Vehicle stalls after driving fifteen to twenty minutes?

Hey merlin, I don't have any extra cash till this coming wednesday. What I am trying out is resetting the ECU by disconnecting the negative terminal. I was thinking this might be a good idea since I had unplugged a couple of things while the engine was running, what I was wondering though is when I turn it back on should I have the TPS and the TCC plugged in or leave them unplugged when I restart the computer. Let me know what you think, I will test the TPS probably this wednesday when I get paid.
Thanks,
Art

Plug ALL sensors back in and see if any codes reset.

Hey merlin you're not going to believe this one. So I unplugged the battery left it overnight, this morning plugged everything back in and restarted the car. I ran it up to like thirty miles per hour and what it sounded like to me is something in the transmission unjammed, I am hoping this was the TCC because I drove the car up to around 45mph where it normally engages and I am now having no transmission problems. On top of that the car is running fine in general, TPS seems fine, the idle is a little low but the car is not stalling out. I ran fault codes and also can't believe this but all I got was 1 2 1 2 1 2 and thats it. Let me know what this means, but to me this is a miracle.
Thanks,
Art

Okay I did have the engine stall out on me again. Transmission still seems like it may have a problem. I postulated that it may be the VSS but I'm not sure yet. I re ran the codes again because I found out the codes I was seeing were just out of power codes. Did re run it I got 12 12 12 27 27 27 and thats it. Not sure at this point, might as well keep at it. Thanks,
Art

CODE 27 OR 28, GEAR SWITCH CKTS, W/3T40 TRANSAXLE Gear switches are located inside transaxle. Switches are normally closed. As vehicle speed increases, hydraulic pressure applies specific gear clutches and gear switch opens. ECM uses gear switches input signals in calculations to determine control fuel delivery and TCC operation. Code 27 will set if mid gear 2nd switch indicates ground or closed switch for 12 seconds when vehicle is in 3rd gear or if mid gear 2nd switch circuit indicates an open when engine is first started. Code 28 will set if high gear 3rd switch circuit indicates ground or closed switch for 10 seconds when vehicle is in 3rd gear or if high gear 3rd circuit indicates an open when engine is first started. 1. A digital volt-ohmmeter must be used in this test. A test light will not work due to low voltage supplied by ECM. 2. Checks if circuit is grounded through switch. 3. Checks for a good, properly operating switch and checks circuit within transaxle for an improper ground. DIAGNOSTIC AIDS Check for poor connections at ECM pins. Inspect harness for incorrect routing (too close to high voltage wiring) and chafing. Monitor voltage of each terminal while moving related harness connectors. If failure is induced, voltage reading will change. NOTE: Test numbers refer to numbers on diagnostic chart. Page 1 of 1 5/11/2010 ...

Where under the hood is the ground for gear switch circuit.

Check PVM ground, black and white wire. here's the chart fpr code 27 troubleshooting.

Hey merlin, good news I think, I was out just looking around on the car, I checked the rear of the car which I had really bad struts on, anyways the fuel line was completely torn apart, I put tape on the fuel line and suddenly had white smoke burning off of the engine, it faded off and now the car idles fine. My only concern is the transmission, I'm worried to drive the car around and I am wondering if a severed fuel line "probably for a very long time" could effect the transmission shifting. Let me know what you think.
THanks,
Art

Yeah merlin, the TCC is still locking up. Idle is back to normal though, is there anyway that leaving the TCC unplugged could effect the engine running other than lost gas mileage.
Thanks
Art

Probably not on your year, newer one yes..

Hey merlin I think I found another problem, my coolant fan is just turning off and on. I found my coolant temp. sensor, and it looks like its missing a wire, correct me if I'm wrong but I think its supposed to have two wires coming out of it, and one of them is missing. Anyway my temp gauge is jumpy and I think the cooling fan is throwing off the whole engine, let me know what you think, it might be a sabotage.
Art

Temp indicator has one wire, dark green, the coolant temp sensor has two, black and yellow, this is the sensor that would control the fans. Both the sending unit and the coolant temp sensor are next to each other under the alternator.

