it bad starter

This guide will tell us for sure

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

Well i don't have a test light. Instead i took the starter off and went to 4 different parts stores: Autozone said it was good, O'Reilly #1 said it was bad, O'Reilly #2 said it was good, and Pep Boys said it was bad. I decided to send it back since it has warranty. I just don't know why the results varied so much. I'll post what happened when i get the new part in a few days and install it. Thanks.

When you had the new key made does it have the chip in it. Also I would replace the starter with an AC delco unit,

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-336-1899A-Professional-Starter-Remanufactured/dp/B002VUH41U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463504651&sr=8-2&keywords=1993+BUICK+LESABRE+starter

only ones worth installing

Let us know what you find,

Best, Ken

Exactly AC Delco is the only way to go. And that's why Im so shocked. This IS an AC Delco Remanufactured Starter. I bought it online from Rockauto.com this past February. This is not what i expected from them, but then again it is remanufactured so you never know.

And yes my key does have a chip but the locksmith i took it with measured the resistance on the chip and made a new key according to that. His little machine said it was a #6. Then i measured the resistance of the new key and the old key with a multimeter and they were just off by 5 ohmns, which is nothing. I rechecked that the new lock cylinder wires were not broken or pinched and they're not, i even wrapped with electrical tape the small part where they're separated before joining into a single orange wire. As far as all the electrical connections under the dash, everything is plugged where it should. Autozone they told me that it might be the ignition switch that sits behind the lock cylinder. But a mechanic i know told me that can't be it, because if it was, i wouldn't be able to hear the fuel pump priming when i turn the key forward, which it does.

Lets try looking at the neutral safety switch, have you thought about getting a test light to help with the testing? On a problem like this it is a must.

http://www.amazon.com/ATD-5513-Heavy-Duty-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000M5ZWBA/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463507356&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=test+liht

See if the starter is getting a signal, I have seen where AC Delco stuff has problems too its not a 100% world :)

Is the security light flashing now?

Let me know

Best, Ken

No it never did flash any lights. But when i checked for codes, it gave me 58, which is a security shut off. Which was caused by the little wires on the old lock cylinder being broken. But now with new lock cylinder installed, i check for codes again and it doesn't give anything just code 12. One thing i did find very interesting is that, as an experiment, i disconnected one of the wires of the new lock cylinder that goes plugged into a little plastic box filled with wires above the brake pedal, i check for codes again, and only got code 12. Then i disconnected both lock cylinder wires, and again it just gave me code 12, which is weird because i should have gotten 58 again, like before. Does that mean anything?

I would shut all the car doors, lock and then unlock the drivers door. Next disconnect the battery for two minutes and reconnect. See what happens get back to me.

Well i can't because it has not starter i just sent it back today. But trust me i tried connecting and disconnecting the battery in many different patterns and for different amounts of time and nothing worked. I didn't try the lock and unlock driver's door and disconnect for 2 minutes. But when i get the new starter i'll definitely try it.

Let me know :)

Well im really stuck here friend. I installed a new remanufactured AC Delco Starter and it still doesnt start or crank. I tried locking all the doors then unlocking the driver's door then disconnected battery for two minutes. And the only change i noticed is that when i turn the key from OFF to ON it beeps for 6 times straight, something it hadn't done in a long time. But that's it. This other mechanic told me to get a screwdriver and make the big and small terminals on the starter contact each other while having the key forward, and that should have turned it on. But all it does is make a loud click and a spark every time i touch them at the same time, the engine doesnt turn over at all.

As some additional notes: i am able to hear the fuel pump priming every time i turn the key forward. Lights turn on on the dash, and there's 6 consecutive beeps. Just as a reminder i replaced the ignition lock cylinder, the turn signal swith, and i got a new key to go with the new cylinder with the electrical resistance on the chip matching the chip on the old key. And now a new remanufactured starter. And nothing no crank.

Hey JUANEMMANUEL,

I would put a wrench on the front of the engine to see if you can turn it over by hand, the engine might be locked up.

Let me know what you find

I put the wrench on the crankshaft and was able to turn it over easily without much effort. This other guy at Autoze told me that the Neutral Safety Switch might be bad so he told me to unplugg both connections it has and if it was bad, the would turn on. I tried it and it still doesn't turn on at all. No crank.

I think its time for a test light to check where the trigger signal is getting lost.

Ok i will buy one as soon as i can. Do you think you could tell me eaxctly where to start and what route to follow when checking with the test light?

Ok one other thing i might add is that my car has a little square slot that was installed before i bought the car, which contains a little metal looking memory card which when you take it out, the car doesn't start or crank, the same thing its doing right now. And i did notice that even though its inserted, its kind of loose. Before it would go in kind of tight, but now it kinda goes in without any effort. Could this have something to do with it?

Can you post a picture of what you are talking about?

Its not letting me upload it. Can i send to you to an email address?

Here it is.

That is an old fashion alarm thing, I would take the out first thing, follow the wires back and just connect the wires the way they were originally made.

What troubles were you having when you were uploading?

Im sorry i didnt understand. What thing do i take off? The whole slot?

Yes take the whole thing off, follow the wires to were they go and hook them up directly. you will see its easy.

Ok i have a dilema. I disconnected the six little wires going into the slot box you saw in the picture, and they come down under the dash. But i have no idea how they were originally connected. This is what it looks like right now. Any ideas?

Here

You must follow the black wires back to where they connect to the harness and look for the same colors, connect the same color wires together, the car should start. I cant remember if they go to a box or not, the idea is to just remove the whole thing and put the harness back to the way it was.

