Motor not starting up

There are many possibilities and the knocking noise and low oil level does not bore good tidings.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

The above link shows what to check for if you are able to crank.

Well i have narrowed it down i got 2 codes P0300 and P1111 now the one that concerns me atm is the Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve. This is a $200 part that i can only find at a dealership how can i tell this is bad? now we checked my timing and the timing lines up fine but....the marks on the chains dont line up with each other every thing else lines up like the mark on the crank and the dot tot he side but the chains have 2 yellow lines on them and they wont line up is this a problem??? thanks

I do not know how many turns of the crankshaft is required to make the timing marks lined up but it can be between 30 to 70 turns.

Remove the spark plugs and keep turning the crankshaft to check if the timing marks are correct. If they had jumped tooth, you can have the )1111 code.

Well the timing is Fine now and its down to the P111 code the Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve. i found one on a website for sale but its for the 1.8L is this safe to use in my QR25DE model? or do you know a place i could try to get this part for cheaper besides the dealership cause a $200 fix and not positive if this will make the motor run or not is a big price.....

Unless they are interchangeable (have the same prt number), otherwise I would not recommend using a 1.8 component for a 2.5 engine.

Sorry I am not able to help on getting the part. How about trying the junkyard?

yeah we tried junk yards everywhere around here and none have my car go figure my luck there...i got it all put back together last night and it wants to turn over it almost does everytime but it just wont turn over can you possibly think of anything else besides this solenoid that would cause that? i was possibly thinking my fuel pump but it sounds like it's working i just never checked yet if you can think of anything at all please let me know

I would sugggest checking the fuel pressure and main relay.

Have you checked the compression?

The solenoid would cause difficult or non starting as it changes the valve timing and can result in compression losses.

Did you test the VTC solenoid operations?

We just checked the VTC it does work but when we had it in the plug we left it out of the motor and try to quick roll it over to see if it would work then and didnt i assume the plug is bad....or the harness if you will...is there a fuse for the VTC???? or do i need to replace this plug and if so do you know of a place to get one?.....one other question where in the hell do you find a Fuse diagram for the my car the 04 nissan sentra SE-R Spec V cause there isnt one in the manual and we checked everywhere online and we cant find one at all

It is strange that our database does not have the labelling of the fuses.

Go through the following and see if you can come up with anything.

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

1. CHECK IVT CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT

a) Turn ignition switch OFF.

b) Disconnect intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness connector.

c) Turn ignition switch ON.

d) Check voltage between intake valve timing control solenoid valve terminal 2 and ground with CONSULT-II or tester.
Voltage: Battery voltage

OK or NG

OK: GO TO 3 .

NG: GO TO 2.

2. DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PARTS

Check harness for open or short between intake valve timing control solenoid valve and ECM relay.

Repair harness or connectors

3. CHECK IVT CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE OUTPUT SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR OPEN AND SHORT

a) Turn ignition switch OFF.

b) Disconnect ECM harness connector.

c) Check harness continuity between ECM terminal 11 and intake valve timing control solenoid valve terminal 1.

Continuity should exist.

d) Also check harness for short to ground and short to power.

OK or NG

OK: GO TO 4.

NG: Repair open circuit or short to ground or short to power in harness or connectors.


4. CHECK INTAKE VALVE TIMING CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE

Refer to "COMPONENT INSPECTION ".

OK or NG

OK: GO TO 5.

NG: Replace intake valve timing control solenoid valve.

5. CHECK INTERMITTENT INCIDENT

Refer to "TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR INTERMITTENT INCIDENT ".

INSPECTION END



COMPONENT INSPECTION

INTAKE VALVE TIMING CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE

1. Disconnect intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness connector.

2. Check resistance between intake valve timing control solenoid valve terminals 1 and 2 under the following conditions.

Refer to diagram.

well we did all that and found that yes the solenoid works but the plug does not....where does the wires lead from the back of the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve lead too?? a diagram would help too or if you could explain where it goes not just a part cause then i gotta figure out where that part is too thanks for the help

It leads to ECM terminal 11 and goes from the solenoid into the firewall harness.

Sorry I do not have any diagams to show you but you need to note the color of the wire and back track it to the ECM.

yeah the wire is 2 green wires one with a yellow stripe and one with a silver stripe but i see them leading into my coil packs for some reason unless they have multiple wires the same color idk

also where is the ECM located in my car?

There will be a bunch of components that has the Green/White (silver) wire as that is the common wire for these components and the coil packs do uses the same wire.

What you need to check would be continuity between ECU terminal # 11 the solenoid for the Green/Yellow wire.

Right side of firewall

thanks man that really helped a lot and its all fixed still would not start though =( just my luck huh? took it to the shop and they told me that only 1 out of 4 cylinders are working that 3 of them need pressurized back up? not really sure what he ment by this could you possibly explain how this is done?

Compression could have dropped due to non starting for extended periods. Remove the spark plugs and test the compression. If they are low, pump a little engine oil into the cylinders via the spark plug holes and crank the engine for a few seconds without the spark plugs. Retest the compression. If compression has increased, reinstall the spark plugs and try starting again.

Ensure the battery is strong and you have good cranking speed.

are there any type of special tools you will need to do this? and how do you one test the compression and do you know what it should be at?

You need a compression pressure gauge which can be loaned from parts stores that provides such services.

Compression pressure should be between 154 - 181 psi.

With spark plugs removed, install the pressure gauge onto one cylinder and with accelerator fully depressed, crank the engine foe a few turns and seee the reading. Repeat with all other cylinders, keepng the cranking similar for each cylinder.

There should be no more than 15 % of compression pressure between cylinders.