Okay merlin I'm not going to get excited yet, but I replaced the coolant temperature sensor which was 100 percent for sure bad. The car drove around awhile just fine, ran into one stall but it started back up and drove around with a few diminishing kicks in the acceleration but they went away, so far the car is running fine, I'm going to try and take it out on the main road real slow. Question though, could a bad temp sensor effect my TCC or no, just thought I would check cause if it can I will try plugging it back in if not I will leave it. But 100percent for sure the coolant sensor was broken.
Thanks,
Art

Hey Merlin,
I just drove my car for awhile to check how everythings going, everything went fine until about 20 minutes into it the TCC wasnt acting up like it used to but almost like it was trying to unstick or something. Just a loud grinding noise but instead of it just stalling when I came to a stop it would let me stop and then just do it a little bit later. Don't know what I should do about that, no stalling though and the car is running fine just that one issue, wondering if I should unplug it or drive through it see if it straightens out.
Thanks
Art

Okay merlin this is a question I have. Last night I had a TCC grinding problem, so last night I reset the car just to see what it would do since I replaced the sensor. It stalled a couple of times and it almost sounded like the ignition was lining up with idle, I don't know if the Torque converter when it jams up can cause problems when you try to restart the car, Im thinking that maybe it was still locked slightly. Anyways its running idle fine now, and I am wondering if I should drive with TCC plugged in to see if the reset did anything, or just assume its bad and unplug it and drive. Not sure what to do, but I'm starting to get tired of going back and forth with this car but I think im getting close.
Thanks
Art

Unless you change the tcc solenoid, you have no choice...

Hey merlin,
Let me know if you're starting to get annoyed, this problem I feel like I am going backwards again. Ok so I unplugged the TCC car runs fine, now the car is still stalling once in a while at idle, and the vibration in the engine is really thick. So I unplugged the TPS, car idles so cleanly now, and it sounds so much better, I really dont have enough spare cash to go get the 44 dollar replacement at autozone, now I know we went over this before, but I just wanted to see, is it okay for me to drive without TCC and TPS, I really want to avoid stalling in the middle of the street.
Thanks,
Art

Not OK to drive without the TPS. ECM wont know how much fuel/air to supply by adjusting injector width.

Have you tried the Idle relearn procedure yet? When you disconnect the battery, idle relearn needs to be done. I'll email it to you.

Hey merlin I'm trying the relearn right now. Are you sure I can't drive with TPS plugged in because I drove it to 711 no problems at all, no hesitation nothing, I havent been able to drive it that far for awhile. Im just saying worst case scenario would it run. I'll let you know how the relearn goes.
Art

Okay Merlin I did the relearn it's idling okay no stalling yet,but when I did have tps unplugged it was idling very clean. I dunno I will leave tcc unplugged and see how it runs.
Thanks so much for your huge help
art

Okay, I just got back from a drive, it seems that relearning the engine helped, what is strange is that I'm not having any TCC lockup right now, I dont know why that would just go away, I read somewhere that the coolant temperature sensor plays a role in keeping the TCC in tune with the engine, I don't know I'm going to drive it around tonight and see what happens. I'll let you know.
Thanks,
Art

Have you checked your email? I sent info on testing the sensors to you...

Okay Merlin now that the cars working of course there is a starter problem. Basically I am trying to start the car in the morning and it will just go and go without turning over. Then I walk away for 5 to 10 minutes and it starts right up. After that first start it will stall once. Then I restart it and it is fine. Lemme kno.
Art

I think all sensors are good. After relearn no bad stalling, sandpapered all ground connections and ignition seems fine. Tcc is obviously destroyed, but with unplugging it as of right now my car is on the road.

Been a long hard slog! Cross fingers!

In the morning my car wont turn over at first, Ill turn the ignition and it will crank but not turn over. I will leave for about 10 minutes and then the car will start, I have no idea what this means but it happens every morning.
Art

Is there and ingnition relearn for this model maybe.
Art

Yeah after I asked you that starter question, I got under the car and attached to the starter is a wire that is the same look as a ground wire, anyway it was frayed and a little loose, so I sandpapered it and put it on real good, car started up, I'm going to wait till tomorrow morning though to make an official call on that.

Hey Merlin I think my last problem is the neutral safety switch. Is there a way to reset it, I think I really messed it up from all my transmission mishaps. Lemme kno

I'll get back to you later today, I dont have time to look it up now, go to real job now!

