no spark again

I forgot to say that there is no spark and no fuel, but the fuel pump works and there is fuel pressure in the motor, but no fuel in the cylinders and no spark!

scan for codes, and check fuelpressure with a gauge first. check fuses under hood as well.

Thank you, they cleaned the crank sensor and now the car is running (like crap) and now they are going to scan for codes and check the fuses. At the beginning of this car project before all of the problems, we had taken parts off another car (same size engine) and my car is a chrysler sebring and the car we took parts off of was a chrysler cirrus. We changed distributors, but then put mine back. We changed sensors (IAC, MAP, MAF, Crank, Cam, TPS) and changed the throttle body and the heads. The car sounds and runs terrible and could be that some of the sensors that we changed weren't good. Who knows....but we are going to put scan for codes again and as soon as I get it running decent, I'm selling it, because I still need a heater core and blower motor and that's a lot more money and time consuming. I want to thank everyone again for your help and replys.

I picked up this car from Pennsylvania drove home to Ohio got home it was a good two hundred mile drive about two and a half hours, but got it home let the car sit for a few hours then went for another drive and as I was driving it just dies like its out of gas putters to a stop I hit gas it wont go putters some more then dies then it would be hard to get started, but it would just putter. I let car sit walk home then the next day I get it towed home to start working on it I check fuel spark and compression it got fuel but no spark and the compression is good. Would that mean crank sensor or distributed or cam sensor or what?

scan for codes and try resetting security system if no manual look online on how to do it. you can also check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent. it.https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Okay so I got spark I changed distributor and crank sensor now I got spark and I think the timing is off now because I will start it and it will automatically rev all the way up to redline by itself would that mean that its out of time and how would I get it back in tme

you can't adjust the timing the pcm does check for a vacuum leak and scan for codes along with what I already sent. make sure you don't have any broken throttle cables if any

First off, I replaced my radiator a few weeks ago cuz it was leaking then last week it was losing coolant level really fast (i know the heater core has been out since I had the car but wasn't real bad). I am using parts off of a 99 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5 l v6 engine and this is what has been done so far:
Replaced the water pipe O rings and that fixed the leak.
Swapped distributors.
Swapped IAC
Car started miss firing - spark plug wires were mixed up so fixed that and then ran fine.
Played with throttle - idle up/idle down, ran it up and let off....the car died and now has no spark.
The injectors have voltage, but car won't run.

What did we maybe do wrong?

check fuses underhood then scan for codes

Thank you. I will tell my friend that right away.

my car turns over but produces no spark

Measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire to the distributor, any injector, or either small wire on the back of the alternator. You should see full battery voltage there for just one second after turning on the ignition switch. What's important is the voltage must come back during engine cranking. You can use a test light or a voltmeter to see if that voltage is there.

caradiodoc

i'm not getting a spark from the distributor,my security light stay on when cranking the car..please help

I hate to say this, but if the security light is staying on, the system has shut down the engine. Now the part I hate to say, the dealer is the only place that will have the proper test equipment to diagnose the problem.

Let me know if you have specific questions. If you have a spare key, try it to see if it makes a difference.

Thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Joe

Ok so this is the third time my car has stalled out on me now. I'm thinking that something is gettin knocked loose when I am driving n that's why it stalls out. The first time it stalled out we played under the hood for hrs lookin at it,...it wasn't gettin any spark, then my dad bumped into me and we pushed it home. The second I got it in the Parkin spot I turned it over and it started right up. Oh by the way when it stalls out the engine will crank over forever until finally the battery dies. The second time it happened I played wit every wire I could find to see if maybe one was loose but no luck there it still wouldn't start. So my dad came n was gonna bump me home again with his truck. This time while he was pushing me I turned the the ignition over and it started right up. I've been told loose maybe a loose wire to the camshaft or crankshaft, maybe I need a new distributor cap, that it could possible be the crankshaft sensor goin in and out that why it stated when my dad pushed me. I don't have a clue about electrical and could really use some help.
Thanks
Ray-ray

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge first autoparts rent it

So the only code that comes up is the o2 sensor

check fuses underhood and your automatic shutdown relay also do you have fuel pressure?

