Engine has stalled

Wrenchtech uses a different reference that we do. A better one. According to both references, Pin 22 should be light blue/orange, and be the fuel pump negative enable. For the 4.0 liter engine. Our reference shows the same thing for the 2.3 engine as well.

I understand but pin 22 is white and my pcm is round like a circle and.pin 21 is the color ur telling me and it runs to pin 85 on fuel pump relay

You're not even looking at the right module.

Then where is it rivermike rat sent me a diagram it said by the brake booster on driver side on firewall

Wrenchtech, Mit1 is showing his PCM by the brake booster. What's AllData say about it?

Yes, that's where it is but he's still testing the wrong module.

No mine is differnt it just had a brand new motor put in it not to long ago and the switches

Yeah, sure it is. What do we know..........

It is thats the only plug like that and it has all the wires.ran to it.i cant find anything else with that many wires

I am currently having a problem with my truck choking out or stalling right after it starts. It will run intermittently from time to time but only for a few minutes. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, flushed the tank, replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, air filter, removed catalytic converter, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned throttle body, and basically at a loss.

The fuel pump is a remote possibility, but none of the other parts are going to cause the symptom you described. The first thing you have to do, assuming the engine will not restart right away, is when the problem is occurring, check for loss of spark. If that is missing, the best suspects are the TFI module on the side of the distributor, then the pick-up assembly inside the distributor.

I will look into it today. I do not think the fuel pump would be an issue. I just replaced it 2 days ago. Thanks for the input and I will go through the ignition side of things. Thanks

Craig

Well I replaced the tfi module just because I've tried everything else. The truck will start as it it has and seems to run and idle fine for about 5 to 10 minutes. Then the rpms drop from about 900 to around 400 and stalls out and it acts like this for the rest of the day and makes it hard to troubleshoot. The fuel pump is brand new, I cleaned the iacv, it has spark and what ltitle time I have to check for vacuum leaks I haven't found any. It just seems to be starving for air or fuel after running perfectly for those 5 to 10 minutes. This has become the most confusing automotive problem I've ever dealt with. Are there any other valves or fuel check points I should look into before I just go all out and pull this SOB?

So I have narrowed it down to the MAF/MAS. I unplugged it and the truck started right up and seemed to idle just fine. I let it run for about 20 minutes with no problems. I went down and bought a new MAS this is after I cleaned the first one, and plugged everything back in. The same problem occurred. I unplugged the new MAS and the truck ran fine. What would make the MAS malfunction in such a way that unplugging it would make the difference. The plug itself looks fine and I cleaned it with some electronics spray.

The most common suspect is a leak in the fresh air tube between the mass air flow sensor and throttle body. Any air that sneaks in without going through the sensor doesn't get measured, and no fuel is included in the fuel metering calculations. When you unplug the sensor, The Engine Computer detects that, and knows it can't rely on those readings. It defaults to a back-up strategy by which it injects approximate values based on other sensor readings and operating conditions. The MAP sensor becomes the main contributor.

Watch the MAF readings on a scanner, and see what happens when the stalling occurs.

Thank you very much. Its driveable now so I can get it to a friend with a scanner and go from there. Thanks again.

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken

Just recently I acquired my old pickup from my parents which sat around for about a year until I went to pick it up and drive it home when it died a few miles from my house. It would crank over with no start. I had the trucked towed and replaced the fuel filter the next day and the truck started right up but ran really rough like it was going to flood or had lack of air or fuel, but was running at a very high idle. I did a little investigating thinking it might be the fuel pump or inertia cut off switch. I checked the switch and I can hear the pump come on when I turn the key and they both seem to be good. I then got a little deeper, removed and cleaned the IAC sensor and MAF sensor with electrical cleaner. After that I tried starting the truck and it now turns over and starts for about 3 seconds and dies, but when it starts it starts it jumps to around 2400 rpms and shuts off. I replaced plugs, plug wires, coil, air filter, and changed the oil and still having the same issue. Starts and runs for 3 seconds @ around 2400 rpms and dies.....any ideas?

clean throttle plate on both sides as well as iac hole, check for a vacuum leak hoses,cracked soft etc. and check fuel pressure with a gauge....autoparts rent that

I will try both of those and see what happens. Thank you for the reply.

Engine Mechanical problem
1993 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

my 1993 ford ranger xlt, 4 cyl, 2WD ranger just died. When I try to restart, it doesnt even turn over. I checked the battery and it is fine.

alternator? or something else?

Ok this could be a couple of different things. It could be starter or starter relay or the neutral saftey switch. If you have a digital multi meter we can run a couple of tests to see what is going on. Let me know what you want to do.

1993 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 150000 miles

new clutch 8 mo. old...truck stalls out in 2nd or 3rd gear.
Now it won't start at all. When I try to start, the instrument panel lights up, I do hear the solenoid click but then nothing

Check and test the battery/alternator and connections if okay could be one of the following:

Starter, starter relay, clutch switch and ignition switch

Electrical problem
1993 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 230000 miles

Why does headlights come on dimly when pressing brake and why does headlights cause engine not to repond to gas pedal

Hi Boyce Smith,

Thank you for the donation.

