truck wont start?

Trucked stopped starting with no warning. Replaced starter, wire brushed all connections, replaced lol amp fuse under battery box. When we turn the key starter spins and engages flywheel fine but front of motor barely spins or spins then stops. Motor runs great if pull started. Put screwdriver in teeth of flywheel and tried to turn with front of motor and works like it should

have it checked for a broken crankshaft

Motor runs great when it is pull started. Wouldn't it not run right if it was broken? I been hearing a lot about crank position sensor, what is its purpose?

if the crank sensor was bad it wouldn't run. try a different key for anti theft bu ti think form your description it's crank problem also you may try a reset this way

Just push started truck, fired right up and ran great. No noises wtf?

Electrical problem
1998 Chevy S-10 6 cyl Automatic 70,000 miles
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my chevy S-10 70,000 miles is having problems starting. it was working fine, i went to the bank and made a quick deposit and came back and when i turned the key in the ignition it would make a clicking noise but would not start. the interior lights still turn on but are dim and the radio does not work. i tried starting it again the next day and it does not even make the clicking noise. what could be the problem and how would i fix it?

Your battery, or battery cables, or both...After you fix that, check for a parasitic drain...Get an analog voltmeter remove the negative battery cable, attach the Black lead to the battery post, Red lead to cable end, then pull fuses one at a time, make sure there are no accessories or lights in the on position, Key off! Close the door after each fuse and check meter, when you pull the fuse for the bad curcuit, the meter will drop to 1 volt or so. Check all fuses, even under the hood. If meter does not drop, remove the battery connection from the alternator, if it drops now, the diodes are bad in the alternator. Put the fuse back in were it goes as you go so you don't forget which fuse goes were!

I can't give an answer then I believe the crank is broken due to the flywheel turning with starter but not front of motor. just because it is broken doesn't mean it will make noise. have a local guy give an opinion.

Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Chevy S-10 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 100k miles
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My S-10 won't Start after my daughter stalled it when I was teaching her to drive stick. I have lights on dash and can push start it. Removed Starter and took it and Battery to A.Zone both tested fine. When I turn the Key there is Nothing there just dash lights.

Check fuse IGN C 20amp and Crank fuse 20amp-if okay disconnect the brake switch at brake pedal bracket and jumper it and try to start. Still no crank-jumper small terminal that has the purple wire to the battery terminal on the starter-did it crank if so-replace the starter relay and check ign A maxi fuse 40amp-Still no crank have the igniton switch tested.

My pickup will crank but won't start. THe battery was dead for two months. Charged and Reconditioned the battery. Used starting fluid and it fired but would not stay running. Suspect fuel supply problem either fuel pump or filter. How can I check either for proper function? Any hints or suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Thank you!

First change the fuel filter, and then check the fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is in spec. then it probably is your passlock system (security light). Being that the battery was dead the computer may have to be reflashed.

Truck wont start. Full power but does not turn over at all

Pick your symptoms below check it and get back with some testing results

Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem,Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

No crank at all/nothing/nada when key is engage to starting position

Could be a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay, clutch switch/park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good. Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

Hello, My Chevy s/10 trk ran great then, sat idle for 5/6 days. Then it just turned over but didn't kick in. Sprayed s/ fluid, ran for a few seconds until fluid used up ( fuel issue ?). I took it to my mech. and he said f/pump shot. New f/pump and f/filter and$630.00 later and it ran great for a week or so( used everyday). I went for a week on vacation. Trk sat idle during this time. Now it just turns over and won't kick in like before, but this time I sprayed the s/fluid several times and it caught and now runs great again ?! That was yesterday, this morning it started right up great. It seems that if I leave it for several or more days this problem re-curs. What in the world could cause this bizarre starting problem ? I've had this trk for about 8 years and had no problems starting before. Thks for ur help.

