car stalls

It could be many things: (I assume the ignition switch and the IAC valve you replaced are working properly)

*Could be a fuel related problem (lean mixture); check:
- vacuum leak
- MAP sensor
- Throttle position sensor
- dirty injector
- dirty plugs etc

Chek also:
- faulty PCM

Also Ford has a bulletin for Focus with stalling problem during cold weather: it's something about the PCV valve.

There's something else you can do if you're patient enough:
sooner or later this intermittent problem is likely to turn into a daily problem, which should make it easier to diagnose at the shop.

It could also be that all you need is a tune up.

Yes the stuff we replaced are working well. Today we will change the fuel filter. We had the vin # checked and this car was not involved in the fuel pump recall. I will take your advice and have all you mention checked as well. However wouldn't any of the things you mentioned show up on a computer? nothing does. Thanks for your help

There are DTCs for the parts i mentioned indeed, but many problems in a car don't set a code.
Also, have you checked for 'general' codes only, or have you also checked for manufacturer specific codes?

Also, I forgot to mention to check the EGR valve.

If you suspect a fuel system issue, i would do a fuel pressure test, check for leaks and/or low pressure.

Let me know how it goes, it's always hard to diagnose a problem over the internet :)

I have a 2000 Ford Focus with around 180,000 miles on it. Since I got the car I've had small problems with it here and there, but the biggest and most frustrating problem is the condition in which my car runs. I know before I bought the car it had sat for some time (probably because the previous owners couldn't figure out why it ran so terribly) so I immediately had to replace the alternator. The car ran okay for a few months until I started noticing problems with what I thought to be the fuel filter. I had run the car low on gas one day and on my way to the gas station my gas light came on. As soon as the light illuminated my car died. After having this happen a few times, my car started running horribly. I live in Vermont where, obviously, I'm surrounded by hills and mountains. When trying to accelerate to get up hills the car began to buck and would hardly make it to the top. There have been many times where I've been going uphill and the car would slow to about 30 mph, inching up the road, and would then die. I finally replaced the fuel filter thinking that there was a possibility the fuel wasn't able to get through the filter and off to where it needed to go. Unfortunately, after replacing the filter, I noticed no positive change, actually the problem seems to progressively get worse. Now even when driving on the highway going at a decent speed, any time I try to accelerate (even on flat roads) it will rev high and start the same bucking. Just yesterday while on the highway with over a quarter tank of gas, it began to buck and eventually stalled. I tried to start the car and it would turn over but not start. Over and over and over again. It finally would start and as soon as I put it in drive and step on the gas, it would die again. I eventually got it (at a very slow crawl) to a gas station, put more gas in it to just about a half tank, and it drove...not very well, but good enough to get me home. I don't know very much about cars, so I don't know if its a simple fix or something more extensive. Possibly the spark plugs or the MAF. Please help me!

The fuel pump may be failing, get the fuel pressure tested first, make sure that it is with in required specs.

I also forgot to mention that at one point the check engine light came on for a few days, then went away. Then yesterday while driving the light came back on but was flashing. I don't know if that bit of information would help diagnose the problem.

Go get a scan and see what the codes are.

i was trying to park on a slight hill, and was giving the throttle a few taps and it started sputtering and then stalled. The battery light came on. It has a new battery, new alternator, and new plugs and wires. This is the second time in two days it has happened.

Do you mean the second time it stalled or the second time the battery light came on? For both you will want to check the cable connections at both ends real close. The throttle taps could be rocking the engine enough to make/break a bad connection causing it to stall.

Thanks, ill check that. The battery light came on the second time

Please let us know what you find ;)

Cheers, Ken

2000 Ford Focus 4 cyl Automatic 140000 miles

my 2000 ford focus keeps stalling. it only stalls when i stop. the check engine light is on and when i took it to advanced auto they ran the code and it comes up running to lean. so they suggested i get a new 02 sensor...so i replaced that and within a week, same thing. i did come to find out that there is two 02 sensors, but i took it to a dealer anyway and they confirmed that i needed a new 02 sensor(the one i've yet to replace) so i bought an o2 sensor and had it put it. they car ran great for about 3 weeks and now the same thing has happened again, more stalling and the same code. help?

