Motor not starting up

Well they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It started right up for them and it never died for them apparently. It hasn't started right up without having to crank it a couple times in over a year. Now all of a sudden it started right up for them. They did run the computer on it and it came back to a Crankshaft position sensor. That is something other people with this same problem replaced and it didn't fix the issue. So I'm going to replace it but I doubt it's going to fix it. I'm definitely thinking it's a fuel pump. Others are saying that while the car sits, the fuel pressure bleeds out of the pump thus causing it to have to be cranked a couple of times to build the pressure back up to get it started.

Crank and cam shaft sensors are prone to fail due to heat, moisture and vibration. And will heal themselves
So always suspect and often throw no codes but crankshaft sensor did show up.That would be logical next step. Was fuel pressure checked?
let me know what happens

No they did not check the fuel pressure. They said the car was starting and running fine so they found no reason to go any further than running the code that was throwing the check engine light. I guess it's good b/c then I wouldn't be paying them an hour's worth of diagnosis if they aren't going to find anything but who knows, they could have found something. So all they did was run it on the computer. Nothing more. But yes, the check engine light does come on and off periodically. So you're saying it'd probably be a waste to replace that sensor or should I replace it?

No if crank sensor came up then replace and see if it is the fix. If it is throwing the code then replace

2004 Nissan Sentra 1,8s, The car will turn over but not start. I replaced the spark plugs and the crankshaft position sensor, after it shut off while driving on friday and would not restart. The car started up fine and ran for about 45 minutes on and off after those parts were replaced. Suddenly it died again and will once again turn over but not start. Might it be the ECM or a fuel system issue?

Well I took it out for lunch today and it died on me again. It was running and starting perfectly before that. The mechanic told me to check for spark (as you guys have already told me to do). I'm going to be checking that today after work. If it's sparking then he's thinking it's the fuel pump

You will have to see if its a fuel or spark problem

So would a crankshaft position sensor cause the issues I'm explaining? Would a fuel pressure regulator/fuel pump cause these issues? I know on a honda we had a long time ago it was the same problems and it ended up being the fuel pump. I just don't want to order a $300 fuel pump and that not be the issue. I can change it easily by myself. That's just an expensive guess. lol So my dilemma is, start with the sensor or just jump in with the fuel pump?

I should have added that the fuel pump does turn on. Yesterday I took off the stock air intake and sprayed starting fluid in. The car would still not start right away, but about 30 minutes later it did. It ran idle for about 3 to 4 minutes than shut off again, I had the engine up to 2000 rpms with no problem, fuel flow seemed fine. When it shut down again I noticed that the temperature gauge reading was 1/3 of the way up. After waiting about 5 minutes and respraying some starting fluid, the engine almost turned on again, for a split second.

I would do the crank sensor. Fuel pump should cause aother symptoms and not start up as quickly. And spark test is only valid if eninge is not starting and your able to determine you have either no spark or no fuel.

I should have added that the fuel pump does turn on. Yesterday I took off the stock air intake and sprayed starting fluid in. The car would still not start right away, but about 30 minutes later it did. It ran idle for about 3 to 4 minutes than shut off again, I had the engine up to 2000 rpms with no problem, fuel flow seemed fine. When it shut down again I noticed that the temperature gauge reading was 1/3 of the way up. After waiting about 5 minutes and respraying some starting fluid, the engine almost turned on again, for a split second.

Well it's not starting up quickly at all. It still takes a try or two to get it started. IF it starts on the first try, you have to crank it for 6 or so seconds and then it almost dies out unless you give it some gas to keep it running.

My car is going through the same issue. I just picked it upfrom the shop and it said Crankshaft Sensor code. i talked to one of my friends who has an altima 2.5L which has the same QR25DE engine as my sentra and he had the same problem and changed his sensor and his car was fixed. funny that i am now having the same problem. it only cost him $125 to get it fixed at the shop.

I am having the same issue you. Did changing the Crankshaft sensor work? Also, is the Crankshaft sensor the same as the camshaft sensor?

Engine Performance problem
2004 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 50000 miles

a couple weeks ago my car kep wanting to die at stop signs. I got to my destination, it sat for a while and then it started and was fine. Now it won't start. It turns over but just won't start.

Hello –

To better assist you I need to know if you have just the Sentra, or the S, SE-R, or the SE-R Spec V. Also, I need to know your engine size in liter.

Next, please go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O’Reilly’s (OR) and use their loan a tool program and check out a code scanner to check the codes on your car. Once you check your codes, if you find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that.

We need to figure out if it is electrical or fuel related. Pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don’t have your hands on any part of the metal!!! If there is no spark, then it is electrical.

If you are getting good spark then spray some starting fluid in the throttle body and try to start it and see if it tries to start then.

