shuts off while driving?

When I check the truck with my scan tool it shows no code is that normal with this problem.

yes it can and sometimes it will show an O2 sensor or a 171/174 code.

HELLO, I HAVE A 2001 GMC YUKON- 122121 MILES- 4WD AUTOMATIC...THE PROBLEM IS THE TRUCK WILL LOSE GAS POWER WHILE DRIVING. IT WILL NOT SHUT OFF THOUGH. IT HAS HAPPENED BEFORE A FEW TIMES BUT THEN STOPS ALL TOGETHER WHEN I GET READY TO FIX IT. DURING A ROAD TRIP THIS WEEKEND, WHEN THE GAS PEDAL IS DISTRIBUTED EVENLY AND SLOWLY IT WILL SPUTTER TO 45-65 MPH, THEN DROP WHEN TRYING TO SHIFT TO FOURTH OR NOT SHIFT AT ALL . THEN I'LL STOP AND THE PROBLEM WILL GO AWAY FOR A WHILE. ONLY TO RETURN. LONGEST TIME PROB WENT AWAY WAS 2 MNTHS. I HAVE TRIED ADDING FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER AND PREMIUM GAS. THE PROBLEM HAPPENS OFTEN WHEN TANK IS LOW BUT ALSO WHEN FULL NOW. OTHER OPINIONS FROM POEPLE ARE BATTERY CABLE, FUEL PUMP, FUEL FILTER, AND O2 SENSOR. IT STILL STARTS AND WORKS BUT NEEDS FIXING, PLEASE HELP! THANKS IN ADVANCE.

Id definitly change the fuel filter , and install a manual pressure gauge to verify pressure.Could be a pump on its way out.Check all battery connection for corrosion/poor contact

I was just wondering if you've resolved the gas/power problem you wrote about here. I posted a very similar problem that I was/am having with my 1999 Yukon under the title "99 Yukon won't accelerate for 10-20 seconds." The power loss/lack of gas probably doesn't actually ast that long, but it definitely feels like it when I'm pulling out into heavy traffic and have no power! It only seems to happen when the engine is warmed up. For me, the problems started after I had a fuel pump replaced. When the problem started, the first thing I replaced was the fuel filter. That didn't help at all. I had a fuel pressure gauge put on for a couple of weekends and, of course, it never did it when the gauge was hooked up. My battery was replaced shortly after the fuel pump went out (and my alternator, too), so I don't think it's a corrosion/connection problem. I guess I'll try the 02 sensor next. Also wondering if it's related to the cat converter. I'm curious if you've had any luck figuring out the source of the problem. :?:

The battery keeps getting drained...took it to oriellys and they daid it was a good battery...then took the car back to oriellys and tested the alternator...they said it was ok as well....I had to jump start it this morning and got about half a block away when I heard and lound clicking noise and all the instruments on the dash went to their off position and the car died....any suggestions on what is causing this.....

Did the clicking sound come from the engine compartment? Have you checked the serp belt for damage? Even though the car died, is the battery dead too?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi I turn the key it starts and runs for about a second or 2 then dies when i step on the peddle sometime it tries to rev up and other doesn't do anything just dies I have replace the fuel filter first. the car sat for about 6 month yes the line had some waster thats why i replaced the fuel filter

could use you help

Thank you
Hector

Check your fuel pressure to make sure you have good pressure. I think it needs to be about 40-60psi. IF thats ok then if you have a cable actuated throttle body i would look at the idle air control valve.

The fuel pressure spec is 60 to 66 PSI and cannot be below 55PSI.
Check to see if you have a security light on or flashing when you try to start it.

I've owned this truck for over a year now and havent had a single problem. Last night while driving home from work, I was sitting at a stop light (after about 20 minutes of driving) and the car stalled at the light. Now the car will start, idle rough for about 5 seconds, then stall. It just wont stay running. I hear the fuel pump working, I have pressure in my fuel rails, I checked the fuel pump fuse and seleniod, and its not that. Do you have any ideas on what to check for. If i unplug my TPS, same thing. If i unplug my mass air flow sensor, same thing. I no clue where to go from here, and I cant get it anywhere to get the code read. Please let me know what you think.

You really need to check the fuel pressure with a gauge. It might not have enough pressure. As for the codes, it should be scanned as well. You can check our online store for an inexpensive scan tool or code reader and have it shipped directly to you. There is a link at the bottom of this message.

2004 GMC Yukon. Pass lock on top of ignition tumbler. My truck would shut off while driving. Any temperature. Any speed. Would also start back up right away. It became bad. Put in gear- stop running. Reverse? Stop running. I popped the top cover off of the steering column and relieved the tautness of the jimmy rigged wire. Happy Thanksgiving. I’m sitting in reverse right now. About to go eat turkey.

So is it fixed? can you send a picture?