ABS c1185 trouble code

Both the ABS (yellow) and brake (red) lights come on. Rear brakes were cleaned by using a solvent, not sure what it was. Then they were rinsed with water and air dried. This was all done with a high pressure hose. Then the rear brakes were adjusted. Front pads were replaced after one mile of driving, the lights turned on and the van was returned to the repair shop. Everything was rechecked and the tech was not sure about what was happening. Advised me to drive van for a few days to break in the pads. The light went back on, I returned back to the repair shop and he ran a scan and it showed the above code(C1185). He again was unsure, so he replaced pads again. The light continues to come on and off. So I took the van to the dealer where I was told that I needed to replace the ECU which I mentioned in the prior message. The van currently has 36,000 and this was the first set of replacement pad and rear adjust done. Do you have any advise?

The problem started approximately four weeks ago. Both the ABS and the brake light come on immediately when the vehicle is warm. Sometimes they will not come on at all when the vehicle is cold. I brought to a Ford Dealer and they hooked up their computer and diagnosed that the ECU and HCU need replacement. At first I tried cleaning the rear brakes and adjusting them. No luck. I did a visual inspection on the ABS sensors and they appeared in good shape. I am stumped!

Sorry I did not reply right away. (work issues) I drove the van as you suggested (slowly accelerating to twenty five mph and hard acceleration to twenty five mph or more). The lights did not come on. However, my wife drove the van in the rain and went through a few water puddles and the lights came on. So the acceleration test did not cause the lights to come on but going through water puddles did. So now, the lights come on: 1. if the car has been driven a long time. Restarted and driven again without a chance to cool down. 2. Driven through some water puddles. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, my name is Jeff from Charlotte, NC (Nascar capital) and I am a first time user. I just happened to cross this thread and joined so that I could give you my two cents. I have a 2003 Windstar SE Sport with the same exact problem. I have been trying to figure this out for quite a while now. I have not been able to figure out if it is heat or speed that triggers the lights to illuminate. It is always both yellow (ABS) and red (e-brake) lights. The problem is sort of intermittent. I have changed the front pads and inspected all the sensors visually and wiped the sensors clean with a mild detergent. A co-worker and I went to the dealership together and bought the same vans (mine green, his silver). He has not had this problem. I have already replaced the alternator and his is fine. Mine has less mileage and stays in the garage. His stays outside and is neglected, yet, he has had no service repairs since the purchase. I believe the vehicles were assembled in Canada. The bottom line is we all share the same problem. I am sure there are many many more out there too. We need to figure out what is causing these lights to illuminate. Lets all stick with this thread until we resolve this issue. My brakes are good, new pads and brake lines bled. The master cylinder fluid level is full. There are no leaks anywhere. Ah, just thought of something. Does any ones brake pedal make a creaking (scrunching) noise when depressed? Mine does and it has nothing to do with the pedal forward adjustment. Does anybody else's brake pedal make scrunchy noises when pumped? Maybe it is a clue. Lets keep thinking and updating. It is 4:30 am and I need some sleep. I shall check back later on. Good night.

Jeff

My name is Dave, I live in New York. I have not had the opportunity to replace my front brakes yet but they do need it. I will try what is suggested and remove the two wire connection on the side of the reservoir and I will get back to you. Everyone, keep this forum updated if anybody has any luck. The dealer makes it sound like there is no choice but to replace the ECU and the HCU. I have another question for anybody who might know, will this cause the vehicle to fail a New York's Inspection? A guy I know who works for Jiffy Lube says it will not fail because of the lights. True or not?

