When i put my car in drive it jerks?

Hello,

It sounds like you have a engine misfire here is a gudie to help you fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down this guide and report back.

The codes that apper are, P0113,P0102,P0315...the p0102 i think i know what it is theirs a hose on the right hand side of the motor, and air is escaping but i dont know the name of the hose...thank you for your time...

I doubt a vaccuum leak is causing the inlet air temp sensor circuit high voltage.Also would cause the P0315 crank sensor not learned.

The motor is 3.5 the line i'm talking about is complety broken,on the right side , its a line that has a green knob that you can screw off, the line goes all the way downlike were the cat is...

Its not the egr tube is it?Do you have a scan tool that reads live engine data?

here is a pic of the part im talking about,is thisthe code p0102,,or what could the problem be...

Looks like the canister purge solenoid nipple broke off.No a vacuum leak isnt going to cause your P0102.

Theres the trouble tree for the code P0102

Thank u for evreything,I fixed the problem it was the 2 wieres that were disconected on the plug on the temperture air sensor,the car works fine now, but the check engine still on they told me I had to reset the computer,for it to shut off.can't I just disconnect the battery..

Your welcome thats what were here for.Why dont you just go to a auto parts store and have them clear the code?That way ou will know if it comes back it wont be in history.

I am considering purchasing a 2007 Chevrolet Malibu. Before committing to the sale I took the car for an inspection and the mechanic said he got a cynclinder #4 misfire and needed to run a diagnostic to isolate the problem. I just spoke with the mechanic and he said he believes the car has a worn compression ring. He said they did an oil "something" check and compression went back up and the check engine light went off and the car is running fine but he doesn't know if it will come back on or not. He said if it does it will need a new engine. Do you think I should buy this car?

You've already been told it might need an engine. Unless you are buying that car for a song, no, stay clear.

Yeah but he said only if the problem comes back. What is the probability that the check engine light will come back on? When the car went through the initial inspection he gave it an 8/10 the only deduction was because of the misfire. I just want to be sure I am not backing out of a deal (when I really need a car)for an issue that may be solved.

It's your money. You can risk it all you want. You had a misfire due to low compression and it was disguised by oiling the cylinder wall. That's not a good sign.

Thanks, a lot. I am not familiar with cars, especially the mechanics portion. I don't think its worth it.

I have a misfire in cyl 6. I am getting spark and am reasonably sure I am getting fuel. I did a compression test and am only getting about 10psi in that cyl. I am getting 190psi in cys 2&4. Didn't check 1,3, and 5 because they are on the back and hard to get to. The engine is a remanufactured one from Advance Auto with approx 5000k and 3 months on it. Need to know what steps to look at next: intake gasket, valves, head gasket? The car was running fine until yesterday when it began to stumble under load and the check engine light began flashing. I have not detected any antifreeze in the oil. Any help will be appreciated! Don't want to have to start driving my kid to school and work :)

if it only has 10 psi compression then you have either a valve out of it or a badly damaged piston. go back to advanced and see what their warranty policy is. If it is only 3 months an d5000k it should still be covered. they may have a you take it to a qualified mechanic to verify the problem. but this does not sound good.

Thanks. I will be calling about the warranty on Monday. I think my next step is to pull the valve cover for a visual inspection valves, rocker, and anything else I can see. I'll turn it over to see if the valves are stuck or moving. Can you think of anything else they may ask while diagnosing the claim over the phone? BTW, I bought it as a long block so I just had to install hype intake and components. The rebuilder was Spartan. Have you ever dealt with them? Thanks ~ David

no I've never dealt with Spartan, hard telling where they are located. you could check for a bent pushrod or wrong one installed or like a broken valve spring. The motor should have lasted a lot longer than the mileage you have on it now though.

Problem diagnosed: pulled the valve cover and the rocker are was not bolted in. Was able to retrieve the push rod and it was straight so I thought "cool, I may be able to put this back together..." When I went to clean the threads on the bolt for the rocker arm I realized what I thought was thread lock was in fact the threads from the head... So my first thought was: if I can get the pushrods back where it belongs without pulling the intake manifold and heli coil the head I can probably fix it without pulling the engine (I've only done a three engines over the last twenty years so it will be a pain...) but after I thought about it, something caused the threads to rip out so it I "fix it" I may only get a few months out of it and then I'm back to where I started... The good news it that it's not something I screwed up so it should be a pretty simple warranty claim. Problem is, time is money, if I'm gonna turn wrenches I'd rather it be my jeep than a '03malibu. Any thoughts?

