Engine will not run

Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Chevy Truck V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 226000 miles

Have been trying to diagnose my truck with a no start condition. on the way home from work, it felt as if it was running out of gas so I stopped and filled up. it ran good until about a 1/4 mile from the house and starting running out of gas again. the following morning it wouldn't start. I saw no fuel at the injectors. I checked my fuel pressure at the filter and had none. I tryed to "hot wire" the pump with no action. So I pulled the tank out and pulled the sending out with the pump. when I hook up the pump now, it works. I'm stumped. I'm going to replace the pump since it is out but what else can I look for? I checked the fuel pump relay and it works. any help is appreciated.

The only thing I can say is there was either corrosion in the connector or a bad ground. When you replace the pump, make sure the electrical connection is clean and in good condition, and place some electrical grease in it to help with the connection.

133,000 miles, running fine when parked X-mas day, no start on New years day. It has spark, I checked for pulse with timing light in each plug wire. Turns over normal, one time it even sort of started (like running backwards) when I let the key go from ignition #2 (starter) (slow chugging, lots of smoke from air cleaner box, for about 10-15 seconds) There is a consistant squirt at the schrader valve in the fuel rail each time I cycle the key and the fuel pump runs. There were no engine trouble codes displayed on the dash before this happened. It doesn`t seem like the timing chain by the way it turns over. I`m lost....

does it have injector pulse ?

Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Chevy Truck V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 165000 miles

Chevy 1500 truck will start one time but the second I try to put in drive or key the truck off the next subsequent start will fail. If I wait it out for an hour or so it will start but again the second I turn it off it will not start back up right away unless I spray starting fluid. The problem started while I was driving and the engine just cut off and once I start using starter fluid I can keep the engine running if I idle her high otherwise it will fail. I thought maybe water in the tank so I added product called heat to remove any water. I also replaced the fuel filter andmy next thought was ignition module but after reading some posts im not sure how to procedd. Any help be appreciated. Thanks

If the engine runs on starting fluid only, it's not getting gas. Have you checked the fuel pump pressure? It sounds like that may be the problem.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Joe thanks for the reply It turned out to be the ignition control module located in the distributor. I guess it is responseable for using the signal off a magnetic plate or some sensor to open and close a ground circuit to the ignition coil used to provide spark to plugs and if the control module is defective like over heats, then its electrical propertied are effected and that process will no longer happen causing the engine to cut out. Thats how I interprted it. Was real easy to get to within the distributor and I took it up to auto zone who where it failed on their tester.Glad I did this myself as I have heard stories on some shops replacing a cheap part that fixes the issue and replacing a working part that is way more expensive and then telling the customer it was the working part that was bad. This for me was a $40 part and they could have told me it was my fuel pump and just replaced the module and I would not have known any better.

I'm glad you got it taken care of. And I agree, people have lost their values and have very little respect for others. Interesting that it was the module. I wouldn't have guessed that because when they go bad, there is usually no spark which means it wouldn't have started with starting fluid either. Regardless, have a great Christmas, and if you have questions in the future, I'll be here.

Joe

My 94 Chevy Dulley, 454 (gas) won't start. It's getting gas because you can smell it, she backfired too! It's acting like it wants to start but seems its not getting the proper spark could it be the distributed cap or rotter, or the ignition control module?

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

Remove a spark plug and check to see if you are getting a good hot blue snapping spark. Also, check fuel pump pressure and the pressure regulator. The regulator may be allowing too much fuel pressure or not enough to start. Directions for both checks are on our homepage under the DIY section. If you have additional questions, let me know.

Joe

Lately I have been having issues going into reverse from being parked for a while until it warms up. I was thinking of draining the fluid and replacing the filter and gasket. This morning I went to start my truck and it revved a little bit then started making this hum sound. it took a while, but got it going by turning it off and trying several times. sometimes it revs for a few secs sometimes it just starts humming. Now I just assumed I needed a new starter so tomorrow I am thinking of replacing it. While driving this afternoon I had this sickening smell coming into my cab. When I got home, I let it cool and went shopping. Tonight I came home and decided to just check my fluid level (which i admit I should have done sooner) and it is so low it is not on the dipstick. now I ask. I know that the fluid does not run the starter, but can the fact that it being that low cause the humming sound? I hate to replace the starter if its not the issue.

fill with fluid it may solve your problem but keep an eye on it as it may be leaking someplace.

Ok. Hope this helps lol. I have a Chevy 1500 pickup. Has the 4.3 motor in it. I have had it almost a year and has been a great truck. It starts first time, every time.

Well the last handful of days it has been REALLY RAINY out. I am only bringing this up because I know if you have faulty wires, and there is moisture in the air, it will have a hard time to start.

