Engine will not run

The first thing we have to find out is what is causing it, fuel or spark. The easiest thing to do is see if it will start using starting fluid. If it does for a couple seconds, then it is fuel related. If it does not, then there is no spark to the plugs. Try that first. Also, let me know if you have checked for trouble codes?

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Cheers,

will not run on starting fluid, the code is flash pause flash flash, then long pause and repeat flash pause flash flash..thinking it must be something with the spark.

Yep that is what it sounds like. The code it is trying to tell you is 12 which means it cant find anything wrong which leads us to the ignition coil, module and pick up. Here is a guide to ehlp you get these components changed out I recommend AC Delco from Amazon.

Here are some diagrams that shows how to remove the distributor, ignition pickup and coil assemblies. (below)

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Chevy Truck V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 165000 miles

Here goes,
Turns over but will not start,
1. Fuel pump works- removed filter temporarily blows gas a plenty (hoping it would catch fire)
2. Replaced rotor, cap, coil, and eventually distributor. Could get to small coil below firing points.
Checked all fuses, swapped 30amp ones after checking with meter.

Stumped from here

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

KISS, after replacing the distributor, I neglected to get both the plugs back on the rear of the disto. I had correctly identified the small coil pick up on the bottom of the timing inductors.

OH well. looking for the timing specs now

For what liter/CID engne ?

5.7 350
seems the inductive pickup went south, there was iron dust all in the bottom of the distributor

94 6.5 (f) turbo diesel does cracked injector line no fuel replaced PMD it use to stall out kept old both no start no high pressure fuel the lift pump is flowing cracked a low pressure line and you can hear the pump kick on and fuel flows had a bad wire on the crankshaft sensor replaced that I can feel the shutoff solenoid click could I have gotten a faulty pmd and that fried my injection pump can I buy parts for the injection pump

Injection pumps are extremely sensitive items, they must be set up for flow rates and delivery pressures using very specialized calibrating equipment, not to mention the special tooling required, this really should be left to the specialists, with incorrect delivery you can destroy the engine.

I changed the ECM and it ran for about 30 minutes and then shut back down. Now i can't get it to start.

I meant it is NOT getting gas

Why did you change the ecm? Use a gage and check fuel pressure. If your tbi, you have to tie into the supply line. Sometimes it is easier to tie in at the fuel filter, if the engine compartment is really cluttered. Just make sure no pressure on the system, before you take anything loose. Any applicable trouble codes?

truck was not getting gas or firing , changed ECM , ran for about 30 min. then shut back down. It does have 12 volts going to coil

no codes

Okay, first off, the battery went dead, I did try to jump start it with my other car, and it would not start, so I took the battery to Advance for a test and they told me the battery was bad, so I purchased a new one. When I tried starting it after i hooked the new battery up, all I hear is a click when I turn the key (it is not coming from the starter, it is coming from the ignition switch inside the truck).. What I want to know, is there a relay switch or fuse somewhere in there that could have blown when i tried jump starting it ? I can't locate a fuse box under the hood.. I am pretty sure the battery is properly connected because the headlights light up and everything else works except the starter (I brushed the terminal wires clean several times).. Any help would be appreciated...

1994 Chevrolet S10
4.3L Vortec Engine
120,000 Miles

The one that's clicking might be a starter relay- your problem could be the solenoid or the starter itself

To confirm a starter control circuit problem-remote start it at the starter. when it kicks over with the remote starter switch this is the point where you troubleshoot.

What is litre size of engine? Engine cranking, do you have spark at the plugs.

You can take spark plug wire loose, use spark tester in boot, ground metal part of tester to metal part of engine, engine cranking watch for spark. Is there spark?

If something is causing the ecm to go bad, you need to fix that issue, first.

Where do I look for that? I never had problems like this before, I am totally in the dark on this one.

With engine cranking, it's the ignition module that controls spark. Do you have TBI fuel injection? If the computer doesn't see an rpm signal, no injector pulse. The rpm signal comes from the pickup coil to the ignition module to computer for distributor ignition.