Lean fuel condition could be caused by one of the following below:

1.Vacuum leaks
2.EGR and PCV valve.
3.Low fuel pressure.
4.Dirty fuel injectors.
5.Mass Air Flow Sensor.

i had the transmission rebuilt 3 months ago,ever since that my car idles rough off and on and has been stalling while driving not sure if it was caused by the new transmission,but when it stalls the car will restart and u can drive it for a while and it'll stall again,replaced the 02 sensor-fuel pump and filter has no air leaks and fairly new plugs and wires does need an oil change though gonna replace the coolant temperature sensor,but if that does not work then what could it be? it's a 2000 ford focus se 2.0 single cam has 104267 miles. oh and you can let it idle for 3 hours and it'll stall as well.

It sounds like a problem with the crank sensor. Has the check engine light ever come on? Has it ever been replaced?

my 2000 ford focus SE was just in the shop for a new fuel pump...a day after the car would start, it then went in the shop and i got the battery replaced...now the car is stalling at lights and stop signs, but drives perfectly fine...any ideas?

Check for vacuum leaks. If the check engine light has come on, have the computer scanned. Most parts stores will do it for free. Also, check fuel pressure (I know the pump is new) but check it and make sure the pressure regulator is working properly.

I have a 2000 Ford Focus SE. It stalls while I am driving (usually under 35 mph). Just before it stalls the tac bounces and the battery light flashes. To try to fix it we have replaced the fuel pump; fuel filter; and replaced all spark plugs and wires.

Check and test the idle air control valve, EGR valve and throttle position and mass airflow sensors

My car shakes and shuts off while driving and when i am at a complete stop. What can be the cause? When I turn the car on it is rattling and feels like it is going to die.

Have the vehicles's PCM read for fault codes and get back to us with the codes ... most good autoparts stores (autozone etc.) do this for free ..

Car lost power after going up a hill. Slowly stalled out. Battery light, Alt light, and oil light all came on. I waited awhile with car shut off, to let it cool down & started it up and I made it home. But this has never happened before..so what do you think happened?

A few things could cause this. First, the fuel pump may be going bad. I recommend having fuel pressure checked. If you need directions, let me know. Next, the catalytic converter could be starting to plug. If this happens again, check to see if it is red hot. If it is, replace it.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Knocking sound and won't stay running cuts right off when i start

Sounds like internal motor damage. Have it tested for engine compression. You might need an engine rebuild.

My car shuts off when it idles. But just for a second. Then it starts back up again. What could cause this?

Check for vacuum leaks and check the idle air control valve. (IAC)

Engine Performance problem
2000 Ford Focus Two Wheel Drive Manual 77000 miles

The car drives fine apart from it only ticks over at about 700 rpm, when i loose my foot off the throttle the engine cuts out and shows the warning light, this does not happen if i coast on the clutch. i have been told it is the throttle sensor position??

Could be the TPS indeed. Back probe the wires at the sensor, One is your ground (around 0V), another one is your hot wire (about 5V), and the last one is your signal wire. When you open the throttle, the voltage at the signal wire should go up steadily until 5V (fully open). When you close the throttle, the voltage should drop back down steadily. If it doesn’t go up and down steadily, but rather jump from say 1V to 4 V all of a sudden, that indicates a bad TPS.
You can also disconnect your TPS and put a ohmmeter across your signal and supply wires. As you manually open and close the throttle, the resistance should increase and drop. If you have erratic readings, the sensor is bad.

P.S: I would also check the fuel pressure to make sure there's nothing wrong with that.

engine shuts off when i approach junctions or roundabouts, idles at about 750 rpm. i have taken idling valve off and cleaned with wd40, problem disappeared but has come back

Either you have a vacuum leak or the IAC is bad. Keep in mind, WD40 is a lubricant and not a cleaner.