I tmay not have gone in all the way or the threads were screwed up when they were put in. did you install the rocker? if not then they will probably give you another head and gaskets. but contact where you bought it first to see what they will do

Tighten the rocker arm bolts to 14 N.m (124 lb in). Use the J 36660-A in order to tighten the bolts an additional 30 degrees.
incorrect torque will strip rocker arm bolts from head. You can use a heli coil for repair it is 8mmX1.25 but again see what warranty will cover.

When my engine is cold (has not been running for a while) and I go to start my car, the engine acts like it is misfiring. However, if I rev the car up a bit and wait a minute or so the misfire stops every time. Then once the engine is warm it runs like a champ. I can stop it and start it with no problems. But if I let it set and cool down the misfire comes back. I have tried putting sea foam and fuel injector cleaner in the tank neither of which worked. What can I do to try and fix it?

Do you get back smoke from the tail pipe starting it cold? Also any codes?

Very little smoke, but a very strong fume smell! I put a reader on it, I do not remember the number, but the code was for a fuel injector on cylinder four.

It would really help have the exact code numbers not code descriptions.

My car has a mis-fire and times. The light flashes on and off (engine service light) on the dash. When it flashes the car doesn't run well, and it seems to have a mis, no acceleration. At other times the car runs perfectly well. Like tonight when I left work, it was running rough, it then straightened out and ran smooth, when I was almost home it again, ran really rough, and the light on dash was flashing. Any thought on what this could be. Thanks for any assistance in this matter.>>kay

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

Engine Mechanical problem 2005 Chevy Malibu 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 105000 miles My car has a mis-fire and times. The light flashes on and off (engine service light) on the dash. When it flashes the car doesn't run well, and it seems to have a mis, no acceleration. At other times the car runs perfectly well. Like tonight when I left work, it was running rough, it then straightened out and ran smooth, when I was almost home it again, ran really rough, and the light on dash was flashing. Any thought on what this could be. Thanks for any assistance in this matter.>>kay

Reply: the "Fault Code" P0141; O2 sensor heater, (which one?)

Cyl#4 Misfire, Code#P0304

Hope this helps trouble shoot the problem..thanks for all your help!!>>kay

1st Go at P0304-check sparkplug, compression and injector for cyl no. 4

When driving once I pass 30-35 miles the car feels like it will die out... it chugs a bit and then it is fine and will do it again @ 40-45 miles.... had someone hook it up to a dignostic and found nothing wrong w/it. Pls help

Inspect the test all the following listed below:

Oxygen sensor
Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)
Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Cap and rotor

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

I shut my car off for apprx 15 minutes then restarted it now it is misfiring. i have replaced the sparkplugs, coilpack, mapsensor, cadillac convertor what else could it be?

Engine running rough or misfiring can be cause by the following:

1.Defective spark plug
2.Inadequate spark/coil,defective spark plug wire.
3.Lack of compression
4.False air leakage.
5.Faulty fuel injectors.
6.Insufficient fuel pressure.
7.Contaminated fuel.
8.EGR valve that is leaking.
9.Oxygen sensors.
10.Throttle position sensor.
11.Idle air control valve.

This car had head gasket leak. We replaced all of the top end gaskets new plugs new wires cam sensor crank sensor and timing chain. I have double checked timing and it is right, but car has no power and is hard to start, checked for spark and it seems okay. When the car runs the SEL blinks, could the cat be plugged or possible a bad temperature sensor confusing the ECM. Thanks in advance. Joe

Blinking CEL isn't good. Toss a scan tool on it and see what the misfire says. Bad cat would cause low power once running but generally not hard starting unless it is completely blocked. It's possible that you have a bad new sensor, happens a lot these days. Junk right out of the box. The scan tool could help you narrow that down.

Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Chevy Malibu 87000 miles

I have a chevrolet 2004 classic malibu.
I will be driving and in the stop light my car jerks and
shuts off on me and i just restart the car and it will start.

sounds like the transmission is not down shifting is the check engine light on and how many miles is on the car lsauto

need to see if you got a wiring diagram for my 2000 chevy Malibu LS 3.1L. did the head gasket job on the car and now we are getting to the part where it should start. but it wont its misfiring and theres a wire missing off the coil package(NOT THE SPARK PLUG WIRES)

does it run?????????????

look around for a connector with no home. there is a 4 wire and a 2 wire connector

Roy

No it doesn't run
it has fire but wont start
and when we apply gas it back fires and then starts to smoke from the engine