You may need to get a fuel pressure check on the fuel pump to ensure it is putting out okay. We will see.

Please do the above and get back with me.

Service engine light came on. drove it for two days, put snap-on scanner, forgot trouble code number but something like camshaft position sensor or wiring to it. I cleared code and left car overnight, next morning did not start, replaced sensor and it still won't start.

Are you getting spark and fuel to the engine? Any chance of a broken timing belt?

2004 nissan sentra. car is not starting , i just replaced the battery , i hear the sound you suppose to hear from the feul pump when you turn it over .gas is in the car . could it be in my plugs or could it be the starter .

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 52000 miles

My car has had significant starting problems (May take a few minutes to start, especially when cold outside) then will idle very rough for 5 seconds or so and die if i don't push the gas pedal most of the time. i know others have had this problem but im not sure if its the fuel pump regulator or the crank sensor problem or someother problem. While driving at slower speeds and sometimes idling, it also makes a sound of liquid passing through the engine.
I notice this problem to come about in mornings and when i take it to work and let it set for 5-7 hours.

Hi marmitage,

Thank you for the donation.

Does the Check Engine Light shows while driving?

When starting from cold, engine rpm does not go up to more than 1500 rpm?

yes the check engine light turns on sporatically, it is not on at the moment. when starting it doesn't go beyond 1500 rpm unless i push the gas pedal.

Since CEL has shown sporadically, get a scan done to find what is causing it. The codes could be related to the difficult starting and rough idling.

Most parts stores provides the scanning service either free or for a nominal amount. Let me know the exact trouble code.

A few months ago i had my car checked by a mechanic who discovered the codes and supposedly cleared them. This turned off my check engine light for less than 50 miles and then it turned right back on. I will follow up with the mechanic and find out the codes. Thank you

cranks but will not start I have changed both crank and camshaft shaft position sensors with no luck. it is not getting any spark at all what could be the problem and how do I fix it? thank you

try a security system reset that may be the problem. if you have dirty battery terminal ends that may be the cause. see link
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

The vehicle has a passlock system on it and a regular old key I have tried just about everything and I have cleaned both the battery terminals as well as the connections

try another key not a new one see if it starts then if it does not work then have a mechanic scan for codes may be something wrong with system.

Have tried the key trick and of course did not work and I have had it scanned but it is not show any codes I have even pulled both the coil packs on each plug and the plug to check for spark and no spark at all.

if you used the cheap auto parts code readers they will not read security system only engine/transmission so have a mechanic do it

I had a mechanic do it and sat there and watched him and looked at it as well

ok and it showed no codes? then check all fuses under hood and ecm relay under hood see pic. also check fuses in dash if you haven't already.

2004 Nissan sentra- intermittent starting problem.
Ongoing problem- sometimes all it takes is moving the car forward a few inches, or slamming the door and it will start. Once it even started right up after just sitting for a couple hours.
All other power is on..
The engine does nothing , no cranking at all. note- with key turned on, the car will not go into neutral.
Most of the time this car starts right up- today we can not get to start at all. any ideas?? appreciate any help you can give.

Do you have a check engine light when it does start?

You sure its not an anti-theft device issue if not -start by having the ignition switch

We recently bought a 2004 Nissan 1.8L, its always had a delay (on occasion) with starting-it tries to crank and you have to turn it off and try again and it starts.
It hasnt been a big deal since its always started (the previous owner said it was when the AC is on but I noticed it with or without).
Recent issue is that the car wouldnt crank at all, no click, nothing. We cleaned the acid off of the battery posts/cables and jumped the car. It ran fine for a couple of days. Then again, it stopped starting. We replaced the alternator and jumped the car, turned on the AC and the lights dimmed and turned the AC off and back on and it died, tried to start the car, it just clicked. (sometimes it clicks, sometimes it does nothing) The only way to start it was to jump it. We got a new battery, same thing, only jumping it would start it and it was having problems cranking (took a loooong crank to start). We drove it and it died while foot on gas. Jumped it again to get it home, made it a mile and died again.
Please help! What else can we check?

So what is your charging voltage at idle?Do you have a multimeter to do some testing?

The alternator reads at 14.5ish, it stays steady, the battery is the same unless the car is running, it drains when it is connected to car. When reading it, it was slowing decreasing, this is why the car dies after driving it for awhile (we just figured out). Any idea's what to look at? I super appreciate all of your help!!!

If its just a battery draining while its shut off why is the car dieing while driving?That sounds light more then just parasitic drain the alternator if working correctly should over come for that.The way to find the drain would be to get a multimeter that can measure milliamp and amp draws when hooked inline with the battery cable.Then you would pull one fuse at a time watching untill the draw went away then figire out whats on that circuit and go from there.

Thanks for all of your help. It was the positive battery cable post. Replaced the tip of it and car started right up and kept the charge.