So a few days ago for the first time ever it is really hard to start. Like I said with the rain I assumed this week I would just replace the plugs/wire and cap and rotor. After a minute of trying I got it going. It took having to pump the gas as I heard the truck try to start. (I never pump the gas before that, only when the truck is sounding like it is turning over.) I turned it off immediately and tried starting it again. Started right away. So I went to work. About 5 hours later try to start it again and once again takes a minute to start. This has happened every day for the last few days.

So this morning I try to start it and it takes forever to start. Right before it starts it backfired through the exhaust. I swear it sounded like someone shot a gun behind me. I stopped trying and gave it a minute. at that point when I tried again, it started.

My question is would the backfire be the plug wires? It is not throwing and codes. I realize a bad pump could not hold pressure, but this has only started with the bad weather. Any ideas would be great, Being tight on money I do not want to just go out and replace plugs, wires and a cap and rotor if it could be something else.. Thanks

start with fuel pressure test.

Roy

Electrical problem
1994 Chevy Truck 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 75000 miles
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engine runs till it gets warmed up then shuts off, at this point there is no power at the fuel relay and there is no spark. after you let it sit or cool down it will start and run 2-3 minutes then shut off again engine will always turn over

check the crank position sensor.

1994 Chevy Truck 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

My truck will start and run fine until I turn the engine off . Then will not restart. It has enough juice in the battery but doesnt want to turn over.

Please help!!!

Have you checked the voltage during cranking. A voltage drop caused by the starter would be worse after the vehicle heats up that may be why it is hard to start after it heats up or after the first start.

I have a 1994 GMC C3500 with a 454.It seem to run fine while driving.I stopped at a store and came out and it would not start.It will crank over but will not start.It smells like it is flooding.I can see gas coming out of the connection between the exhaust manifold and the tailpipe.If I let it set for several hours it will start again and runs fine until I shut it off again.This has been happening for two days.Before that it has always started right away.Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,Jeff

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs-start here and get back with the readings

Engine Performance problem
1994 Chevy Truck 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 83237 miles

my truck wont stay idle for a long time unless ia give it gas. why is it not idleing? and it wont crank on the first start. it a chevy 1994 c1500. help!!

Hi there,

Hi there do these checks thoroughly and see how you get on, re post if you still have a problem. mark (mhpautos)

************i have a v6 engine. and it shuts off when i take my foot off the gas and put it into drive. is it by anychance the distributor or spark plugs or is the fuel pump just weak? im just askin because i dont want to waste my money. if u think its sometin else then just reply back please!

Hi there,

I would be thinking more along the lines of the idle control motor, but i would not hurt to check fuel flow & pressure, if the plugs and leads are old check the plug gaps or replace them and test the leads for high resistance with a multi meter, but i would do the checks first posted if you have not bone so.

mark (mhpautos)

[quote:1868bb9631="mhpautos"]Hi there,

I would be thinking more along the lines of the idle control motor, but i would not hurt to check fuel flow & pressure, if the plugs and leads are old check the plug gaps or replace them and test the leads for high resistance with a multi meter, but i would do the checks first posted if you have not bone so.

mark (mhpautos)[/quote:1868bb9631]

******thanx i will try that, oh and thanx for helping me, i would donate but i dont have a card, how do u vote? and if i did vote then it would be a 5 out of 5 cuz at least ue helpin thanx so much for ur time. i'll check back wit u if it works

Hi there,

If you wish to give feedback, just click on the blue link that says give feedback on my post.

mark (mhpautos)

Electrical problem
1994 Chevy Truck V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 90000 miles

Hello,
I have a Chev 1500 pickup with a recently replaced engine (good junk yard engine). Throttle body injection.
The engine fires and tries to start, but quits immediately.
This engine did run nicely for about 50 miles then died!

I don't know if the problem is electrical or gas. Engine won't keep running (acts same) when gas is poured in engine. I believe problem is electrical-all sensors etc. were replaced.

I would like to test fuel pressure-can you tell me how before I try?

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Go here and checkout our video.

ya that was real helpful huh? I like how they always tell you to "start the vehicle and let it idle" while you're trying to diag a crank/no start... I have an adapter somewhere that you put in place of the filter on chevys (Lisle or OTC?)- then you attach guage to that - if memory serves me this is the easiest.

