car stalls

Hey PEACHES42,

This is a common problem and can be fixed by just driving it becasue the computer is trying to relearn itself. Here is a guide explaining the problem better.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls-idles-too-high-low-after-dead-or-replaced-battery

It could be caused by a dirty throttle body as well lets run down this guide to perform the service.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please let us know happens.

2000 Ford Focus SE, 4 cyl - A few weeks ago engine light came on. Check the codes, it was for a mis-fire on 2nd cylinder. Found that the plug wire was not fitting correctly. Re-set, but it came coming off. Due to age and not sure of how old plugs or wires were decided to change out. All plugs and wires were replaced with new ones. The old plugs were set at a gap of .045, yet the specs called for .052-.056. New plugs were set to specs. Codes were cleared.
But then began to experience the engine dying every time the vehicle was put into park. No new codes issued. This behavior was not consistent, as the dying occurred at certain runs and then would not occur at all. Has happen with air on, then with air off. Has happen when decreasing speed to a stop light.
Pulled plugs again and reset the gap to the original setting thinking that maybe there was a connection. But the problem still exists and no new codes have been issued.
Wanting to find a direction to fix the problem. Currently at a lost due to the inconsistent behavior.
Sometimes it does not happen at all and will not die, then shut vehicle down and restart it, it will start up but quickly stagger and die. You can force it to maintain by pressing the brake and gas and jump shifting to drive. Then other times it starts up, runs fine never showing a sign of issues.

check your fuel pressure that can cause your problem .

car is a deisal wouldu lose presure over acouple of minets

diesels don'tuse spark plugs

I have a pressure tester but not sure where to connect it to the system. I do not see a port between the fuel filter and fuel rail. Is this the only place to test the fuel system pressure? Or is there a place underneath the vehicle? It has he 2.0 Split-port 4 cyl motor.

it's on the fuel rail manifold. it shoud be 35-55 psi.

I recently bought my car from a used car dealership and their product is usually pretty reliable, and affordable. I haven't heard any complaints from them. However, I have had it for about a week and haven't had any problems until yesterday. I was on my way home from work, and I was getting onto the highway which looped down from an intersecting main road above. I was doing approximately between 40-50 mph. on the on-ramp itself. And about 3/4 of the way around the turn, the car basically shut off. Now, I say basically, because the radio was still on, the lights were still on, I was still moving, but it sounded like the engine went to an idle, and shut off. I pulled over, sat with it in drive for a minute because I didn't want to break anything, and then decided that I wanted to put it in park and turn the ignition to off. After I did that, I noticed that the check engine light, the oil light, and the battery light were all on. However, the car started right up and got me home with no other problems. I called the dealership as soon as I got home, and they said the old, 'Call back if it happens again,' bit. So, on my way home from work tonight, it happened in the same exact spot, and then AGAIN on the off-ramp. I haven't gone on a left entrance or exit ramp yet, so I don't know if it happens when I turn the wheel both directions, but it does seem to be when the wheel gets to a certain point, with addition to a certain speed. I don't know if there are wires loose, and the wheels are hitting them. Or the battery cables are loose, I haven't looked under my hood because I don't know what to look for. I am 20 years old and my Dad is also uncertain of what it could be. I am going to call the dealership back tomorrow and see if I can bring the car in and have them look at it. I am asking on here, if you have heard of this problem before, or any clue as to what could be shutting my engine off.

I have delt with other vehicles that had similar problems. What it usually ends up dealing with is a weak fuel pump. It seems that when you turn, the fuel in the tank moves around and for some reason, the pump doesn't pick it up. As a result the engine looses power or stalls. I would mention that to them. As far as the battery terminals, just open the hood, locate the battery, and see if the connection is loose enough to move around.

I am unable to locate the port. I assume by you saying the Fuel Rail Manifold that it is not on the fuel rail itself, but yet there is nothing else that looks like a port to connect a tester too. Can you tell me which side of the engine it is on and what it is close too? Driver's side or Passenger's?

the fuel rail is hooked up to the injectors you might have to remove an engine cover or air ducting to see it.

you'll have to get a special tool to disconnect the lines at the maifold then. you 'll also need to replace the o-rings that seal it together.and you'll need an adapter to connect the gauge too. alot of auto parts stores have these for rental. here is apic of what to do .