Sorry for the late reply. Problem fixed!! I didn't actually end up doing anything with those wires that go into that kill switch. This guy came over with a test light (as you originally suggested) and he traced the lack of power all the way to the crazy jungle of wires under the dash. He told me to cut the two big wires that plugged into the aftermarket alarm system/box and splice them together (the way they were originally). I did and she fired right up! However he also found another problem that might've been affecting it too. The negative cable to the battery wasn't grounded properly. When he contacted the big and small terminals on the starter with a screwdriver, he noticed a spark where the negative cable is grounded with a nut to a stud on the ignition control module bracket. It was pretty loose but we tightened it, then i spliced those two cables under the dash, and she lived again. The only downside is that now the alarm doesn't work, but after 3 weeks without my car i couldn't care less. Thanks a lot for all your help. Keep up the good work.

So glad to hear you got the problem fixed, we are always here and ready to help, please come back when you need us again.

Best, Ken

We are stumpted on this one. We have changed the gas tank, the fuel relay, the sending unit, the fuel pump, and the fuel filter. The car cranks over fine, some times you can hear the pump kick in, some times you cannot. One time I got it running and took it for a drive. I got about 15 miles away, and it died on me. I could not get it to start, it cranks over, but won't start. I left the car for a day, and went to go get it, and then it started. It has to be something with a sensor, what do you think?
Cannot trust my Buick.

Check the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge during one of these episodes. If none, then the ECM may not be picking up an ignition signal from the ign. and shutting off the FP.

You can hook up a inductive timing light to the wires to see if you are getting spark, If not then I would suspect the ign. module.

If you are getting spark you could bypass the relay by connecting terminal "G" of the ALDL to 12V.
If it runs then the relay is bad or possibly the back up oil pressure sender circuit.

I finally found my problem! As I was taking the coil packs off, I found that one of the spark plugs were all corroded on one of the coil paks. I still took off the Ignition Control Module and took it in to have it tested, it tested okay. So I knew it had to be the coil pack. It has only been a couple days now, but I think I found my problem. Thank you to everyone who responded, and I hope this might help someone else that cannot trust their trustworthy Buick.

[quote:766e0062f3="DirtyGertie"]I finally found my problem! As I was taking the coil packs off, I found that one of the spark plugs were all corroded on one of the coil paks. I still took off the Ignition Control Module and took it in to have it tested, it tested okay. So I knew it had to be the coil pack. It has only been a couple days now, but I think I found my problem. Thank you to everyone who responded, and I hope this might help someone else that cannot trust their trustworthy Buick.[/quote:766e0062f3]

Initially, the ignition wouldn't engage the starter, so our mechanic put a push button ignition on it and that seems to have solved the problem. Now the car will turn over, but not start. It seems to be getting good fuel and good spark. If I spray starter fluid into the air intake, I can get the car to run, but it stops as soon as I stop spraying. I installed a new fuel pump and strainer yesterday, but that doesn't seem to have solved the problem. Any ideas what to do next?

Hi:
Check the fuel pressure regulator. Also, have you checked fuel pump pressure to the injectors? Finally, can you hear the injectors working (like a tapping noise)?

Let me know.

Joe

Electrical problem
1993 Buick Lesabre Two Wheel Drive Automatic 39000 miles

My car was recently towed and sat in the tow yard for a day or two. When I picked it up it would not start or show any electrical response whatsoever. The tow guy pulled his truck around and after having it hooked up to jump for a few minutes it still wouldn't give me anything- no interior lights or sounds...nothing. He then grabbed the cables and started jerking them around and sticking them on different parts of the engine. The interior lights would blink on and off as he was shaking everything until finally i hit the ignition right when they flashed on and it started. It got me home running fine on the freeway 20 mins away and now its sitting in my driveway dead again. Note, this car has a newer battery and only 39,000 miles. I've never had a problem with it until now. Was something knocked loose when it was towed? Where should I look first? Any information would be HELPful.

Thanks!

Remove the battery terminals and clean, replace and properly tighten them. Next, follow the ground cable to the engine block. Remove it and clean any corrosion or rust from both the engine block and neg battery terminal. Replace it and properly tighten it.

That should take care of the problem. Let me know if it helps.

1993 Buick Lesabre 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

My car uses the pass key which has a chip in the key for security.I have cleaned the key but my car will not start.Is there a way to reset the anti theft system?

Paulkooi, Unfortunately there are no shortcuts to your problem. The chip in the key is a resistor that drops a voltage signal down as it passes through and is then verified as correct before allowing your car to start. A VATS key interrogator is used to determine if your key or ignition switch (w/anti theft), is at fault. Here is a picture of one.

It is however likely that your vehicle has the same problem 95% of these vehicles exhibit, that is simply the ignition lock cylinder (w/anti theft) has a broken wire from turning so many times. I do not recommend this for the amateur mechanic and a variety tools, puller lock plate depressor, are required for service. Have a shop skilled at dismantling steering column take a look at it. It may also be a good idea to check for shops that own this old key test tool also. Good luck,

I have everything in the world checked on this car, it must have a ghost haunting it. I need to know how and where the throttle position sensor is? Where it is located and how to replace it? 1993 Buick Lesabre. replaced the fuel pump, fuel relay, fuel filter, coil packs, ignition module, crank shaft sensor. Some times it starts, sometimes it does'nt. I drove it for about 250 miles, it seemed like it was choking, then on the way to school today I was driving 55 miles an hour, and it died on me. The service engine light has been coming on, so yesterday I took it to O'Riellys and tested the computer. It said the throttle position sensor was low. Where is it located, and how do I replace it.

Hi
TPS is located on throttle body it is a little black box thing with three wire connector.Remove wires and mounting screws and replace with new make sure cam is positioned properly. Looks like the letter D
Hope this helps
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