My engine stalls at idle why?

Highly doubt it is air locked, more likely is that you have a bad fuel pump or bad filter if it acts like it is not getting fuel. Test the fuel pressure and flow and see what you have at the rail on the engine.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down these guides and report back.

The engine shut off when its put in gear

Will it stay running if you hold the gas pedal down 1/8"? Do you get the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine? Was the battery recently disconnected or run dead?

Keeps shutting off after starting.

Sounds like the idle control passage is clogged and not allowing the engine to idle. Can you start the vehicle and then keep it alive by raising the RPM?

If so, we need to remove the throttle body and try to clean this passage and retest. Here is a guide that helps with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mass-air-flow-service

Let us know what you find. Thanks

I had already tried that and it didn't work.

Just to clarify did you already try cleaning that passage and it didn't work or trying to keep it alive with more RPM and that didn't work?

If we haven't removed the throttle body and cleaned it, I would do that next even if you can't keep it running. Let me know. Thanks

I solved the problem. I took out the fuel pump relay and the fuse first. Then I opened my gas cap and turned my ignition switch on but not try to start it. I put fuse and relay back and waited a few minutes. Then I started it. It worked. So far it's doing great. Thanks so much for all your help. It has been greatly appreciated!

Interesting. That is where we were going next was a fuel issue. So if this starts again, you need to test the fuel pressure and most likely you have a failing pump.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Thanks for the info.

My battery was dead so I jumped car. Charged battery up because it is dead but will not be able to replace for another day or so. I work at a diesel shop but cars sometimes trick me. It was idling high at about 1000 rpm it is uaully about 650 I belive. When the AC is running it runs a little high but drops down every now and then. With AC not running it will keep jumping up and down but gets weaker every time it jumps down and will shut off. My alt was reading about 13.5 to 14. Not too sure!

Has the check engine light come on? It sounds like an IAC or TPS, but I can't be sure without the light. Also, yes it is normal for it to idle up with the AC.

Let me know about the light.

Joe

Thanks !

You are welcome. Talk to you next time. Thanks for using 2CarPros.

I drive a 1999 Dodge Durango. Had the transmission rebuilt and now after the car heats up and is driven a few miles, it begins to run rough and when going to stop the engine starts cutting out like it wants to stall, and once you actually stop, the engine picks back up but still runs rough. I am not sure what to do, I have replaced the crank shaft position sensor, fuel pump, oxygen sensor, ECU, and tested the throttle position sensor, air intake temperature sensor, MAP sensor and all are in working order. The trucks engine also tries to cut out even if you manual downshift through the gears. Any advice would be nice I cant stand this anymore

Hi , I would begin by checking the idle air control valve , and the timing. when was the last time you did a timing belt?

I have never did a timing belt, I am pretty sure mine has a timing chain though. When my vehicle goes into limp mode, it runs better, but as soon as I reset the computer it goes back into trying to stall. I recently had my tranny rebuilt, is it possible there was a vacuum line left off?

that is quite possible, also the torque convertor clutch relay may be at fault , I dont recall if you have a check engine light on or tcm light on?

I would definitely scan it, you know autozone does it for free, this way we can get to the bottom of this without , checking every single possibility

I have scanned it I have my own scan tool. I have oxygen sensor circuit low, and fuel system lean. I have replaced the 02 sensors and am still getting the codes. Runs fine while codes are on, but once reset the truck runs like crap

My battery died, car started with a jump but won't stay running at idle, only runs at higher revs (1000rmp or higher). It starts now without a jump but still dies at idle speed.

ok the cam and the engine coolant temp sensor helps control fuel. also fuel pressure regulator, then, what if a couple of the injectors are bad. I wouldnt just replace them , unless you can easily afford it, theres nothing wrong with new parts, but if you cannot afford it, I would test these things first. but like I said, we have those two sensors to look at plus the regulator

Have you checked the alternator? Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked for vacuum leaks as well as the idle air control valve?