Alright i got to be getting annoying by now but i like i said i have to pressurize the cylinders none of them are near that psi they are all 90psi or 30psi so how hard is it to take off these heads? do you possibly have some step by step instructions to do this with some pictures please?

This is not going to be easy and would required detailed explanation if you have never done this before.

Don't jump the gun first.

Remove the spark plugs. Pump 2 cc of engine oil into each cylinder via the spark plug holes. Depress the accelerator pedal fully and crank the engine for 5 seconds. Stop for a minute. Repeat cranking for another 5 seconds. Test the pressure again. If the pressure is up to specs, reinstall the sprak plugs and other components and retry starting.

Yea we got nothing didnt work bud the Pressure was still around 90psi or some of the cylinders was at 30psi what would be the next step?

Guess you would have to check the valves for leaking. Recheck the valve timing first. Remove the camshafts and apply regulated compressed air into the cylinders via the spark plug holes and note if there are any leakages from the intake or exhaust manifold. Repeat for each cylinder.

If there are leakages, then you have bent some valves when the engine broke doen initially.

well we were informed that the head gasket is possibly bad how do we exactly get to this we are stuck i got the cam spocket off and the timing chain off and suspended that was a pain but how do i exactly get the top of the motor off?

After removing anything that is linked to the head, manifolds etc, loosen the cylinder head bolts and you would be able to remove the head since you have already taken the chains off. Did you turn the engine so that the timing chains links matches up before removing the sprockets?

thanks man helped alot yeah i put the car in time before removing the sprockets the head is off now there is some black on the pistons like carbon built up but nothing major ummm cylinder 1 and 4 are up and 2 and 3 are down what do you take on that? everyone keeps telling me now to check the valves how hard and pricy of a fix could this be if there is something wrong?

The pistons are lined up correctly.

Check the valves and not if any are not seated evenly, an indication of bent valves. If the valves are seated evenly, remove the valve springs and check if they all move freely. Using grinding pastes, lap the valves and use petrol to test them for leakages after lapping (grinding) them.

If there is anything wrong with the valves, worst case scenario would be to replace the head but most likely you would need to replace the valves at the most. Lapping (grinding) of valves would be required if they are replaced. You can send them to specialist shops to have them perform the job for you.

ok i will be working on the valves later tonight thanks for that now mechanic said compression problems could be piston's like the piston rings are fried everyone keeps telling me i need to take the bottom half of the motor out to check them is this true? if not how can i do it with the bottom part of the motor still hooked to the tranny if its possible

Look at the liners and note if any are scored, that would be an indication of bad piston rings. Usually piston rings would be damaged by overheating and if none had occured, the possibility are low.

If the valves are in good order, then you would have to check the piston rings. It is easy to check for bent valves. Since the cam shafts were aready removed, the valves should be seated evenly. Any that is not seated evenly at the combustion chamber side means the valve is bent.

The lower portion of the engine can be remove from under vehicle without engine removal from vehicle but it is not easy to work with and installation requires extra care and as sealants would have to be used, you need to get all the oil cleaned and surface areas dried.

Well came back the valves were fine can you give me a better detailed layout on how to take out the pistons? wile the block is still in well the bottom part of the motor that is....thanks

just ignore that picture i didnt mean to put that on there

First thing you need to do is to remove the oil pan.
Afer that you can remove the pistons one by one.

Hey im having trouble removing the oil pump to get the my 1st and 2nd cylinder i know its a 12point or star socket at least i believe so same as i use to get the piston's off but i tried a 10mm and it was too big and a 9mm is too small =\ so what do i use???? how do i get this damn thing off.....Also the piston in Cylinder 4 is basically stuck i cant get it to come out through like i did with cylinder 3 that piston just came right out in a few hits....is there a little trick i can do to get the piston out of cylinder 4?

I believe it is the oil strainer you are refering to. Our database does not have any information on the type of bolt head used and if I remember correct, it should be a torx bit bolt head.

Spray some rust penetrant between piston #4 and cylinder walls and allow to soak for a while. It should help to free up the stuck piston. Use a wooden bar and hammer to tap against the connectng rod to push it outwards.

While car running fifteen mph engine stop, in two (2) locations turn on and stop again. We had to tow it home. when I perform TS engine cranks but will not start. All fuses are okay, No spark, fuel working.

Hello,

It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor has gone bad, but to be sure take a look at this article to do some other checks and get back top us.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start


Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 120,00 miles

I have a 2004 Nissan Sentra that has had trouble starting. If it sits for a decent amount of time (couple of hours at least) it more than likely won't start on first crank. If it does start, it putters and dies. It will eventually start and run perfectly. Well today my fiance was driving down the road and it died out of nowhere. I went to pick her up. Went home to call a towing company. I came back to the car (about 30 minutes later), turn the key 5 times to turn the power on but not start the car. Then it suddenly started when I tried to start it. Took it down to the gas station to put gas in it. I left it running in the lot for about 5 minutes and it died again and now won't start again. Any ideas what it could be?

Hi
Any check engine light on? Suspect fuel pump can you hear pump run? Need to check fuel pressure. Also check for spark pull plug wire hold 1/4 in. from block spark?
Let me know
Thanks for donate

I did hear the fuel pump running. The Check Engine light was on but we ran it and it said something about an o2 sensor. that was changed and it went off and now nothing. i haven't yet checked for spark. it's now on it's way to the shop. i'll have to go up there over the weekend and check and see if there's spark.
Apparently this is a common issue with nissan sentras and the only person i've ever found that had success in fixing it had to have his timing chain replaced. does that sound like something that would fix this problem?

Hi
Been out with flu so could not respond. Not sure it Timing issue. What happened at shop?