Hi, This in Jeff again. This morning I did as Steve suggested and disconnected the two wire switch mounted on the brake master cylinder forward of the reservoir. Had to remove part of the air filter assembly to get my fat forearm in there to disconnect the switch. Any how, the switch is disconnected. Took the van for a few mile ride with heavy acceleration and braking. Came home and got coffee and cooled van in garage. Went back out and drove five to six more miles using same driving conditions. So far I can report that the lights have not come back on since I disconnected the switch. I am not excited. I will do some highway driving this afternoon and report back. Steve, is this connection related to the low fluid level indicator in the reservoir or something? I have a brake squeal in the front passenger side that can be heard at low speeds. I knew I should have replaced original with ceramic pads. I will check back later. Have a great day. By the way: Conditions: Hot ninety plus degrees, hazy and humid.

Steve,

I drove about thirty more miles today both on interstate and local. I reached speeds of more than seventy five mph. The ABS and e-brake lights never came on. Also, as you said, the cruise control no longer works. When the engine is not running and the key is turned to ignition, the lights come on and go back off. When the engine is cranked, the lights come on and go back off. I understand that as long as the ABS light is not lit when driving, it is functioning properly. Is this true? Is there something that needs to be replaced? Do you have any ideas what is causing this problem? Do you want me to leave the connector separated or put it back together? What do you suggest that i try next? Please advise. Thanks

Jeff

Steve,

Still driving with the switch in front of the reservoir disconnected. No cruise control-no ABS or e-brake lights. Have driven at least one hundred miles over the weekend. Let me know if there is anything else I can do.

Dave, If you or Frenchbull disconnected the switch on side of the reservoir, please report back with an update. We all would like to resolve this this issue.

One more thing, look at the switches below and side of the resevoir and check for wetness. Report if the wires are wet from a brake fluid leak.

Jeff

Steve,
I was driving with the brake reservoir switch unplugged, but i still have the same problem (the ABS/brake lights still came on after a few minutes of driving).
DC

I have a 2003 Ford Windstar Sport, same problem, ABS and brake light comes on when hot. I took it to the dealer and for $1,000.00 they will replace the ABS module. Not going there yet. is the module a easy to replace with one from a scrap yard? Van drives fine but light bothers my wife.

Cheers

All,

It is hard for me to believe with all the Windstars out there with ABS and e-brake lights illuminated on the dash panel that Ford has not issued a TS bulletin or recall to repair this problem. This does not seem like an isolated incident, it is more like an epidemic. Evidently, some people are paying to have this problem corrected and charging big bucks. Is there not an honest mechanic out there that is familiar with this problem that will just tell us what the problem is and how to correct it without having to do all this experimentation? Is the fix for this some kind of big Ford secret? This seems like a conspiracy. We can put men on the moon, a craft on Mars and perform brain surgery but we cannot figure out how to correct an ABS light issue. Sorry for all the junk talk, but i am frustrated over this. Steve, do you think the people who have both ABS and e-brake lights illuminated have two different issues or do you think it is all related to one thing? I hope someone reads this and can help.

Hi there!

My name is Roman and I live in Orleans, Ontario.
By the way, all Windstars were built in Oakville Ontario, Canada.

I have 2002 Windstar, 125,000 km on it and same problem as the rest of you.
After driving in hot conditions, ABS and brake light comes on. My dealer suggested to replace ABS module and HCU. I am not ready to pay $1,300.00 as I believe that it is not ABS module problem.
The switch that Jeff suggested is known to cause issues with ABS light, it is pressure switch for cruise control unit. It disengages cruise control if you hit the brake pedal.

I will get "C" codes read and will post results here.

Cheers,

Roman

Steve,

What is the name of the replacement switch you would like me to replace so that I can shop for one on Saturday? I believe you were talking about the one that I disconnected under the brake fluid reservoir. Please advise.

PS: By the way, I know you said that you were from MN, are you located near where the bridge collapsed in Mineapolis? That was really tragic.

Jeff

I too have the brake light problem. I also have the engine light that stays on. The codes say I need a new O2 sensor. What that has to do with my brakes, I have no idea. I do appreciate any and all help with both of these things. Where is the O2 sensor? The guy at AutoZone said it could be before or after the catalytic converter.