Let me know.
Joe

I have tested all the sensors accept the fuel pressure regulator and all seem to be working, getting the correct voltage for power, and sending out the correct voltage signals. How can i test the regulator and the torque converter clutch? I have taken it to the transmission shop twice and they deny anything is wrong with it after the worked on it, even though it was overfilled by two quarts and the crankshaft sensor was cracked.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Thank you, Will test that tomorrow evening after work. What about testing the torque converter? I just dont understand why it runs okay with the check engine light on, but when reset the truck goes haywire

Hi whitey678, any luck on on getting fuel pressure test results?

[quote:11bbcd04ed="2CarPros Linsey"]Hi whitey678, any luck on on getting fuel pressure test results?[/quote:11bbcd04ed]

and what are the scan codes?

I was getting a constant 42psi of fuel pressure before my fuel pump died and the car wouldnt start. I replaced the fuel pump a few weeks ago and have not had a chance to test it again, but the car would actually start. The stalling was not fixed however when I replaced the pump and filter. The codes are 'fuel system lean' and 'oxygen sensor circuit low, bank one' I have replaced my 02 sensors and no luck. I only have problems though when the check engine light is reset. I have replaced the ECM and no luck. Tested all sensors relating to air and fuel mixtures and they are all getting the correct power voltage and sending out the correct voltage ranges. Could I have a vacuum leak somewhere and when the engine light comes on it compensates for the leak?

yes a vacuum leak can contribute to this problem , but what I wanted to say is, the oxygen sensor circuit is low, is what the scanner says, which means the harnass or the wiring, does not have a good connection, therefore the computer isnt sending the vehicle into complete closed loop, hence the lean condition. and the fuel pressure is a little too low , I would also check the air intake temp sensor, and fuel pressure regulator if you havent already. and the engine coolant temp sensor, and remember bad sensors wont always cause a check engine light,(one of the bad things about obd). keep me posted

I have tested the air intake temerature sensor, and it is working properly, I have not tested the regulator yet or coolant sensor. I will tonight. I have a buddy who works at a shop and we put it on the lift, the 02 sensor was not grounded, but whoever replaced the sensor cut off the wiring harness and wired it wrong, we rewired and the snapon computer said it was now getting a signal, but was extremely low, they used really cheap wire connectors so i bought a new harness and sensor and will be replacing tonight also. could it be that from hooking it up wrong it broke the resistor inside the sensor?

yes, this is awesome, so you found some bad wiring in the oxygen sensor harnass/circuit? this might change everything now. very good , keep me posted, do that first, because you may not need to check the ect

Alright, So I checked my fuel pressure and am getting a constant 50psi even when cracking the throttle. We found the wiring harness was cut off, so we replaced the harness and sensor, truck runs good now! The codes went away too. However after a few days, I got a code p0133 '02 sensor 1/1 slow response' The truck drives fine, with or without the engine light on. What are some causes of this code? Could the sensor be defective? Could I have a whole new set of problems?

awesome, see you never know what others have done to a previous vehicle until you inspect it. why they did it? I cannot begin to understand. but I do not believe you are looking at another set of problems. I think the o2 is faulty, there is a way to test it, I will let you know in the next post. or the wiring and or harnass like the other sensor. anyway good work . I am very happy about this. look out for the next email/post for the instructions on checking the o2.
jody

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_oxygen_sensor.htm

we used a snap-on computer and watched the voltage to the pcm in real time, while driving around town, all voltage to and from the sensor was correct. I reset the light and it hasnt come back in a few days, So it seems everything is well! Of course now that I say that, something else will break!

very well, keep me posted please

Will do, doing a tune up tomorrow or Friday, oil change, o2 sensor, filters, all the good stuff. I heard a lot of people talking about SeaFoam, Is it any good? and for my engine, Chrysler 360ci 5.9 v8, Which vaccumm line feeds all my cylinders? The brake booster or the PCV valve? Thank you for putting up with all of my questions

seafoam is great, I would not use the brake booster, use something smaller like the pcv, they both feed all cylinders

what is the reasoning behind that? Will the brake booster hurt anything?

if your talking about doing a top engine clean which will clean all the cylinders from the built up soot, and your gonna suck it through a vacuum hose, the smaller the better, because your gonna need to pinch the hose and the brake hose is just too big to be doing that. you pinch the hose to let the seafoam into the engine, in small tiny bursts, because we dont want to lock the engine up, yes that is a possibility only if you let too much in at a time.