All the fuses r fine and as far as fuel pressure I'm not sure becuz the parts store didn't have one to rent out. About six months ago I wasn't getting a positive connection to the automatic shutoff relay so I bypassed it wit a wire goin from the postive battery cable to the automatic shutoff relay. My car broke down at a friends house n they do not have a light tester so I can double check it but I will make sure the wire is still in there good n see if she starts after that

if you jumped it that may be the problem have a local pro look at this as it may be a fuse box problem I have no further suggestions

its not the anti thieft device or the distrubiter or computer or sensor there is no spark why wont the car start

That's not much to go on. What sensor are you talking about? Why did you replace all those random parts? Has anything actually been diagnosed? Which engine do you have?

ok,...it seems like once a month my car has something new going one with her lately. Now she is getting no spark. The car is cranking over like no other, someone looked at it for me, only pulled out one spark plug and then told me its the crank sensor. I wanna know for sure thats wat it is because i'm sure it could be other things. I've had the car for two years now and she's never had a tune-up for instance. it has a coil pack and idk how to determine if that is good or not. anyways i'm gonna go pull the other plugs out right now to make sure they are all not getting spark. where should i start after this to determine the problem???

Thanks,
Ray-ray

If you're missing spark at one spark plug wire, you're missing it at it's mate too so there's no point in wasting time looking at the others. If you were just missing spark at one spark plug, the engine would still run.

Professional mechanics are not psychic, so whoever determined the crankshaft position sensor was defective must be really good. The easiest way to know is if here's a diagnostic fault code set related to that, but it's important to understand that fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're defective. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis. Chrysler makes reading fault codes yourself real easy. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine, then watch the code numbers show up in the odometer display.

If there are no fault codes, the first step is to determine if you also have no fuel. The easiest way is to determine if the automatic shutdown relay is turning on during cranking. You'll need a test light or a digital voltmeter for that test. You listed a V-6 engine and said it has a coil pack. Coil packs were only used on the four-cylinder engines. Which engine do you really have?

The guy who looked at my car was not a mechanic. So that is why I am skeptical he told me it had a coil pack but I know the car is a six cylinder. And my odometer hasn't worked since I have it so gettin a code out of her ain't gonna work. I wasn't getting a positive connection to my starter relay about a month ago but I bypassd it wit a new wire. I'll check it wit a test light again.

Thanks

I'm not sure what you're trying to say in those last two sentences. How did we get from no-spark to a starter problem?

My dad told me that the wire for the stater relay can cuz no spark,...is that not true? I guess I'm lost as well

Nope. He's probably thinking of an ignition resistor bypass circuit used a long time ago. On your car there is no relation between the starter relay and the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay.

If your engine is cranking normally, you will need a code reader or scanner to read the fault codes if the odometer doesn't work. You can test the ASD circuit by measuring the voltage at any injector or either small terminal on the back of the alternator. You will see 12 volts there for one second after you turn on the ignition switch. What is important is if that voltage comes back during cranking. If it does not, the two most common suspects are the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor inside the distributor. The cam sensor has the higher failure rate, but because of the difficulty in replacing it, most people just replace the entire distributor.

Also be sure the rotor is turning. If it is not, the timing belt is broken and valves will be damaged. That, and the loss of compression, will make the engine crank faster than normal.

getting no spark at plugs, no injector pulse or no power at cam sensor connector on distributor. eng.& battery have been removed for 2 weeks. i think theirs a security shutdown issue

I want to say you asd relay, But I thought that was my problem to because it shuts down everything and you will not get spark, you can try it, they are $7 dollars at autozone or even radio shack. But I think it is something inside your distributor. Maybe bad pick up coil or camshaft sensor. I have the same exact problem. I put another distributor on it (witch has problems also) so it still didnt start but the condition got better.

i have checked every thing and i have no spark belt si good rotor turning every thing good but no spark. is there a way to test the coil onthe car thanks al

1. Disconnect the 2-pin electrical connector to the distributor.
2. Measure coil primary resistance between the two terminals on the distributor. 0.6 to 0.8 ohm
3. Measure col secondary resistance between coil hi-tension tower and each of the terminals of the 2-pin connector. Both reading should be between 12,000 to 18,000 ohms.

If any of the three readings out of specs, replace the entire distributor assembly.

coil checke 0.7-.07 on terminals and 14,150 both treminals to high tension?? WHAT DO I CHECK NEXT THANKA AL

Check your ASD relay (on cowl, left rear of engine compartment) and check injector pulse.

what holds this thing besides the bolt?? i can't get mine out to test it thanks al

I believe just the bolt, nothing else.

Last night I was driving my 1997 Chrysler Sebring hardtop and everything was fine. Then, all of a sudden the car just shut off and would not turn back over. We checked this morning and there is no spark coming from the spark plug wires. Just trying to see if anyone has had this happen before I go spend hundreds of dollars for a dealership to tell me whats wrong with it.

Maybe pcm, maybe ignition coils?

You don't have to go to the dealership, independent auto repairs are avaliable and qualified.

WELL, I WORK FOR A CAR DEALERSHIP, THAT IS THE ONLY REASON I GO THERE TO GET MY CAR WORKED ON.

IMHO. might want to rethink if that is in your best interest. I am not familiar with a specific problem that would be consisent to recommend a part replacement.