Hi, just new to this board. I have a 1999 Windstar with traction control. My ABS and "trac off" lights come on intermittently, usually when it is hot out. I had my codes read, and there were a lot! C1185 to start with, and my mechanic said the remainder were probably caused by the C1185.

Hope this information helps everyone get to the bottom of this annoyance.

Terry in Ottawa

Steve,

No, the red brake light does not come on.

My total list of codes is: C1185, C1198, C1194, C1254, C1246, C1250, C1242, C1214, C1210, C1404 and U1262(SCP data related).

Terry

I tried removing the plug on the side of the master cylinder and the lights stayed on. I then tried removing the plug on the front of the master cylinder and got the same results. I then removed both at the same time and got the same results. What next?

My van is a 2003 Ford Windstar SE just like the others and the dealer did not tell me the codes only that the computer indicates that the ECU and HCU need to be replaced at a cost of $1,010.00.

Hey folks,

I have a 2001 Ford Windstar 3.8 L Sport with 95,355 km (about 57,000 miles) on it. About a week ago the red brake and ABS warning lights came on while driving the vehicle (weather was hot 95 degrees F and humid outside). The warning lights on the instrument cluster can be turned off by turning off the ignition and then restarting the engine. The lights (ABS and brake warning) may or may not come on again while driving, since the problem seems to be intermittent. Code Reader (OBD II) retrieves no codes from the PCM.

With the two lights out. I slowly accelerate to twenty five mph. lights did not come on. I repeated from a stop accelerated hard to twenty five mph and still the lights did not come on.

I have at the moment disconnected the the speed control deactivation switch (disconnected the two wire switch mounted on the brake master cylinder forward of the reservoir). I took the vehicle for a test drive and no warning lights on so far. Again the code reader (OBD II) retrieved no codes from the PCM with speed control deactivation switch still disconnected.

The switch mentioned above will remain disconnected and the vehicle will be driven for the next couple of days in this mode. Will keep you posted.

RAK :)

Can we check to make sure the front ABS reluctors are intact on the rotors? Next we need to try replacing the power relay before we do the main ECU. please get back. :D

Hi guys, Russ here from Toronto. My's son's 2003 Windstar Sport (96,000 KM) has the exact problem that is being discussed in this thread. The ABS light and red brake light both are on most of the time.

We just bought this vehicle and today checked and cleaned all the brake components and made sure all the wire and connections were sound. I do believe it is the switch on the font of the master cylinder that is the bug. I was told it was of the "old" style and the replacement switch connects from the side not the bottom. His buddy has a 2002 with the same symptom and it was corrected when he replaced this switch. Am I on the right track?

Steve - All,

I also have a 2003 Windstar SE Sport with the same problem. As Steve suggested earlier, I disconnected the "speed control deactivation switch" located below the brake master cylinder forward of the fluid reservoir. Mine has been disconnected since 7/28 (ten days) now. Neither the ABS or e-brake (yellow or red) lights have come on while driving. I called Ford parts to locate a replacement "speed control deactivation switch" and here is some information:

Speed control deactivation switch
Ford part #: XW7Z9F924BA (9F924) for short
Price: Ranged from $25.44 to $33.58 depending on dealership. Most were $25.44 (US).

Steve, before I replace this switch, you talked about a jumper wire. If you tell me exactly what to do, I will try this test, but you must explain to me what I must do (I do not want to short out anything). You can explain this to me in a side bar or online. If all tests indicate that the switch is the culprit, I will purchase one and replace it. Please advise.

Jeff

Hi Steve, Russ here. When one replaces this switch is there any fluid loss or does the switch not actually contact brake fluid in the master cylinder? (pressure switch)
I am asking if the system has to be bled after switch replacement?
And to clarify the switch position statement, the old switch plugged in from the bottom and the replacement switch I saw has the plug in the right side towards the fender.

Great forum, great help. it will be more then useful when problems arise with my 2002 F-150 (knock wood).

Jeff, thank you very much for getting this information.