Test ignition mod and coil: Here's how. Ignition System 1. Disconnect tachometer wire at distributor tachometer terminal (if equipped). A shorted tachometer or tachometer circuit prevents vehicle from starting. Ensure TP sensor and coolant sensor codes are not present and sensors are not out of calibration. 2. Check for battery voltage at "+" terminal of ignition coil with ignition on. See Fig. 1 - Fig. 4 . Repair as necessary. 3. Connect Spark Tester (ST-125) to end of one plug wire. Crank engine. If spark is present, check fuel delivery. 4. If spark does not occur, disconnect 4-wire EST connector at distributor and check for spark at ignition coil tower using Spark Tester (ST-125). If spark now occurs, check cap and rotor for damage or wear. Check for open in coil wires. 5. If spark does not occur, reconnect EST connector. Leave spark tester connected to coil tower for remainder of test. Disconnect ignition coil Black 2-wire connector, and check voltage on "C" and "+" terminals with ignition on. 6. If voltage on both terminals is 10 volts or greater, go to next step. If voltage on both terminals is less than 10 volts, repair wire from "+" terminal on module to "B" terminal on coil Black 2-wire connector. If voltage is less than 10 volts on "C" terminal only, check for open or short to ground in circuit from "C" terminal of ignition module to ignition coil. If circuit is okay, problem is faulty coil or coil connections. 7. Connect voltmeter between ground and tachometer terminal at coil with ignition on. Tachometer terminal may be taped back against harness. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, go to step 9). 8. If voltage is 1-10 volts, replace ignition module and check for spark at coil tower using Spark Tester (ST-125). If voltage is less than one volt, repair open in tachometer lead or tachometer connector. After repairs, recheck voltage at tachometer terminal. 9. Connect test light between ground and tachometer terminal. Crank engine. If test light remains on (steady), go to next step. If test light flashes, replace ignition coil with a known-good unit and recheck for spark. If spark does not occur, reinstall original ignition coil and replace ignition module. 10. Remove distributor cap. Unplug ignition module pick-up coil connector. Connect voltmeter between ground and tachometer terminal. Turn ignition on. Using jumper wires, connect positive end of a known-good 1.5-volt battery to terminal "P" of module. Observe voltmeter at tachometer terminal as negative end of test battery is momentarily grounded to distributor housing. 11. If voltage at tachometer terminal does not drop, check ignition module ground. Check for open in wires from ignition coil to module. If all is okay, replace ignition module. 12. If voltage at tachometer terminal drops, check for spark at spark tester as jumper is removed from terminal "P". If spark does not occur, go to next step. If spark occurs, check pick-up coil connections. Check for 500-1500 ohms resistance at pick-up coil leads. Ensure leads are not shorted to ground. Repair as necessary. 13. Test ignition module with module tester. If module tests okay, check ignition coil wire. If module tester is not available, replace ignition coil, and touch terminal "P" again. If spark occurs, system is okay. If spark does not occur, reinstall original ignition coil, and check coil wire from distributor cap. If no problem is found, replace ignition module. Page 1 of 1 BASIC TESTING - GASOLINE -1994 Chevrolet Pickup K1500 3/6/2009

Electrical problem
1994 Chevy Truck V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 256000 miles

when i turn the ignition on my truck to start the motor, nothing happens. The battery is good. it starts once in a while and then when i shut of the motor, it will not start again. the gages work but it seams like no electricty is getting the the starter. you can hear the fuel pump working. could it be the ignition control module?

Welcome to the forum. I'd have to make sure the battery has a full charge and the positive and negative connections are good. If the starter won't crank, check the starter circuit, the purple wire at the starter solenoid should be hot with the key in the start position. Some of the national brand autostores will check the starter itself, you have to take it off and take it to them. I don't know if their test would catch an intermittent?

thank you for the reply. I did check the battery and it is good. I will check the starter to see if i am getting 12 volts with the volt meter.

have replaced injector and housing fuel pump and filter yet it still will not start it acts like it wants to but noting getting fuel up to the injector for sure and i know it has spark. I can spray fuel into the intake and it will start right up,but just run for seconds till the fuel i sprayed in is gone. what else could it be since almost the entire fuel system has been replaced from tank to the injector? I'm at my wits end and have no real clue.

So can not see fuel spray fr4om injector? if yes suspect ignition module inside Dist at fault if ECM does not receive ESC signal will not fire injector

I went to go to the store the other day and started my blazer. It ran for a couple seconds then shut off after some rpm fluctuations. Now, it won't start again. I checked all of the electrical connections, but no fuses etc...It turns over, just won't run. It was running fine not even 3 hrs. before that.

You may want to have check your ignition module and do a fuel pressure test.

hey, i appreciate the suggestions. After ensuring the fuel pump worked and the cpi had pressure, i figured it must have been electrical. I looked at the fuses, no problem, then pulled the distributor cap and saw the rotor tab was rusted. i scraped off all the rust and it fired right up. Runs great now! Thanks!