Further testing info for the TCC, it's a common part failure and the solenoid is almost always the problem, here's some testing you can do. CHECKING VOLTAGE TO TERMINAL "A" AT TRANSMISSION USING ALDL Connect one end of test light to terminal "A" at ALDL. See Fig. 2 . Connect other end to terminal "F" at ALDL. Turn ignition on. Test light should light. Some transmissions must be in 3rd gear before test light will light. If test light does not light, see CHECKING VOLTAGE TO TERMINAL "A" AT TRANSMISSION. If test light lights, 12 volts are present at terminal "A" at transmission. See CHECKING FOR GROUND AT TERMINAL "D" AT TRANSMISSION USING ALDL. CHECKING VOLTAGE TO TERMINAL "A" AT TRANSMISSION 1. Check for 12 volts to terminal "A" at transmission. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . Raise and support vehicle. Ground test light. Unplug connector at transmission case and install tip of test light into terminal "A". DO NOT depress brake pedal. On computer-controlled vehicles, turn ignition on. Test light should light. 2. On all other vehicles, start engine and run to normal operating temperature. Raise engine speed to 1500 RPM. Test light should light. If test light lights, see CHECKING FOR GROUND AT TERMINAL "D" AT TRANSMISSION. If test light does not light, ensure fuse marked "gauges" is okay (most models). CHECKING FOR GROUND AT TERMINAL "D" AT TRANS. USING ALDL 1. Before performing this test, CHECKING VOLTAGE TO TERMINAL "A" OF TRANSMISSION USING ALDL test must pass. Otherwise, see CHECKING FOR GROUND AT TERMINAL "D" AT TRANSMISSION. Test light should be connected between terminals "A" and "F" at ALDL connector. See Fig. 2 With engine at normal operating temperature, road test vehicle. When road test is started, test light should light. 2. If brake pedal is applied, test light will not light. Watch test light to see if test light goes out during road test. If test light goes out, terminal "D" is grounded at transmission. See GROUNDING "D" WIRE AT TRANSMISSION USING ALDL . If test light does not go out, a computer system problem exists. See CHECKING SELF-DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM. CHECKING FOR GROUND AT TERMINAL "D" AT TRANSMISSION 1. Check for ground at terminal "D" at transmission. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . On non- computer controlled vehicles, see COOLER LINE PRESSURE TEST. On all other vehicles, raise and support vehicle (if necessary). Disconnect transmission electrical connector and connect test light ground wire to terminal "A" of transmission connector. Install tip of test light into terminal "D" of transmission connector. 2. Start engine and run to normal operating temperature. Place gear selector in Drive (O.D. on 4 speed transmissions). Accelerate slowly to 60 MPH. Test light should light. If test light does not light, computer system problem exists. Shave insulation off of wire "D", or pierce wire near transmission connector. 3. Connect one end of jumper wire to wire "D" at shaved or pierced area. Ground other end of jumper wire. With vehicle on lift, road test for lock-up. If unsure lock-up occurred, hold steady speed of 60 MPH and slightly touch and release brake pedal. Disengagement and re- engagement should be felt. Seal bare wire connection with silicon after test is complete (if necessary). Follow this to adjust both the brake switch at the pedal and the neutral saftey switch. FWD Models 1. There are 2 different neutral safety switches used on FWD models. See Fig. 12 . To adjust switch, place gear selector lever in the "N" position. 2. Ensure shift cable is adjusted correctly and transaxle lever is in Neutral position. Loosen switch attaching screws. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align adjustment hole with carrier tang hole. 3. Insert a 3/32" (2.4 mm) wire gauge about 5/8" into switch holes. Tighten attaching screws. Remove wire gauge. New switches may have plastic pin installed in hole. Plastic pin is designed to shear off during shift lever operation. Fig. 12: Adjusting Neutral Safety Switches (FWD) Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP. TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH BRAKE SWITCH The torque converter clutch brake switch must be adjusted to prevent vehicle stalling at idle due to the clutch remaining applied. Ensure brake pedal is fully released. Adjust plunger to just touch brake pedal lever. Page 1 of 1 5/27/2010 ...

Which Gasket matches yours? and here is the ALDL id.

Hey Merlin long time no talk do you have a picture of where the thermostat is on olds needs replacing radiator fluid problem.

It sounds like t transmission converter not unlocking . This was co men on this car . Try unplugging the lock up connector on the side of the transmission and see if the problem is resolved. Resolved if it is then that's where will start our testing