[quote:3dcda1a62b="Justin087"]Where do I look for that? I never had problems like this before, I am totally in the dark on this one.[/quote:3dcda1a62b]

Find the starter be careful here-get a jumper wire find the battery terminal and a little terminal with a purple wire jump these two together, did the starter kick over?

it was a fault in the ignition module and a broke wire on the pick-up coil. THANKS FOR THE INFO.

Okay, what I am going to end up doing is taking the starter in to have it tested just in case that is the problem, if NOT, I dont know what im gonna do next, other than be baffled... I can see the 2 kitty cornered bolts underneith the truck, How do I remove the starter? My guess is remove the 2 bolts, it will fall out, then disconnect the wires, but if anyone can confirm this or tell me how to correctly do it, I'de appreciate it... from other websites descriptions it only takes about 15 mins to remove it so I would be better off taking it out, and to advance for a test than i would poking around trying to figure out what else it could be...

Glad you got it going your way.

The weird thing like i said before, I dont hear ANY noise coming from the starter itself, only a click where the ignition key is from inside the truck.. it COULD be making a noise that im just not hearing but i hear nothing, and i never had problems with it so is that normal for a starter/solenoid? to hear no noise at all? I did the lights thing turned on the lights when i turn the key, it dosent even dim them, they stay on bright as can be so the connections are good. Like I said I will probably just remove the starter/solenoid (one unit) and take it in for testing but if anyone knows that its not thet let me know, and also let me know how to remove it, thanks in advance!

I changed the PMD. And batteries. It only cranks. Sprayed starting fluid it tried but nothing. got fuel out filter.

Are you sure the lift pump is working? What pressure are you getting out of the pump? Have you tried unplugging the optical sensor on the injector pump and see if it starts, that can fail and cause a no start. Are you getting fuel at the injectors? Loosen a couple injector lines and watch them as someone else cranks the engine. You should get a good squirt out if there is fuel at the injection pump.

If all else fails there is a very long diagnostic process over at www.accuratediesel.com/nostart.html that might help.

94 chevy 5.7 k1500 4x4.Just clicks when trying to start. I had the same problem a few days ago. My mechanic checked voltage at starter, it was good. Replaced starter. It worked fine for about 4 days, then the same problem. Everything else seems fine(lights,radio.heater and fan) the only exception is the winshield wipers. When I try to start the wipers want to go even though they are turned off. Do I have a sterter or electrical problem?

Check the voltage at the trigger wire on the starter, when it is acting up. Any after-market alarm? The wiper is the "wiper control module" local dealer will have a pallet of them, inexpensive and easy fix.

replaced wiper control module already. it worked fine for afew days. now it does the same thing when I try to start suburban. I do have a remote start that I've had for 2 years with no problem. no alarms

by-pass the remote system

just put in a 383 stroker with 750 edlebrock carb, switched to hei dist.,also wired purple/white wire from original dist. to tach. side of hei dist.,and hooked up tps on carb, o2 sensors are still hooked up, truck has duals with no cats, the only other sensors are the two temp. sensors. truck starts fine and runs good for about 10-15 mins. then acts like the key was turned off and will not start for 10-15 mins. after it starts will ony run about 5 mins and stops again

when its not starting im gessing your missing spark . if so see if the tac term on the dist cap end next to the power wire in flashing a grounded test light and see if you have 12 volts to the pos term in the cap

yes missing spark have to get back to you on the test light, raining like cats and dogs now

could temp sensor or o2 sensor cause this?

Ok

Engine has been running rough, now it won't start at all. It turns over, but sputters and dies.

How long since a tune-up? Any applicable mil codes? Use a gage and check fuel pressure.

i did a engine swope from a 305 to a 350 now it wont start by the ignition it just clicks like the battery is dead, i replaced the battery, starter and coil with no succuss. can you please help me get this solved

check the voltage and the starter power wire and seloniod while cranking