Ok, I saw that thing and wondered if that was not it, but was not sure how to access it, makes sense now. I appreciate the assistance. Could it be possible that this could be something other than the fuel system. Just the inconsistant behavior of it is what makes me ask. Like last night, I set the sprak plugs back the specs and then took it for a spin. I never had any problems until I put it into park. It died immediately. I was able to start it but each time it stalled out. Was able to get it going again by holding the gas down along with the brake and jumping it into drive. But then later after shutting it down again. It started up (no stalling) ran fine and didn't have any issues. So if it is the fuel system, could it be that the fuel pump is going out?

Engine Performance problem
2000 Ford Focus 4 cyl Automatic 106000 miles

my engine is stalling when i come to a full stop. it also has a hard time accelerating and going up hills. i feel it is probably the fuel injector, or possibly the spark plugs. when check engine light went on, and i've take out the spark plug connector and found as least 1/2 cup of water inside. i took out the water and the check engine light went off, (maybe went off then i disconnected the battery?) but i still have the same symptoms. i've gotten this car used last year, and dont know if i should change timing belts or whatnot

You shouldn't change anything until you get it diagnosed properly. I'm not sure where you found that water but if your losing coolant, then pressure test the cooling system. It sounds like a compression test should be in order too.

go back to first answer, if you dont'do what we ask then how can we help fix it? we dont' have a magic wand.

[quote:1515000c8a="Wrenchtech"]You shouldn't change anything until you get it diagnosed properly. I'm not sure where you found that water but if your losing coolant, then pressure test the cooling system. It sounds like a compression test should be in order too.[/quote:1515000c8a]

will do a diagnostic check. as for coolant, it was very low when i got my car a week ago (was out of state for 3 months and a friend drove it), so i filled it to nominal amount, and so far it seems to be the same.

i'm sorry, i'm still getting into the car talk lingo here, what does the "compression test" test?

I have been trying to do what was in the first answer, but lacking tools and time, I am taking the vehicle to a mechanic to have it tested. Hence the reason for my further inquiry, as needed to know what more could cause this issue prior to some shady mechanic painting some horrid picture costing hundreds. Just trying to get as much information as possible. No expectations of a magic wand, but just testing the fuel pressure does not explain to me a direct possible cause. Does it? I have no clue, which is the reason I came here to ask and learn! Once I have it tested I will follow up with a response.

I'm sorry and I don't want to be mean but if your not familiar with the term "compression test" then you will really would need to recruit some experienced help because this diagnosis will be far beyond your abilities.

if you don't get the correct fuelpressure the injectors dont' ork right causing a very lean condition, hence a misfire.......

[quote:928634909d="Wrenchtech"]I'm sorry and I don't want to be mean but if your not familiar with the term "compression test" then you will really would need to recruit some experienced help because this diagnosis will be far beyond your abilities.[/quote:928634909d]

yea... actually i just googled it, and it seems doable. but thanks, i just wanted another opinion before i take it in the shop. i was hoping that it might have been the spark plugs, but im thinking i really should do a diagnostic check before diving in to repair..

oh and also, my engine shakes alot at idle, and most of the time it stalls, and the rpm is below the 1 at idle. i dont know if that anything. and also, there is hesitation when i try to accelerate, to a point where i sometimes floor the gas and it doesnt respond right

and thanks, this is all new learning experience for me

Car's fuel pressure checked ok. The vehicle was also hooked up to a scanner and everything tested out fine there too. The vehicle is still staggering and stalling out when put into park, or upon shutting it own and restarting it. Idle at time when it starts up and does not stall out appears to be rough but once in drive and driven levels out. I would appreciate direction from this point. What is the next thing to determine the cause?

two things that i can think of and i can't think of much else unless ican actually look at it and a local pro would be better at that than i. try cleaning your throttle plate on both sides with choke cleaner, they get gunked up and cause idle problems. check to see if you have any vacuum hoses or any rubber connection that has holes in it or are not connected. one other thing trycleaning maf sensor with choke cleaner as well and make sure no duct work between maf and throttle plate has holes in it and is connected as well.other than thta i cna't think of anything else.

00 ford focus keeps shutting off at stop lights, stop signs, and sometimes in the middle of a turn. change battery...any ideas on what could be making it shut off?

It needs to relearn its idle speed due to battery disconnections

I cleaned the throttle plate and the sensor. All seemed in good shape really. I checked the vacuum lines and all seemed in good shape as well. I also on a hunch and dumped in a large amount of injector cleaner on the last fill up. Currently the problem is intermittent, But goes for long stretches without any issues. Going to periodically add a little injector cleaner to the system and then check the throttle body and sensor as the summer continues to see if there is anything else that pops up. Thanks for the insight and thoughts.

How do I do that?

I had a similar problem, I replaced the coil pack and was good to go.