Speed control deactivation switch.
Ford part #: XW7Z9F924BA (9F924) for short
Price: Ranged from $25.44 to $33.58 depending on dealership. Most were $25.44 (US).

I will see what the Canadian Price is and let you know.

Thanks Steve. I hope Ford gets their act together. I had my F-150 done but only after a few burned!

Canadian Part number from Ford of Canada for the switch is SW-6351. Listed as a brake repair kit and costs $35.78 CDN. Of course its made in Mexico but has the upgraded connector with the fused link. Hmm, keep the receipts.

I will let you know how things go after I replace the switch Wednesday.

I am having the exact same problem with my 2001 Windstar. I took it to a mechanic and had the code read and they came back with C1185, C1198, and C1214. C1185 is the internal relay for the ABS control module and controls the othe two associated codes. I called a local Ford dealer and the ABS control module costs about $250.00. This problem is intermittent and has been going on for about six months. I will try unplugging the switch on the master cylinder and see if that clears the lights.

I have a 2002 Windstar Sport with ABS light and brake light coming on.

My error codes are; c1185, c1194, c1198, c1210, c1214, c1242, c1246, c1250, c1254 .

I only have one connection to master cylinder. Looks like two wires on the side.

Can someone advise?

Bob

Hello all Scott here from Vermont.

2002 Windstar with close to same problems here.

First off red brake light off in morning, after engine warms up (about ten minutes) red light will illuminate in the following condition.

1) When the vehicles speed decreased to less than two mph with or without braking, the red light comes on. In other words the pedal seems to have nothing to do with it. The red light goes out once I start accelerating again.

The ABS sometimes comes on.

I have a great mechanic that will read the codes for me (for free and twelve-pack when I am done.) Last week when this started there was only a stored code for the right rear wheel speed sensor. He cleared that code and it has not re-occurred.

Since then the ABS light has come one sometimes and it throws the c1185 code.

I have disconnected all my master cylinder sensors and the e-brake switch and the brake light remains an issue subject to the same speed thing described above. When it is cold the problem is not there!

I have tried a master cylinder and the problem is still there. I have a right rear speed sensor on order.

I was getting the brake light and sporadic ABS prior to my brake job. I hoped the brake job would fix it. well at least I know my pads and shoes are good.

My bet is that speed sensor. But hey I am glad to hear I am not alone.

My mechanic's assistant seems to think the only thing that throws the red is the fluid level and the e-brake. I think I disagree, but I am just a Saturday mechanic and a computer programmer. When I replaced the master cylinder I cleaned the float as it seemed sticky. But that did not solve the problem. I wonder if the float is bad?

More thinking on the speed sensor. Rear brake cylinders were bad and I replaced. With them bad, there was little heat generated back there. is the new heat causing the speed sensor to fail? Did any of you have the rear cylinder replaced?

Hello all,

Satdirector back again. 2002 Windstar Sport.

I found the speed control deactivation switch at the front and just under master brake unit.

I disconected and now do not have any ABS or brake light after test drive at all speeds.

Shorted the connecter with copper wire and taped with electrical tape . Cruise control works fine.

Will order and replace switch and post outcome.

Hi Buscop,

To answer your question regarding fluid loss: The Ford shop manual (2001) does not mention fluid loss when replacing the deactivation switch. It cautions you to make sure that the master cylinder reservoir cap is secure before you perform the procedure. However, you are required to add a few drops of brake fluid to the fluid port on the threaded side of the new switch before installation. The shop manual then requires that you check the master cylinder fluid level and adjust if necessary.

Before installing the new switch, disconnect the battery.

Hope this helps.

RAK :D

Windstar 2002 LX 56,000 miles. I had the local shop check codes and I have a list of brake codes all circuit failures. Will try to stop Thursday at get codes list. This seems to be related to the recent recall from Ford for other cars, vans and trucks. I seem to think it is a ground or power problem or a short causing the abs to restart itself. Going on vacation sat not much time to troubleshoot. I called the National Deptartment of Transportation Vech. Safety Hotline 1-888-327-4236, The first step in a possible recall issued. Would suggest others to call. Ford was no help. I am trying to see if a Bulletin was issued.
No information from dealer would not look up TSB's for me. But did say something about short in wiring in headliner being pinched? Take it for what it is worth. 9f924 switch is $26.97 with tax.