Do a key on engine off fuel pressure test
do injector leak test
Check injector and fuel regulator for leak

Unplug fuel pump wiring harness and check connector if burnt or rusty have to be replaced most replacement pump comes with new pig tail connector to be installed with the new pump

I've owned this truck for almost 5 years now, and beginning about 2 years ago, it developed what I refer to as a spook electrical starting problem. On sometime rare occasions, I turn the key to start and I get nothing. Panel lights go on but will not start when I move the key to start position. No clicks, nothing. I can come back in 15 minutes and it will start. It can be cold or hot outside. In order to keep from being stranded, I rigged a direct wire to the starter. Gear in park, key in on position, I can start the truck from under the hood. I just recently drove the truck for 6 months without this problem, and then it showed-up again. I ordered and replaced the ignition switch and key lock cylinder and thougt I had it fixed. Got in the truck today and it would'nt start. Same old problem! Of course I checked all the fuses and relays a long time ago. What else could it be?

My brother had the same problem, same truck, same year and about the same mileage. Truck would start somtimes, the it wouldnt even turn over other times, nothing at all. It ended up being the starter, his model starter is in a really tight spot, and his model starter is different from most other, something extra on the starter and cost more. If it is a manual and this happens again, try to roll it and pop the clutch to start, if you can pop clutch to start, then it is probably the starter.

When starting the Engine, the engine cranks over but the engine does not start on the first try. The second try the engine usually starts, sometimes it takes a third try. I have replaced the fuel filter but with the same results. I connected a Snap-on fuel pressure guage on the Schrader valve and I saw a reading of 38 while the engine was running. When I turned off the engine the pressure dropped to "0". Is there a check valve in the system? I thought there was a check valve in the gas filter. Is there a problem with the fuel dilivery system?

That is most likely the pump.Check thepressure regulator on the fuel rail, if there is any fuel in the vacuum line replace the reg.If it runs smooth, but is slow to start it is usually the pump

Have a 1998 Chevy S10 pickup that will not start sometimes and is slow to start at other times. If I get under the car and tap on the starter, it will start about 80% of the time. I replaced the starter and had the same problem. I have even replaced the battery. Now, when I turn the key, the relay will click about half the time but will still not start. I have noticed before that the engine had a hard time turning over. ALmost like the flywheel would go around half way and then just stop. The it goes back to the clicking problem. Is this a bad relay or something in my ignition?

Does the battery have a full charge? Are the battery cables/wires all clean and tight on both ends? Can you turn the engine over by hand?

Any testing you do on the starter or starter relay, you need to make sure the tranny is in park or neutral and the e-brake is set.

The starter is a direct replacement for your vehicle? I guess it is possible that the teeth on the flywheel have a problem. The starter bolt holes, are they parallel to the flywheel or offset? I was just curious?

With the key in the crank position and no starter action, is there voltage on the starter field terminal? That circuit goes down in the starter housing, connects to the bottom of the solenoid.

My s-10 has begun having issues starting. When you enter the truck and put the key in the ignition for hte 1st time, lights are on in the cab, dash lights are on, but try to start and usually the starter gives a 1/2 sec attempt and then all goes black. On occasion, if I wait 5-10 minutes and try again, it will start, but that is happening less and less.

Today, I tried and nothing, so I put jumpers on from my other car, let it sit for a few minutes, and it started right up. Turned if off after 5 minutes, and tried again with the jumpers still attached, and got nothing, not a thing.

I am having my son bring the battery in to see if that is the issue, but I doubt that will be it. Where do I start tracking down the problem?

Hi, if your saying, no starter action, when the problem occurs, I'd have to make sure the battery has a full charge and the connections are good. Next, I'd have to check the circuits at the starter relay, underhood fuse box. Voltage for the load/switch side of relay is hot all the time. Voltage to coil side of relay goes hot with the key in the crank position.

When the problem occurs, did you try cranking in neutral?