RELEARN PROCEDURES
NOTE:When battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. Vehicle may need to be driven for approximately 10 miles or more to relearn strategy.

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Cheers, Ken

ok when i crack the car its ok but when i start to mash the gas paddel down it goes dead i have replace coil pack plugs and wires fuel pump and filter and timeing belt cat-converd i could drive it a about one mile it would start missing and go dead and i could pull over wait turn car off then it would crack back up and does the same thang.

I already drove it more than 10 miles

Maybe your losing rpm signal? Are there any applicable trouble codes? Some of the national brand auto stores will check codes for free. To check codes yourself, at the least, you need an obd2 code reader.

When it stalls if you have to wait a bit before it starts, if it cranks good, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the spark plugs. If you have spark everywhere, check fuel pressure and injector pulse, engine cranking.

I replaced the battery about two weeks ago. It just started shutting off frequently like that today.

try spark plugs wires and coil pack

why does my car die when i barely touch gas pedal or put it in gear i have changed fuel pump. it seems to help if i hold my hand over carburator and regulate air going in its a 2000 ford focus 4 cyl. auto,thanx in advance.

Check for vacuum leaks. It sounds like you need to choke the engine to make it run.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I have a stalling problem. This started several days after power washing engine.

The car starts, revs, shifts, fine. But has intermittent staliing problem.

For the most part this happens after car is warmed up and after stopping at stop sign. Upon normal acceleration, the engine "abruptly" starts to stop (engine stoos quidkly with a thud/jolt) and may or may not quit depending on how quickly I take my foot off the gas. It starts right away and may or may not stalll again.

If I accelerate very slowly, it will not occur.

It runs fine once it gets through this low speed acceleration problem.

It did "miss" once at speed going on an entrace ramp.

It will also show similar symptoms at highway speeds if I put the pedal to the metal and it will die surge, die surge, until I let up on the gas.

Standard code reader at Auto Zone did not show codes. I replaced a couple of sensors (for EGR) but did not help. Unplugged the MAF but did not help.

Tune up etc OK.

Ford guy said he though valve problem i(internal mechanical problem) in trans going from 1st to 2nd gear but I drove it in first "1" (Auto) and it still does it. I happens any time from immediately to after its reving up to 5-10 miles per hour.

Took it to a trans place and they think it's electic

updated 5-10-09
I took the car to a small independent transmission shop after Ford wanted to charge me $3,500 to replace the trans. The guy said that there was no way that this was a mechanical problem. I was either a ground or some other problem. He connected his "code machine" ran a test of some sort which caused the engine to race plus whatever else. The bottom line is, it must have rebooted the system and the problem has gone away. No charge.

I went bach to Ford and told them I wanted my money back for the "diagnosis"
they did. But they said to pack sand. That they need to be compensated for their time even if they didn't know what they were talking about. Even I knew it wasn't a mechanical probelem.

So much for Ford trained mechanics. There are no mechanics today. If they
can't plug it into the machine and have the answer spit out they're lost.
You need some common sense and ability. The problem they stated couldn't have been true had they thought it through but they sure wanted $3,500 bucks.

Ok tell me have you checked the air filter and have you cleaned the Mass air flow unit (only use mass air flow cleaner)? Have you check the TPS? Get back to me and we will go from there.

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Ford Focus 4 cyl Automatic 87,000 miles
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Are you ready for a challenge?
My newly licensed son purchased a 2000 ford focus with 135,000 miles on it He loves the car but a week after he bought it the engine died. The used car dealer even though it was bought as is, put another used engine in it for us. This engine even though we really know nothing about it supposedly has like 86,000 miles on it. When he got the car back it started stalling intermittently. It would go a week with no problem and then 2 days of stalling then nothing again. We took it back to the garage and nothing shows up on the computer and he cannot duplicate the stalling. We take it home a week and half no problem then stalling starts again. Bring it back nothing shows up on computer so he changes the idle air control valve. We take the car home and the ignition switch locked up. Had that replaced and went a week and the stalling started again. There is no rhyme or reason. It stalls cold it stalls warm and it stalls so far only when idling in the drive position, when at a light or stop signs. I was told if I took the car to the dealer it would be hard to find the answer if it can’t be duplicated and the price would be great if it had to be looked at for a long time. This is an old car that when running, runs well. I have searched the internet and see that the ignition switch is a common problem with the 2000 as well as the stalling. I however never find a real solution. Tomorrow we are changing the fuel filter. I am hoping you have some other not to expensive advice to offer?

Thanks much for any help you can offer.