Greetings all,

Last night I disconnected the cruise control deactivation switch on the front of the master cylinder and test drove the vehicle at various speeds and tested the brakes from slow stop to very hard stops and the lights did not come on. I will be going on vacation next week and will leave the switch disconnected and install a jumper wire to have cruise control. Overall will be driving about 1,400 miles so this should be a good test to see if the lights stay off. Appreciate all of the help, will let you know what happens. By the way, my sister had an 2000 Explorer and she had the exact same problem the dealer wanted to change the ABS control module and the hydraulic control valve. They just traded it in on a new one.

Well today I replaced the "speed control deactivation switch" with a new unit from Ford. Well those two lights are still lit and our next step will to be to get a code reading then off to the extended warranty people to get them to replace the ABS module as it is covered.

Scott, the original problem was that the ABS and red brake dash lights would come on and stay on while driving. The van was thoroughly checked and all wires and connections were okay.
This was not all the time however. There would be days when the lights stayed off for a whole trip. I guess you could call it an intermittent problem. So doing the age old process of elimination we started at the wheels and are working our way towards the ABS Module. Replacing the speed control deactivation switch (SW-6351) was in the process. It works in some cases.

Next step is to get the codes read, then go after the extended warranty people to replace the module. We will see.
Ford is no help.
Maybe it is time to start Facebook group for Ford Windstar brake problems?

So hopefully our resident mechanics will have something to say soon.

I installed new deactivation switch and brake and ABS lights came back on

So I put the old switch back in and shorted connection to get cruise control back and voila.

The ABS light and brake light are off and the cruise works.

Also hitting the brake deactivates the cruise.

Go figure.

I have the same problem with my 2002 Windstar ABS light. I have over 225,000 kilometers on the van. During the recent hot weather, the ABS light has been coming on. It comes on most after if I have been driving for a while and stop for five or ten minutes and start driving again. I had the problem checked by a good quality repair shop and they advised that the ABS electronic control unit needed to be replace (about $900.00 parts and labor). I decided not to do the repair. I am going to disconnect the cruse control switch on the master cylinder tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.
Thank you for all of the information posted.

Hello guys, I just found this forum. We have a 2003 Ford Windstar SE 3.8L with 41,000 miles on it. We are having the same issue with the ABS and brake lights coming on, maybe we will make to the end of the drive way or it may take a few miles, but will always come on. Took it to a mechanic friend and he said that the codes looked like it was the module but suggested that I take to the Ford shop and let them run their diagnostics on it. While I was pulling in their shop I noticed that the dome lights stated to come the off, flicker, on then off. I was confused.

Ford just called me back and said that the ABS module needed replacing at $500.00 and that they needed to take the head liner off and check the wiring in it for a short, for $72.00. What struck me odd that they knew what to charge for the wiring fix for the dome lights. I am wondering if this is also a known issue?

I read that someone else mentioned about the noisy power steering pump. This was a company vehicle that we bought in 2004 with 13,000 miles on it. We had a lot of these in our fleet and it seemed that every one had that squalling pump.

But my main concern is the ABS module. Should I go ahead and fork over the five large?

The fire was coming from the connector as pictured. I believe the liquidy substance under the connector is brake fluid. What do you think Steve, shoud I have it tested somewhere? What other suggestions do you have? Scott

Steve; I performed the steps outlined in the TSB you emailed to me. I do not have the 2x mark module, pins were not corroded, wires were seated and sealed properly. However, I have connector number 039. What should I do from here? Will Ford install the pigtail at their cost? I have attached some pictures. John

Just in case anyone wants to know where the module is located, I have taken a few pictures.