Symptoms indicate a charging or ground circuit fault.

When charging is insufficient or the concerned circuit has insuffiicient ground conneections, it would affect the power supply to the PCM and that might cause no response from the throttle.

Get the charging system tested.

Electrical problem
1993 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles

This ford ranger just quit abruptly on the highway crusing at 55 mph. it has a 03 litter motor. This vehicle has always )for the last 2 years) been lazy when starting out with a newly started cold engine . backing off on the gas would sometimes help. after a minute or so it would run normally ..Then all of a sudden it just quit..I tested for spark and had none, so I changed the most logical components listed ,( ignition module/ no spark /also the coil pack,still no spark..It turns over fine .I also noticed a corroded wire a few months ago when I was troubleshooting the slugishness when cold problem .it was located under the black fuse and relay box mounted on the left(drivers side) splash pan under the hood . This wire was bare without any insulation at all except for a thin cellophane wrap...I did not follow this wire to far,because it goes into thse harness.so I just cut out the bad part and soldered it back together..I have no clue if this has anything to do with the no spark but I thought I would mention it..I m a retired body and fender man. and have done numerous mechanical jobs in past ,but I am not to familiar with electronic ignitions...I woulld appriciate your advice and help in finding this problem..Thank you and have a nice day........Bob

Bob as you know NO bare wire is GOOD wire! You must investigate this further, even if you need to remove the relay box! Remove negative battery cable before you begin, Power and grounds are the life blood of ECM's and PCM's!

Hi Merlin.. I checked and repaired the insulation on the bare wire. I tested it and it is a ground wire and is not shorted to any other wire that I can see ..What else do you have in mind......that would cause no ign. spark .............Bob

We need to see if any codes are stored in the PCM do it this way: Jump the two termnals shown together and turn key to "ON" and count the flashes... a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 11 or 111. Write them down and post here. First do this with the key on engine off, then again with it running.

I have a 93 Ranger 3.0 4WD standard trans with 130,000 miles on it that stalls after being driven for a while and will not restart for long peroids of time. A real pain whenever I take it out on the road. Wondering if this is a fuel or spark problem. We have already replaced the coil and replaced spark plugs and wires and still problem exists. Very frustraiting.

i want youi to try this when you shut off the car after it has run. turn the key on but not to start and leave it there for 5 seconds then turn off and repeat 3-5 times. does it start right back up? if so then you have a bad fuel pressure regulator or check valve!

could also be a bad fuel temp sensor or sending unit!

1993 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 246450 miles

I have the 3.0l ford ranger I have checked the ICM changed the fuel filter checked the coil for spark, the fuel pump can be heard when I turn the key on and pressure is there, and a tune up. When driving and coming to a stop it runs very rough and will then die and not restart. If you warm it and let it sit and idle it will start to run rough and if you step on the gas it wants to bog out and die if you gradually push the gas its fine till it eventually dies. Why only when its warmed up?

I do not know, donate a few dollars to get a pro involved. but i will say this, when you start a car and it is cold, the oxygen sensors tell the engine to run rich. as the vehicle warms, the fuel ratio is cut back. there are a lot of things to check for lack of power, and to me this is part of, or if not the issue. @ 246k miles, you have already gotten a lot out of this truck, but you can try SOME of the following to improve power (other than a rebuild) Engine lacks power... See one of the following: 1.) Incorrect ignition timing. 2) Fuel filter clogged and/of impurities in fuel 3) Faulty or incorrect gapped spark plugs. 4) Air filter dirty. 5) Spark timing control system not working properly. 6) Faulty ignition coil(s) 7) Brakes binding. 8) Auto Trans fluid not correct 9) faulty distributor cap or wires 10) EGR system not functioning properly. 11) Use of sub standard fuel. 12) Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures 13) Air vacuum leak at intake manifold or plenum

Engine Performance problem
1993 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 100,00 miles

What would cause my 1993 Ford Ranger to stall while I am in transit ? After I pulled over, I turned the key and the starter engaged , but the engine won't turn over. All this after I the blower motor on the heater went out. Do I have electrical problems, or is this just a coincidence ?

Did you check to see if you are getting fuel and spark to the engine? Also, does the blower motor work at any speed?

Engine Performance problem
1993 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 150000 miles

when i bought the ranger it had a very high idol,and would jump and jerk when driving.since then i have replaced the mass sensor,tps sensor and iac valve.since then the idol has dropped but is still erattic and it wants to stall when idoling.now when i stop i keep one foot on the gas and one on the brake to try to keep it going,but that doesn't always work.its been starting right back up after it stalls.i was going to change the egr valve but it doesnt have one.the injectors seem to all be working.when i had it hooked up to a diagnostics check it didnt throw any codes.any help is appreciated.

hi, and thank you for the donation. I would begin by checking the map sensor and then check fuel pressure, I suspect,weak or erratic fuel pressures, indicating a bad pump or fuel pressure regulator and or dirty fuel filter.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm