Engine will not start?

have your alternator checked because if your vechile is dying as soon as you let off the gas then it sounds like the alternator is not keeping charge also if your fuel pump is not working then jumping it would not start it because the engine would not be getting any fuel

Electrical problem
1995 Buick Lesabre 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic
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no power to the fuel pump and it does not have spark

do you have security light on or blinking
if so check the key and ignition cylinder and pass system
if not check crank shaft sensor
check fuses and relays

why won't the car start

If it cranks ok but won't start, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. You may also need to check for injector pulse.

my car is a 1995 buick lesabre, 76000 miles. first symptons were: the car needed to be jumped constantly, making a dragging sound when trying to start. the starter was replaced. While taking an out of town trip doing approx 75mls per hour, the panel lights came on and the car died. The engine was replaced with a rebuilt one. A day or two later the car still had a problem turning over, making that dragging noise, and it also felt like it would not accelerate. My mechanic replaced the starter again and also the ground wire. He claims that the he checed the alternator and it charged well. Well, again 1hr into a road trip at 75miles per hour the car died again, My mechanic claims that the engine was bad. Can you think of anything that would blow an engine. I think my mechanic is missing something. Could it be something electrical?

I had a similar (if not the same) problem with my '93 Park Avenue. I also replaced my starter, bought a new battery, etc... but the car kept dying while driving, or sometimes would just not start at all. The cause of my problems was very simple. I was not getting enough "juice" from the battery. I removed all corrosion on my battery cable points and made sure they were tightly screwed into the battery. You must also make sure the "teeth" on the cable points are in the right place for a good connection.

is it possible that you have more than one problem? what is your mechanics reason for determining that your engine is bad?
is it losing oil pressure or making noise?
is your battery ok?
there is also a major electrical connection at the firewall near the relay center. :wink:

Engine cranks up, then cuts off. it will not do a code check. replaced the crank and cam sensors. was hard to start, but finally did. it ran for about a week good. now it is back to the same thing. start and then cuts off. new code reader tool. it says it will not link up. has spark and fuel pressure.

Do you have a security indicator on or flashing when you try to start it?

security light staying on. new crank and cam sensors. checked wiring.wiring okay. cranks up then cuts off, over and over again.

Security light staying on.

If the security light does not go off after turning the key on and it is not flashing, that means you have a hard failure in the security system. You will need a professional level scan tool to be able to see any codes for the security system and that will be your starting point.

thank you for the answer.can i replace the key and ignition switch and what else is involved.

Why are you assuming the ignition switch is the problem? It needs to be diagnosed correctly before you go throwing parts at it.

do you know who sells the professional level scan tool to read these codes.

Most tool distributors sell them in various brands but the cost range is $4,000 to $20,000

Pump does not run. had an over the dirt bank and bounced a couple of time now no fuel. does this have a impact shut off sensor and if so where? I cannot see one by the center of dash on floor like usual.

Good afternoon,

No, the only car with an inertia switch is Ford products.

Did you look under the car at the tank and check for damage? You may have damaged the tank where the fuel pump sits.

Can you check the connector for power to the fuel pump?

Check the grey wire in the connector at the tank.

Roy

No damage to tank wires and hoses all good. can't check connector right now need to get car up in air at my age I can no longer crawl under it.

Got it. Check it when you can and get back to us.

Roy

Darn online parts computer lie all the time. it said switch available for Buick and also sold me cabin filter for 2002 Toyota that does not have.

Do not use internet for anything for a car. They are usually wrong.

Roy

I have a 6 hour round trip drive to closet town with a parts store so i buy most of my parts on line from Napa, Rock Auto or AutoZone and have them shipped we live way out in Nevada outback, UPS only comes out this way 2 times a week.

Okay, I get it.

Rock auto is the one I trust the most. I have dealt with them for years with no issues.

What were the results of the checks for the wiring? I would not order anything until you know the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy

has power. need to drop tank but can't get bolts that hold tank strap out. they turn on the top and can't get to them to hold. do i need to cut hole in trunk or cut strap and replace when i get tank out?

I would cut the straps and deal with the bolts when you have the tank down. Then you can access the top or make access to the top easier.

Roy

looked in to that, but the front of the strap is hooked into the body and can't see any to replace it ,so if i cut them not sure how to reinstall the tank, but i might have to and live with it some way to hold it up maybe weld strap back.

Once the tank is down, you could cut access into the body to get to the nut. Then you cut the bolt and remove it. Then install a new bolt from the top-down and the nut will be on the strap side.

Roy

but then you can't get to it to install the tank because it will just turn instead of tighten up. need to install some kind of lock on top to keep from turning, that is the problem. no if i could hold the top i could get it loose.

If you use a long enough bolt and use a lock washer and nut, you can start the nut and hold the stud with a pair of vice grips from turning while you tighten the nut.

I have done this dozen of times.

Roy

Okay, i will see if i can find new straps before i cut the old ones.

Okay.

Keep me updated.

Roy

got it out cut the bolt with die grinder replaced it with new bolt and tee bar on top so it can't turn replaced pump and assembly and new hoses. looks like it will work. now got fuel pressure.

I have a 1995 Buick LeSabre with a 3800 fuel injection engine. The other day my fiancee put some gas in my car from another auto mobile. It ran fine, to me, for about one and a half days after wards.Then I went to work and it drove fine until I went home for lunch. I made it about a half a block and the car stalled out on me. It will spin but it will not fire over. What could it be? :oops:

Usually, if it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. Also, check for fuel injector pulse, engine cranking. If only one issue then we track the circuit. If more than one issue, that would be good to know.

I realize this is an old post. In the future, hope you don't have any vehicle issues, but, if you do, keep the site in mind. They are always working to improve the site and it's free to ask a question.

Have a good day.

Good deal.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Roy

1995 Buick Lesabre 6 cyl

I was pulling onto the highway from an exit and as i tried to accelerate, all of the sudden the car started revving as if it was speeding up but it wasn't going any faster then it started slowing down and everytime i tried to hit the gas and accelerate it would just rev and not go anywhere. So I pulled over and checked my transmission fluid in neutral while it was running and it was a little low so I added some more then tried again. It ran normal until I reached about 25 then started doing it again. I shifted to neutral til I reached 35 and then shifted back to drive (this is what someone helping me said to do) but then it gave a jolt as if shifting gears and then the engine died. Now when I try to start it, it tries to start, it actually managed to for a second but it wont get started. We were thinking it was the transmission or ignition coils. Any ideas?

At first it sounded like the transmission, but that wouldn't cause the engine to die. Has the check engine light come on?