My truck will not start when it rains/snows, but once it dries up it starts pretty well. I have replaced the plugs, wires, ignition control module (ICM), crankshaft position sensor, and the coil packs. What else could possibly be the culprit when moisture is high? And, what exactly does the ICM do??

Hello, your local autostore may sell a moisture displacer in a spray can. Nonflammable, you spray it on everything, plug wires, wiring connectors, everything. I know some people use wd 40 as a moisture displacer, not sure how safe?

Ignition control module controls the primay circuits to the coil, switches the ground circuit on and off. May also condition the crank sensor signal, where applicable, from analog to digital.

How permanent is the moisture displacement spray?

I don't know how permanent? Some of that I priced on the internet, is out of my price range. I don't know what the autostore might have?

it will turn over then immediately die. Then it will crank for ~10 minutes without turning over. I usually wait then try again. Either it will start, or it will turn over then die immediately. This can happen 2-3 times before it actually starts.
On a few occasions it has backfired when I try to start. Then it will crank but not turn over and this will last ~10 minutes, etc.
Now usually I park on the street but a day ago it was parked in the garage. It did not start. And before this there was a distinct smell of gas in the garage. Eventually it started and when I goit home at night the smell of gas was gone. So I'm reasonably sure the gas smell was from the chevy.

The problem is random; it can go several days, even 2-3 weeks (or months) without the problem occuring. Then when it does occur, it will happen several times over the course of 3-4 days. Then it stops occuring for some period of time.

This has been happening for a long time; but it is only recently that the problem seems to be much more frequent (at least once a week I would guess). Any suggestions?

Sounds like a weak ignition or rich condition maybe from a fuel pressure regulator problem.

Does this seems to coincide with dampness? If so mist water over the plugs and follow the wires back to the coil and see if any runnibility problems start.

When it is a hard start, pull a plug and check for a rich condition (black).

May need to check fuel pressure when the symptoms are present. There is a video on how to on the site if you have a gauge.

My S-10 pickup sat for 6 days in the snow & cold. It was starting and running good when I parked it, but now I can't get it to fireup. The battery has been re-charged.... the engine turns over but won't even fire using starter fluid ! HELP Please. Larry

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

My truck has been having start-up issues recently. Sometimes it will crank and start right away, other times, not right away. Lately it's been turning over, stopping then turning over again and starting. Tonight I tried to start my truck as normal and it gave about half of a turn over then, nothing. I waited a few minutes and tried again with nothing. I turn the key to the on position and everything lights up nice and bright like it should. The starter does not click like when the battery is low and everything is nice and bright like I mentioned earlier. Tried the "popping the clutch" method to start the engine. Seems like the engine wants to keep going but turns off and I get the security light on the dash board. Now the service engine soon light is on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi
Well this could be a fuel problem or a electric problem of what you are saying in the way that the lights are bright and sometimes not. It may be best to have your local garage take a look at this problem.

Truck runs great but when it's raining or very wet out it will not start.

Hi, how long since a tune-up? When the problem occurs, your saying it cranks good but won't start? In the dark, engine running, raise the hood, let your eyes adjust, if you see arching everywhere, you need some new plug wires.

My 98 S10 will not start as the temp drops the truck did this last year i chamged the batt the pos and neg terminal wires. It acts like the batt is dead will.not try the radio lights work but will not start. It started fine all summer and as soon as the temp starts to get cold nothing. I thank you for any info that might help me out

If it won't even crank, I'd have to check the starter circuit. At the starter relay, terminal 30 is hot all the time. Terminal 85 goes hot with key in the crank position and is wired through the clutch switch. Use a digital multimeter across the battery posts, everything turned off, the generic spec for a full charge is around 12.6 volkts. Then leave the leads hooked up on the battery, have helper turn the key to crank, watch the voltage, it should drop some, not below around 9.5 volts, that is a generic spec.

Replaced spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Used WD-40 and contact cleaner on all electrical connectors.

remove the cap and look inside for moisture.spray out the cap with wd40 does it start?